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Posted: 2/28/2015 6:41:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Overton-AR]
Ok, let me start this by saying, there is PAGE after PAGE of information in the "Official $100 Effective Suppressors" thread. Please DO NOT see this thread as competition to that thread. It is just taking things to the next level. This thread is discuss the building of cans for people who want something that goes beyond the standard $100 can. There are many things that go way beyond the budget of the $100-$200 Form 1 suppressors and this is the place I want to be able to discuss them. If we keep this done right, it will make it easier for people to find the information they want without having to read through so many pages of information. PLEASE UNDERSTAND, I am not saying these things are BETTER or WORSE....just wanting to separate things by dollar amounts so people can shop within their allotted budget. Please do not take this a BASH on ANYONE or ANY product.
The DON'Ts (I may add more of these if needed) - Please don't come here to bicker like 5th graders about different tube manufacturers. - Please don't advertise the name, phone number of prices of your chosen manufacturer. - If you wan the above info from someone, don't solicit this info openly.......PLEAE send them a MESSAGE. - NO ARGUING ABOUT THREAD PITCH.....(cannot take that headache again) 
The DO's Things that are appropriate here should start with a few ideas like.... - Titanium Tubes (other other methods to lighten the weight of our tubes) - Titanium or other Exotic End Caps (or other custom ways to reduce weight) - Exotic Spacer Material - Custom Baffles (over 100 pages of freeze plugs in the other thread, lets NOT discuss them here) - Custom Finishes.....(endless ideas) - Any other idea that adds too the "customization" of your chosen build |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 7:21:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tesla120:
Don't take this the wrong way, but what are you talking about? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tesla120:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Hey guys, I'm sort of new to this here. Just a quick question is it at all possible to build a can that can accept wipes like the Dead Air Ghost? It seems like wipes would be available to buy because of this can coming to market. Don't take this the wrong way, but what are you talking about? The dead air ghost is using a different end cap capable of accepting a wipe. They claim this reduces first round pop. I was wondering if I could build a can that could use their wipes in it. My though is to just put a spacer in the end of the tube that would hold the wipe. |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 7:34:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Just put a spacer in where the wipe would be? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Hey guys, I'm sort of new to this here. Just a quick question is it at all possible to build a can that can accept wipes like the Dead Air Ghost? It seems like wipes would be available to buy because of this can coming to market. Yes. Just put a spacer in where the wipe would be? Or just cut a wipe to fit inside your endcap. |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 8:00:21 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Just put a spacer in where the wipe would be? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Hey guys, I'm sort of new to this here. Just a quick question is it at all possible to build a can that can accept wipes like the Dead Air Ghost? It seems like wipes would be available to buy because of this can coming to market. Yes. Just put a spacer in where the wipe would be? Probably. Their end cap has a little notch/ridge that the wipe tucks into against the inside face of the end cap. Then, there's a dedicated baffle that snugs up again the end cap, which is what your spacer idea would accomplish. |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 8:05:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dolor]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Probably. Their end cap has a little notch/ridge that the wipe tucks into against the inside face of the end cap. Then, there's a dedicated baffle that snugs up again the end cap, which is what your spacer idea would accomplish. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Hey guys, I'm sort of new to this here. Just a quick question is it at all possible to build a can that can accept wipes like the Dead Air Ghost? It seems like wipes would be available to buy because of this can coming to market. Yes. Just put a spacer in where the wipe would be? Probably. Their end cap has a little notch/ridge that the wipe tucks into against the inside face of the end cap. Then, there's a dedicated baffle that snugs up again the end cap, which is what your spacer idea would accomplish. Thanks,  This stuff is really cool. I was keeping my eye out for a Ghost before 41F unfortunately they just seemed really expensive. I like the idea of using a wipe so that you can almost bridge the gap between a wet can and a dry can without getting covered in dirty water.
