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Posted: 12/7/2012 5:12:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
Originally Posted By _Iceman_:
To the poster who said you intended to cut down a RIS II to build a GL/SSC Clone. Please consider first the integrity of the rail system. The front ring on the RIS II serves a purpose. This purpose being to provide added and needed support and structure. I'm no engineer, but I am quite sure that our engineers designed it that way for a reason. If you cut off the front I am sure that the thing would not explode, but it surely wouldn't look right. Final thought: If you were to not heed my warning and decide to go through with your horrible plan- you would want to cut the rail just behind the second piece of rail from the front. (The one that says "Front sight here") Happy chopping, dont say I didnt warn you. I have an easy solution to this issue. Make a small run of glssc's for us pllleeeaaaassseeee. Seriously, Though. +1 How about just for everyone in this thread? That would be so cool. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2012 5:20:58 PM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By JShepard:
Originally Posted By Will816:
Show us a pic of the rifle  Sorry it took a while to get some pics. Personal rifle from the above video: http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/5d.jpg http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/6d.jpg Work M4. I've ditched the vertical grip since the photo was taken. http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/1d.jpg http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/8d.jpg http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/3d.jpg And my box of goodies. The extra cans are assigned to others and got put in my box for simplicity. http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/y322/_MacGyver-/7d.jpg Your issued can Black painted tan or is it a Tan issued? |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2012 5:22:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By thesocialistnetwork:
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
Originally Posted By _Iceman_:
To the poster who said you intended to cut down a RIS II to build a GL/SSC Clone. Please consider first the integrity of the rail system. The front ring on the RIS II serves a purpose. This purpose being to provide added and needed support and structure. I'm no engineer, but I am quite sure that our engineers designed it that way for a reason. If you cut off the front I am sure that the thing would not explode, but it surely wouldn't look right. Final thought: If you were to not heed my warning and decide to go through with your horrible plan- you would want to cut the rail just behind the second piece of rail from the front. (The one that says "Front sight here") Happy chopping, dont say I didnt warn you. I have an easy solution to this issue. Make a small run of glssc's for us pllleeeaaaassseeee. Seriously, Though. +1 How about just for everyone in this thread? That would be so cool. Dunno what I'd do with one, but I guess that means I'd have to build a 12.5" upper? |
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Posted: 12/7/2012 5:38:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: staraero]
[#4]
I'd be in for one of the rails. If i was going to cut one down i'd strip it cut farther down and reweld be a pita. I'd rather pay 40/50% more for a factory one.
I'd take one of each types of rails, forgot there are 2 |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2012 9:47:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JShepard]
[#5]
The KAC 200-600m BUIS came off a Mk12 SPR that got turned in.
My can is painted, I'm pretty sure they were all black originally. I would also be in for a GL/SSC rail, or two. |
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Posted: 12/7/2012 10:23:03 PM EDT
[#6]
I'd buy a GL/SSC rail as well.
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Posted: 12/7/2012 11:52:13 PM EDT
[#7]
+1
I would also buy one as well - in a heartbeat. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 12/8/2012 12:37:36 AM EDT
[#8]
I'd buy one.
But I know it's not going to happen... |
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Posted: 12/8/2012 1:58:31 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Rob123456789:
Originally Posted By scoutfsu99:
Originally Posted By kbi:
Thats what I didnt want to hear (whahahaha) Ive been looking at a FH556-215A for $65.00 but if it tune's it'll be annoying so I guess I gotta ante up for the 212 then for my socom barrel or just do a extended A2 where are you finding that for $65? This, do tell! This was the ad number at gunbroker.com #318944390 I never did get around to getting one & the guy hasnt responded to my e-mails inquiring if theyre still available so I still with no flash hider |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 2:23:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rippleadder]
[#10]
What buffer weights you guys using? I'll be running a FA BCG and BCM socom barrel 14.5 carbine gas system. I was thinking H or H2 maybe I should just buy all three but would look to save the headache.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 2:43:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
What buffer weights you guys using? I'll be running a FA BCG and BCM socom barrel 14.5 carbine gas system. I was thinking H or H2 maybe I should just buy all three but would look to save the headache. Using a BCM H2 myself, been 100% reliable. |
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Posted: 12/8/2012 2:57:16 PM EDT
[#12]
H2 is the "spec'ed" buffer weight for that combination.
