What are the best brake options and where should I look to buy them from?  I kind of like the look of the AK-74 brake (Not sure how it compares to some of the other options) and have seen them available for 762x39, but there seem to be a number of options and many different manufacturers out there and I am a little confused.

What is your goal with the rifle? This influences which device you should be using

I've had great luck with the J-TAC 47 from Primary Weapons.  The standard version runs about $60.

www.primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=6

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Quoted: What is your goal with the rifle? This influences which device you should be using

I am not sure what you mean.  I would like something that will reduce recoil (not that it is so bad) and keep the muzzle down like the slant brake does.

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Quoted: I've had great luck with the J-TAC 47 from Primary Weapons.  The standard version runs about $60. www.primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=6

Looks pretty effective.  Any idea how it compares to the 74 style brake?

The standard AK74 brake works with 7.62 and is threaded 24x1.5mm. There are adapters that convert from 14mmL to 21mm.

The AK74 brake seems to be better at reducing muzzle rise than killing recoil on my rifle. It's a pretty complex design that the Sovs spent a few $ developing back in the day. That said, like any brake, it increases blast and flash. I actually runa flash hider as my prefered muzzle device most of the time. I have not noticed any change in POI when changing between the brake and flash hider.

Plus, the AK74 brake looks just good on an AK100 pattern rifle.

Naf, turn on your IM and/or email, please. BSW

ive heard a2 style flashhiders were effective, cheap and relatively small.  any idea where snag one for an ak? or do i need to conver the threads?

What do you want the muzzle device to do?  "Brake", flash hider', what????

I've got a slant break on one AK and a Vortex flashhider on the other.  Honestly, the 7.62x39 doesn't have enough recoil to warrant (IMHO) a brake.  But, I'm not too terribly recoil sensitive either, so YMMV.

If I didn't want to keep the UF pretty much stock to maintain at least one "purist" AK, I'd probably change it over to the Vortex.  

If you're concerned primarily with looks, then, again IMHO, the 74 type muzzle brake is the best looking.  If for an actual brake purpose, then you'll need to get other opinions as my only experiences are with the slant brake and the Vortex.  If you're interested in flash reduction from what I've been able to determine the Vortex is you best purchase, hands down.  

Again... what is it you're looking to accomplish with it?

With the AK-74 type brake, you have three choices:
An original European military brake threaded for 24mm Right-hand threads as used on the later AK-74 rifles.

An American made EXACT copy of the European military brake.

An American made "replica".  
These replicas ARE NOT exact copies, and do not work anywhere near as good as the military brake.
These brakes are typically threaded for the 14.1mm LEFT-hand thread as used on the AK-47 rifles.
These brakes don't have the larger internal expansion chamber, the type of hole and spacing used on the military, and have 4 holes in the front instead of the slitted bushing or laser-cut "zig-zag" slits of the military brakes.

Just what you can use depends on your rifle, and on how much effort and expense you're willing to go.

If you have an AK-47 type rifle with a smooth barrel, depending on the size of the muzzle, you can thread it for the standard 14.1mm Left-hand threads, or if the muzzle is too small, you can thread for 1/2-28 Right-hand threads as used on the AR-15.
If you can thread to 14.1mm Left-hand threads, you can then either screw on an American replica of the AK-74 brake, OR you can screw on an adapter that adapts to the 24mm Right-hand threads, in which case you can screw on an original military AK-74 brake or an American exact copy.

If you're willing to go to some expense and effort, you can replace your front sight base with an original AK-74 FSB that's threaded for the 24mm Right-hand threads of the AK-74 and screw on an AK-74 brake.

Here's some AK-74 brakes:
First, the best American made "Replica".  Again this is NOT as effective as the real thing.
The Brownell's version is the best made, best quality:
www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5735&title=AK+MUZZLE+BRAKE

Next is an American made EXACT copy of the military brake.
They offer two exact copies AND the 14.1 to 24mm adapter:
www.ak-103.com/parts.html

Most everybody is currently out of original European military brakes, but K-Var sells them when they have them in stock.

Your first step is to identify just what you have in the way of size of the muzzle and whether it's already threaded.  Some rifles have welded-on muzzle nuts with either a smooth un-threaded or threaded barrel under it.

Once you know what you've got, you can decide what you want to do, and how much effort an money you're willing to spend.

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Quoted: Naf, turn on your IM and/or email, please.

Fixed, sorry about that.

So, basically all those AK-74 "style" brakes aren't going really do anything for me since I have an AKM clone in 762x39 with 14mm threads? Or at least nothing unless I am willing to shell out $70+.

Quoted: The standard AK74 brake works with 7.62 and is threaded 21x1.5mm. There are adapters that convert from 14mmL to 21mm. The AK74 brake seems to be better at reducing muzzle rise than killing recoil on my rifle. It's a pretty complex design that the Sovs spent a few $ developing back in the day. That said, like any brake, it increases blast and flash. I actually runa flash hider as my prefered muzzle device most of the time. I have not noticed any change in POI when changing between the brake and flash hider. Plus, the AK74 brake looks just good on an AK100 pattern rifle. Naf, turn on your IM and/or email, please. BSW i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/briansmithwins/right-4.jpg

Nice lookin rifle.  However...ya sure you don't mean 22mm (Romy) or 24mm (Bulgy)?

