TL;DR-  Buy this sh!t.  

So I got a bottle of this for free at the ECNS shooting event from the promo table.  Now we all know how much of a hassle cleaning suppressor parts can be and there's only a few methods that are decent; ultrasonic, tumbling with ss pins, media blasting, and "the dip".  All have their own hassles.  So I really didn't give much weight to the promises on some bottle of stuff I'd never heard of before that was given to me for free.  Safe on aluminum, titanium, stainless, steel, and environmentally friendly and user safe and water based and biodegradable and blah blah blah...  yeah, right.  This is going to suck.    And it's $30 for a spray bottle?  LOL, maybe I can sell it.  I tossed it aside when I got home 3 weeks ago and forgot about it until I found it again last night.

I had a really dirty mount that had a significant amount of lead and carbon caking from full auto fire sitting around.  I don't even bother trying to clean my mounts anymore until they begin to seize up occasionally, which this one was at the point of.  The rock hard full auto deposits don't even blast off all that easily.  So I figured what the heck, poured some of this miracle potion in a small dish, set the suppressor mount in and wholly expected to be disappointed 24 hours later.   I don't care; it was free to me.  I checked on it about 3-4 hours later and WOW... it was clean.  Clean clean.  I took it out, wiped it with a paper towel and rinsed it under warm water in the sink.  No scrubbing.

OMFG. Get some of this shit.  I don't care that it's $30 on their website.  It's like "the dip" on steroids that's safe on aluminum and won't poison me.  Better than any method I've ever tried.  I have no doubts it will clean baffles following their instructions, and I'll do some baffles here soon just to post an update here.  When I run out, I'm buying the big gallon jug and pouring it in an ultrasonic cleaner (I can't even fathom how ridiculous this stuff is going to work with agitation or sonic action).  I'll never have to manually clean a baffle, mount, pistol slide, pistol barrel, charging handle or BCG again.

Before and after (about 3-4 hours)

 

 


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Test 2:

Neglected SWR Warlock (Aluminum baffles). Several bricks of CCI Standard (uncoated lead).  I don’t keep track of rounds and I don’t clean suppressors, so it was a pain to get apart.  I reused the solution I used on the flash hider and topped it off to get everything submerged.  So it’s a bit used up already.

Before…



Macaroni in the pot; that’s some wet ass…



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5.5 hour Later...  Pulled one baffle out randomly and simply wiped it with a paper towel.  No scrubbing or scraping.  The nooks on the inside and the scallops on the face still have some hard caking… everything else is squeaky clean. The anodizing appears unaffected.  I’m pleased so far.  

I’m going to put this one back in and leave the other baffles untouched and check at the 24 hour mark.











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30 hour rimfire update:

The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours.  I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance.  This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard.  It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can.

Or maybe the solution just got all used up… it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8” of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish.  I’m going to put the 4 “bad” baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I’m skeptical they’ll look get much better.  





2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there’s still some caking on the face scallops. I’m pleased with these:



4 baffles are a little better overall but there’s still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well.  Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle.  It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though.  Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up.



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Final update (maybe):

So to test if the solution just got all used up and needed refreshed, I replaced the old black solution yesterday with fresh stuff and I also put it in a mason jar this time so I could swirl/agitate it frequently.  Remember, the first baffle soaking was with solution I'd already used on the AAC blackout mount.  So it wasn't quite fresh.  Furthermore, the steel centerfire suppressor mount caking would be primarily carbon and copper fouling due to FMJ rounds whereas the (very neglected) aluminum rimfire baffle fouling is primarily carbon and lead because the ammo used was mostly CCI Standard uncoated lead. So different base material and different fouling composition and much heavier caking on the baffles.  Plus the cloudy black solution had a different "feel" and smell to it; it felt "drier" and less "surfactanty" (shutup... I get to make words up if I want)... which is what leads me to question whether that solution might just be all used up and no longer effective.

> So after the suppressor mount, the cleaning solution had attained a lightly cloudy but mostly clear blueish green tint (indicative of primarily cupric/cuprous salts in solution) and had carbon precipitate on the bottom of the dish (carbon is pretty much insoluble in most any solvents due to being very nonpolar with stable covalent bonding; so it's not surprising the carbon precipitate settled out and the copper turned the solution blue.  I suspect the cloudiness was from a bit of lead).