Most of SAW's (Specialized Armament Warehouse - Ken "The Colt Whisperer" Elmore) 14.5" models also come with H2 buffers, and it is part of his "Reliability Package," though his M4A1 CQBR uses an H3 buffer. Another option is if you already have an H buffer, you can just buy an H3, and cross level one steel for one tungsten weight, and have two H2 weight buffers. Honestly - as long as you have a carbine buffer and an H3, you can mix and match the three steel carbine weights and three tungsten H3 weights and test what combination works best for you. A lot of folks recommend using the heaviest buffer and spring combination that will cycle reliably - but IMHO, that's not always the best combination - depending on your gas system timing - the heavier buffer may be too heavy for overall reliable function with a fouled weapon, undercharged ammunition (not just cheap steel cased, but say bad RG SS109), and in extreme cold. These may or may not be factors for you. In a true "combat" weapon, these can all be important factors at one point in time or another. For personally owned weapons, they may not be as much of an issue. The heavier the buffer - the smoother the weapon will be, and theoretically, the longer the parts will last, as one of the principle functions of the buffer in the AR system is to delay unlocking of the bolt while the pressure is still high in the chamber. Regardless - my suggestion would be: "H" as a minimum weight Avoid buffers like the 9MM buffer, which does not have the proper configuration of reciprocating weights - the buffer should sound like a rattle when you shake it, the reciprocating weights act like a dead-blow hammer when the buffer hits the end of the receiver extension, and then again when the bolt locks into the chamber. Personally, I prefer to avoid any kind of "special" buffers that are out there, including hydraulic buffers or the "powdered" buffers like the Spike's T2. ~Augee |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 3:20:42 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By Augee:
H2 is the "spec'ed" buffer weight for that combination. Most of SAW's (Specialized Armament Warehouse - Ken "The Colt Whisperer" Elmore) 14.5" models also come with H2 buffers, and it is part of his "Reliability Package," though his M4A1 CQBR uses an H3 buffer. Another option is if you already have an H buffer, you can just buy an H3, and cross level one steel for one tungsten weight, and have two H2 weight buffers. Honestly - as long as you have a carbine buffer and an H3, you can mix and match the three steel carbine weights and three tungsten H3 weights and test what combination works best for you. A lot of folks recommend using the heaviest buffer and spring combination that will cycle reliably - but IMHO, that's not always the best combination - depending on your gas system timing - the heavier buffer may be too heavy for overall reliable function with a fouled weapon, undercharged ammunition (not just cheap steel cased, but say bad RG SS109), and in extreme cold. These may or may not be factors for you. In a true "combat" weapon, these can all be important factors at one point in time or another. For personally owned weapons, they may not be as much of an issue. The heavier the buffer - the smoother the weapon will be, and theoretically, the longer the parts will last, as one of the principle functions of the buffer in the AR system is to delay unlocking of the bolt while the pressure is still high in the chamber. Regardless - my suggestion would be: "H" as a minimum weight Avoid buffers like the 9MM buffer, which does not have the proper configuration of reciprocating weights - the buffer should sound like a rattle when you shake it, the reciprocating weights act like a dead-blow hammer when the buffer hits the end of the receiver extension, and then again when the bolt locks into the chamber. Personally, I prefer to avoid any kind of "special" buffers that are out there, including hydraulic buffers or the "powdered" buffers like the Spike's T2. ~Augee As usual you deliver! I think I'll go with my gut and just buy all three start with an H and she how she runs. I'm still piecing it together and this it my first complete ground up build before I just specified the parts I wanted at spikes and it all just worked out. It's a different ball game trying to build out a military issued system though and you guys are wealth of information. |
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Posted: 12/8/2012 8:38:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Lancelot]
[#14]
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 8:50:03 PM EDT
[#15]
First one CCT?
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IL, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 9:51:06 PM EDT
[#16]
Not sure who it is, but that looks like a CQBR.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2012 10:21:55 PM EDT
[#17]
Looks like the WMX200 is really getting out there. Haven't seen a single Surefire V-series in any pictures except for that one photo-shoot for smith optics.
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Posted: 12/8/2012 10:23:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By patriot_man:
Looks like the WMX200 is really getting out there. Haven't seen a single Surefire V-series in any pictures except for that one photo-shoot for smith optics. That pic looks like its from the same group of pics in the mk18 thread with the AF using the wmx200 |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 10:30:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Lancelot]
[#19]
I wasn't sure who it was, or barrel length. But I thought the detail of the Elcan and the light were worth posting.
