Not necessarily. What do you want to do with these? Are you just looking for a general suppressed blasting load to kill milk jugs? Or are you wanting something to hunt deer with? Or maybe feral pigs?

For a “fun” blasting load, lighter bullets do just fine, and in some instances seem to shoot quieter. For hunting, a subsonic 240 gr. bullet could get the job done. You just have to be selective about shot distance & placement.

While most of the commercial coated bullets use Hi Tek coating, I have found not all applications are equal.

I have had problems with a couple manufacturers, but have always had good results from MBC.

That’s not to say any manufacturer couldn’t get the occasional bad batch. You can do a smash test on your coated bullets to ensure you have a good coating application. You can smash a bullet with a hammer, or I like to do it with a vice.

Shown below are three coated bullets from different manufacturers, plus one plated bullet.

On a bad application, the coating will flake off when the bulletins smashed. Like the second bullet from the left in the picture.

The left-most bullet is from MBC, and the coating looks like it should.

The only other thing I’d mention, I’d recommend you check that you have enough flair on the case to ensure you’re not scraping the coating. Even the best coating application will lead the barrel if you scrape it off when seating the bullet.

I have to wonder if that is caused when the bullet hits the berm. If it yaws to one side on impact, that would explain why more coating is missing on one side vs. the other.

The other thing making me wonder that is the coating missing from the front truncated portion of the bullet. The section that doesn’t touch the rifling. You have coating missing from there as well.

Again, I’m thinking anyone could run a batch with poor coating application. So I’m not ruling that out. But your smash test was good.

I wonder what those would look like if shot into water. I’ve lined up a row of milk jugs before to catch a bullet.  However, shooting a solids makes this difficult. It would probably take a dozen or more jugs of water to catch one of these.

My pic of my cast PC bullets that hit steel at 25 yds. Fired from 4 inch M&P 9mm.

Also has hammer test and plated bullets.

Lots of PC remaining on non exploded parts of bullet.

Check your suppressor for leading also.

I sense you are a candidate for powder coating. (if you want the leading to stop)

Life made simple.

Lee C430-310-rf mold, and have someone with a lathe shave the top of the mold to remove the bullet check part that it will cast.


Mold will now cast a 270gr bullet, that you can cast, powder coat and size yourself on the cheap.  And by cheap, all the set up to do this in cost, will pay for itself in the few hundred bullets that you store buy instead.

And why this bullet on the left, it comes down to having two bullet climp grooves, and by using the lower of the two groove to crimp, should end up with the bullet only have a very short jump to land as well.  In a marlin 1894, I end up with about .002" jump to lands, verse the country mile you end up with some of the other mold bullets isntead.


Now regarding sizing the bullet after they have been powder coated, will be around .433", and depending on the rifling in play, if micro grooved barrel, size them to .433, and if deeper rifling like in a S&W type barrel, then down to .431 instead.

Now regarding powders for the 270gr bullet in 44 mag, for subsonic use clays with standard primer. N320 will work as well, but powder is more expensive isntead.
For mid 1300fps loads, use universal or unique with standard pistol primers,
and if you want to push them 2K fps, since loading the bullet out of the lower bullet crimp groove has increased the case void/PC bullets will shoot 2K+ without leading so no gas check needed, then 296/H110 (same powder), or 300-mp with magnum primer ( which the hotter primers is needed to get the spherical powder a correct burn start.  

And regarding  dense spherical powders, really need to have a 80% volume fill, and hotter primer to get it burning correctly.  So if using less than 80% case volume fills with a spherical powder, then need to use poly filler to keep powder packed to primer, which is less than ideal with a supressor, since just its just going to get pushed to the can and burnt up in there.

Bluntly, I stumbled on this bullet when looking for a mold that would allow longer loading for carbines to reduce bullet jump to lands/ longer Coal to increase case cavity with bullet seating, and has worked out very well for all my 44 cal guns, and the three powders for how fast you want to push it, the clays and univeral powder are a flake powder that is not case fill sensitive,and when pushing the bullet max speed with the spherical powder, your at over a 80% case fill once you figure out what the barrel likes best*
* start working up the ladder on your loads, and watch as the bullets come straight up with the speeds on the target, and when the bullet group starts to go left or right and open up, instead of up farther on the target, that load is a touch too hot for what the barrel wants in max speed.

Hence in a 629, will long load to the right,


to use up all the cylinder length to decrease jump to forcing cone and increase case volume to increase speed, and the 270 cast bullet is only slightly shorter in the pistol to get the job done in the pistol as well.

Short of that, then with the load being subsonic, and not having a microgroove barrel that the bullet needs to be OD larger than .430 to retain the rifling correctly, then look for a store bought bullet that does have the seating crimping groove lower in the bullet (or at least more wax grooves), or just go to a plated bullet that you can longer COAL load to get the shorter jump to lands.  Hence the longer the jump to lands, the more the barrel is just going to spray instead.

 
Too slow of powder burns, and working pressures too low for the speeds you want to achieve, even with a 300gr bullet.

So again, switch to Clays (or a powder in that burn range that is also a flake powder) that will have a higher working pressure for the speeds that you are trying to achieve, and longer load the bullet in the case for less jump to lands as well.  

If using an extruded or finer grain  spherical powder (not a flake powder), then even in this speed/working pressure range, will need to use poly fillers to keep the reduced amount of powder tight to the primer end of the case, to achieve the correct initial burn.  With clays, since it's a bulkier flake powder, even with half a case fill, has no problem with even standard pistol primer of achieving a correct through-out burn, without the need of fillers to keep it tight to the primer end of the case.

https://hodgdonpowderco.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/updatedburnrateschart-1.pdf

Welcome to the powder coating people.

With this mold, install gas checks before powder coating. (they won't fit after PC)

I use the Hornady gas checks, I find the best price on Midsouth.



My home cast 310 gr PC's loaded to Redhalk length.

Standard length would be the top crimp grove.

Myself shooting a Redhalk, gas check  = good accuracy.

No gas check,  = you shoot patterns.

I prefer pistol bullet designs without a gas check, but if take a gas check, I put one on.

Experiment to see what works for you. I did.

Your bullets look great.

PC is the lube, so no messy lube needed.

I size all of mine as I want consistency.

If they passed the hammer test, you will get no leading.

Got my fingers crossed for the accuracy.