Directions for mounting a rail on the bottom of your stock vepr forend lower, no drilling and cheap! - Page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Directions for mounting a rail on the bottom of your stock vepr forend lower, no drilling and cheap!

Posted: 9/18/2005 12:16:07 PM EDT

I found that the two holes on the lower line up perfectly with the mounting holes on a weaver mount, so i picked up a couple of 4 prong t-nuts and put them on the inside of the holes- now i have a no drill pistol grip mount for the cost of a rail and $1.33 in screws from ace. If anyone is interested i can post pics and instructions.

Posted: 9/18/2005 1:10:02 PM EDT

[#1]

Lets see what ya got!

Posted: 9/18/2005 2:17:44 PM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
Lets see what ya got!

+1

Posted: 9/18/2005 2:39:25 PM EDT

[#3]

I would like to see that

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:15:54 PM EDT

[#4]

Okay here we go:

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:26:18 PM EDT

[#5]

Any pics of it installed?

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:29:06 PM EDT

[#6]

more pics to come, when my cable modem stops flipping out on me. for now, those screws are 20mm and 25mm, both m4x .7p and 5mm. Make sure the 4 prong t nuts are metric the right size, of course. Ace has it all labelled. I got the weaver rail at wally world, i believe the hole positioning is pretty much standard. Again the holes line up exactly, just take your lower and eyeball it. figure out where your grip is going to go ahead of time before you do the mount, the first time i did it i put it too far back and i couldn't get a mag rocked in. When I screwed into the mounts i took it easy because those prongs will probably collapse unless you figure out a way to make slots in the lower for the prongs to stick into. don't worry, there is plenty of clearance to the bottom of the barrel so you're not going to get direct contact heating. A little blue thread lock should keep em from backing out.

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:31:36 PM EDT

[#7]

here we are all done, this one first in case uploading pukes again.

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:38:35 PM EDT

[#8]

ugh sorry about the quality. here's a headache-inducing closeup of the t nuts and screws:

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:40:58 PM EDT

[#9]

And the t-nuts sitting on there with the rail and screws ready to go:

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:44:14 PM EDT

[#10]

UltiMAK's ACR2 fits the VEPR platform as well. Full Disclosure: Lyle and I talk all the time.

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:45:03 PM EDT

[#11]

the t-nuts snugged down. it bothers me that they stick up but i don't think it has much difference functionally, you can't make the weaver rail budge like this. maybe mark them and then pound an awl in there to make the grooves. or some dremel action.

Posted: 9/18/2005 6:47:07 PM EDT

[#12]

checking the clearance- should do this before screwing it all down.

Posted: 9/18/2005 7:03:40 PM EDT

[#13]

Looks good!

Posted: 9/19/2005 4:06:36 AM EDT

[#14]

Great job mrmoshzilla, thanks for taking time to share with the rest of us. How sturdy is it? Also, where did you get the rail?

Posted: 9/19/2005 6:16:35 AM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
Great job mrmoshzilla, thanks for taking time to share with the rest of us. How sturdy is it? Also, where did you get the rail?

thanks it was my pleasure, i learn so much from reading stuff on here i want to contribute when i can. It's quite sturdy, my pistol grip slops around torquing on it instead of the rail itself. and the rail was from walmart, just a one piece weaver.

I haven't tested it yet but i think that this setup might have problems with a flashlight or laser because the rail follows the angle of the lower, which is not perfectly perpandicular to the barrel. if anyone can find a mount that allows adjustment for elevation that would fix the problem.

Posted: 9/19/2005 10:45:01 AM EDT

[#16]

Yep. I did the same thing. You sir are a genius!

Posted: 9/20/2005 4:55:11 AM EDT

[#17]

Please post a link to the screws on ACE's website. I looked but could not find it. Thanks

Posted: 9/20/2005 11:59:11 AM EDT

[#18]

I think he meant Ace Hardware.

Posted: 9/20/2005 12:36:28 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Great job mrmoshzilla, thanks for taking time to share with the rest of us. How sturdy is it? Also, where did you get the rail?

thanks it was my pleasure, i learn so much from reading stuff on here i want to contribute when i can. It's quite sturdy, my pistol grip slops around torquing on it instead of the rail itself. and the rail was from walmart, just a one piece weaver.

I haven't tested it yet but i think that this setup might have problems with a flashlight or laser because the rail follows the angle of the lower, which is not perfectly perpandicular to the barrel. if anyone can find a mount that allows adjustment for elevation that would fix the problem.

