User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 2/15/2008 1:32:17 PM EDT
[#1]
www.jardinescustom.com/accessories.html Lithium is just the thickener, it really doesn't have anything to do with the lubrication values of the grease. And the red or whatever color is just dye for most greases. Just get some Weapon Shield and not worry about it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2008 12:52:12 PM EDT
[#2]
I use CLP and Militec-1.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2008 6:12:37 PM EDT
[#3]
I would not recommend lithium, etc heavy automotive grease products for an AR. TW25 or SuperLube would be much better choices. I have no experience with Weapon Shield. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/17/2008 9:53:10 AM EDT
[#4]
CLP
I know there are other great gun oils around (I like the Remington stuff a lot), but for an all-around gun oil (emphasis on lubrication), especially for AR's, I like CLP. If the emphasis was on 100% seriously intense protection (ie: if I were to grease, wrap, & bury the damned thing for ten years), in order of preference, my choices would be Rig, Mercury (marine-grade) high temperature wheel bearing grease, Cosmoline, then Vaseline (don't laugh - Vaseline is only purer, lower weight Cosmoline that doesn't harden as fast). |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/17/2008 9:59:21 AM EDT
[#5]
Military has approved TW25B for use and it is currently being used in the sandbox. Many people are finding it to be better than breakfree. I went from Rem oil to breakfree and could feel the difference. Then I went from breakfree to TW25B and again I could feel the difference. Smoother, less friction, etc.
Try it and see. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/17/2008 10:19:02 AM EDT
[#6]
Superlube is a fumed silica thickened synthetic grease with teflon. It is an NLGI grade 2 GC-LB grease, meaning it IS an automotive grease for chassis and bearings. I have not had good results with it, I had chosen it initially because the base oil is pao like BF CLP. Not impressed. The best grease that I have found for lubricating sliding areas on my firearms is Lubriplate 630 AA. It is lithium thickened, and the folks at Fiske told me it had a more modern add pack than the old rifle grease, the calcium thickened 130 AA. Next time I might try the 130 AA just because... These greases are cheap and they are an NLGI grade 1 grease, nice and soft. They also come in softer grades like 0 (just look for the AAA designation,) and are reasonably priced. The 630 AA and the Aero were about 6 bucks for a 14 oz. tin. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/21/2008 10:33:02 AM EDT
[#7]
I make my own LSA/CLP lube using 5w/30 WallyWorld 100% synthetic oil, with about .25 oz of Prestone Silicone lube. Keep it in a BreakFree 4 oz bottle with a small nut to mix the ingredients when I shake the bottle. Has the nice tiny tube appicator. Works very well, but I am at lattitude 60N.
Make my own Kroil/Hoppes blend. 6oz #1 heating oil (kerosene), 1oz Hoppes #9 for that great/timeless smell that says "guns", and another oz of WallyWorld liquid carburetor cleaner. The benchrest guys love Kroil for their barrels. I am not into chrome lined, have stainless service rifle barrels mainly. Kroil/Kero is good for stainless the bench-guru-barrelmakers say, so I clean with it, leave a film in the barrel when stored, store muzzle down etc. If I was going to use any kind of grease, it would be Mobil 1 synthetic 75/90w. Nothing better than 100% synthetic lubricants, unless maybe you're lubing a Rolex watch's innards. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/21/2008 11:24:46 AM EDT
[#8]
What the heck?? And why are you contaminating your motor oil with silicone? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/22/2008 1:26:42 AM EDT
[#9]
I'm not too fussy about lubing but I followed Pat Rogers advice and bought some Slip2000 and it is good stuff IMHO. I like CLP though. Got a sample of Weapons Shield and it is good stuff also.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/22/2008 2:40:54 AM EDT
[#10]
I use 10/30 Mobil 1, because it's cheap and it works.
CLP works too, but IMO it burns off too fast and isn't a particularly effective cleaner. I'd rather just hose the working parts off with brake cleaner, use a dedicated bore solvent in the bore, and lube with Mobil 1. I don't have any need for its "preservative" ability as I live in a very dry area. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/22/2008 5:24:38 AM EDT
[#11]
some guys are talking about using different lubes on different parts of the weapon. why is this?
im referring to was a heavier lube used on the bolt assembly vs the rest of the gun, i thought i read that in another post.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/24/2008 7:30:54 AM EDT
[#12]
I use Ballistol as my general lube. Very good stuff, been using it for years on other competition guns, I figure it will work well in ARs too.
