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IN, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:51:06 AM EDT
[#1]
1. What engine oil would you recommend for farm tractors and trucks? Real ones, over 300 hp.
2. What is your opinion on CNH's Hy Tran? |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:52:53 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By j-dubya1: Power Service has always been recommended for 2nd gen Cummins 24v with the VP44 pump. Even though inadequate fuel pressure from the lift pump is primarily the cause of VP44 failure, Power Service allegedly adds necessary lubricity to the fuel, as the fuel cools the VP44. This became particularly important once ULSD came out. Any truth or confirmation to Power Service boosting the fuel’s “lubricity”? I’ve been pouring a couple of glugs into nearly every tank for 20 years of owning the truck. Thanks. I wrenched at FedEx for ~30 years. I've changed more VP44's than I care to think about. That said...one of the best things we did was to install a Hobbs pressure switch between the lift pump and the VP44. I think it was a 5LB (10LB?) rated switch. The switch was wired to illuminate a light we installed on the dash if the lift pump quit while the truck was running. We told the drivers to write up the truck if the light was illuminated and we'd replace the lift pump. While I replaced a ton of lift pumps, the VP44 failures pretty much ended. Nope...still don't miss it..... |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:55:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Citgo Citguard 700 off the top of my head is what I would use, looking for something off the shelf. After that, Chevron Dell SDE 400. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Never_A_Wick: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Yes. I mean the biggest issue with any Rotella is that it foams. Foaming leads to oxidation. Oxidation leads to varnish and also shearing. You can go back now close to 2 decades of posting I've done on here and see that I've said that same exact thing. He did a video at HPL's lab a few weeks ago. Also the guy who owns HPL is legit. Nice guy. Went out of his way to visit me even though we don't directly do business. What specifically do you recommend as an alternative to Rotella for light and medium duty diesels? Something that doesn't foam would be a plus  Citgo Citguard 700 off the top of my head is what I would use, looking for something off the shelf. After that, Chevron Dell SDE 400. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:08:16 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DamnYank: Raises a couple questions from me... Audi S4 with the 3L supercharged motor, mild tune. I don't flog it hard regularly but it gets a sensible workout. Have been running Kirkland's full syn 5-30. Only sees ~5k miles a year, worth switching to RL Euro? E46 M3 straight 6, I drive it like an asshole  calls for 10-60, have been using Liqui Moly, any change recommendation there?Thanks! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DamnYank: Originally Posted By slater2111: @Foxtrot08 he’s the reason I changed from Amsoil SS to Redline Euro in my tuned Ecoboost as well. He talks I listen. Raises a couple questions from me... Audi S4 with the 3L supercharged motor, mild tune. I don't flog it hard regularly but it gets a sensible workout. Have been running Kirkland's full syn 5-30. Only sees ~5k miles a year, worth switching to RL Euro? E46 M3 straight 6, I drive it like an asshole calls for 10-60, have been using Liqui Moly, any change recommendation there?Thanks! It’s worth using a Euro oil. I again, don’t have any strong feelings on normal oil brands. From Mobil 1 to liquid moly, to Pennzoil to Valvoline, use what’s available to you at your price point. I use redline because it’s free to me and in my opinion, probably one of the best oils you can buy for high performance applications. But not needed for every day use. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:10:11 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexCorriente: Any opinion on Pennzoil Platinum, 5W30? Or Ultra Platinum? I'm tracking for 45 to 50k a year on my 2023 F-150 5.0., mostly highway miles. I try to keep my vehicles for 5 years, and am really enjoying this truck. So longevity is my main concern. I've had good luck coupon stacking on it the PZ Platinum, and my wife's Navigator also takes it. Redline might just be too expensive, unless there is a case for higher mileage on the motor. Open to others. The info in the video about different make oil formulas having negative interactions even without additives got my attention Thanks!. We switched from a conventional oil in our Sprinters to Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec (5W30)at FedEx. We were blowing up the Sprinters turbos on a pretty regular basis. The turbo failures ended within a few months of the change Euro Spec. I'm a huge fan of it. Oh...and we went to a 25 thousand mile oil change interval !!!! |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:10:31 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Discblade: 1. What engine oil would you recommend for farm tractors and trucks? Real ones, over 300 hp. 2. What is your opinion on CNH's Hy Tran? I mean, I sell Kendall DXA 15w40 and Citgo C700 15w40 guys putting it in D11’s, PC1200’s, 395’s, 777’s, etc. So yeah. CNH Hy tran isn’t anything special. Another J20C clone. Use a good tractor fluid. I like Kendall 052+ because of the higher V.I. and the anti chatter. Plus it meets super UDT2. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:10:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: perfectsilence]
[#7]
Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be?
