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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
Anybody know if the Adams arms XLP gasblock/system will fit under the CMR?
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Avionics Electrical Technician, USCG
Proud Member of Team Ranstad |
Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
Has anyone learned of a recommended torque value for the rail screws that tighten it up to the barrel nut?
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Originally Posted By akiraproject24:
Has anyone learned of a recommended torque value for the rail screws that tighten it up to the barrel nut? View Quote If you over-torque the three cross screws you'll actually cause the top of the rail to spread out around the barrel nut, and the top of the rail will drop below the level of your upper receiver. An easy way to limit the torque but also ensure they're tight enough is by using the long end of the allen key in the screw head, and the short end in your fingers. You can only crank it so much this way before your fingers give out. :) |
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Originally Posted By BEAST33:
<a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10514530_10101494395227338_5931614423288574817_n_zpsc3e14da7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10514530_10101494395227338_5931614423288574817_n_zpsc3e14da7.jpg</a> <a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10511336_10101494394957878_841587600780610594_n_zps85feea6f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10511336_10101494394957878_841587600780610594_n_zps85feea6f.jpg</a> <a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10449163_10101494395067658_4153877342279403876_n_zpsa5fabf42.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10449163_10101494395067658_4153877342279403876_n_zpsa5fabf42.jpg</a> View Quote What barrel length is that? |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
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Originally Posted By Maack: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XSOUCbGjoQw/U7QUlfDIN8I/AAAAAAAAA8Q/LyRKQ8fvZMU/s1600/14.5_3.jpg View Quote |
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Thanks!
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RIP: LTC D. Cabrera and SGT C. Newman-29OCT11-OEF
FL, USA
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How about a rail for a DPMS Oracle with a 16 inch barrel?
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"Everybody gotta die sometime Red"
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So has anyone found a readily available tool to remove and reinstall this CMR barrel nut? I'm bout to swap a barrel and I don't think my castle nut tool will take this bad boy off.
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Originally Posted By Rizzle901:
So has anyone found a readily available tool to remove and reinstall this CMR barrel nut? I'm bout to swap a barrel and I don't think my castle nut tool will take this bad boy off. View Quote This works perfectly: Tapco AR Armorer's Tool You'll use the part right next to the bottle opener. |
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Originally Posted By Maack:
This works perfectly: Tapco AR Armorer's Tool http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F78uOgvxuyc/U7qezo4zRKI/AAAAAAAAA8k/jjgu-QLikq8/s1600/tool.png You'll use the part right next to the bottle opener. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Maack:
Originally Posted By Rizzle901:
So has anyone found a readily available tool to remove and reinstall this CMR barrel nut? I'm bout to swap a barrel and I don't think my castle nut tool will take this bad boy off. This works perfectly: Tapco AR Armorer's Tool http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F78uOgvxuyc/U7qezo4zRKI/AAAAAAAAA8k/jjgu-QLikq8/s1600/tool.png You'll use the part right next to the bottle opener. Don't go cheap and get the NC Star version. The pin (knob?) on the wrench can't handle the torque. A few pages back there is a McMaster-Carr part number for a pin spanner wrench that is supposed to work as well. |
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Team Ranstad
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Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
What barrel length is that? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
Originally Posted By BEAST33:
<a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10514530_10101494395227338_5931614423288574817_n_zpsc3e14da7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10514530_10101494395227338_5931614423288574817_n_zpsc3e14da7.jpg</a> <a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10511336_10101494394957878_841587600780610594_n_zps85feea6f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10511336_10101494394957878_841587600780610594_n_zps85feea6f.jpg</a> <a href="http://s22.photobucket.com/user/dirtyndiesel/media/10449163_10101494395067658_4153877342279403876_n_zpsa5fabf42.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/dirtyndiesel/10449163_10101494395067658_4153877342279403876_n_zpsa5fabf42.jpg</a> What barrel length is that? 14.5 The AAC can has just enough clearance fully wratched down on the brake...didn't need to shave down or do anything crazy. |
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Forgive me if this has been answered. How do you get proper torque spec, with the spanner wrench?
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I was just about to ask the same question ^^^
I emailed Nikki@Centurion and was told also to order the McMaster part.. But there is no socket for torquing. |
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Is there a 7 or 8" version available? An 8" with an aac 300bll barrel would be cool.
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I used to be an adventurer like you, then I took a .50 bolt in the neck.