For heavier stuff, I have some "stuff" that a fella who used to work for Perazzi (sp) shotguns gave me. It is a light grease type stuff that is used on high end shotguns. Really slippery and doesn't seem to cook off. A very little goes a long way. Hank |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/24/2008 7:58:41 AM EDT
[#13]
I’m one of those two-lube guys, you may have heard it from me. I use BF LP on my bolt and carrier. BF LP is heavier than BF CLP. BF CLP I reserve for cleaning and light lubing on the rest of the rifle. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/24/2008 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#14]
SLIP2000 Extreme Weapons Lubricant 1 Oz. Field Pack Size with Flip Top Code: 60317 Weight: 1.00 Price: $6.95 Quantity in Basket: none I'm getting some when my CLP runs out. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/5/2008 11:27:16 AM EDT
[#15]
COMBAT PROVEN = CLP its been used alot and has a PROVEN track record
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/5/2008 1:41:38 PM EDT
[#16]
CLP FTW |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2008 1:55:46 PM EDT
[#17]
I use good 'ol CLP for most stuff.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2008 6:19:33 AM EDT
[#18]
What is Breakfree? I have two different brands of CLP Slip2000 and Mpro 7. Those are both "CLP" correct? It says cleans lubricates protects. Is Breakfree a better kind?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/12/2008 6:38:15 AM EDT
[#19]
http://www.break-free.com/
breakfree clp is widely used by the military and civilians. check out their site and see what you think. if you check out the poll on the first page of this thread the majority of members use CLP. there has been a little bit of debate on different products earlier. i would recommend you reading through the threads and make your own decision! good luck |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2008 4:55:17 AM EDT
[#20]
Its just what I used most of the TIME I did have some OTIS CLP ( it seems to be close to the same) I use Rem Oil on my L-UDT & D/A SOCOM  I buy what works for me |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2008 2:51:33 PM EDT
[#21]
I like BF CLP for the "Black Rifles"..
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2008 2:57:11 PM EDT
[#22]
Other
I like using Mobil 1 full synthetic with Marvels mystery oil  .No real clue if it's "the best" but it works for me . Rocklock |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2008 3:44:31 PM EDT
[#23]
My Garand gets grease on the locking lugs, op rod, hammer, etc (not the trigger or sear though). That was the de-facto lube method for a very long time. I would think that greasing the cam pin, bolt (where the gas rings are, NOT the lugs), and the groove in the bolt carrier where the cam pin actually turns the bolt would be good candidates for a LIGHT film of grease. I don't think you'd need any grease on the lugs themselves as they're not exposed to the elements like the Garand. Since the cam pin on the bolt carrier is doing all the rotational work that's where you'd need the most lube. If you run your AR "wet", most of the carbon would stick to the oil before the grease becomes too "contaminated." Just my thoughts on the subject.... Mike Doerner |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2008 6:56:50 PM EDT
[#24]
Well put. 
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 8:01:05 AM EDT
[#25]
I was using Beakfree CLP but have been rather un-impressed with it. It is neither a good cleaner or lubricant. I am also fed up with gun lubricants altogether. Specially formulated this, and micro blended that. It's a lubricant. It shouldnt cost $14 for 1oz!!
I have switched to Amsoil MP spray. They have 2 kinds, the regular and heavy duty. These are actually motorcycle chain lubes(alot more stress involved than moving gun parts) It isnt really oily. More like a wax when it dries. It doesnt come off, doesnt attract dust and provides a slick surface. Best of all, it costs about $6 for a 8 or 16oz can. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 8:18:43 AM EDT
[#26]
Tolerances on AR15s and M16s are much tighter, that is why oils generally work better for them. Grease is good for weapons of older design with looser tolerances, such as L1A1 SLRs, FALs, M1s and M14s. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 8:20:09 AM EDT
[#27]
You may have issues with this in cold weather. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 8:30:03 AM EDT
[#28]
I keep coming back to BreakFree CLP. I recently tried syntheic motor oil but it was too thin (10w30) and basically dripped into the lower/blew away.