Has anyone made a modular can yet? Or would I be better off just making 2 cans? |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 9:59:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Thanks, This stuff is really cool. I was keeping my eye out for a Ghost before 41F unfortunately they just seemed really expensive. I like the idea of using a wipe so that you can almost bridge the gap between a wet can and a dry can without getting covered in dirty water. As info...I'd never looked at the design very closely until you asked the question. Here's a snippet from the manual: 
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Posted: 4/30/2016 3:11:34 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
As info...I'd never looked at the design very closely until you asked the question. Here's a snippet from the manual: http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx151/thegreghorton/Mobile%20Uploads/09D2A7B4-6DFB-4143-AA25-91131A740B45_zpseykwkn22.png Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Thanks, This stuff is really cool. I was keeping my eye out for a Ghost before 41F unfortunately they just seemed really expensive. I like the idea of using a wipe so that you can almost bridge the gap between a wet can and a dry can without getting covered in dirty water. As info...I'd never looked at the design very closely until you asked the question. Here's a snippet from the manual: http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx151/thegreghorton/Mobile%20Uploads/09D2A7B4-6DFB-4143-AA25-91131A740B45_zpseykwkn22.png Interesting. thanks for passing along the info. |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 3:14:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dolor]
[#7]
I'm starting to piece together what I want to do.... Has anyone build a Ti can that can handle both rifle and pistol? Similar to the Silencerco Hybrid. It would be pretty nice to go from 9mm to 308 just by swapping out end caps.
Also is there an option to buy "cones" and drill them out? (I have a link but I'm a little afraid to post it at the moment.) Or do you have to "press" the freeze caps yourself. Okay I'm learning more, lol. Would it be wise to make the whole thing out of titanium? Aside from weight would there be any other benefit opposed to using steel cups? |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 12:42:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Overton-AR]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImFarmerTed:
Awesome gesture, dude. Do you have pics of the baffles you are making, what material are you making them out of? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ImFarmerTed:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
PM me if you want to "play" with these TITANIUM VSR's for your suppressor build. 12 - 1.350" x .470" (Going to Hking) 8 - 1.175" x .350" (Going to tesla120) They are extras and I have moved on to making my own baffles on my lathe,. Oh yea......THEY ARE FREE to who ever wants to use them. Awesome gesture, dude. Do you have pics of the baffles you are making, what material are you making them out of? Thanks and yes........ 
I am making them out of aluminum for now. My current builds are 9mm and 300BLK. I have played with 45* and 60* angles and diameters from 1" to 1.482". |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 2:36:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Just submitted my first Form 1 for a can; something I'd never thought i'd do.
This will be a pistol can mainly but I thought it might be cool to make it out of titanium and create it in a way so that I might be able to use it on a rifle too. Hopefully I can also design it so that it can accept wipes. I got plans for a few more cans too! Is there any company that is offering modular tubes? or would I be better off submitting a full sized stamp and a "K" stamp?
Just looking at some of the model names people have submitted on the ATF website. I saw "STFU" and "STFU2" Made me chuckle. |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 11:16:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Nice! What kind of shot glasses are those? It came out great.
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Posted: 5/4/2016 12:27:36 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
My newest addition to the growing collection..... Tube - SD Tactical Ti "B" 7.6" Endcap - SD Tactical Ti Mount - Liberty 3 - Lug Baffle - Aluminum "dry storage cups" Weight - 13.00 Oz. Sound - Yet to be tested.....keeping fingers crossed. 
