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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:08:17 PM EDT
With one of these? Wouldn't it show a good charge once connected to the AC line if the system is charged?
I am trying to trouble shoot why I do not have any cool air blowing.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:09:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Verify your compressor is kicking on first.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:10:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Usually I just turn on the AC. If it blows cold you’re GTG.
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:10:47 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KillerDyller: Verify your compressor is kicking on first. It may not if system is low on refrigerate,low pressure switch and all |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:13:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Yes. Connect in appropriate place, set AC per the directions and verify the pressure range is correct. If pressure range is correct and compressor is cycling, then you have a blending issue. If pressure range is correct initially but goes zero when the compressor cycles on you have a clog, most likely an orifice tube. If pressure is low add freon until compressor begins to cycle appropriately
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:19:24 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By artburg: It may not if system is low on refrigerate,low pressure switch and all Correct. But also can be clutch, coil, faulty pressure switch(s), relay, etc. AC is a bitch to diagnose. I am also just a shade tree mech DIY dude. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:22:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JackRebney]
[#6]
Kinda.
But for the love of god, do not use a product that contains stop-leak. Better off with a set of manifold gauges. They aren't very expensive. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:34:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JimEb: Usually I just turn on the AC. If it blows cold you’re GTG. Listen to the experts OP. 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:36:14 PM EDT
[#8]
Listen to the folks above and also get a proper set of gauges. Non pro grade ones aren't that expensive.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:44:12 PM EDT
[#9]
If there is refrigerant in the system it should show static pressure when the compressor is not engaged. Gauge should read 80 - 100PSI depending on outside temp. If gauge reads 0 all of your refrigerant has leaked out. You will have to fix the leak then evacuate with a vacuum pump then recharge.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:49:52 PM EDT
[#10]
The tools you need to do this work can be sourced from a pawn shop or Harbor freight for ~ $150. You need a gauge set and vacuum pump to recharge your system. Also, kitchen scale will come in handy to measure the charge.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:53:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jafco: The tools you need to do this work can be sourced from a pawn shop or Harbor freight for ~ $150. You need a gauge set and vacuum pump to recharge your system. Also, kitchen scale will come in handy to measure the charge. HF even sells a scale. Watch out using a kitchen one. They like to make those out of glass. I have dropped and broken my fair share of glass scales while doing AC work. the one from HF is plastic. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:56:46 PM EDT
[#12]
Get a gauge set. Or rent one. The cans with the “gauge” are usually much more expensive than a regular can of refrigerant, so if you end up needing to add refrigerant you will be saving money just buying the plain jane can anyways.
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:57:58 PM EDT
[#13]
I am trying to do it ghetto style
 Thanks for the help guys. Car is only five YO so thinking its the condenser or something other than pressure issue. PSA Do not run your climate system without the cabin filter in place. At least in KIA Hyundais, bad things happen. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:58:51 PM EDT
[#14]
Should work. Just don't pull the trigger if you don't have a can or block screwed on. Don't screw on a can unless you intend to use it soon. A set of manifold gages would be much better.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 1:01:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Get a good set of manifold gauges, then read good sources about auto AC. Don't just watch some jackleg on Youtube who brags about how easy it is and how "the professionals" just do what the do to add up time and screw you. I'm not saying there aren't probably useful videos on there, but that place is full of dopes who put up garbage and lead you to skip half of what you should do to professionally diagnose and repair an issue.
A very basic evacuation system that will work for home or auto can be had for under $1k, which with gauges, a refrigerant scale (under $100), a tank, a flush can, and basic hand tools, will allow you to repair/replace your entire AC system. If you do it once, the tools will cost about what the labor would run. Every vehicle after that will be a major savings, and when compressors grenade, replacement of the whole system is often the answer. |
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NM, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 1:02:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Got a set of manifold gauges a couple years ago. Handy watching both sides, and relative the cost of a trip to the shop, not bad at all. Small cans of refrigerant are cheap and easy to add if you ever need to top off.
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USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:11:10 PM EDT
[#17]
$9 from Amazon
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:21:35 PM EDT
[#18]
You get much better information if you have a gauge set that measures the high and low side. I've gotten away with low-side only fill checks until I did my Mazda. Very sensitive to over and underfill.
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:26:26 PM EDT
[#19]
Thanks guys
I learned on a honda civic years ago that when it comes to recharging w freon a little dab will do ya. I am still thinking the evap/condenser got clogged with the cabin air filter missing for as long as it was. I think the cold air slowly died down over the course of a few weeks after it was removed. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:29:26 PM EDT
[#20]
1- Go to Advance/AutoZone/O'Reilly, borrow gauges and vacuum pump...
2- Open YouTube, learn how to use...(watch more than one, the first three probably know less than you do)... |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:31:54 PM EDT
[#21]
AC not working? Check the capacitor...
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:33:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Karankawa]
[#22]
You need to know the pressure differential between the high and low side. It’s not hard to understand at all. Just spend a couple hours watching YouTube about it. I aced the certification exam and I’m a tard.
Really loved a couple old Chevy trucks we had so I learned how to do the work, how to retrofit a sanden type compressor and make my own custom lines to make it affordable. Now we just drive Toyotas. None have ever needed any A/C work at all. Not even a recharge. One is a 2000 with the original refrigerant still blowing cold. Not as painfully cold as it used to be so I might check it this year. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:33:33 PM EDT
[#23]
I put this list together based on talking to several mechanics I know. It covers the most common scenarios that you will likely run across. It requires a set of manifold gauges.
Auto AC Troubleshooting Normal pressure: Low – 30-45, High – 225-250 Scenarios Low pressure = High pressure when engine stopped – OK, no obstructions Low pressure = High pressure with compressor running – Bad compressor Low pressure <30, High pressure <200 = low freon charge Low pressure <30, High pressure >250 = clogged expansion valve or orifice tube Low pressure >125, High pressure >250 = faulty expansion valve or orifice tube Low pressure >60, High pressure 225-250 = high freon charge |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:59:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 94TBlazer: $9 from Amazon https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71iENRlGm5L._AC_SL1500_.jpg I have purged and charged 4 systems and did one compressor change. I also had to regularly charge the company car if I wanted to actually use the AC. Use the right tools.  |
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