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[#1]
Page 2 says I see a 1970s vintage gun collection with a few years of cleaning and repair tasks ahead.
Too bad about that bulged shotgun barrel. |
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Everywhere we go, we are surrounded by people who stumble through life dependent upon the vigilance and/or kindness of others. - Zardoz
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[#2]
Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: I mean, if I cut down the SxS past the bulge, it should be good to go, right? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: Originally Posted By AbleArcher: SBS the shotguns. Mill out spots for red dots on all of them. Cut all the rifles down to 13.7 and put brakes on them. Screw on sections of rail to attach lights. I mean, if I cut down the SxS past the bulge, it should be good to go, right? See this? This is a man who problem solves. Fuck yes. |
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[#3]
The Winchesters are high quality firearms. Don’t lose that magazine for the 88. They cost a fortune.
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[#4]
The collective knowledge on this forum is unreal, when not arguing about beans in chili.
Very cool guns OP. Thank you for posting pics of them. |
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Never Forget Those Who Died.
Never Forget Those Who Killed Them. |
[#5]
The Win 88 is a post '64 gun as it has pressed in checkering (basket weave.) Being chambered in 243 would make it worth more probably. It would definitely be a keeper for me.
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"The most terrifying words in the English langauge are: I'm from the government and I'm here to help."
Ronald Reagan |
[#6]
Don't know much about the others albeit the 5mm, but that revolver is sweet. I had a Remington mdl 591 that had the 10 rd magazine, thing was a tack driver. Ammo was expensive if you could find it, there was a company out of Mexico Aquila maybe making it but the stopped. I sold it for 3 times what I paid for the thing with 6 boxes of original Remington ammo.
https://www.guns.com/news/review/5mm-remington-rimfire-magnum-a-rimfire-revolution |
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[#7]
Your 1890 is a Third Model. All 1890s and 90s are take-down except for the quite rare and very briefly produced First Models. Don't even bother trying LR in it; 1890s are carrier specific for each caliber, and a Long chamber SHOULDN'T accept a LR round anyway, though it might. Still not a good idea. World still has plenty of Long ammo. If the bore is dogshit (very common on these) a quality relining job is the way to make it last another hundred years. Notice I said quality. If the person slated to do the work starts using terms like "adhesive" or "Loctite" walk away. High temp silver is what people use who actually know what they're doing.
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[#8]
The JP Sauer is a well regarded SAA copy. They were popular during the 60s when everyone wanted to be a cowboy.
The Rohm, buy back material or give it to someone you do not like. Accidentally losing it on a ghetto street might provide some evening news levity. |
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If you think I am sexy now just wait until you find out I have full medical and dental.
Personal pronouns are kiushgvlakjbnoiuvb/nxunefu ewdf/lkujghfoiuanxy;ople |
[#9]
Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: I mean, if I cut down the SxS past the bulge, it should be good to go, right? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: Originally Posted By AbleArcher: SBS the shotguns. Mill out spots for red dots on all of them. Cut all the rifles down to 13.7 and put brakes on them. Screw on sections of rail to attach lights. I mean, if I cut down the SxS past the bulge, it should be good to go, right? Had the same thought. Still need to fix the locking block, so suggest looking @ getting that fixed 1st & insure the right barrel is good before plunking down a tax stamp. Nice guns, OP. There's a chance the Mauser is an antique action which can make it a handy interstate hunting gun you can mail ahead & mail home past ban states. Aguila's run of 5mm rimfire's already been covered. Quick search shows it out of stock about everywhere. And the damn thing is a different dimension than the .22 WMR case, so not simple to convert w/ a replacement barrel. If the Rohm's timing is good, I'd shoot it w/ 148 grn wadcutters or 125 grn Cowboy Action loads. Once the timing goes out, not worth fixing unless you want to learn cheap German revolver gunsmithing. You could always 3-D print a replacement receiver & sand cast it in aluminum, then finish on your Harbor Freight mini-mill. I wouldn't chop the Poly Choke - plenty of used barrels about if you want one to chop for an SBS. Poly Chokes can be useful and were very popular until the introduction of removable choke tubes. If the Rohm works, that's really a pretty decent hunting/HD collection, particularly given it was off the books til you posted pics of everything on the interwebs. |
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Death to quislings.