- Tube - This can will reside permanently on my newly built 9mm shorty. I wanted the suppressor to be hidden inside a Bravo Co. KMR rail. The KMR is a fairly slim rail with an advertised ID of 1.300", however I was very glad that it measured at 1.360" when it arrived. So I went to work on the suppressor build. I received the tube from SD and it was as advertised......1.31" OD. This was a "hefty" tube with a wall thickness of ~084" which is a bit of OVERKILL for 9mm pressures. So in order to shave some weight and get me some wiggle room inside the KMR rail, I turned down the OD of the tube from 1.310" to 1.275". This gave me a wall thickness of .060" and reduced the weight a little as well. - Baffles - In my other 9mm can my own baffles aren't performing quite as well as I wanted so I decided to try some of the "dry storage cups".....(hoping they perform better). I drilled them out to .403" and clipped them ~.125" with a .250" end mill. I didn't clip the first one, just cause I never do. (unsure of my thinking here). I "gutted" one baffle for use as a spacer for the blast chamber. This was necessary because the plunger in the 3-lug adapter needed the space to engage the mount on the barrel. - Mount - I bought the 3-lug mount from Liberty. It is a very solid and heavy mount. It had an OD of 1.375" which obviously had to be turned down to fit inside the KMR rail. I turned it down to 1.275" to match the tube. It's still heavy, but the quality is excellent. - End cap - The cap was also turned down to 1.275" and then drilled out to .403". Then I put blind holes in the end so I can use my GemTech multi-mount hand wrench for assembly. - Finish - I am going to but a pretty aggressive sand blast finish on this one and then do the "oxi-dip" to darken it. I don't want to paint this one. My other 9mm can is painted with VHT and it isn't holding up as well as I wanted. (You can see my other 9mm can in the pic below. Its mounted on the build in pic 3.) <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/MFT-902-2_zpsjz76qogr.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/MFT-902-2_zpsjz76qogr.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/MFT-902-1_zpsqofxp734.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/MFT-902-1_zpsqofxp734.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/All%20Dressed%20UP_zpswj3n2tak.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/All%20Dressed%20UP_zpswj3n2tak.jpg</a> Looking sharp. Is the blast chamber space just a drilled out cone? |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 1:28:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Looking sharp. Is the blast chamber space just a drilled out cone? Yes I just "gutted" one of the "dry storage cups" and turned it into the spacer. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 12:28:49 PM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 5/12/2016 12:03:39 PM EDT
[#15]
I'm here to say that the DM Advanced end caps are amazing and he does great work. He will even size the exit hole guide for your drill bit so it makes a perfect center! Couldn't be happier.
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Posted: 5/12/2016 2:19:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mattyvac:
I'm here to say that the DM Advanced end caps are amazing and he does great work. He will even size the exit hole guide for your drill bit so it makes a perfect center! Couldn't be happier. How long did it take to get them? |
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Posted: 5/12/2016 2:25:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Hammer:
How long did it take to get them? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Hammer:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
I'm here to say that the DM Advanced end caps are amazing and he does great work. He will even size the exit hole guide for your drill bit so it makes a perfect center! Couldn't be happier. How long did it take to get them? Mine were SS and Non-DM and they took 17-18 weeks. I ordered on Jan 5, 2016. |
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Posted: 5/14/2016 1:28:31 PM EDT
[#18]
Woohoo! I've been checking DM's website since they added the in/out of stock message. Thursday night I hit the jackpot, the Ti kit I wanted showed two in stock. Placed the order with a note about wanting cones too, got email the next day with payment info for the cones and BC spacer. It ships today.
I should have ordered in December when the eform was submitted, put it off. Stamp was approved in April, about the same time the wait jumped to 16-20 weeks. Really happy that they got their CNC machine up and running. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 12:00:36 AM EDT
[#19]
Cups were a little big for the tube, stuck them on a bolt and threw it in the drill press and let it run against some Emory cloth. Smoothed them out, and I went slow enough to keep checking fit without going too small. Finish the rest tomorrow, then we find out if I have them centered right 
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Posted: 5/18/2016 12:14:30 AM EDT
[#20]
Got it done total cost was $230 Video soon. 
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Posted: 5/20/2016 12:34:28 AM EDT
[#21]
Got my f1 back yesterday and finally finished up my suppressor. This is a 6" .30 cal titanium SDTA can. I used 9 freeze plugs formed with a homemade ~60 degree cone on a press, and I drilled them out on my neighbor's lathe. Went the cheap route and used a valve spring for my blast chamber, and it also keeps everything tight. Total weight is 14oz which isn't great, but I suppose it could be worse. Total price was about $260 with all parts together. Sounds great for what it is though!