Breakfree is good stuff as others have said, however more recently, I found an old bottle of Butch's Gun Oil, and WOW...this stuff rocks. It has a very high viscosity so it stays in place and it does not burn off as fast as Breakfree does. After shooting the action looks like I just applied the lube to it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 8:49:56 AM EDT
[#29]
It sounds like heat from sustained firing might be outside the parameters of that stuff too?? |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 10:08:23 AM EDT
[#30]
Think so? Been working fine. Everyone is free to buy into the super oils if they want. I prefer not to drink the Koolaid.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/15/2008 7:50:41 PM EDT
[#31]
STP Oil Treatment works great
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2008 7:39:11 PM EDT
[#32]
i also thought about the amsoil metal protectant but didnt know how well it would work after shooting several rounds through the rifle. i am an amsoil dealer and i am a firm believer in all of their products.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2008 7:42:51 PM EDT
[#33]
lol never really thought of Break free as a super oil. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2008 12:56:07 PM EDT
[#34]
My only problem with CLP is that it lubricates your hands pretty well too, and takes about 3 washes to get it off! Other than that, it does a great job. It's not the best cleaner in the world but works for light to medium cleaning. Every now and then I'll put some more aggressive solvent down the barrel to get out any copper or carbon. CLP definately lubricates better if you let it sit for a couple hours before wiping off and re-assembling the firearm.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2008 8:06:20 PM EDT
[#35]
we need lub not cleaners and other snake additives -look at specs moisture ,wear and tear,temp what we run our weapons -OK look at temps say ''0'' to 450*+ no coking ,no smoke and protection ! 3 in 1 cleaner,lub and anti-rust ,I have seen some agents get hit by burned powder add some heat and water = o crap weapon jam and parts break ! some clps not break free have crapped out and rust or worst has happened ! a film system that holds under many facts of all the environmental areas and slows wear and tears so it rules out natural oils so synthetic is the way to start ! i use Mobil 1 oil with powdered moly .Teflon is a can of worms it needs very temps to melts in to metal [over 500*] at lower temps with things in the mix -its very bad like acids !
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2008 8:13:59 PM EDT
[#36]
I like the Break Free CLP in the bottle. The canned aerosol shit smells like roach poison.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2008 10:05:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Just sent my Bushmaster in to install a few 'goodies'. I had them test fire the gun and the barrel ended up being defective(not because of any lubrication or cleaning issues). While on the phone with the account rep. he recommended using Tetra products or any of the other cleaners and lubes Bushmaster sells. I have been using Tetra products for years with out any problems. I use the aerosol for cleaning the upper, lower and bolt/carrier. The Tetra grease(lightly spread) over the bolt and carrier and lugs. The Tetra system includes a bore lube I use to lubricate the barrel after cleaning and to wipe down the outside of the rifle. The bore cleaner is also an excellent product but smells horrible. CLP is probably the way to go if you're in a hurry, but I spend more time cleaning my guns than probably most.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 2:50:35 AM EDT
[#38]
I clean my AR after every 100 - 150 rounds. I use a light film of litium grease on the outside of the carrier. It seems to create almost a bearing surface. The rest of the weapn including the barrel is done with BALLISTOL after a bore cleaner thru the bore an a bolt and carrier soak in Hoppes #9. Ballistol is pretty good stuff and I use it on Mil-Surp rifles since it neutralizes corrosive residue from corrosive primers.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 5:45:46 AM EDT
[#39]
I starting wearing latex gloves after I read that some of the ingredients can cause liver cancer/failure with frequent exposure. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 11:20:24 AM EDT
[#40]
I have a huge box of partly used products. I now use whatever works reasonably well and is environmentally friendly (kind to my hands and lungs).