I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated  |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:14:35 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lug1: What happened to muh Kendall DXA? Is it no longer the go to? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lug1: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Never_A_Wick: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Yes. I mean the biggest issue with any Rotella is that it foams. Foaming leads to oxidation. Oxidation leads to varnish and also shearing. You can go back now close to 2 decades of posting I've done on here and see that I've said that same exact thing. He did a video at HPL's lab a few weeks ago. Also the guy who owns HPL is legit. Nice guy. Went out of his way to visit me even though we don't directly do business. What specifically do you recommend as an alternative to Rotella for light and medium duty diesels? Something that doesn't foam would be a plus Citgo Citguard 700 off the top of my head is what I would use, looking for something off the shelf. After that, Chevron Dell SDE 400. Unless you have a Kendall distributor close, it’s going to be hard to get. P66 has reduced their foot print on the retail side of the world significantly since Covid. They lost their placement at several truck stops and parts stores. Why? No idea. Currently they sorta have their head up their ass with everyone retiring. I’m on my 4th CSR in 5 years. His boss is retiring next year. His boss’s boss is retiring in a few months. Both P66 and Kendall’s brand managers (who get it out in retail foot print) retired in the last 2 years and have yet to be replaced. So hard to recommend something that’s just hard to get. Plus they played around with the formulation sometime in the last 16 months. So I’ve been testing a few things in my own fleet to draw some conclusions through data vs speculation. And they lost the exclusive distribution to S-Oil group 3s. Which I think lead to some formulation changes. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:21:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TexCorriente]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cobradriver: We switched from a conventional oil in our Sprinters to Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec (5W30)at FedEx. We were blowing up the Sprinters turbos on a pretty regular basis. The turbo failures ended within a few months of the change Euro Spec. I'm a huge fan of it. Oh...and we went to a 25 thousand mile oil change interval !!!! whoa... I've never heard of an interval like that (other than some girls I've known that weren't aware of Oil Changes). Wife's care is a 2019 Navigator with the twin turbo 3.5EB, with 103,000 miles. How many miles did y'all keep Sprinters for? EDIT: Between my household personal vehicles and a few work trucks all taking 5w-30, I can probably justify a barrel. We also have an interest in an oil change place, but it stays too busy for me to get my vehicles in. Might be able to buy through it. So now I'm getting carried away with pricing a barrel of full synthetic. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:29:42 AM EDT
[#10]
If you live a desert climate is there any advantage of running 10w30 over 5w30?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:31:05 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Never_A_Wick: What specifically do you recommend as an alternative to Rotella for light and medium duty diesels? Something that doesn’t foam would be a plus In my heavy truck and ag engines I switched from T5 to chevron delo. Oil consumption was cut in half amd wear metals decreased significantly too. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:41:33 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexCorriente: whoa... I've never heard of an interval like that (other than some girls I've known that weren't aware of Oil Changes). Wife's care is a 2019 Navigator with the twin turbo 3.5EB, with 103,000 miles. How many miles did y'all keep Sprinters for? EDIT: Between my household personal vehicles and a few work trucks all taking 5w-30, I can probably justify a barrel. We also have an interest in an oil change place, but it stays too busy for me to get my vehicles in. Might be able to buy through it. So now I'm getting carried away with pricing a barrel of full synthetic. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexCorriente: Originally Posted By Cobradriver: We switched from a conventional oil in our Sprinters to Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec (5W30)at FedEx. We were blowing up the Sprinters turbos on a pretty regular basis. The turbo failures ended within a few months of the change Euro Spec. I'm a huge fan of it. Oh...and we went to a 25 thousand mile oil change interval !!!! whoa... I've never heard of an interval like that (other than some girls I've known that weren't aware of Oil Changes). Wife's care is a 2019 Navigator with the twin turbo 3.5EB, with 103,000 miles. How many miles did y'all keep Sprinters for? EDIT: Between my household personal vehicles and a few work trucks all taking 5w-30, I can probably justify a barrel. We also have an interest in an oil change place, but it stays too busy for me to get my vehicles in. Might be able to buy through it. So now I'm getting carried away with pricing a barrel of full synthetic. Just call up your local oil distributors. Pick a brand. Find a distributor for said brand on that brands website. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:52:53 AM EDT