I can delete them if they don't belong here. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2012 10:43:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tmender03]
[#20]
The Insight MRDS caught my eye on this PR rifle, 
and the EXPS3 on this one. |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 11:39:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: RTUtah]
[#21]
Originally Posted By Tmender03: http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796310_zps70cbabac.jpg and the EXPS3 on this one. Good find. And screw that bulky-ass 203. I know it's a force multiplier and all that but it's just SOOOO clunky and bulky. |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 12:25:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blanco_Diablo]
[#22]
Oh man, I am SO EXCITED! Just sold some parts I needed to sell, and as soon as the money comes in from PayPal, I'll be ordering my DD rail and be able to put my Block II together!!
So far, this is what I have. RRA upper (M4 feedramps), Bushmaster 14.5" 1/7 barrel, VLTOR lo-pro gas block. Also have a Matech BUIS and TA31F ready for it. 
ETA: Am I going to need to drill a divot for the set screws on the gas block or can I just tighten them down and put loctite on them? |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 12:45:08 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By Blanco_Diablo:
Oh man, I am SO EXCITED! Just sold some parts I needed to sell, and as soon as the money comes in from PayPal, I'll be ordering my DD rail and be able to put my Block II together!! So far, this is what I have. RRA upper (M4 feedramps), Bushmaster 14.5" 1/7 barrel, VLTOR lo-pro gas block. Also have a Matech BUIS and TA31F ready for it. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/BlancoDiablo/securedownload18.jpg ETA: Am I going to need to drill a divot for the set screws on the gas block or can I just tighten them down and put loctite on them? I always just tightened them down and loctited them. Mine is off at Tornado Technologies getting the SF3P perm-attached. 
I may do another that isn't a FSB. My excuse is that I have 3 kids. They each need one. 
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Posted: 12/9/2012 2:57:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ragincajun1919]
[#24]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796334_zps730391b5.jpg The Insight MRDS caught my eye on this PR rifle, http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796310_zps70cbabac.jpg and the EXPS3 on this one. That's the first Elcan pic I've seen its am insight using the "armor" protecting the mrd. I have one for my insight mrd nut didn't use it for clone purposes. Now it's going on there. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2012 3:18:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Seen one on a SCAR once.
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Posted: 12/9/2012 4:30:35 PM EDT
[#26]
Going to sell my PR upper so if anyone needs a matech buis or td vfg in fde lmk.
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Posted: 12/9/2012 4:43:45 PM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Seen one on a SCAR once. I just installed mine and it looks even bulkier.... |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 6:27:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919: Originally Posted By Tmender03: Seen one on a SCAR once. I just installed mine and it looks even bulkier.... Hook some chain to it, tie a rope off to the chain. Voila, boat anchor.  |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 6:57:31 PM EDT
[#29]
Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together.
Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 6:58:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Friendly_Crusader]
[#30]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796334_zps730391b5.jpg The Insight MRDS caught my eye on this PR rifle, http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796310_zps70cbabac.jpg and the EXPS3 on this one. That kid with blonde hair and blue eyes caught my eye, personally. 