A few products that I did not like were the ones that failed to prevent (in some cases seemed to promote) rusting. These were Remoil, FP-10 and Militec-1 (worst product used) Break Free CLP seems to be a good all rounder (not for serious cleaning though). I use Tetra Grease for heavier dury lube (found that TW-25 turned to cheese like consistency after a year or so of rifle being in storage). I am looking hard at Corrosion-X. It is very good to the lungs and hands (probably the least toxic product on the market) and a lot of people give it good reviews. One person says it will freeze, so perhaps my search will continue. For now it seems that BF CLP and Tetra grease are my baseline products. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 12:30:46 PM EDT
[#41]
Which are you asking for? The answer to this question or the one in your title? CLP, made by either Break Free or Royco are the best proven gun oils out there. They have more useage than anything else. TW-25B is (was? Have others been approved?) authorised lubricant for the Mk19 machine gun (the full auto grenade launcher) in the Army. GMD (grease, molybdenum) is the ony authorised lube for the MK242 25mm bushmaster chain gun used in the M2 series Bradley. The Marines and might allow something else I don't have a clue. Some peopel have had great luck using the TW-25b on other weapons as well. And it's been combat tested this way. BUT two CLP products are the most proven based on the amount used. That's the easy question to answer. The one you asked in the body of your post is a lot more subjective. Everyone has their own opinions of what is the best lubricant. As you can tell by this 6 page thread. I've been using Tetra, but will be switching to WeaponShield when I get a chance to get some. It's less toxic, and I've gotten paranoid about Tetra and polymer/plastic framed guns from something I read here. For the time being I've been using Break Free LP on my Glock, Kel-Tec, and HK until I get some Weapon Shield. For the times I use grease, I use Rig +P. I use the Tetra on my AR, shotgun, everything that doesn't have plastic. And I'm very careful not to get it on my hands. It's some pretty nasty stuff. I use a light coat of Break Free's CLP in the bore to prevent rust. I've had bad experiences with Militec-1 and rust in the bore from condensation. Cold outside to warm inside. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 12:51:02 PM EDT
[#42]
Just some random thoughts:
Rem Oil: Its a very light lube, with teflon. not much of a protectant. FP-10: Great lube but its not a cleaner in spite of what the marketing may claim. Militec: worthless as a protectant. Poor cleaner. barely acceptable as a lube. Breakfree CLP: does everything well and nothing great. Slip 2000: My personal favorite all in one product. lasts longer than Breakfree once applied. I'll use just about anything if i can get it for free. But when I'm spending my money i buy Slip 2000. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2008 4:30:24 PM EDT
[#43]
CLP has the longest track record
one would think that alone would spek for itself Ive used CLP for over 20 years on my Handguns to AR15`s NEVER EVER A PROBLEM So I dont Fix what aint broken |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/4/2008 1:28:19 PM EDT
[#44]
BF CLP is all I use
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/5/2008 4:17:55 PM EDT
[#45]
CLP but that might be because thats what they gave us never ventured to try anything else.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/5/2008 4:45:05 PM EDT
[#46]
if it aint broke dont fix it. ive been using breakfree clp (aerosol can) since this thread started and i have no complaints. i did find the liquid clp the other day and im going to lube all the guns up with that after i use them next. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/5/2008 6:04:05 PM EDT
[#47]
weapon shield, I haven't used it on my ar15 cause its not done yet but it works great on my S&W M&P9 I like how it has a higher viscosity than clp seems to stay put instead of running all over.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2008 5:28:31 PM EDT
[#48]
:: subscribe ::
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2008 5:44:54 PM EDT
[#49]
Best lube...?
Where's the "Blood of mine enemies" option..? |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/1/2008 2:31:42 AM EDT
[#50]
Commenting on the "combat proven" aspect of the o.p.'s subject, that would seem to predetermine the whole discussion toward only those lubes that are used in the service.
But I think that some of the newer synthetics (that use PAO's and similar man-made compounds), which have already been mentioned in this thread, offer some superior properties. The best of the recent "wonder-lubes" IMHO, that I use or have tried (these are all good and roughly equal overall if you look at strengths, weaknesses, and cost-benefit comparison): * CorrosionX * Mpro-7 CLP * Weapon Shield * Gunzilla One other item, not in the modern "wonder-lube" category, but still an outstanding competitor as an all-purpose lube and CLP product: * Ballistol. The amazing thing about this stuff is, it's essentially a combination of mineral oils that the Germans developed over a century ago for military gun care, but it's being MORE widely used today, both for gun care and other purposes, than ever. The stuff is completely, 100% safe for your skin, biodegradable, non-cancer causing, etc. It'll clean AND protect AND LUBE every inch of every part of ALL your guns: wood/plastic/synth stocks, rubber, metal, you name it. You can buy it by the gallon and just dip entire assemblies of parts (like your BCG) in it, for both cleaning and lube. Like all CLPs it tends to be weakest in the cleaning category, but that said, it cleans better than most other CLPs I have ever tried including Breakfree. Leave it in a bore overnight, it'll even remove copper build-ups! And in addtion to all these advantages, it is the least expensive of all the modern lubes I have seen, esp. if you buy in bulk. My point is not, drop everything and go out and use Ballistol. But even though it's not one of the modern lubes, I still think it is VERY worth considering along with some of the above choices. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