[#13]
Hmm, this video may ruffle some additive feathers. I for one am glad foxtrot uses lube when he deciees to go in hard. Industry approved, top of the line lube at that.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:52:56 AM EDT
[#14]
Any opinions on ATF additives that claim to help hard shifting and slipping?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:56:08 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Just call up your local oil distributors. Pick a brand. Find a distributor for said brand on that brands website. As usual, more straightforward and uncomplicated than I make things. Thanks! |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 11:58:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Cobradriver]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexCorriente: whoa... I've never heard of an interval like that (other than some girls I've known that weren't aware of Oil Changes). Wife's care is a 2019 Navigator with the twin turbo 3.5EB, with 103,000 miles. How many miles did y'all keep Sprinters for? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TexCorriente: Originally Posted By Cobradriver: We switched from a conventional oil in our Sprinters to Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec (5W30)at FedEx. We were blowing up the Sprinters turbos on a pretty regular basis. The turbo failures ended within a few months of the change Euro Spec. I'm a huge fan of it. Oh...and we went to a 25 thousand mile oil change interval !!!! whoa... I've never heard of an interval like that (other than some girls I've known that weren't aware of Oil Changes). Wife's care is a 2019 Navigator with the twin turbo 3.5EB, with 103,000 miles. How many miles did y'all keep Sprinters for? Until they were no longer fixable ??? Seriously. We were doing engines at 250-300K miles. The light duty diesel engines were just flat wore out by that point. The later 4 cylinder turbos were going 500K. On my personal junk I just change it once a year or 10K miles. I was just inside my 2007 Trailblazer with 180K on it. It has the inline 6. I tow a 16' open trailer on a regular basis. The inside of the engine was spotless. I had to replace the stupid Oring on the oil pump pickup tube... ETA...the 250-300K was put on in 5 or 6 years. I talked to a coworker a few weeks ago and they are still running 15+ year old trucks going on their third engine.... |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 12:00:36 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HunterRose13: Any opinions on ATF additives that claim to help hard shifting and slipping? Don’t do it. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 12:07:19 PM EDT
[#18]
@Foxtrot08
What about seal swelling additives like ATP AT-205? They are supposedly just an ester. Is there any potential for that to clash with typical base oils or additive packages? I haven't had a use for them yet, but I'm curious if they are worth bothering with. I suppose an alternative is the various "high mileage" oils that supposedly include a similar additive in them. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 12:12:04 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Don’t do it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By HunterRose13: Any opinions on ATF additives that claim to help hard shifting and slipping? Don’t do it. Thanks. I figured nothing good would come of that. Do you dabble in 2 stroke oils also? |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:32:56 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HunterRose13: Thanks. I figured nothing good would come of that. Do you dabble in 2 stroke oils also? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HunterRose13: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By HunterRose13: Any opinions on ATF additives that claim to help hard shifting and slipping? Don’t do it. Thanks. I figured nothing good would come of that. Do you dabble in 2 stroke oils also? I know the fundamentals of it. But don’t ask me about brand to brand. As I don’t pay attention to that market in the slightest right now. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:36:00 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: @Foxtrot08 What about seal swelling additives like ATP AT-205? They are supposedly just an ester. Is there any potential for that to clash with typical base oils or additive packages? I haven't had a use for them yet, but I'm curious if they are worth bothering with. I suppose an alternative is the various "high mileage" oils that supposedly include a similar additive in them. High mileage oils are a weird one to me. And high mileage additives. I had this conversation about two years ago or maybe more with a P66 product manager. They released a high mileage additive. And I asked him “why would you add this to full synthetic?” He didn’t have a good answer for me and shook his head. If you’re not running the cheapest brand of oil possible, I’m not a gigantic believer in the need for seal swell additives and/or high mileage additives. Full synthetics basically… have it covered? After that it’s just marketing. Can it cause additive interferences? Yes. Absolutely. Do I think they would be catastrophic? No. Do I think it causes money to leave your wallet with great results? Also yes. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:48:03 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:01:34 PM EDT
[#23]
Foxtrot.