>> And after the first baffle soaking some baffles were darn near clean and the severely caked baffles had less caking on them, but still not clean and action appears to have halted.  So there was a reduction of lead deposits.  And the solution was opaque black... furthermore the black solution was not easily cleared pouring through filter paper, this tells us it's not likely just suspended carbon precipitate but maybe extremely fine lead(II) sulfide in suspension (??).  Most lead compound are usually clear, sometimes yellow, I can't think of a black lead solution and I don't think the lead removal is making lead acetate (ie: "the dip") both because of the color and the PH of the new and used solution are both >8 (alkaline).  I didn't have the balls to taste it for sweetness and no longer have access to an FTIR or HPLC equipment.  Anyways, I digress... all this to say I think it absolutely "works on lead" in addition to the carbon and copper.

So I refreshed the solution, put the 3 worst baffles and the thread mount back in solution, and gave it another ~24 hours overnight (swirling/shaking it somewhat regularly, this time).  And the solution is black again today.  I pulled out all the baffles and wiped them off - just paper towel wiping, no scraping or hard work.  There is noticeable deposit reduction again - I can see most of the interior walls and deposits are mostly just remaining in the nooks and crannies.  Much improvement.   I think this confirms that the lack of complete performance on the baffles previously was due to the solution getting all used up.  These were the 3 worst baffles and now look pretty decent inside and out.











I'm  not going to keep soaking and wiping these to complete cleanliness seeing as I've already used ~9oz of my 16oz bottle.  Although also keep in mind this was a quite neglected 15 year old rimfire silencer with two rebuilds on it that I don't bother cleaning (when it fills up I just pay for a rebuild, LOL).  Conclusion:  This product works, is low effort, and works on aluminum!  At this point I am completely confident that, given enough simple soak/swirl/wipe cycles and using enough volume of solution to handle the level of fouling, that the baffles would eventually get completely clean.  And likely much much faster with something more volumes (that could handle lots of fouling before being used up) like a heated ultrasonic cleaner.  Moreover, if one were to do this treatment to rimfire baffles regularly and not let mounts/baffles get too caked up, it would seem to be pretty effortless.  After all, it had the blackout mount nearly spotless in just a few hours.  HOWEVER I DO NOT THINK that simply spraying a few squirts on rimfire baffles will affect much change because it heavier fouling does appear to "use up" and neutralize a fair bit of product.  But I'll bet you can get away with cleaning centerfire suppressors parts or mounts using  significantly less solution; maybe even just spraying it on and shooting it clean like they say (although that makes me cringe because whatever this shit is and it's lead/copper byproducts are is going to end up all over your face and in your lungs... I think I'll just rinse them clean and let them dry before shooting, LOL).

Used it for my 22 warlock and it worked great. Only soaked for 2 hrs and took most of the carbon and lead out. Next time I’ll soak it longer. Definitely works and I’ll get a gallon next time I need some.

For anyone that has used both a soda blaster and this breakthrough cleaner, which one do you prefer? I'm wanting to get caked on lead off aluminum baffles.

My OG Turbo just went for a swim in this stuff. Factory weight seems to be 13oz, it currently weighs...not 13oz. I don't keep exact round count but would guess it's closer to 20k than 10k rounds. The cleaner is working immediately judging by color. I'll see how it looks tomorrow.
Attached File

Saw a video from SHOT today where the rep mentioned it could damage cerakote

Doesn't seem to work any better than CLR.

But it is supposedly safe on materials that CLR will eat.

This. Did my first CLR soak last night on some titanium baffles. Worked great. But I still bought a gallon of the breakthrough stuff because it’s safe to use on aluminum. Not sure what CLR would do to anodized aluminum baffles but I don’t want to test it.

CLR is safe for titanium and stainless steel?

Just soaked these aluminum baffles from my 7 year old Huntertown 9mm can, they were pretty dirty and never could get them no where near this clean.

Soaked them, took a nylon brush and scrubbed them off, rinsed with warm water and this is how they turned out.
Not to bad.

Just a note, the stuff does an incredible job cleaning the inside of a bolt carrier and on the bolt itself..  Just leave it in overnight, no scraping required.

