It looks like this subject has been beat to death already but I am still clueless. I want to put a slant brake on my 2003 SAR-1. Do I put a threaded FSB on it or do I thread the barrel? Thats where I am still confused after reading the related threads on here and looking at all of the accesory websites. Someone please tell me the best way to do this and the best place to get the stuff to do it(parts and tools). I have decent mechanical abilities so I think I could thread it myself.

i just threaded my barrel today. it took me a whole 10 minutes to do!!!

You can rent  ($16) or buy ($50 something) a threading kit (14X1mm LH). Get a threaded brake or flash hidder, pretty simple... Some guys have posted that they use lock-tight to keep it on. I haven't tried yet since I am still waiting for kit. I like the idea of threading the muzzle so I can always take off what I have if I find something I want to replace the brake or flash hidder with.

Rent by sending an email to [email protected]. His reply will tell you how to get on the waiting list for the kit... It is about a 5 week wait for now.

Or just to name a few... buy one from:

www.dynasystems-ltd.com/GunFile/Products.html
Dynasystems told me they had a five week back order on the dies

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5735&title=AK+MUZZLE+BRAKE
Website says out of stock on die.


If you find a faster or cheaper way to get the die please let me know.

so is there some trick to getting the brake indexed to the correct position or does one thread a bit and see where the brake clocks and try it again or what?

Some say they just eye ball it... Most kits come with die and a threading alignment tool that helps you guide the die on straight.

Dynasystems has a good pic of one if you want to know what they look like.


Now, I've never done this since I am still waiting for threading kit... But I have been told you can do it both ways... You just have to be careful.

Quoted: so is there some trick to getting the brake indexed to the correct position or does one thread a bit and see where the brake clocks and try it again or what?

On the front side of the front sight base, just above the barrel, is a hole. Or there should be a hole.

This hole is for a spring and detent held in by the front cross pin.

The slant brake will have a notch cut in it at the 12:00 position. Thread the brake on as far as you can then adjust until the detent engages the notch. That's it. You're done.

the kit that wjm rents...comes with all the instructions needed.
i threaded 3 rifles in 30 minutes

Quoted: Quoted: so is there some trick to getting the brake indexed to the correct position or does one thread a bit and see where the brake clocks and try it again or what? On the front side of the front sight base, just above the barrel, is a hole. Or there should be a hole. This hole is for a spring and detent held in by the front cross pin. The slant brake will have a notch cut in it at the 12:00 position. Thread the brake on as far as you can then adjust until the detent engages the notch. That's it. You're done.

Perfect!  That's the answer i was looking for.  So i guess as for parts what i need is:

The Compensator Lock Pin
The Catch spring
and of course The Compensator (Brake)  shich i'm assuming is the correct ID for my barrel (14mm) is that right?

I already have the die (M14x1) and guide and just finished doing a FAL so i guess i know what i'm doing

OK thanks for the great info guys. I have an idea. Whoever has actually done this or is going to do this and is confident that they did a good job should post instructions, pics (before during and after), parts and tools list and where you got the stuff. Preferably for the slant brake. I think alot of people are going to want to do this. So a tacked post would help alot of people and save repeating related threads.

so i just finished threading my WASR-10.   Here's a few things i learned.

I'm not impressed with the TAT, the one for my FAL would not fit the bore and this one forced me to remove it after cutting a couple of threads cause it seemed to be acting as a jam nut restricting my cutting (NOTE I DID NOT READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST so its possible if i had then i might have changed my mind)

I held my rifle vertical in a padded vise, if you have someone holding the rifle to prevent it from turning that would be handy..you can't get the vise tight enough to prevent it from turning once the cutting oil gets down there.  I used brownells cutting oil (DO THREAD?) and a greenfield die holder (catalog# 88436944 from msc industrial supply) which you will need if you don't buy the kit from Dana.

I stuck a cleaning patch just past the muzzle to keep most of the crap out of the bore.

I stopped and reversed direction about every 90 degrees to break any chips free.

The die i got from brownells has a chamfered side and a non chamfered side, you're supposed to start things on the chamfered side to make it easier to start and then when you've run it all the way against the FSB back it off, flip it over in the die holder and run it back to cut the last couple of threads up to the FSB.  When you do i found it easier to leave the die out of the holder and start it by hand then put the handle back on to prevent cross threading.

Has anyone tried the "Threaded Muzzle Brake Adaptor"?  Looks like it uses 4 set screws instead of threading the barrel.  Do these work?

Trick to using the die guide is cut a notch in the end of it like a screw slot.  Have your buddy hold a screw driver in the slot so guide does not turn.  You want the guide about 1/6" above the end of the barrel so guide never contacts muzzle and acts like a jamb screw.

Do not install detent pin and spring until AFTER threading the barrel, it gets in the way.

Yeah MM that screwdriver trick would work as well as what Dyna tells you to do on their webpage which is to leave some of the threads from the TAT poking out the "outside" side of the die and threading the brake on to act as a jamnut.. but then again i didn't read the instructions.