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Originally Posted By PriapusMaximus:
Forgive me if this has been answered. How do you get proper torque spec, with the spanner wrench? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By PriapusMaximus:
Forgive me if this has been answered. How do you get proper torque spec, with the spanner wrench? Originally Posted By Rizzle901:
I was just about to ask the same question ^^^ I emailed Nikki@Centurion and was told also to order the McMaster part.. But there is no socket for torquing. Use the good old German torque value of gutentite. Seriously, though, 35-40 inch lbs is relatively low. If you have a torque wrench, set it to 40 ft. lbs, clamp the socket tip in a vice, and hold it at approximately the same length as where you'll grasp the spanner wrench in relation to the barrel nut. Then, torque it a few times so you can get a feel for the approximate amount of force. Most people have pretty good muscle memory after a few torques, so you can transfer that over to using the spanner wrench on your CMR nut. |
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Any sites out there selling the 14" 556 CMR for less than $300? AIM has it sold out at $299 shipped. I missed the last sale at centurion arms
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Has anyone found aluminum rail sections that work with the CMR?
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I used to be an adventurer like you, then I took a .50 bolt in the neck.
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I seem to have an issue with the 3 bolts that attach the handguard to the rail. The bolts are coming loose and allow the handguard to shift forward.
Blue loctite, usually my friend, has let me down twice now. I've cleaned the threads with brake cleaner too before applying the blue loctite. Anyone? I don't want to go to the Green loctite, but I see it in my future. I like this rail once I got past the wrench (or lack of) issue. I have a nice CMR wrench collection now. |
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Originally Posted By Snerticus:
I seem to have an issue with the 3 bolts that attach the handguard to the rail. The bolts are coming loose and allow the handguard to shift forward. Blue loctite, usually my friend, has let me down twice now. I've cleaned the threads with brake cleaner too before applying the blue loctite. Anyone? I don't want to go to the Green loctite, but I see it in my future. I like this rail once I got past the wrench (or lack of) issue. I have a nice CMR wrench collection now. View Quote This is really...strange. The center screw rides in the slot in the barrel nut, so the handguard can't slip forward but so far if all three screws loosen up. You also shouldn't use loctite with the three clamping screws because they thread into heli-coil inserts. When you use loctite on the screw being threaded into a heli-coil, it can actually cause the insert to spin. |
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Originally Posted By Slippers:
This is really...strange. The center screw rides in the slot in the barrel nut, so the handguard can't slip forward but so far if all three screws loosen up. You also shouldn't use loctite with the three clamping screws because they thread into heli-coil inserts. When you use loctite on the screw being threaded into a heli-coil, it can actually cause the insert to spin. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By Snerticus:
I seem to have an issue with the 3 bolts that attach the handguard to the rail. The bolts are coming loose and allow the handguard to shift forward. Blue loctite, usually my friend, has let me down twice now. I've cleaned the threads with brake cleaner too before applying the blue loctite. Anyone? I don't want to go to the Green loctite, but I see it in my future. I like this rail once I got past the wrench (or lack of) issue. I have a nice CMR wrench collection now. This is really...strange. The center screw rides in the slot in the barrel nut, so the handguard can't slip forward but so far if all three screws loosen up. You also shouldn't use loctite with the three clamping screws because they thread into heli-coil inserts. When you use loctite on the screw being threaded into a heli-coil, it can actually cause the insert to spin. I read your post and removed my CMR from my rifle. Put the upper on my reaction rod and removed the gas tube. Put my pin wrench on the barrel nut and the barrel nut came loose with almost NO EFFORT. I removed the barrel nut from the upper and inspected the threads. Threads on my Mega forged upper were sharp and clean. Barrel nut threads were fine also. I reapplied grease to the shoulder of the barrel and the threads on both the nut and barrel. Tightened down the barrel nut three times and loosened with the pin wrench. On the 4th time, I used a pipe wrench to grab the handle of the pin wrench. Tightened down SIGNIFICANTLY further. My pin wrench is not compatible with my torque wrench (I wish). I was so surprised with the difference I then loosened it and started over using the pin wrench/pipe wrench to tighten down the barrel nut. I think this is my solution. I didn't go all out with this combination. From using my torque wrench with my NSR crowfoot wrench, I'm comfortable the CMR barrel nut is on within torque range. Cleaned the bolt sockets up to with brake cleaner too. I'll clean the sockets up again later and reassemble. TL,DR-> I think my problem was a loose barrel nut. |
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Originally Posted By Maack: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KPkrMYn32Y/U97njFaTKiI/AAAAAAAAA-g/HNbHf7JLr-k/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG View Quote Supported or unsupported and what distance?
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Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Nice. Supported or unsupported and what distance? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By Maack:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KPkrMYn32Y/U97njFaTKiI/AAAAAAAAA-g/HNbHf7JLr-k/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG Supported or unsupported and what distance? That was at 7 yards offhand. It was the first time shooting the KAC MAMS in combination with the Geissele SD3G. It was surprising to say the least. I could shoot strings of 7 or 8 as fast as I could pull the trigger and everything stayed near the center of the plate. |
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So nobody make a .625 gas block that fits under this rail but the adjustable syrac?