I've got a 21 Camaro with the 6.2 It seems the oil requirement was originally 5/30 dex 2 to what my model now requires which is 0/40 dex 2. Not euro according to the forums. I'm using the 0/40 but it's really hard to find. Why did GM change it and what is the difference? Thanks |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:02:30 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StarCityShooter: @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:03:14 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Two stroke or four stroke? First question. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By kingfish: I’ve just purchased a wave runner and it calls for a special marine oil because of higher revs (casually cruising at 5k) in a marine environment Is there a big difference with auto oils? If so, what? Two stroke or four stroke? First question. Dang! 4 stroke |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:06:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By catrepair: Foxtrot. I've got a 21 Camaro with the 6.2 It seems the oil requirement was originally 5/30 dex 2 to what my model now requires which is 0/40 dex 2. Not euro according to the forums. I'm using the 0/40 but it's really hard to find. Why did GM change it and what is the difference? Thanks Typically they do this random up tick in viscosity because of cooling issues. Probably in testing they discovered that the cooling system in the vehicle can’t keep up with track use, or just over time fades - aeration in coolant will happen as additive pack in it fails. This leads to it just not having enough cooling capacity for the oil. So the German way to combat this is to just increase oil viscosity. Which is why Euro cars are famous for their 5w50’s and 10w60’s. A lot still call for a 5w40 or a 0w40. Castrol and Mobil have the only two active licenses from GM for that product as far as I know. But they could be the only ones wanting to pay for that license as well. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:11:22 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kingfish: Dang! 4 stroke Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kingfish: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By kingfish: I’ve just purchased a wave runner and it calls for a special marine oil because of higher revs (casually cruising at 5k) in a marine environment Is there a big difference with auto oils? If so, what? Two stroke or four stroke? First question. Dang! 4 stroke Had to ask. My parents have a two stroke one. And I’d of looked like a tool giving advice and you’d of said “oh yeah it’s a four stroke.” The NMMA FC-W test is simply a 100 hour test stand test for marine engines. Nothing major. It’s pass / fail, pay a licensing fee. Certifies the oil can last 100 hours in a marine test engine. Which, any full synthetic can do. The FC-W(CAT) is the same just with lower zinc content for emissions equipment. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:11:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. Thanks!  Any thoughts on the higher frequency oil changes for the 3.5 like the guy I quoted mentioned? |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:13:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StarCityShooter: Thanks! Any thoughts on the higher frequency oil changes for the 3.5 like the guy I quoted mentioned? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. Thanks! Any thoughts on the higher frequency oil changes for the 3.5 like the guy I quoted mentioned? I’ve seen no reason to. I went 7500-8000 miles on the Kendall max without any issue in the 2015. Oil analysis showed no major fuel dilution, etc. Only thing oily related that’s been replaced, the oil lines to the turbo were changed about 10,000 miles ago on the truck. They started leaking pretty good. I guess the fitting on that era is prone to salt corrosion. So nothing the oil did (or didn’t do). |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:14:53 PM EDT
[#30]
Toyota dealer sells toyota brand 0w20, parts guys says it is the same as mobil 1? Would i be better off just buying mobil 1 from walmart?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:16:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By boomhower: Toyota dealer sells toyota brand 0w20, parts guys says it is the same as mobil 1? Would i be better off just buying mobil 1 from walmart? It’s like… Mobil 1 lite. It’s closer to the Mobil Super line of product. Which is their “fleet” full synthetic. This is what they’ll sell to quick lubes and such that sell a “Mobil full synthetic oil change” for $99.99. It’s probably not Mobil 1. It’s Mobil super. Similar, but not as good. So… yes? Mobil 1 would be statistically better. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:19:36 PM EDT
[#32]
Topic rated Epic
Thank you @Foxtrot08 I have a 2023 X5M [hot V biturbo] and had been researching which oil to use for some time, (I want to keep this for a long time, last non-hybrid) and had some time ago decided on Redline Euro 5W30 as I drive it like it was designed to be driven. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:23:49 PM EDT
[#33]
I've always subscribed to the idea with regards to potions and lotions for your car, if the manufacturer does not recommend that product, then you probably don't need it.
