User Panel
Originally Posted By shwa: Going to snag some. Emailed Rugged asking if CLR was safe for the oculus baffles and they said no. I have some stubborn deposits that ultrasonic hasn’t been able to remove. This looks promising, View Quote Wonder why Rugged would say CLR is not good on the Oculus baffles? They’re Stainless Steel and CLR should be fine, I would think. |
|
|
|
Originally Posted By bballman25: Wonder why Rugged would say CLR is not good on the Oculus baffles? They're Stainless Steel and CLR should be fine, I would think. View Quote |
|
|
|
Originally Posted By bballman25: Wonder why Rugged would say CLR is not good on the Oculus baffles? They’re Stainless Steel and CLR should be fine, I would think. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bballman25: Originally Posted By shwa: Going to snag some. Emailed Rugged asking if CLR was safe for the oculus baffles and they said no. I have some stubborn deposits that ultrasonic hasn’t been able to remove. This looks promising, Wonder why Rugged would say CLR is not good on the Oculus baffles? They’re Stainless Steel and CLR should be fine, I would think. CLR is acid. It isn't safe on stainless either. Most stainless barrel manufacturers disclaim the use of CLR. |
|
|
|
I sprayed my hydra al baffles. I'll check them tomorrow after work. They are aluminum and pretty caked up.
|
|
"Life is Hard, its Harder if You're Stupid" - John Wayne
|
Ordered the 32 oz bottle off of Amazon and a bigger ultrasonic cleaner. What the hell, might as well cover all the bases. Besides, it was marked down 30 bucks.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By bballman25: First time I've heard that. I've always heard CLR is good on SS. I've used on my SS baffles numerous times and don't notice any degridation View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bballman25: Originally Posted By ian187: CLR is acid. It isn't safe on stainless either. Most stainless barrel manufacturers disclaim the use of CLR. First time I've heard that. I've always heard CLR is good on SS. I've used on my SS baffles numerous times and don't notice any degridation it will eat the plating off a spring and pit the base metal. The spring from a sico pistol booster cleaned up perfect with CLR. The spring from a sico tri lug adapter, fail |
|
|
You bastards costing me money. Will have to look for this at Scheels next time.
|
|
The plane flew, admit you're wrong and get over it.
|
Originally Posted By bballman25: First time I’ve heard that. I’ve always heard CLR is good on SS. I’ve used on my SS baffles numerous times and don’t notice any degridation… View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bballman25: Originally Posted By ian187: CLR is acid. It isn't safe on stainless either. Most stainless barrel manufacturers disclaim the use of CLR. First time I’ve heard that. I’ve always heard CLR is good on SS. I’ve used on my SS baffles numerous times and don’t notice any degridation… CLR etches stainless. I don't want to ruin the surprise but if you use your favorite search engine you may find this topic has been discussed before. https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover We do not recommend putting CLR Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover in a spray bottle. CLR Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover is acidic in nature and the solution could "spray back" on your clothes or in your eyes or can get on materials it's not intended to be used on. Don't Use CLR - Don't Void Your Warranty! |
|
|
Originally Posted By ian187: CLR etches stainless. I don't want to ruin the surprise but if you use your favorite search engine you may find this topic has been discussed before. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ian187: CLR etches stainless. I don't want to ruin the surprise but if you use your favorite search engine you may find this topic has been discussed before. https://clrbrands.com/CLR/media/PDF/CLR-CalciumLimeRust-SDS-1-16-19.pdf Restrictions on Use Incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, metals (except stainless steel, chrome), acids, bases, and bleach... Main chemical is up to 18% Lactic Acid. https://www.bayportvalve.com/pdffiles/Chemical%20Resistance%20Guide.pdf Attached File https://hoseflex.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Chemical-Compatibility-Table.pdf Attached File A = Excellent B= Good. Minor Effect, slight corrosion or discoloration I have had no issues using it on SS baffles. |
|
|
Do we know if this is any different/better than CLR?
I’ve used CLR on sealed cans with really good results. Stuff eats carbon. |
|
|
I may be wrong, but I think at least two different companies make CLR with somewhat different formulas. I wanna say this came up with Energetic Arm’s advice on cleaning, where they recommend a CLR from a specific manufacturer for their titanium cans.