I have read yes and I have read no. I know Thunder Beast at one point (and may still) recommends the use of CLR for cleaning/flushing some of their titanium cans. I also read that Dead Air said CLR could be used on the stainless baffles in the Mask, but not sure if that is still relevant today or not. In my case I let the titanium baffles from one of my rimfire suppressors soak in a 50/50 water and CLR mixture for about 4-5 hours and they came out almost 100% clean. Much better than using a tumbler and pins. I also found a post where a guy soaked a block of aluminum in CLR overnight and it didn't do anything to it, but it wasn't a scientific test and I personally will not be using CLR with aluminum baffles.

I did order a gallon of the Breakthrough suppressor cleaner so I'll be using that going forward but am still impressed how well the CLR worked and would use it again if I had to. Of course, do your own research and determine how much you want to risk personally. Or just buy some Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner and don't worry about it.

Idk about titanium as I don’t have any titanium cans, but I use it all the time on my SS rimfire baffles and CLR works great. Leave them in for about an hour and they come out clean. If there’s residual remaining on any baffles, I’ll put them in for another 30 minutes or so and they wipe clean with a rinse and wipe with paper towel. Been doing this for over a year and haven’t seen any ill effects.

I think I’ve read most of the posts, but I can’t recall if anyone has posted if this stuff is safe for o-rings?  

Thinking BCG and 9mm piston.

How are you guys drying centerfire cans after draining them? I'm going to flush mine with hot water but I don't want to risk any rust.

Suppose I could put some rounds thru it for added motivation

What is your can made of that would rust?   Aren't most cans stainless steel, titanium, or aluminum  add in some Inconell or Stellite baffles which are both corrosion resistant.?

Stainless+Inconel...I'm probably being paranoid, huh. It's been soaking for about 24hrs, I'll leave it for another day or two, scrub what little I can, then see if it shed any weight.

@dmk0210 heads up that's one of those scam crypto sites. I don't think anyone will bite but you never know. I figured that was the case because I don't think they've made that ammo in years maybe close to a decade.

Meh. Not impressed so far. Octane 45HD. It was pretty dirty as I had to knock the baffles out with a dowel and rubber mallet. Probably 1500 rounds of 9mm and 45ACP since last cleaning. Let the baffles and piston soak for 24 hours and not much of a difference when I checked them this am. Now into the ultrasonic cleanser to see if that helps.  Usually a few trips thru with Slip2000 does a good job. We will see how this stands up to that.

Edit to add:
Ran it thru 2x 30 min cycles.  Liquid got real dirty and basically stopped working.  I scraped the carbon with a scraper until most was removed then switched over to Slip2000 for 2 more cycles to finish up.  
This stuff is expensive and wasn't any easier or better than what I have been using at 3 times the cost.  Juice isn't worth the squeeze IMO.

What have you been using typically?

I've got an old Bowers CAC9 I use on a MP5 shooting mainly cast & coated projectiles, lots of full auto blasting. I don't really keep a tally on rds shot since I last cleaned it but if had to guess I'd say at least 2K so it wasn't terribly dirty.

I've had the baffles soaking for two weeks and simply wiping each baffle with a cotton patch and then soaking them again. Jar holds about 8 oz and I have not changed the solution. At this point two baffles still have a minimal amount of crud on them and had I changed the solution they would probably be like new already.

I am pleased with the results, yes it is slow compared to soda blasting but not nearly as messy! I'm not ready to toss my soda blasting gear yet but it will definitely take a back seat to the Breakthrough cleaner.

I found some at Scheel's and soaked my Lunar 9 baffles (aluminum) overnight. Turned out great with almost no brushing/scrubbing. They were pretty caked up from a mix of centerfire and rimfire shooting. Will buy again

Ultrasonic with Slip2000 and elbow grease.

I have never seen spacers like that on a can with K baffles, they could almost double the amount of baffles in there. Or make the can a lot shorter. Normally K's are stacked right on top of each other.

@arjohnson

It’s a Huntertown arms can, probably why they’re out of business.

My wet tumbler with stainless media from HF works just fine, and I don't need to keep buying any special product.

You can download it from Amazon.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/B15dvqxhuZL.pdf

so it’s just dimethyl sulfoxide diluted down to 10%?

And apparently it's totally not bueno to dump it into the ground or down the drain, much like the dip.