Just service your shit regularly according to the manufacturer's intervals. Use the fluids they specify, use the filters they specify. Drive and be happy. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:34:28 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. I know this much about Ford phasers and oil is that Quaker State full synthetic is noisy. The euro stuff probably makes is quiter. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:38:12 PM EDT
[#35]
Is lubrication engineer a ABET practice?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:44:18 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mortgage_Payer: Is lubrication engineer a ABET practice? Industry driven. By STLE. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:10:45 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Typically they do this random up tick in viscosity because of cooling issues. Probably in testing they discovered that the cooling system in the vehicle can’t keep up with track use, or just over time fades - aeration in coolant will happen as additive pack in it fails. This leads to it just not having enough cooling capacity for the oil. So the German way to combat this is to just increase oil viscosity. Which is why Euro cars are famous for their 5w50’s and 10w60’s. A lot still call for a 5w40 or a 0w40. Castrol and Mobil have the only two active licenses from GM for that product as far as I know. But they could be the only ones wanting to pay for that license as well. Thank you. Makes sense. Its a 1LE |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:29:49 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: I’ve seen no reason to. I went 7500-8000 miles on the Kendall max without any issue in the 2015. Oil analysis showed no major fuel dilution, etc. Only thing oily related that’s been replaced, the oil lines to the turbo were changed about 10,000 miles ago on the truck. They started leaking pretty good. I guess the fitting on that era is prone to salt corrosion. So nothing the oil did (or didn’t do). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: Originally Posted By perfectsilence: Mr Fox, I have a ‘23 F-150 with the 3.5. It’s not tuned and I have no plans to do so. As I’m sure you know, everyone online talks about how oil change internals need to be pretty short on these motors due to fuel dilution, turbo heat, etc. I bought it new and have about 10k miles on it. IIRC you have a raptor with the HO 3.5 and run Redline in it, although you get it for free. If you didn’t, what would your oil choice and oil change plan be? I’ve been using Motorcraft synth blend and changing around 3500-4000 because I bought a bunch of it around the time of purchase. Recently changed with Mobil 1 which is what’s in there now. I am fine changing it frequently and I am fine changing it less frequently, doesn’t make much difference to me, as long as I’m doing whatever is best for this particular engine. I want to keep the truck for a very long time. Your patience in answering the same 3 questions over and over again is always appreciated @Foxtrot08 back to this one since I have the 3.5 EB in my 2019 F150 as well A major brand full synthetic. Again, I would personally run a euro product. If I had to chose off the shelf: Euro: Mobil 1 European car formula Pennzoil Euro Kendall Euro Non euro: Any major brand full synthetic is also more than enough. Before redline, I ran Kendall Max 5w30 - which is their full synthetic. My 2015 F150 has 160,000 miles on it. Still in my fleet. It’s been fed a version of that, its entire career with me. Thanks! Any thoughts on the higher frequency oil changes for the 3.5 like the guy I quoted mentioned? I’ve seen no reason to. I went 7500-8000 miles on the Kendall max without any issue in the 2015. Oil analysis showed no major fuel dilution, etc. Only thing oily related that’s been replaced, the oil lines to the turbo were changed about 10,000 miles ago on the truck. They started leaking pretty good. I guess the fitting on that era is prone to salt corrosion. So nothing the oil did (or didn’t do). Thanks fellas
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:50:33 PM EDT
[#39]
What do you think is happening when someone uses an additive and a noise in eliminated? Just thicker viscosity?
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USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:03:08 PM EDT
[#40]
Ok i'll ask a question too.
67 camaro Fully rebuilt 350 engine with a little less than 1000 miles. ~450 hp Solid tappet lifters/cam. The cam and lifters is at least 30 years old. Took me forever to get it on the road, the cam/lifters came with the car but was never used. 4.11 gears so cruises around 2800-3000 rpm. Everything on the car is new including cooling systems What brand/type of oil would you recommend? |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:10:45 PM EDT
[#41]
@Foxtrot08 What is wrong with hexagonal boron nitride? AKA Ceratec.
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Posted: 5/14/2024 4:18:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SWIRE]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Don't do it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By HunterRose13: Any opinions on ATF additives that claim to help hard shifting and slipping? Don't do it. My Yukon developed the torque converter clutch shudder problem and fresh fluid didn't help. I added Shudder Fixx to it and that reduced the problem by 80%. Of course it is only stop gap measure to buy time until I can get the transmission fixed but Shudder Fixx absolutely did help me get another 10,000 miles before the effects started to wear off. I did another fluid exchange and 2 tubes of Shudder Fix and it reduced the problem again. The fluid did come out brown after 10,000 miles so obviously there is a mechanical problem and it is just a matter of time it fails completely. I wouldn't use any additive like this unless it is obvious the transmissions is going to need to be replaced in the near future and you want to buy a little more time. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:01:11 PM EDT
[#43]
If you wanted to clean out the internals of an engine crank case that hasn’t had an oil change in waaaaaay tooooo long. What would you do? It wasn’t destroyed but the oil was very black and clearly left deposits.