One unfortunate thing is that in the ~200 rounds I've put through it in 2 different days, I had an endcap strike today. It worked fine yesterday, but today after my first mag, I noticed that it nicked my endcap (baffles are .368 and endcap is about .284). My tube is a .30 cal but I have 2 endcaps: 5.56 and .30 for whatever I'm using it on. None of the baffles were hit, but the smaller endcap was. Any reason on what could have caused this? Am I missing something obvious? Ammo was 55gr Wolf Gold which has always been great for me, and the barrel was either a 20" Criterion or my 10.5 LMT. I put a few rounds through each today before I noticed the strike, so it could have been either...but both are quality barrels. Is this a freak ammo issue? Pics of everything (sorry fr bad quality on some). I'll post a video once my desktop is working and I can hop on Premiere and get it edited together. Everything lined up: 
Parts before drilling: 
The lathe (my first time using one): 
Started with a 1/8" pilot hole in each plug: 
Then chopped an old drill bit in half, put an angular cutting tool on the lathe, and made this makeshift 60 degree cone because I'm too cheap to buy a real one: 
Used a bench vise to form them as best as I could, which looks like this. Then my neighbor took them to work and pressed them a little deeper on his bigger press there. 
Here it is on my LMT 10.5 and Fulton Armory M16A2. It'll live on the SBR most of the time: 
And here's the endcap strike that has me puzzled: 
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Posted: 5/20/2016 8:26:36 AM EDT
[#22]
Uh - two endcaps?
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Posted: 5/20/2016 10:19:14 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman12:
Got my f1 back yesterday and finally finished up my suppressor. This is a 6" .30 cal titanium SDTA can. I used 9 freeze plugs formed with a homemade ~60 degree cone on a press, and I drilled them out on my neighbor's lathe. Went the cheap route and used a valve spring for my blast chamber, and it also keeps everything tight. Total weight is 14oz which isn't great, but I suppose it could be worse. Total price was about $260 with all parts together. Sounds great for what it is though! One unfortunate thing is that in the ~200 rounds I've put through it in 2 different days, I had an endcap strike today. It worked fine yesterday, but today after my first mag, I noticed that it nicked my endcap (baffles are .368 and endcap is about .284). My tube is a .30 cal but I have 2 endcaps: 5.56 and .30 for whatever I'm using it on. None of the baffles were hit, but the smaller endcap was. Any reason on what could have caused this? Am I missing something obvious? Ammo was 55gr Wolf Gold which has always been great for me, and the barrel was either a 20" Criterion or my 10.5 LMT. I put a few rounds through each today before I noticed the strike, so it could have been either...but both are quality barrels. Is this a freak ammo issue? Pics of everything (sorry fr bad quality on some). I'll post a video once my desktop is working and I can hop on Premiere and get it edited together. Everything lined up: <a href="http://imgur.com/jvQoibc" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/jvQoibc.jpg</a> Parts before drilling: http://i.imgur.com/84oafUm.jpg The lathe (my first time using one): http://i.imgur.com/oAoler5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/s1VX3WS.jpg Started with a 1/8" pilot hole in each plug: http://i.imgur.com/qmZsuKp.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7HbOnA8.jpg Then chopped an old drill bit in half, put an angular cutting tool on the lathe, and made this makeshift 60 degree cone because I'm too cheap to buy a real one: http://i.imgur.com/3SctPvE.jpg Used a bench vise to form them as best as I could, which looks like this. Then my neighbor took them to work and pressed them a little deeper on his bigger press there. http://i.imgur.com/21FQDsl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Esoyrip.jpg Here it is on my LMT 10.5 and Fulton Armory M16A2. It'll live on the SBR most of the time: http://i.imgur.com/3VreSFv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/o2aW6tW.jpg And here's the endcap strike that has me puzzled: http://i.imgur.com/3KNnD8Y.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hV8P7gI.jpg A valve spring in the blast chamber is a no go. The spring likely compressed during firing allowing the freeze plugs to move causing that endcap strike. Are you sure you didn't have a baffle strike as well? You need a solid spacer for your blast chamber. Legally speaking, you can't have two endcaps. I would destroy that .22 cal endcap and just use the .30 cal endcap. You probably won't be able to tell a difference in noise reduction. |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 10:20:40 AM EDT
[#24]
I don't believe it's legal for you to have the 5.56 end cap on the 30cal can...