Look into a small plastic washer from HOME DEPOT, put it between the rail and the handguard. May not be exact but you can use sand papaer to take some thickness off of it.

Posted: 9/21/2005 2:35:33 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:
I think he meant Ace Hardware.

Oh, good, cause I was wondering how the other ACE would happen to have a set of screws and T nuts that just so happens to fit perfectly with the Walmart Weaver rail. Off to hardware store and Walmart for me then. Thanks.

Posted: 9/21/2005 6:02:11 AM EDT

[#21]

is using a T-nut really that critical? Would regular nuts, like maybe some kind of lock-nut or lock-washer work? I guess I need to go hit up wally world now. How much are the weaver rails anyway, and are there different lengths to choose from?

Posted: 9/21/2005 6:36:33 AM EDT

[#22]

ayep Ace hardware. let me know how that works for you.

I think the T-nut is necessary, regular or jam nuts are going to spin on you. plus the t-nut engages the screw for a lot more length because it meets it down in the hole. You could probably make a hex-shaped hole in the lower's plastic with a dremel to the exact size of a nut, but i think that's a needless amount of work when you can buy a t-nut for 33 cents. There are one and two piece weaver rails AFAIK, seem to be standard size. You could substitute a picatinny rail if the holes line up too, but the weaver is a sure thing.

Posted: 9/21/2005 6:53:43 AM EDT

[#23]

cool. one more thing......is there any significance to the metric nature of the screws and the t-nuts? That is to say, why is metric hardware being used as opposed to standard?

Do I have to watch out for screw length, or do the screws that you described a couple posts ago only come in one length?

Posted: 9/21/2005 4:01:54 PM EDT

[#24]

this is the only thing my walmart had........good or bad?

HERE (1600x1200 pict, so beware)

leupold base for Marlin 336 rifle.

Posted: 9/21/2005 4:59:18 PM EDT

[#25]

i think that base is just the one dude, make sure the holes line up on that lower.

there's nothin magic about the screws or the t-nuts, they just seemed to fit the best and metric was the only thing they were offered in. One of them is 20mm and one is 25mm, the longer one goes closest to the reciever because the lower is thicker there. Just bring the lower and the base and fit the stuff right there to be sure.

Posted: 9/22/2005 4:37:35 AM EDT

[#26]

I went to ACE and they had the bolts but not the metric T nuts. Can you please clarify when you stated earlier " both m4x .7p and 5mm" is 5mm the height?

Posted: 9/22/2005 5:40:41 AM EDT

[#27]

nope, the lengths are 20mm and 25mm. m4 .7p is the thread size and pitch. 5mm is the diameter of the outside of the screw and the inside of the t-nut. just try and find any t-nut and make sure it can fit its neck down into the hole from the inside of the handguard, make it as big as possible while still clearing the hole. then find the screws to fit them either in the appropriate length or get some that are too long and cut them down until they don't stick up above the t-nuts. If you can't find a t-nut this isn't going to work without a heck of a lot more effort.

when you search google for t-nut, half of the hits are for a snoop doggy dogg song. which reminds me make sure you don't get caught in the drizzle with your vepr after this because these holes are for draining the forend grip. my nizzle.

Posted: 9/22/2005 10:34:32 AM EDT

[#28]

fo' shizzle, dis mod da shiznit

Posted: 9/23/2005 4:17:40 AM EDT

[#29]

I found the T nuts at another ACE so that is taken care of. I have one more question and thank you for your patience. I have been to several Walmart's and can't find one that has the weaver rail. You wouldn't happen to still have the packaging so you could tell me the manufacturer and model number, would you?

Posted: 9/23/2005 5:53:41 AM EDT

[#30]

I don't have the packaging for it anymore, i remember thinking it was pretty generic. the only choices were 2 piece or 1. take your lower along or measure exactly the distance between the holes and go look at the hole distance for the 1 piece rail. The one Atlak posted looked fine to me, look for leopold.

Posted: 11/2/2005 8:27:53 AM EDT

[#31]

BTT

Posted: 1/7/2006 4:57:37 PM EDT

[#32]

Bump!

Posted: 1/7/2006 5:56:19 PM EDT

[#33]

ho, ha ha. guard, turn, parry! thrust, spin!

Posted: 1/7/2006 7:27:01 PM EDT

[#34]

bump to tack

Posted: 5/4/2006 3:49:58 AM EDT

[#35]

.

Posted: 7/20/2006 10:48:25 AM EDT

[#36]

Any one have any pictures of this conversion?

John

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Directions for mounting a rail on the bottom of your stock vepr forend lower, no drilling and cheap!

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