@Kedminster Am I remembering incorrectly? |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. Or maybe the solution just got all used up… it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8” of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish. I’m going to put the 4 “bad” baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I’m skeptical they’ll look get much better. https://i.imgur.com/0u49sDL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pw0Or72.jpg 2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there’s still some caking on the face scallops. I’m pleased with these. https://i.imgur.com/YT3H5TD.jpg 4 baffles are a little better overall but there’s still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well. Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle. It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though. Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up. https://i.imgur.com/hSmfgNV.jpg View Quote Looking forward to the 30hr report. Could you use something non abrasive like a chop stick to see if the lead deposits come off easily? Thanks |
|
|
Originally Posted By zpduff: Looking forward to the 30hr report. Could you use something non abrasive like a chop stick to see if the lead deposits come off easily? Thanks View Quote that was the 30hr report. I used a toothpick to poke at it. It’s still fairly hard and doesn’t come off that easily, but not like super rock hard. I could probably get another 25% off somewhat easily if I scraped at it with a dental pick or something… but I’m not wasting time scraping. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. Or maybe the solution just got all used up… it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8” of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish. I’m going to put the 4 “bad” baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I’m skeptical they’ll look get much better. https://i.imgur.com/0u49sDL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pw0Or72.jpg 2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there’s still some caking on the face scallops. I’m pleased with these. https://i.imgur.com/YT3H5TD.jpg 4 baffles are a little better overall but there’s still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well. Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle. It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though. Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up. https://i.imgur.com/hSmfgNV.jpg View Quote Those still look fantastic compared to what they used to look like. Especially just sitting in the solution with no agitation. |
|
|
|
|
|
Originally Posted By peachy: I may be wrong, but I think at least two different companies make CLR with somewhat different formulas. I wanna say this came up with Energetic Arm’s advice on cleaning, where they recommend a CLR from a specific manufacturer for their titanium cans. @Kedminster Am I remembering incorrectly? View Quote Here's the thread |
|
|
I have good luck with CLR. It did change the colors of my Mask baffles a bit, but didn't seem to cause any issues. Only soaked them for an hour or so.
|
|
|
|
Tag
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Mindfull: Wonder if it does any better that purple power in an ultrasonic. Dont want to use an ultrasonic with his warlock aluminum baffles. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mindfull: Originally Posted By BigPolska: Hmmm.. Run the solution in an ultrasonic cleaner? Wonder if it does any better that purple power in an ultrasonic. Dont want to use an ultrasonic with his warlock aluminum baffles. You can put AL in an ultrasonic cleaner. We do it all the time with warm water in cleaning solutions to prep small parts for chem-film coating and post cleaning for optic parts. Cleaner, DI water rinse, alodine, then rinse and DI water again. Larger parts get the full vapor degreaser treatment. You just can't leave an aluminum in an US cleaner for a very long time in certain solutions or it could pit. |
|
|
I can confirm that my ultrasonic cleaner running regular Simple Green at their general cleaning ratio caused putting on some aluminum baffles.
Not saying all ultrasonic cleaners will do this as I think it's frequency dependent. |
|
|
Originally Posted By McGruff1533: I can confirm that my ultrasonic cleaner running regular Simple Green at their general cleaning ratio caused putting on some aluminum baffles. Not saying all ultrasonic cleaners will do this as I think it's frequency dependent. View Quote Simple green will etch aluminum without ultrasonic. Simple green extreme is the aluminum safe version. |
|
|
Originally Posted By SDet: Simple green will etch aluminum without ultrasonic. Simple green extreme is the aluminum safe version. View Quote I was looking at getting some of the Extreme version for some aluminum parts, but haven't seen much feedback on it. Any idea if it actually does anything for suppressors? |
|
|