Your strike could have just been a zinger. Handloads or factory? |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 10:53:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: pointman12]
[#25]
Tons of people recommend the valve spring on SDTA's forums. I've also been told that multiple endcaps are also ok to have and use, but the .22 one is toast anyways so that's not an issue anymore.
Ammo was brass cased, factory ammo (55gr Wolf Gold). No baffle strikes at all--checked them each closely. Just the endcap was hit which is why I'm confused. Could it have just been an unlucky round that would have hit any suppressor, regardless of who made it? |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 11:41:57 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman12:
Tons of people recommend the valve spring on SDTA's forums. I've also been told that multiple endcaps are also ok to have and use, but the .22 one is toast anyways so that's not an issue anymore. Ammo was brass cased, factory ammo (55gr Wolf Gold). No baffle strikes at all--checked them each closely. Just the endcap was hit which is why I'm confused. Could it have just been an unlucky round that would have hit any suppressor, regardless of who made it? I would not trust a spring to do the job of holding the stack tight. An appropriately sized spacer in the blast chamber is the best option. I don't know if it could be an ammo issue. I guess it would be possible but IMO the spring is the culprit. You don't want anything that can possibly move within the suppressor that isn't supposed to like a booster. A solid spacer is cheap insurance. That extra end cap was a suppressor part that wasn't attached to the suppressor. That's why it was illegal. But as you said, that isn't an issue anymore. Be sure to destroy it. |
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Posted: 5/22/2016 8:38:03 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman12:
Tons of people recommend the valve spring on SDTA's forums. I've also been told that multiple endcaps are also ok to have and use, but the .22 one is toast anyways so that's not an issue anymore. Ammo was brass cased, factory ammo (55gr Wolf Gold). No baffle strikes at all--checked them each closely. Just the endcap was hit which is why I'm confused. Could it have just been an unlucky round that would have hit any suppressor, regardless of who made it? pointman12 I do not know anything about the spring strength of a "valve spring", but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. A spring can be used in 22 cans |
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Posted: 5/22/2016 8:58:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTM1:
...but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. Every one of my centerfire cans has a spring. Not the same kind as pictured, but I'm 100% confident in my design application. 
And I know a handful of people that have ordered the same ones and haven't heard of a single issue. So, to say "do not use any type of spring" is a bit of a stretch. |
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Posted: 5/22/2016 11:05:45 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Every one of my centerfire cans has a spring. Not the same kind as pictured, but I'm 100% confident in my design application.
And I know a handful of people that have ordered the same ones and haven't heard of a single issue. So, to say "do not use any type of spring" is a bit of a stretch. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By CTM1:
...but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. Every one of my centerfire cans has a spring. Not the same kind as pictured, but I'm 100% confident in my design application.
And I know a handful of people that have ordered the same ones and haven't heard of a single issue. So, to say "do not use any type of spring" is a bit of a stretch. What spring are you using? |
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Posted: 5/22/2016 11:13:23 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTM1:
pointman12 I do not know anything about the spring strength of a "valve spring", but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. A spring can be used in 22 cans Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTM1:
Originally Posted By pointman12:
Tons of people recommend the valve spring on SDTA's forums. I've also been told that multiple endcaps are also ok to have and use, but the .22 one is toast anyways so that's not an issue anymore. Ammo was brass cased, factory ammo (55gr Wolf Gold). No baffle strikes at all--checked them each closely. Just the endcap was hit which is why I'm confused. Could it have just been an unlucky round that would have hit any suppressor, regardless of who made it? pointman12 I do not know anything about the spring strength of a "valve spring", but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. A spring can be used in 22 cans Why not? I've never heard of any issues, and to be honest, I trust the experience of the guys on SDTA forums with literal binders full of form 1s. Not trying to sound rude, but what do you know that they don't regarding springs? |
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Posted: 5/22/2016 11:50:42 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman12:
Why not? I've never heard of any issues, and to be honest, I trust the experience of the guys on SDTA forums with literal binders full of form 1s. Not trying to sound rude, but what do you know that they don't regarding springs? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman12:
Originally Posted By CTM1:
Originally Posted By pointman12:
Tons of people recommend the valve spring on SDTA's forums. I've also been told that multiple endcaps are also ok to have and use, but the .22 one is toast anyways so that's not an issue anymore. Ammo was brass cased, factory ammo (55gr Wolf Gold). No baffle strikes at all--checked them each closely. Just the endcap was hit which is why I'm confused. Could it have just been an unlucky round that would have hit any suppressor, regardless of who made it? pointman12 I do not know anything about the spring strength of a "valve spring", but seriously DO NOT, AND I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SPRING IN A CENTER RIFLE CAN. Do not listen to people over at SD Tactical for this as they are wrong. A spring can be used in 22 cans Why not? I've never heard of any issues, and to be honest, I trust the experience of the guys on SDTA forums with literal binders full of form 1s. Not trying to sound rude, but what do you know that they don't regarding springs? I think it's an issue with springs in general, you need the right kind that will hold and not fail under heat and stress. I know a few people who tried springs and they failed causing baffle strikes. |
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Posted: 5/23/2016 1:06:38 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tesla120: I think it's an issue with springs in general, you need the right kind that will hold and not fail under heat and stress.
I know a few people who tried springs and they failed causing baffle strikes. Ummm, if your baffles have cylindrical sides, and fit snugly in the can, how is a spring failure going to cause a baffle strike? It could cause a smaller blast chamber and less FRP. |
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Posted: 5/23/2016 6:36:42 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Ummm, if your baffles have cylindrical sides, and fit snugly in the can, how is a spring failure going to cause a baffle strike? It could cause a smaller blast chamber and less FRP. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Originally Posted By tesla120: I think it's an issue with springs in general, you need the right kind that will hold and not fail under heat and stress.
I know a few people who tried springs and they failed causing baffle strikes. Ummm, if your baffles have cylindrical sides, and fit snugly in the can, how is a spring failure going to cause a baffle strike? It could cause a smaller blast chamber and less FRP. A freeze plug should stay orientated correctly and just slide around, but a VSR that is contained between spacers even with a small amount of clearance will be able to flip in the tube and put itself in the path of the bullet. |
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Posted: 5/23/2016 7:01:00 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tesla120:
What spring are you using? I got a variety of springs from Smalley. They're the same springs that you see on the outside of the Dead Air cans (probably different dimensions, though). 
I wanted to try them so I didn't have to worry about getting my blast chamber spacer perfect, or need to account for any settling/compression of the stack which would result in a loose setup. I use the tallest one with the heaviest rate that will fit between the blast spacer and the mounting adapter and still allow the adapter to fully contact the tube when tightened. (Figured that's a much safer location than the exit end). Most of them are probably very close to fully compressed. As an example, most of the ones I used are closer in size to the one on the left in this pic: 
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Posted: 5/23/2016 10:01:55 AM EDT
[#35]
GemTech uses springs on their internal "Bi-Lock" mechanism. I have the G5 and the Quicksand and have used them for YEARS without issue. Its not my first choice for my Form 1 builds, but lots of people are using them with success.
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Posted: 5/23/2016 10:47:25 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
GemTech uses springs on their internal "Bi-Lock" mechanism. I have the G5 and the Quicksand and have used them for YEARS without issue. Its not my first choice for my Form 1 builds, but lots of people are using them with success. Are those springs part of the blast chamber spacer or just part of the locking mechanism? |
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Posted: 5/23/2016 11:20:37 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Are those springs part of the blast chamber spacer or just part of the locking mechanism? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
GemTech uses springs on their internal "Bi-Lock" mechanism. I have the G5 and the Quicksand and have used them for YEARS without issue. Its not my first choice for my Form 1 builds, but lots of people are using them with success. Are those springs part of the blast chamber spacer or just part of the locking mechanism? I'm almost positive they're just part of the locking mechanism. |
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Posted: 5/23/2016 11:21:37 AM EDT
[#38]
DM titanium spacers are so cheap and are so easy to fit to size with a bench grinder that I see no reason to use springs IMO
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USA
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Posted: 5/28/2016 2:20:46 PM EDT
[#39]
Thinking of doing the form 1 thing with DM parts.