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Posted: 12/9/2012 7:03:57 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796334_zps730391b5.jpg The Insight MRDS caught my eye on this PR rifle, http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt104/vor033/United%20States%20Spec%20Ops/796310_zps70cbabac.jpg and the EXPS3 on this one. Who makes the sling in the bottom pic? Thanks. |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 7:07:03 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Socomike:
Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together. Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike The KAC RAS rails are very commonly found on the EE and usually come with the set of rail panels + VFG. Matech rear BUIS there are vendors that sell them for $40 shipped and an A2 pistol grip is probably $5 shipped. What exactly is your budget? |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 7:09:53 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By Socomike:
Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together. Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike Message sent |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 7:32:20 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By thesocialistnetwork:
Originally Posted By Socomike:
Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together. Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike The KAC RAS rails are very commonly found on the EE and usually come with the set of rail panels + VFG. Matech rear BUIS there are vendors that sell them for $40 shipped and an A2 pistol grip is probably $5 shipped. What exactly is your budget? Budget is around 100-120 for the rail and 30-40ish for the matech if I buy new. I am watching the EE now and didn't see and rails on there. Usually I see 2-3 for sale every time I'm on there. I figured someone was looking to sell or part out a rifle on here
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Posted: 12/9/2012 7:55:09 PM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By Socomike: I'll send an A2 grip your way if you need one. Just PM me for an address.Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together. Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 8:14:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: silhouette_]
[#36]
Originally Posted By Socomike:
Originally Posted By thesocialistnetwork:
Originally Posted By Socomike:
Alright guys. I need a little help. A buddy of mine from Batt wants a phased replacement that mimics his old issued rifle. His gf provided the gun And he is out of the country until Christmas. I have until then to get the rifle together. Parts I still need are: 1) Knights rail (I have rail covers here) 2) knights VFG 3) matech rear BUIS 4) possibly an A2 pistol grip. Any help finding deals would be appreciated. I'm watching the EE as well. She have me a strict budget to follow, and not a lot of time. Hes a good dude and id like to come through for him. Thanks a lot fellas. Mike The KAC RAS rails are very commonly found on the EE and usually come with the set of rail panels + VFG. Matech rear BUIS there are vendors that sell them for $40 shipped and an A2 pistol grip is probably $5 shipped. What exactly is your budget? Budget is around 100-120 for the rail and 30-40ish for the matech if I buy new. I am watching the EE now and didn't see and rails on there. Usually I see 2-3 for sale every time I'm on there. I figured someone was looking to sell or part out a rifle on here I was not wanting to part PR upper out that i was going to sell but I'm willing to do it for his service. Pm me I have just about very thing you are looking for and we can work on the prices. |
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Posted: 12/9/2012 9:38:52 PM EDT
[#37]
I get a lot of questions about how the paint holds up on my Block II, so I figured I'd post a pic of my receiver area. As you can see, the paint overall stands up great except around the sharp edges, and I fully believe that if it was a forged lower, the paint would hold up much better. Except in the magwell area, that was bound to get roughed up.
Also, the base coat (AERVOE) stands up a lot better than the camo overlay (krylon) which will smear and rub off rather quickly with a lot of sweaty hand use. 
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2012 10:30:12 PM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Seen one on a SCAR once. I just installed mine and it looks even bulkier.... I have one on my 870, sadly the lens is still slightly scratched, but I think it was from the lens pen.  Not too bad though.
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Posted: 12/10/2012 4:18:00 AM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Seen one on a SCAR once. I just installed mine and it looks even bulkier.... I have one on my 870, sadly the lens is still slightly scratched, but I think it was from the lens pen. Not too bad though.Eh, the Doc on my Gen III SU-230/PVS is smashed in on the top and the glass is cracked and flaking off - it still works, and I see no reason to do anything about some "honest" wear. Not sure exactly how it happened, but it came back with me like that after my last government vacation.
~Augee |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 11:36:00 AM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By Augee:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Seen one on a SCAR once. I just installed mine and it looks even bulkier.... I have one on my 870, sadly the lens is still slightly scratched, but I think it was from the lens pen. Not too bad though.Eh, the Doc on my Gen III SU-230/PVS is smashed in on the top and the glass is cracked and flaking off - it still works, and I see no reason to do anything about some "honest" wear. Not sure exactly how it happened, but it came back with me like that after my last government vacation.