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Originally Posted By Maack: That was at 7 yards offhand. It was the first time shooting the KAC MAMS in combination with the Geissele SD3G. It was surprising to say the least. I could shoot strings of 7 or 8 as fast as I could pull the trigger and everything stayed near the center of the plate. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Maack: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Originally Posted By Maack: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KPkrMYn32Y/U97njFaTKiI/AAAAAAAAA-g/HNbHf7JLr-k/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG Supported or unsupported and what distance? That was at 7 yards offhand. It was the first time shooting the KAC MAMS in combination with the Geissele SD3G. It was surprising to say the least. I could shoot strings of 7 or 8 as fast as I could pull the trigger and everything stayed near the center of the plate. Anything KAC and Geissele will help a shit ton imo. |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
Originally Posted By phylodog: Just a heads' up in the event it hasn't been covered previously. I recently put together a 14.5" upper to kill some coyotes this fall and installed a 14" CMR. Absolutely love the rail and decided it would be a great upgrade for my work rifle with a 12.5" barrel so I ordered a 12" CMR. The 12" came in today and to my dismay I found that it isn't going to allow me to attach my suppressor, the 12" rail is actually 12.56" long and the 14" CMR is actually 13.68". http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv63/phylodog/IMG_0951_zps1705f290.jpg So for those who may be considering a CMR rail, I provide the following useful information which can hopefully prevent others from being a dickhead like I am. 9.5" CMR is 9.5" long 11" CMR is 11" long 12" CMR is 12.56" long 14" CMR is 13.688" long View Quote |
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Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
So you going to order an 11"? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By phylodog:
Just a heads' up in the event it hasn't been covered previously. I recently put together a 14.5" upper to kill some coyotes this fall and installed a 14" CMR. Absolutely love the rail and decided it would be a great upgrade for my work rifle with a 12.5" barrel so I ordered a 12" CMR. The 12" came in today and to my dismay I found that it isn't going to allow me to attach my suppressor, the 12" rail is actually 12.56" long and the 14" CMR is actually 13.68". http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv63/phylodog/IMG_0951_zps1705f290.jpg So for those who may be considering a CMR rail, I provide the following useful information which can hopefully prevent others from being a dickhead like I am. 9.5" CMR is 9.5" long 11" CMR is 11" long 12" CMR is 12.56" long 14" CMR is 13.688" long I've never understood this. Make it as long as you say it is. Don't call it a 12" rail and then make it 12.56" long |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
Would the CMR 12 work with a 12.5 barrel with a KAC triple tap? Im trying to find out if the triple tap would be outside the rail. If the very end would be inside I'm ok with that, I don't have a can. Im looking to see if the actual ported sections would clear the rail.
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Are there any adjustable gas blocks that fit under this rail? I've heard the SLR is good to go but was wondering if anyone had some firsthand experience.
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
I used to be an adventurer like you, then I took a .50 bolt in the neck.
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Bump
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Originally Posted By CastorTroy:
https://i.imgur.com/ffzXcMB.jpg http://castor-troy.com/vortex/vortex3.jpg View Quote Very nice. |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
Originally Posted By Maack:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KPkrMYn32Y/U97njFaTKiI/AAAAAAAAA-g/HNbHf7JLr-k/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG View Quote Maack, is that a Sure M600p? I see you have it on the last and middle holes when mounting it on the hand rail. Can you not move it to first and middle mounting holes? Will the bezel of the m600p not clear the hand rail then? Any additional closer pictures of m600p on the CMR? |
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Originally Posted By Seagrave7:
Maack, is that a Sure M600p? I see you have it on the last and middle holes when mounting it on the hand rail. Can you not move it to first and middle mounting holes? Will the bezel of the m600p not clear the hand rail then? Any additional closer pictures of m600p on the CMR? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Seagrave7:
Originally Posted By Maack:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KPkrMYn32Y/U97njFaTKiI/AAAAAAAAA-g/HNbHf7JLr-k/s1600/IMG_2487.JPG Maack, is that a Sure M600p? I see you have it on the last and middle holes when mounting it on the hand rail. Can you not move it to first and middle mounting holes? Will the bezel of the m600p not clear the hand rail then? Any additional closer pictures of m600p on the CMR? Looks like the 600U to me...semi-crenellated bezel is the giveaway |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose:
Wait you mean someone who goes on a shooting spree stops when they meet the possibility of resistance? What a novel fucking concept. |
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