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[#10]
That's strange. I inherited the exact same Remington 11, same single shot 22 and same tube fed semi 22 from my grandfather.
The tube fed semi wouldn't function until I cleaned it. Stuff on the inside looked it was never cleaned and soaked in used oil. Once it was cleaned it ran perfectly and was the most fun out of the bunch |
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[#11]
What engineer61 said about the steel wool....may give"chore boy" pads a try as they replaced the rust removal pads Brownell use to sell that worked great for removing light to medium freckling.
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[#12]
Originally Posted By Ewald: The Mossberg is a 251 C not 2510. The sights are more or less regulated for SV at 50 yards. Mossberg offered 22lr rifles in several variations of that type of tube action. It is a nifty design. They used it for decades. The parts are largely interchangeable. Numrich has parts. The fork over at Rimfire Central Mossberg subforum can tell you a lot more The design pretty much went by the wayside after '68 as there was no manual safety. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/181990/PXL_20211221_232100189_jpg-3213622.JPG View Quote I have that same rifle. Bought it for $35 at lgs because it has issues feeding. Not sure what it is causing it. |
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I suggest we trade a question mark in for a maybe.
IA, USA
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[#13]
Originally Posted By Inquisitive_Spaniard: Doing that won’t hurt the barrel. A squib from a stuck 16ga wad will definitely do it with a 12ga follow up shot. That barrel is toast. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Inquisitive_Spaniard: Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: It is, my uncle said somebody shot a 16 gauge shell down that barrel which caused the bulging. Doing that won’t hurt the barrel. A squib from a stuck 16ga wad will definitely do it with a 12ga follow up shot. That barrel is toast. Yeah, a good smith could probably fix the bad tab but with the barrel like that most anyone who can do it, won't. Perfect gun to make a "Great Outdoors" style lamp out of. |
WARNING-this post contains words or thoughts that may at some point be discovered by the state of California to cause cancer.
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[#14]
I've had good luck cleaning rust with 0000 steel wool, diesel fuel & elbow grease.
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[#15]
Lol. This thread really reminds me of the one I started not too long ago. Some of the same guns too.
Posting here as it may give you some info... https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/All-the-guns-my-grandfather-left-me---Lots--and-lots--of-pics--Garand--SKS--SandW--SxS-shotguns--Sword/5-2194346/ |
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[#16]
Originally Posted By Inquisitive_Spaniard: Midwest gun supply will be your friend for the model 11. You’ll need an A5 recoil spring and probably a new bronze friction ring. I’d replace the mag spring as well. Wolff gun springs has an extra power action spring. Numrichs has a lot of small parts. The forends were notorious for cracking. It can be fixed with acraglass. I’m in the middle of restoring mine. Make sure your gas rings are set right. Yours is a very old model. It has the suicide safety in the trigger guard. If I recall that’s prior to 1928. The polychoke is simply adjusted by twisting. Neat old guns. If I recall 5mm is still obtainable as a commercial load. It made a slight comeback about 10 years ago. I think it was either Fiochi or PPU that loaded it View Quote Aguila, I have a 591. |
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[#17]
The bulged barrel on the shotgun has compromised the barrel. A wall hangar but I wouldn't want to be too far from a hospital if you shot it. Modern shells would be more stress on the barrel than old ammo.
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The Devil owns the fence line.