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff502/augeekim/DSC01524.jpg ~Augee Insight's hood would have helped you there! |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 1:27:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JRas]
[#41]
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
I get a lot of questions about how the paint holds up on my Block II, so I figured I'd post a pic of my receiver area. As you can see, the paint overall stands up great except around the sharp edges, and I fully believe that if it was a forged lower, the paint would hold up much better. Except in the magwell area, that was bound to get roughed up. Also, the base coat (AERVOE) stands up a lot better than the camo overlay (krylon) which will smear and rub off rather quickly with a lot of sweaty hand use. Agreed, on Aervoe being strong. Mine has held up surprisingly well. I would NOT recommend the spray and shoot same day however. I found the paint needs maybe a day to set and reach it's true strength. Also spray a toy gun and make sure you get your distance right, people online may say to shoot from a foot away. I found in my climate I needed to be closer, as the spray paint would dry before impact (not the desired look). The only "real" wear I have is when I put my rifle in a case with my cousins rifle. *see A2 grip http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/6603/img2012121000134.jpg cellphone quality 
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Posted: 12/10/2012 1:33:36 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By JRas:
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
I get a lot of questions about how the paint holds up on my Block II, so I figured I'd post a pic of my receiver area. As you can see, the paint overall stands up great except around the sharp edges, and I fully believe that if it was a forged lower, the paint would hold up much better. Except in the magwell area, that was bound to get roughed up. Also, the base coat (AERVOE) stands up a lot better than the camo overlay (krylon) which will smear and rub off rather quickly with a lot of sweaty hand use. Agreed, on Aervoe being strong. Mine has held up surprisingly well. I would NOT recommend the spray and shoot same day however. I found the paint needs maybe a day to set and reach it's true strength. Also spray a toy gun and make sure you get your distance right, people online may say to shoot from a foot away. I found in my climate I needed to be closer, as the spray paint would dry before impact (not the desired look). The only "real" wear I have is when I put my rifle in a case with my cousins rifle. *see A2 grip http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/6603/img2012121000134.jpg cellphone quality
I agree. In fact, I'd say the AERVOE needs 2-3 days to fully dry (in the area I live). The krylon dries in minutes, so that can be done day of the range, or even on the range. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 5:26:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rippleadder]
[#43]
Well the parts are flooding in slowly.
next up is the flash hider I can't decided between surefire,DD, or A2X but I want the barrel sent to ADCO asap. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 5:42:52 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Well the parts are flooding in slowly.
next up is the flash hider I can't decided between surefire,DD, or A2X but I want the barrel sent to ADCO asap. Go with Knights NT4. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 5:45:14 PM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Well the parts are flooding in slowly.
next up is the flash hider I can't decided between surefire,DD, or A2X but I want the barrel sent to ADCO asap. Go with Knights NT4. Any specific reason other than authenticity and using the NT4 can? |
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Posted: 12/10/2012 5:47:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: silhouette_]
[#46]
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Well the parts are flooding in slowly.
next up is the flash hider I can't decided between surefire,DD, or A2X but I want the barrel sent to ADCO asap. Go with Knights NT4. Any specific reason other than authenticity and using the NT4 can? I have a b5 sopmod stock in black I'll sell you =] ETA pic thread 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 6:34:43 PM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By silhouette_:
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By rippleadder:
Well the parts are flooding in slowly.
next up is the flash hider I can't decided between surefire,DD, or A2X but I want the barrel sent to ADCO asap. Go with Knights NT4. Any specific reason other than authenticity and using the NT4 can? I have a b5 sopmod stock in black I'll sell you =] ETA pic thread http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s473/paytonpTX/7298E0C4-D652-449A-81DF-CB49E391862C-5591-000004DA809EE46E.jpg You need a tan 952v. |
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Posted: 12/10/2012 7:16:28 PM EDT
[#48]
Added redi mag to my Block II FSP. Moving it backwards to more a PR rifle. The T1 is going to be replaced with an ECOS-N (Comp M2 in Wilcox mount). The only block II items with my the M6X and the RISII. Why? ....why not. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2012 7:25:31 PM EDT
[#49]
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/punkrockpoet/89BA3AD8-2C4A-417B-AC05-F6A243B3C26F-15949-0000100CA6C4F8D4.jpg Added redi mag to my Block II FSP. Moving it backwards to more a PR rifle. The T1 is going to be replaced with an ECOS-N (Comp M2 in Wilcox mount). The only block II items with my the M6X and the RISII. Why? ....why not. Have you use the redi-mag much? I've been seriously considering adding one to my Block II and PR |
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Posted: 12/10/2012 7:28:16 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Will816:
Originally Posted By ragincajun1919:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/punkrockpoet/89BA3AD8-2C4A-417B-AC05-F6A243B3C26F-15949-0000100CA6C4F8D4.jpg Added redi mag to my Block II FSP. Moving it backwards to more a PR rifle. The T1 is going to be replaced with an ECOS-N (Comp M2 in Wilcox mount). The only block II items with my the M6X and the RISII. Why? ....why not. Have you use the redi-mag much? I've been seriously considering adding one to my Block II and PR Literally just installed it. Seems like it will definitely take some training and practice. Next time I hit the range, I'll report back how it works.... This is the only rifle I own with a normal forged lower, so it had to go on this rifle or nothing. |
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