Okay, you’ve got my attention.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: You can put AL in an ultrasonic cleaner. We do it all the time with warm water in cleaning solutions to prep small parts for chem-film coating and post cleaning for optic parts. Cleaner, DI water rinse, alodine, then rinse and DI water again. Larger parts get the full vapor degreaser treatment. You just can't leave an aluminum in an US cleaner for a very long time in certain solutions or it could pit. View Quote @Millennial I should of worded my post different and clarified, I ment with a non adjustable frequency ultrasonic cleaner. I don't know the threshold, but I think most ultrasonic cleaners frequency will pit aluminum. I would be happy to be wrong though. I have a mustang inbound with aluminum baffles and i would be pleased to use it in an ultrasonic cleaner. Do you know the ultrasonic cleaner frequency that is safe for aluminum? |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I'm a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It's hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. Or maybe the solution just got all used up it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8" of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish. I'm going to put the 4 "bad" baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I'm skeptical they'll look get much better. https://i.imgur.com/0u49sDL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pw0Or72.jpg 2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there's still some caking on the face scallops. I'm pleased with these. https://i.imgur.com/YT3H5TD.jpg 4 baffles are a little better overall but there's still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well. Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle. It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though. Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up. https://i.imgur.com/hSmfgNV.jpg View Quote I'd bet this stuff works much better as a PM maybe once every 500-1000 rds rather than waiting until it is completely caked. (It's often easier to prevent a big mess than it is to clean up a big mess) As a PM it would be super easy. Drop in the solution, wait 24 hours, rinse under hot water, dry, grease the piston or 3-lug if applicable, reassemble. Easier than cleaning the host gun, which some of us do every time we shoot. Heck, if the solution is reusable (probably could strain it through cheesecloth), maybe just do this every time you shoot a rimfire suppressor. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. View Quote Excellent, thank you for the test and for the results. This is about what I expected. Seems the solution is an excellent carbon cleaner but does nothing to lead. Which makes sense, as the only thing that dissolves lead is The Dip and that’s nasty shit. So it seems like the only way to easily remove lead remains to be The Dip or physical methods like hand scrape or wet tumble with SS pins. |
|
|
Originally Posted By JSchell1309: Seems the solution is an excellent carbon cleaner but does nothing to lead. Which makes sense, as the only thing that dissolves lead is The Dip and that's nasty shit. So it seems like the only way to easily remove lead remains to be The Dip or physical methods like hand scrape or wet tumble with SS pins. View Quote That makes a lot of sense. |
|
|
Originally Posted By kfd82: Originally Posted By peachy: I may be wrong, but I think at least two different companies make CLR with somewhat different formulas. I wanna say this came up with Energetic Arm’s advice on cleaning, where they recommend a CLR from a specific manufacturer for their titanium cans. @Kedminster Am I remembering incorrectly? Here's the thread From the OP of the thread: Friendly safety reminder: Any used cleaning solution will contain lead which is toxic, especially in an aqueous form. Use all proper safety equipment including gloves and eye protection when handling the solution. Dispose of the solution properly per local regulations. As a total newbie to using this stuff to clean suppressors...what is the proper way to dispose of the solution? |
|
|
Originally Posted By JSchell1309: Excellent, thank you for the test and for the results. This is about what I expected. Seems the solution is an excellent carbon cleaner but does nothing to lead. Which makes sense, as the only thing that dissolves lead is The Dip and that’s nasty shit. So it seems like the only way to easily remove lead remains to be The Dip or physical methods like hand scrape or wet tumble with SS pins. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JSchell1309: Originally Posted By Millennial: 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. Excellent, thank you for the test and for the results. This is about what I expected. Seems the solution is an excellent carbon cleaner but does nothing to lead. Which makes sense, as the only thing that dissolves lead is The Dip and that’s nasty shit. So it seems like the only way to easily remove lead remains to be The Dip or physical methods like hand scrape or wet tumble with SS pins. Thanks for doing this test. This might be the thing I'm looking for to clean my Odessa, with all the threadable segments. I use it strictly for 380/9mm, and what I've been using (Slip2000's Carbon Killer) doesn't really attack caked on carbon as aggressively as I'd like. |
|
It takes away some of the visual impact when you can't see it.
|
Originally Posted By McGruff1533: I can confirm that my ultrasonic cleaner running regular Simple Green at their general cleaning ratio caused putting on some aluminum baffles. Not saying all ultrasonic cleaners will do this as I think it's frequency dependent. View Quote |
|
|
I picked up a 32 oz bottle.