Q: for a 308 Ti can, I see that they have 1.500x1.375 and 1.500x1.350 tubes. What are the advantage/disadvantages of each ? Obviously one is stronger, other one is lighter. Will the thinner walled tube hold up to 308 ? Also, are there 1.375 internals available (FPs, cups, whatever) ? |
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Posted: 5/28/2016 4:24:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Thinking of doing the form 1 thing with DM parts. Q: for a 308 Ti can, I see that they have 1.500x1.375 and 1.500x1.350 tubes. What are the advantage/disadvantages of each ? Obviously one is stronger, other one is lighter. Will the thinner walled tube hold up to 308 ? Also, are there 1.375 internals available (FPs, cups, whatever) ? Figure out what you want to do for baffles and then go from there to decide on what tube size. I wouldn't worry about tube strength with a Ti tube |
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Posted: 5/29/2016 2:22:06 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Thinking of doing the form 1 thing with DM parts. Q: for a 308 Ti can, I see that they have 1.500x1.375 and 1.500x1.350 tubes. What are the advantage/disadvantages of each ? Obviously one is stronger, other one is lighter. Will the thinner walled tube hold up to 308 ? Also, are there 1.375 internals available (FPs, cups, whatever) ? I just got the 1.50x1.375 tube. In the notes section of the order mention that you want VSR's, or cones, etc. and what material you want them in. You will get an email response with a price quote for what will fill the tube. A question of my own: is it better to engrave the blast chamber area, middle or exit end? It will be done with a laser engraver to minimum required depth. |
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Posted: 5/29/2016 11:47:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1811GNR:
I just got the 1.50x1.375 tube. In the notes section of the order mention that you want VSR's, or cones, etc. and what material you want them in. You will get an email response with a price quote for what will fill the tube. A question of my own: is it better to engrave the blast chamber area, middle or exit end? It will be done with a laser engraver to minimum required depth. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1811GNR:
Originally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Thinking of doing the form 1 thing with DM parts. Q: for a 308 Ti can, I see that they have 1.500x1.375 and 1.500x1.350 tubes. What are the advantage/disadvantages of each ? Obviously one is stronger, other one is lighter. Will the thinner walled tube hold up to 308 ? Also, are there 1.375 internals available (FPs, cups, whatever) ? I just got the 1.50x1.375 tube. In the notes section of the order mention that you want VSR's, or cones, etc. and what material you want them in. You will get an email response with a price quote for what will fill the tube. A question of my own: is it better to engrave the blast chamber area, middle or exit end? It will be done with a laser engraver to minimum required depth. I will probably be engraving my adapter end cap, instead of possibly making the tube weaker by engraving it. If you are set on doing the tube, I would go with the exit side as it should see the least amount of pressure. Ive seen a few pictures of blown tubes that were engraved in the blast chamber to the middle and it seemed to start there. But I am unsure of the tube size on those. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 5/29/2016 3:53:49 PM EDT
[#43]
You might want to avoid engraving the adapter. There is a pending rule change saying tubes must be engraved. Also, if you are making multiple suppressors, it may be desirable to be able to swap adapters between them.
I am engraving the end cap ends of my tubes because it seems to be the least pressured / heated area. |
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Posted: 5/29/2016 4:13:41 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bravo_Six:
You might want to avoid engraving the adapter. There is a pending rule change saying tubes must be engraved. Also, if you are making multiple suppressors, it may be desirable to be able to swap adapters between them. I am engraving the end cap ends of my tubes because it seems to be the least pressured / heated area. So... You're going to recommend not engraving one piece due to a potential rule change that will have zero to do with his current suppressor...while opting to engrave yours in the most likely place for a baffle strike that will cost you a $200 stamp to replace? Just making sure I have my facts right. 