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[#18]
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Stuff I learned from A-Team: 1)Always pity da fool 2)Carry wire cutters (you may need to defuse a bomb or start a car) 3)Never trust a crazy fool 4)Carry grenade launcher/machine guns in the van 5)Know how to weld 6)Love It When A Plan Comes Together
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[#19]
Originally Posted By: The bulged barrel on the shotgun has compromised the barrel. A wall hangar but I wouldn't want to be too far from a hospital if you shot it. Modern shells would be more stress on the barrel than old ammo. View Quote As in it’s so compromised that even if I were to SBS/AOW it and chop off the the bulged part of the barrel it would still be likely to blow up? Cause I kinda want to chop it up and put a RMR on it |
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[#20]
Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: As in it’s so compromised that even if I were to SBS/AOW it and chop off the the bulged part of the barrel it would still be likely to blow up? Cause I kinda want to chop it up and put a RMR on it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: Originally Posted By: The bulged barrel on the shotgun has compromised the barrel. A wall hangar but I wouldn't want to be too far from a hospital if you shot it. Modern shells would be more stress on the barrel than old ammo. As in it’s so compromised that even if I were to SBS/AOW it and chop off the the bulged part of the barrel it would still be likely to blow up? Cause I kinda want to chop it up and put a RMR on it I doubt that. The barrel bulged and the lock was damaged. If the barrel aft of the bulge is the same diameter as the right barrel at the same points, I don't see how the aft part of the barrel is "compromised". The bulge was the compromise. I am not an engineer, I have a Liberal Arts degree. I also don't see how older shells would be any less stress than modern shells that are much more consistent in SAAMI pressures than older shells. Standard warnings about steel shot on old chokes apply here, but you're chopping the chokes off anyway. If the chambers are for 2.75" shells, then running modern plastic shells isn't going to be any worse than running paper hulls. |
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Death to quislings.
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The Desert is My Church... and Hunting is My god
ID, USA
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[Last Edit: Varmint-Hunter]
[#21]
The Remington 592 is a great little rifle and the 5mm Remington Rimfire Magnum is a great cartridge. The ammo you showed in the picture is loaded with a 38 grain hollow-point, which was great on larger varmints like woodchucks. After Remington discontinued their ammo, Aguila (Centurion) re-released two different types of 30 grain offerings in 2008, with the SJHP and the JHP Varmint projectiles. After running it for a handful of years, the Centurion branded ammo was brought back under the Aguila name and has been released every couple of years. Ammo can still be found, but the price starts climbing as availability dries up.
The 5mm Remington Rimfire is perfect for varmint / predator hunting, but is a waste for just target shooting. If you have any detailed questions, please feel free to ask. Here are some articles on the cartridge: https://www.varminter.com/?s=5mm+Rimfire+ There are some old 5mm Remington Rimfire magazine articles on this page: https://www.varminter.com/classic-calibers/ Attached File |
"The Desert is My Church and Hunting is My god..." - Me
www.Varminter.com |
[#22]
I'd clean them up reasonably well and stop the rust. Then decide what you want to keep and what you don't. Some of the rust and pitting isn't fixable.
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[Last Edit: 1bamashooter]
[#23]
I'd love to have a 5mm
You can find ammo on gunbroker but it ain't cheap. |
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I've done so much with so little for so long, I can do anything with nothing.
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[#24]
Originally Posted By Varmint-Hunter: The Remington 592 is a great little rifle and the 5mm Remington Rimfire Magnum is a great cartridge. The ammo you showed in the picture is loaded with a 38 grain hollow-point, which was great on larger varmints like woodchucks. After Remington discontinued their ammo, Aguila (Centurion) re-released two different types of 30 grain offerings in 2008, with the SJHP and the JHP Varmint projectiles. After running it for a handful of years, the Centurion branded ammo was brought back under the Aguila name and has been released every couple of years. Ammo can still be found, but the price starts climbing as availability dries up. The 5mm Remington Rimfire is perfect for varmint / predator hunting, but is a waste for just target shooting. If you have any detailed questions, please feel free to ask. Here are some articles on the cartridge: https://www.varminter.com/?s=5mm+Rimfire+ There are some old 5mm Remington Rimfire magazine articles on this page: https://www.varminter.com/classic-calibers/ https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52158/1000021562_jpg-3213897.JPG View Quote My uncle gave me 250 round of the Centurion, and there’s about 25-30 rounds of the Remington left over. Probably shoot some of each to see how they group and then save them for hunting. |
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[#25]
That choke on the Rem 11 is a Herters Vari Choke or as we always called them polychokes if you are planning on actually using it to hunt with I'd get it removed and thread it for internal chokes.