Seems like this product will work well for 9mm cans that use aluminum baffles (GSL Phoenix, and CGS Mod9 for me) - as long as you’re not shooting cast lead bullets. It seems like its still best to use a variety of methods for cleaning cans. For me I will probably approach cleaning like so with my cans: Breakthrough suppressor cleaner - GSL Phoenix and CGS Mod9 SS Wet Tumbler - DA Mask, Rugged Obsidian, and HB Vidar 22 Jelmar CLR - EA Nyx Mod 1 Screw cleaning sealed cans! |
|
|
this is interesting. have been wondering if this stuff was worth the $$ or it was snake voodoo. may have to give it a try next cleaning session.
i tried to find on amazon but they didn’t have it and the pay for shipping directly from them really turned me off….im stingy |
|
|
Originally Posted By SDet: It is removing material to do that..... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SDet: Originally Posted By 1iviper: more than likely they don't recommend clr because it will remove the color of the heat treat from the baffles and people freak out thinking they damaged their baffles It is removing material to do that..... the oxidation heat color on stainless and titanium parts is millionths of an inch thick... that's like 20-30 angstroms... a dozen atoms or so thick. You would need a scanning electron microscope to observe the "removed material". |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: the oxidation heat color on stainless and titanium parts is millionths of an inch thick... that's like 20-30 angstroms... a dozen atoms or so thick. You would need a scanning electron microscope to observe the "removed material". View Quote Todd from dead air also said its common for that heat treatment to come off |
|
|
Originally Posted By JSchell1309: https://i.imgur.com/XbcZg0i.jpg Good shit my man, thanks for bringing this attention, testing it out, and reporting your findings. I stand corrected on this not attacking lead like I originally thought. I’ll likely still simply SS pin tumble rimfire but may pick up a bottle of this to squirt into my PCC 9mm sealed can and 30 cal can. Like you said, squirt it in and let it attack the simple carbon and copper build up. Rimfire lead can simply be beaten into submission in a rock tumbler lol. View Quote I wouldn't even use that squirt bottle. Grab a rubber stopper to plug one of the ends, pour it in until its full, let it sit overnight, drain it into a jar, and reuse the juice until it stops working. Rinse with hot water and let it dry. Tumbler and stainless pins media, soda blasters, and ultrasonic cleaners present an initial investment hurdle if people aren't already equipped. A $15 bottle of cleaner is a very small price and this seems to work well on steel, stainless, titanium, aluminum, centerfire and rimfire... so overall a good product. I only used up about $9 worth of solution getting a neglected caked on rimfire can like 90% clean with no scrubbing and only a moderate chance I poisoned or gave myself cancer. EDIT: I've got an AAC TiRant I've never cleaned either (i think you'll notice a pattern here)... I'm can to seal one end and just fill it up with solution and let it sit overnight, drain it, examine the fluid, and then take it apart to see how good of a job it did just filling it and dumping it out. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: I wouldn't even use that squirt bottle. Grab a rubber stopper to plug one of the ends, pour it in until its full, let it sit overnight, drain it into a jar, and reuse the juice until it stops working. Rinse with hot water and let it dry. Tumbler and stainless pins media, soda blasters, and ultrasonic cleaners present an initial investment hurdle if people aren't already equipped. A $15 bottle of cleaner is a very small price and this seems to work well on steel, stainless, titanium, aluminum, centerfire and rimfire... so overall a good product. I only used up about $9 worth of solution getting a neglected caked on rimfire can like 90% clean with no scrubbing and only a moderate chance I poisoned or gave myself cancer. EDIT: I've got an AAC TiRant I've never cleaned either (i think you'll notice a pattern here)... I'm can to seal one end and just fill it up with solution and let it sit overnight, drain it, examine the fluid, and then take it apart to see how good of a job it did just filling it and dumping it out. View Quote @Millennial Don't forget to weigh the can before and after cleaning like you thought about before. |
|
The plane flew, admit you're wrong and get over it.
|
|
Is there any concern about soaking dissimilar metals in the same electrolytic solution? Seems like that could be a recipe for galvanic corrosion, but I'm no chemist. Some suppressors have aluminum, titanium, and SS all in the same unit.
|
|
|
Bottle showed up from Amazon about 10 minutes ago. One of the Sparrows is soaking as we speak. I'll see what happens in a few hours. I'm also going to try it on a sealed Gemtech Predator as well.
|
|
|
I think I'm going to give this stuff a try, mainly to keep weight down... I didn't realize just how much weight the cans were gaining until I started weighing everything carefully as part of my AAC upgrade.
Question; does anyone have an opinion on whether this stuff would break a hub mount loose? I see some folks rely on the adapter carbon locking in; it would seem like a good idea to remove the adapter, clean/dry, and reinstall. For those that use Rocksett.. any idea if this stuff would dissolve that? |
|
|
Sigh. This place costs me money yet again… I’m going to dunk my .22 can baffles when I get it and see what happens.
|
|
Not fly enough to be halal....
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.