(This is coming from somebody that engraved adapters on three F1 cans and end caps on the other three F1 cans, so I've been through the thought process as well) |
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Posted: 5/29/2016 5:01:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Lay]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bravo_Six:
You might want to avoid engraving the adapter. There is a pending rule change saying tubes must be engraved. Also, if you are making multiple suppressors, it may be desirable to be able to swap adapters between them. I am engraving the end cap ends of my tubes because it seems to be the least pressured / heated area. Can you source this rule change? ETA - also I will be using Griffin Armament mounts, no need to change out the ends on the tube, nor would I try to use one part of a matched set/solvent trap on another. Keeping the same parts together, changing them could change the tolerences and fit of everything. |
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Posted: 5/29/2016 5:11:58 PM EDT
[#46]
It's ATF Rule 29P. It hasn't even been finalized yet, much less put into effect.
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Posted: 5/29/2016 8:00:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lay:
Can you source this rule change? First attempt was about a year ago, here. Then, as mentioned above, 29P came out this year...although I believe the request was sent to the ATF for it ~8 years ago. |
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Posted: 5/30/2016 1:17:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1811GNR]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
So... You're going to recommend not engraving one piece due to a potential rule change that will have zero to do with his current suppressor...while opting to engrave yours in the most likely place for a baffle strike that will cost you a $200 stamp to replace? Just making sure I have my facts right.
(This is coming from somebody that engraved adapters on three F1 cans and end caps on the other three F1 cans, so I've been through the thought process as well) Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By Bravo_Six:
You might want to avoid engraving the adapter. There is a pending rule change saying tubes must be engraved. Also, if you are making multiple suppressors, it may be desirable to be able to swap adapters between them. I am engraving the end cap ends of my tubes because it seems to be the least pressured / heated area. So... You're going to recommend not engraving one piece due to a potential rule change that will have zero to do with his current suppressor...while opting to engrave yours in the most likely place for a baffle strike that will cost you a $200 stamp to replace? Just making sure I have my facts right.
(This is coming from somebody that engraved adapters on three F1 cans and end caps on the other three F1 cans, so I've been through the thought process as well) I took Bravo_Six's statement to mean "the end cap end" of the tube. I could be mistaken. Is a baffle strike likely to damage that end of the tube itself? |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 5/30/2016 11:26:40 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1811GNR:
I took Bravo_Six's statement to mean "the end cap end" of the tube. I could be mistaken. Is a baffle strike likely to damage that end of the tube itself? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1811GNR:
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By Bravo_Six:
You might want to avoid engraving the adapter. There is a pending rule change saying tubes must be engraved. Also, if you are making multiple suppressors, it may be desirable to be able to swap adapters between them. I am engraving the end cap ends of my tubes because it seems to be the least pressured / heated area. So... You're going to recommend not engraving one piece due to a potential rule change that will have zero to do with his current suppressor...while opting to engrave yours in the most likely place for a baffle strike that will cost you a $200 stamp to replace? Just making sure I have my facts right.
(This is coming from somebody that engraved adapters on three F1 cans and end caps on the other three F1 cans, so I've been through the thought process as well) I took Bravo_Six's statement to mean "the end cap end" of the tube. I could be mistaken. Is a baffle strike likely to damage that end of the tube itself? Yes. I meant marking the tube closest to the end cap. |
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Posted: 5/30/2016 11:32:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1811GNR:
I took Bravo_Six's statement to mean "the end cap end" of the tube. I could be mistaken. Is a baffle strike likely to damage that end of the tube itself? Just to make sure we're on the same page...I'm referring to the adapter as the piece that screws onto the host and the end cap as the far end of the can where the bullet exits. That being said, the far end of the tube is still more likely to take a strike. Being slightly out of alignment at the end of the barrel can lead to being quite a bit out of alignment 6"-9" down the tube. That's why you see more end cap strikes than blast baffle strikes. I took his statement to suggest engraving the end cap itself...which looking back, is most like not what he meant.
I've engraved three of my actual end caps, but there was a reason I went that route, as to never end up with any "extra" pieces while still having all complete suppressors marked appropriately. On my other three builds, I engraved the adapters themselves. I've never engraved the actual tube. |
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