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I've done so much with so little for so long, I can do anything with nothing.
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[#26]
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Death to quislings.
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[#27]
Here is the 5mm ammo my uncle gave me
Untitled by Frisky Dillo, on Flickr And then the 22 Longs came in the mail yesterday Untitled by Frisky Dillo, on Flickr |
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[Last Edit: Bladeswitcher]
[#28]
Rohm RG38: Total junk. A true turd. Don't even think about shooting it.
Hawes Western Marshall (Colt SAA clone) in 357: A cheap gun. I think I'd stick to .38 special. Mossberg 2510: Mossberg .22 rifles are underrated by most folks. They were actually cool guns. There are a couple good websites aimed at the collector community. Some oil soaked 000 steel wool would probably get rid of some of that rust. Winchester Model 88: Clearly the best and most interesting gun of the bunch. You're lucky it's a .243 Spanish Mauser: Be careful with this one. If possible load light loads if you're going to shoot it much. Remington Model 11: The Polychoke negates the "Full" marking on the barrel. The full choke part of the barrel was cut off when they installed the choke device. Yeah, you just twist it. Remington Model 592M: Cool other than the obsolete caliber. Winchester Model 1890, pump action in 22 Long: Another obsolete caliber Marlin model 81 chambered in 22 short, 22 long, and 22 long rifle: Those are great rifles, if the feed mechanism doesn't jam. Later versions had scope rails, but all of them are great guns. Project shotgun: Wall hanger at best. Don't even bother trying to "fix" it. It's dead Jim. Let this be a life lesson. We spend our whole lives gathering guns and they're precious to us, but truth be told, a lot of them ain't worth owning . . . much less passing on. All the more reason to only buy and keep good guns (and take care of them). |
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In a truly free country, Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms would be the name of a convenience store, not a federal agency
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[#29]
Maybe just me, but the barrel on the Model 11 looks shorter than 18". The measurement would not include a removable external choke.
The CETME Mauser has '7mm' on it which is '7mm Mauser' or '7x57mm'. If the rifle has a good bore, it possibly could make a nice sporter in a nice stock, but probably not worth it. The Model 11 forearm; I would fix that crack with Super Glue, the thin, watery kind, like Loctite brand. Working from the inside, hold it vertical and carefully introduce the SG starting about the middle of the crack and let it 'wick' down the crack, eventually filling it. You continue to apply it for a few minutes until it reaches a point of refusal. It will soak into the wood as it goes, creating a strong joint, but you have to keep replacing it until it stops soaking in. Once you get that done, you can move up to the wide part but you want to have a clamp ready with pine buffers so you can put a little pressure on it to close that gap some after the first application in that section. Then you can continue as with the lower section. Leave it clamped for 24 hours, then it should be 'bulletproof'. Use Acetone to remove excess glue if needed. |
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[#30]
Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: Looks like it'll be used as man cave decor then. Thanks! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FriskyDillo: Originally Posted By Inquisitive_Spaniard: Doing that won't hurt the barrel. A squib from a stuck 16ga wad will definitely do it with a 12ga follow up shot. That barrel is toast. That's what I would do too. Great looking gun for that. |
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[#31]
Originally Posted By 1saxman: Maybe just me, but the barrel on the Model 11 looks shorter than 18". The measurement would not include a removable external choke. The CETME Mauser has '7mm' on it which is '7mm Mauser' or '7x57mm'. If the rifle has a good bore, it possibly could make a nice sporter in a nice stock, but probably not worth it. The Model 11 forearm; I would fix that crack with Super Glue, the thin, watery kind, like Loctite brand. Working from the inside, hold it vertical and carefully introduce the SG starting about the middle of the crack and let it 'wick' down the crack, eventually filling it. You continue to apply it for a few minutes until it reaches a point of refusal. It will soak into the wood as it goes, creating a strong joint, but you have to keep replacing it until it stops soaking in. Once you get that done, you can move up to the wide part but you want to have a clamp ready with pine buffers so you can put a little pressure on it to close that gap some after the first application in that section. Then you can continue as with the lower section. Leave it clamped for 24 hours, then it should be 'bulletproof'. Use Acetone to remove excess glue if needed. View Quote When I was taking the pictures of the Model 11, I noticed it looked short too. I stopped measuring it when I got to 20 inches; I think the barrel length is 22in with the adjustable choke collar on. |
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[#32]
Great! Glad to hear it. I think you got a couple of lemons but mostly solid guns that you can use!