You are correct sir, it should be 24mm. BSW

Quoted: I would like something that will reduce recoil (not that it is so bad) and keep the muzzle down like the slant brake does.

I think you answered your own question.

+1 on the Jtac from PrimaryWeapons. I have one and it does reduce muzzle climb slightly and also reduces recoil slightly. Notice I said(typed actually) slightly. It does work but dont expect a world of difference, though it is a noticable difference. If you are going to the range and going through mags like no tomorrow, at the end of the day you will feel the difference in your shoulder from one brake to the next.

So, basically all those AK-74 "style" brakes aren't going really do anything for me since I have an AKM clone in 762x39 with 14mm threads? Or at least nothing unless I am willing to shell out $70+.

The American made AK-74 look-alikes WILL have an effect, just not as much as the military original with the bigger expansion chamber.
You can increase the effect by drilling another hole in the American replica at the 3:00 o'clock position, in line with the two on the top.
This hole will prevent the rifle from moving to the right while the two on top prevent muzzle rise.

Okay, I get it now.  

So is the AK-74 style brake more effective than the slant?  Because I have a slant, but I was looking for something a little more effective and the 74 style looks pretty cool (not that it so important).

Having shot both I would say the AK74 pattern is more effective than the slant brake, mostly for muzzle rise. The Russians are willing to put up with the noise and flash disadvantages of the AK74 brake to get more rounds on target, usually on FA. BSW

The AK-47 slant "brake" is not a brake at all, it's actually a diverter to reduce muzzle climb.

The AK-74 is both a diverter and a recoil reducer.
It works like this:
Gas enters the enlarged chamber in the rear of the brake and is vented through the holes.
The genuine military AK-74 brake has three holes, one at 11:00 o'clock, one at 1:00 and one at 3:00.
The venting gas jets tend to push the muzzle downward reducing muzzle climb, and the hole at 3:00 pushes it to the left, reducing the tendency for a rifle to move upward and to the right.

The American "replica" has TWO holes, in a line at 12:00 o'clock.
These reduce climb to a lesser extent, since the replica doesn't have as large an expansion chamber.
You can help reduce muzzle movement to the right, by drilling another hole at 3:00 o'clock.

The gas is vented from the expansion chamber into the forward section in two jets through either laser cut "zig-zag" cuts in the front of the expansion chamber, or through two curved "slits" formed by a pressed-in bushing in later production AK-74 brakes.
These two jets impact against the forward flange of the front section and tend to push the muzzle forward, reducing recoil.

The American replicas have 4 holes, two to a side that vent the gas forward and outward through the holes.
These also tend to push the muzzle forward.

The remaining gas is then vented upward and outward by the lugs that connect the rear of the brake to the forward flange.
The earlier "zig-zag" cut brake does this better due to the much wider lower connecting lug and the narrower upper lug tending to force the gas upward.
This upward venting tends to further reduce muzzle climb.

The later AK-74 brake and the American replicas have lugs nearly the same width and this slightly lessens the amount of gas vented upward, and tend to vent in a more horizontal direction.

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Quoted: The AK-47 slant "brake" is not a brake at all, it's actually a diverter to reduce muzzle climb. The AK-74 is both a diverter and a recoil reducer. It works like this: Gas enters the enlarged chamber in the rear of the brake and is vented through the holes. The genuine military AK-74 brake has three holes, one at 11:00 o'clock, one at 1:00 and one at 3:00. The venting gas jets tend to push the muzzle downward reducing muzzle climb, and the hole at 3:00 pushes it to the left, reducing the tendency for a rifle to move upward and to the right. The American "replica" has TWO holes, in a line at 12:00 o'clock. These reduce climb to a lesser extent, since the replica doesn't have as large an expansion chamber. You can help reduce muzzle movement to the right, by drilling another hole at 3:00 o'clock. The gas is vented from the expansion chamber into the forward section in two jets through either laser cut "zig-zag" cuts in the front of the expansion chamber, or through two curved "slits" formed by a pressed-in bushing in later production AK-74 brakes. These two jets impact against the forward flange of the front section and tend to push the muzzle forward, reducing recoil. The American replicas have 4 holes, two to a side that vent the gas forward and outward through the holes. These also tend to push the muzzle forward. The remaining gas is then vented upward and outward by the lugs that connect the rear of the brake to the forward flange. The earlier "zig-zag" cut brake does this better due to the much wider lower connecting lug and the narrower upper lug tending to force the gas upward. This upward venting tends to further reduce muzzle climb. The later AK-74 brake and the American replicas have lugs nearly the same width and this slightly lessens the amount of gas vented upward, and tend to vent in a more horizontal direction.

When you reference "American replicas", you are describing the cheapo $9.95 to $19.95 US made brakes available from Copes and elsewhere.  If you buy a good copy from www.ak-103.com/parts.html or www.globaltrades.com  they do have the large expansion chamber and the staggered vent holes around the circumference.  A 14x1 to 24mm adaptor is needed to use these on AKMs, but they do work very well.

I hate those cheap "American replica" brakes you're talking about, as they give folks the wrong idea of what an AK74 brake is capable of.  Those cheap US ak74 style brakes only do one thing well --act as a 922r part.