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:40:55 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NachoDip: If you wanted to clean out the internals of an engine crank case that hasn’t had an oil change in waaaaaay tooooo long. What would you do? It wasn’t destroyed but the oil was very black and clearly left deposits. The You Tube videos of BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit are amazing but it is pricy. I bought a kit to use but ended up cutting my losses before I used it. I still have the kit sitting on the shelf waiting to be used some time in the future. Most of the Amazon reviews are favorable. I'd be curious what Foxtrot08 thinks about it.  
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USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:57:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: The You Tube videos of BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit are amazing but it is pricy. I bought a kit to use but ended up cutting my losses before I used it. I still have the kit sitting on the shelf waiting to be used some time in the future. Most of the Amazon reviews are favorable. I'd be curious what Foxtrot08 thinks about it. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4Z2J16B first post of this thread says don't add anything to your oil |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 6:09:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DamascusKnifemaker]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By captblue1: first post of this thread says don't add anything to your oil The engines this stuff is going onto HAVE NOT HAD regular oil changes hence the SLUDGE build up. The car I was going to use this on had a majority of the oil passages plugged. When I pulled the valve covers there was a 1/4 thick layer of sludge on everything. Under the timing chain cover was just as bad. Oil sludge drained from the crank case when I pulled the drain plug. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/14/2024 6:44:19 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: The engines this stuff is going onto HAVE NOT HAD regular oil changes hence the SLUDGE build up. The car I was going to use this on had a majority of the oil passages plugged. When I pulled the valve covers there was a 1/4 thick layer of sludge on everything. Under the timing chain cover was just as bad. Oil sludge drained from the crank case when I pulled the drain plug. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: Originally Posted By captblue1: first post of this thread says don't add anything to your oil The engines this stuff is going onto HAVE NOT HAD regular oil changes hence the SLUDGE build up. The car I was going to use this on had a majority of the oil passages plugged. When I pulled the valve covers there was a 1/4 thick layer of sludge on everything. Under the timing chain cover was just as bad. Oil sludge drained from the crank case when I pulled the drain plug. Wouldn't a new filter and new oil start cleaning that up on its own? If anything is clogged to the point bearings have already been starved of oil, the engine is already on its way out even if you wave a magic wand and instantly make it squeeky clean. I think your biggest threat now assuming it isn't already a time bomb is chunks coming loose and clogging stuff up, so maybe a slower cleaning process from just new oil is the safest bet? Maybe keep an eye on the dipstick and do more frequent oil/filter changes when it darkens? |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 6:47:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Johnny_Utah_88]
[#48]
I use Pennzoil Ultra platinum 0 W 40 in my 392 Hemi. Do you think Red Line would be a better oil?
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:08:17 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By castlebravo84: Wouldn't a new filter and new oil start cleaning that up on its own? If anything is clogged to the point bearings have already been starved of oil, the engine is already on its way out even if you wave a magic wand and instantly make it squeeky clean. I think your biggest threat now assuming it isn't already a time bomb is chunks coming loose and clogging stuff up, so maybe a slower cleaning process from just new oil is the safest bet? Maybe keep an eye on the dipstick and do more frequent oil/filter changes when it darkens? In my case an engine swap was not cost effective. The car would have been worth about 4k in good running condition. A replacement engine was going to be between 6 and 8k. There were a bunch of problems with the lifter oil passages being plugged causing codes with the cam phasers. My objective was to try to use the BG stuff to unclog the oil passages and try to get 10 or 15k miles out of the thing until a better car could be located for a family member. The deeper I got into the thing the more problems were found and I cut my losses before I used the flush kit. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 7:25:32 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Alright... I'm actually going to make an oil thread on GD for this one.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScENow, Lake Speed Jr. does get kind of long winded in this video, at nearly 30 minutes long. And does get a bit technical with the used oil analysis. But, we share the same credentials, being we are both CLS or 'lubricant engineers' so to speak. I come from the distributor / marketer side of the world, primarily focused on industrial lubricants. Lake Speed Jr. comes from the racing world and now is more into engine building for racing applications. Very different sides of the industry, however the fundamentals stay the same. For a TL;DR of this video and what I've said for years (decades now?) on Arfcom: Only fuel additives that work are PEA based, more specifically Amine based fuel additives as they give a level of detergent to the fuel. Don't add anything to your engine oil. Seriously. Just fucking don't. It's all various levels of bad. Don't use MMO, don't use seafoam, don't use ZDDP additives, don't use super nano friction reducer. Just don't use it. You're going to do more harm than good. Following his channel and his stuff over at the total seal channel too. Good stuff! |
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