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[Last Edit: delemorte]
[#33]
Neat. That choke looks like a polychoke or something like it. Yea it just twists to constrict.
ETA. Beat a long time ago. Cool old guns though. |
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“I was always willing to be reasonable until I had to be unreasonable. Sometimes reasonable men must do unreasonable things.”
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I suggest we trade a question mark in for a maybe.
IA, USA
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[#34]
Originally Posted By delemorte: Neat. That choke looks like a polychoke or something like it. Yea it just twists to constrict. ETA. Beat a long time ago. Cool old guns though. View Quote Exactly the 11 I've been wanting for a whippet build. Common variation, already modified so no collectability to ruin but very usable. Too bad it's not for sale. All the 11s I've been seeing here lately have either been uncommon variations or very nice shape. |
WARNING-this post contains words or thoughts that may at some point be discovered by the state of California to cause cancer.
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[#35]
Neat thread. Cool guns.
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_______________________________________________________
*** NRA Endowment Life Member *** VCDL Member *** TN Squire *** |
[#36]
I wouldn't do much cleaning up of anything beside maybe some evaporust or something on the 2510. Rest just give em a good rub down with a light oil and fix or replace any broken shit. I probably wouldn't even bother fixing much of anything personally. Stick an unsafe do not fire flag in the really fucked ones unless you are just dying to shoot em.
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[#37]
The J.P saure & sons is about 450 to 650 possibly a bit more when they pop up on GB.
The 44 mag was my 1st hand gun @ 17 sold it ehen I wad 33 Will have a zinc ejection rod/push lever these break under heavy recoil no idea if the 357 has enough recoil to get it to break. Mine broke off just flopped onto the ground from recoil after about 5 years of shooting. Got one made of steel ended that problem How is the trigger? My 44 was so light you could smack the bottom of the grip while cocked and it would fire. Made it super accurate but also not safe for anyone else. Was a excellent SAA clone they are real work horses meant to be shot. Mine ate every brand of ammo and the hottest reloads I could load. Never had a problem ejecting they just popped right out. Hoping to find another one one day. |
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[#38]
Originally Posted By OTHP: The J.P saure & sons is about 450 to 650 possibly a bit more when they pop up on GB. The 44 mag was my 1st hand gun @ 17 sold it ehen I wad 33 Will have a zinc ejection rod/push lever these break under heavy recoil no idea if the 357 has enough recoil to get it to break. Mine broke off just flopped onto the ground from recoil after about 5 years of shooting. Got one made of steel ended that problem How is the trigger? My 44 was so light you could smack the bottom of the grip while cocked and it would fire. Made it super accurate but also not safe for anyone else. Was a excellent SAA clone they are real work horses meant to be shot. Mine ate every brand of ammo and the hottest reloads I could load. Never had a problem ejecting they just popped right out. Hoping to find another one one day. View Quote The trigger is good! It's light but not so light that smacking the grip will cause it to fire. Untitled by Frisky Dillo, on Flickr |
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