I disposed mine at the local dump, which had provisions for certain chemicals provided they aren't capital D dangerous. It just feels sketchy to pour this stuff down the drain or have it leach into the soil...

Anyways after 3 days of sitting with zero manual agitation, my YHM Turbo lost about half an ounce of weight. I'm sure there's a lot in there that could be scraped out if you could disassemble the can, but that's not an option obviously. This feels like a home run for pistol and rimfire cans. I could always try ultrasonic but I've never gotten a straight answer as to whether it's OK to just toss the whole can in there.

Put in oven at 250*F for an hour. Done.

8654

FedEx has my package listed "Unable to Deliver". My guess is someone smashed the package and it spilled everywhere. I'll give it a few more days and contact Lanbo.

Thursday, 1/25/24
2:02 PM
Shipment exception
Unable to deliver
MIDDLETOWN, CT

2:04 PM
Delay
Package delayed
MIDDLETOWN, CT

Several people (including me) have noted that there's no safety seal under the gallon cap. And the gallon bottle was a bit less robust than the windshield washer fluid I buy (but better than a milk gallon)...

Sometimes that means "We didnt feel like driving to your house." So there's still hope.

Normally, I'd agree with you, but that location is a distribution center that's still 20 miles from my local FedEx that does the deliveries. Still no update today, so I'll probably have to give them a call and then Lanbo.

First world problems.

I got my gallon jug from Lanbos.  The outer box had a big sticker saying this end up⬆️.  Open it up and the inner box from the manufacturer was on its side with this end up going sideways ➡️.  Of course Fedex doesn't give a fuck and it was probably every which way but up during transit.  Luckily mine didn't leak out, but mine was only shipped in state.

@Clicker58

How did you disassemble your CAC9? I have a PAS9 with the upgraded .375 stack.

Called FedEx and it looks like the contents of the package were empty. Meaning that all that cleaner is somewhere in the world where it's not supposed to be...

Sent Lanbo's and email to see what can be done.

I use an adjustable pin face spanner wrench similar to this one to remove the end cap, make sure the pins will fit into the holes of the cap. Then tap out the baffles using a wooden dowel.
Spanner

The k baffles nest into the prior baffles spacer like an AAC Halcyon. Takes up some volume but keeps baffles from bonding to tube with carbon.

I soaked my sealed AAC Aviator in the cleaner for 3 days. Just dropped the whole can in a mason jar and would agitate once or twice a day. The finish is fine except the end cap looks like it lost a little bit of finish. I forgot to weigh the can before the cleaning.
It looks like it did a really good job. it is much cleaner and I could see the port/ hole on edge of the blast baffle that was filled with crud before. It also sounded better.
I weighed my sealed AAC Pilot today before I dropped it in the dip. I will check weight after cleaning.

I let the anodized aluminum baffles from my Surefire Ryder 22-A suppressor soak overnight and they came out like new. I don't have a lot of rounds through this can but enough to make it pretty dirty. There was a lot of stuff that was dislodged from first/blast baffle that I did not even know was there. This stuff really works and makes cleaning aluminum a breeze.

I hope you will post Lanbo's reply.  

Not discounting the shipper's packing, it seems that Breakthrough is using an inadequate container.

If you look early on this thread the same thing happened to me. Received an empty bottle and a soggy box. Had to return the empty bottle to get a replacement.

Based on the same size of this thread, breakthrough definitely needs to fix their bottling/seals.

I wonder what happened to the rugged looking gallon jug that is shown on their website? That looks a lot better than what they are shipping in now. I expected to get the jug as shown but got an unsealed washer fluid type jug as others have reported. Luckily mine arrived in good shape.

Thanks for the information.

So has anyone tried generic dimethyl sulfoxide yet? I ordered some from Amazon today to try out.

I was hoping that someone would be attempting to do this. I'd probably make a 10% solution with maybe several ounces of an aluminum safe cleaner (like Simple green Pro HD) per gallon. If it works, it will be a much cheaper alternative. Something on the order of $10 per gallon for the finished solution.

Reading more about this stuff, it sounds a little creepy, apparently it's great at crossing cell membranes and carrying compounds with it. Not a chemist, but I intend to use thick latex gloves (nitrile won't work) with this stuff after it touches anything with powder or heavy metal fouling.