User Panel
[#1]
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[#2]
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[#3]
The Tromix 243 barrel mentioned above is running a Tromix SFAR barrel extension. Not a a Ruger barrel extension.
Tony |
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[#4]
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[#5]
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Death to quislings.
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[#6]
Its great news when a custom builder starts playing with a platform.
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[Last Edit: lazyengineer]
[#7]
Here's a borescan of my SFAR barrel at about 100 rounds.
It's OK, the throat isn't perfect and has a spot that seems not as uniform as the rest, which isn't ideal. I've seen much worse - but I've seen better too. look at the 16 second mark. and I switched my mount to this, for the 20MOA offset. And the lower weight (it's very light)
(haven't shot it yet - but pretty happy with it during the install) Empty rifle now down to 9# 20z. Not bad for a 6.5 CM AR10 with a 20" semi-HBAR. |
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[Last Edit: lazyengineer]
[#8]
I will repeat one BEWARE item with the SFAR. there's a curious failure mode that can cascade to issues. When under-gassed and fail to eject, it's possible for the casing to wedge in a way that it impacts the tip of the gas-tube, and then the bolt slams into it, putting all that force forward onto the gas tube. When it does that, it can push your entire gas-block forward, and off your gas port! Annoyingly, this could have been easily mitigated if Ruger just milled in a dimple in the barrel where the gas block screws go in just a bit, which would stop forward movement. In the meantime, your only real mitigation is to torque the shit out of the set-screws of the gas-block. The good news is, as the gun breaks in and the entire gas-block carbon-locks in position the more rounds you fire, gluing it in place. Also, as your gun breaks in (and you break in to what the gun settings are), the amount of undergassed jams falls quite fast.
Just a nuance to beware of though - if you get a new SFAR, and are breaking it in and get some jams. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GASBLOCK and make sure it didn't get knocked forward or loose by the gas-tube slamming it forward. At least, I think that's what happened to mine on day 1. The good news is on day 2, I was firing a spectrum of ammo, and some of it was so mild, Gas needed to be on 3, when it was actually still on 2. That's not entirely the guns fault. And in any event, this time my gas block held on the two casings that jammed up and maybe impacted the gas tube. So that's good. |
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[#10]
Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I will repeat one BEWARE item with the SFAR. there's a curious failure mode that can cascade to issues. When under-gassed and fail to eject, it's possible for the casing to wedge in a way that it impacts the tip of the gas-tube, and then the bolt slams into it, putting all that force forward onto the gas tube. When it does that, it can push your entire gas-block forward, and off your gas port! Annoyingly, this could have been easily mitigated if Ruger just milled in a dimple in the barrel where the gas block screws go in just a bit, which would stop forward movement. In the meantime, your only real mitigation is to torque the shit out of the set-screws of the gas-block. The good news as the gun breaks in, the entire gas-block carbon-locks in position the more rounds you fire, gluing it in place. Also, as your gun breaks in (and you break in to what the gun settings are), the amount of undergassed jams falls quite fast. Just a nuance to beware of though - if you get a new SFAR, and are breaking it in and get some jams. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GASBLOCK and make sure it didn't get knocked forward or loose by the gas-tube slamming it forward. At least, I think that's what happened to mine on day 1. The good news is on day 2, I was firing a spectrum of ammo, and some of it was so mild Gas needed to be on 3, when it was actually still on 2. That's not entirely the guns fault. And in any event, this time my gas block held on the two casings the jammed up and maybe impacted the gas tube. So that's good. View Quote I took mine to my local Smith, he double dimpled my factory gas block and shimmed the barrel into the receiver. Cost was 30.00 Maybe try to get it dimpled? |
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[#11]
Originally Posted By BULLDAWG_556: I took mine to my local Smith, he double dimpled my factory gas block and shimmed the barrel into the receiver. Cost was 30.00 Maybe try to get it dimpled? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By BULLDAWG_556: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I will repeat one BEWARE item with the SFAR. there's a curious failure mode that can cascade to issues. When under-gassed and fail to eject, it's possible for the casing to wedge in a way that it impacts the tip of the gas-tube, and then the bolt slams into it, putting all that force forward onto the gas tube. When it does that, it can push your entire gas-block forward, and off your gas port! Annoyingly, this could have been easily mitigated if Ruger just milled in a dimple in the barrel where the gas block screws go in just a bit, which would stop forward movement. In the meantime, your only real mitigation is to torque the shit out of the set-screws of the gas-block. The good news as the gun breaks in, the entire gas-block carbon-locks in position the more rounds you fire, gluing it in place. Also, as your gun breaks in (and you break in to what the gun settings are), the amount of undergassed jams falls quite fast. Just a nuance to beware of though - if you get a new SFAR, and are breaking it in and get some jams. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GASBLOCK and make sure it didn't get knocked forward or loose by the gas-tube slamming it forward. At least, I think that's what happened to mine on day 1. The good news is on day 2, I was firing a spectrum of ammo, and some of it was so mild Gas needed to be on 3, when it was actually still on 2. That's not entirely the guns fault. And in any event, this time my gas block held on the two casings the jammed up and maybe impacted the gas tube. So that's good. I took mine to my local Smith, he double dimpled my factory gas block and shimmed the barrel into the receiver. Cost was 30.00 Maybe try to get it dimpled? I can probably just dimple it myself, using the depressions from the set-screws as a start, and just grind down a bit. But as you say, for $30... wow, that's a good price, I might just pay that. I'm more interested in the barrel shimming. What's that? And did it impact your accuracy? What kind of groups are you getting? In my case, 1.5 MOA, which actually, I'm pretty happy with. But now I'm curious - can I do even better? |
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[#12]
Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I can probably just dimple it myself, using the depressions from the set-screws as a start, and just grind down a bit. But as you say, for $30... wow, that's a good price, I might just pay that. I'm more interested in the barrel shimming. What's that? And did it impact your accuracy? What kind of groups are you getting? In my case, 1.5 MOA, which actually, I'm pretty happy with. But now I'm curious - can I do even better? View Quote In my case the gas block was canted. So I couldn't use the factory marks. Shimming is supposed to tighten the groups, but I just got it back, and have not made it to the range yet. |
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[#13]
Check out post #12
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Precision-Rifles/Hellbender-s-a-k-a-Lostinthewoods-Guide-to-the-Ultimate-AR-fixed-/4-6919/ I shimmed my barrel when I first got my SFAR. I have shot .7" groups with my handloads. FGMM shoots under an inch as well. And the "bad" groups are like 1.25" But cheap ball ammo is still like 2-3" But I replaced my gas block and handguard and put a suppressor on before I ever shot my SFAR so can't really compare. Ruger barrels shoot pretty well. They are CHF and they make the American rifles too which shoot well. |
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[#14]
Any one here put any M118LR factory loads through a 20 inch with any luck?
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[Last Edit: lazyengineer]
[#15]
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[#17]
Anyone who swapped handguards have a factory barrel nut they’d be willing to part with? Bought and received the HBI to try out but can’t find my factory handguard anywhere since I swapped it out for an SLR.
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[#19]
Originally Posted By lazyengineer: So a couple nuances. I've cleaned it a couple times now. The gun is great, the cleaning and maintenance is MOSTLY fine. But I find it absurd that apparently you are supposed to remove the handguard in order to access the gas block, so you can remove the gas regulator for cleaning. And apparently you're supposed to do that often - I guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVUM7NZGcuU Their official video. Is everyone actually taking off their handguard after every outing and pulling out their gas regulator? I will say, I replaced the handguard with one that gives me direct access to the very end of the regulator (go-go rifle-length), so I can, in theory, pull out the regulator every outing easily, without the PITA of removing the handguard. https://i.postimg.cc/qqyZy2Yz/20240518-095219.jpg But here's the problem, removing that regulator is a BITCH. It carbon locks and doesn't want to come out at all. It rotates OK, the wrench gives pretty good leverage on that, to rotate it. But pulling out to clean it and the inside kind of sucks. After doing the tiny-pin plunger and alignment thing (which isn't smooth btw, as plunger hole is tiny, yet spring tension is high - but OK, I can make it work), I then have to somehow pull the regulator out. and it doesn't wanna come out. I basically have to wedge a screwdriver blade in there and twist with a good bit of force, wedge twist, wedge twist. Thank God malonite is a tough finish, because if that were blued this would be marring the shit out of that. Once it comes out a little bit, it doesn't get any easier - and I basically have to beat it out with a brass hammer and punch at a 50 degree angle, on the flange. This sucks. Please tell me I'm doing this completely wrong. i can't find squat for instructions or tips on this aspect. How are most people handling this? TBH, do we even need to actually do this at all anyway? View Quote He also says you should wear eye pro when cleaning the gun. I don't think I will do that either. |
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[#20]
Originally Posted By lazyengineer: So a couple nuances. I've cleaned it a couple times now. The gun is great, the cleaning and maintenance is MOSTLY fine. But I find it absurd that apparently you are supposed to remove the handguard in order to access the gas block, so you can remove the gas regulator for cleaning. And apparently you're supposed to do that often - I guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVUM7NZGcuU Their official video. Is everyone actually taking off their handguard after every outing and pulling out their gas regulator? I will say, I replaced the handguard with one that gives me direct access to the very end of the regulator (go-go rifle-length), so I can, in theory, pull out the regulator every outing easily, without the PITA of removing the handguard. https://i.postimg.cc/qqyZy2Yz/20240518-095219.jpg But here's the problem, removing that regulator is a BITCH. It carbon locks and doesn't want to come out at all. It rotates OK, the wrench gives pretty good leverage on that, to rotate it. But pulling out to clean it and the inside kind of sucks. After doing the tiny-pin plunger and alignment thing (which isn't smooth btw, as plunger hole is tiny, yet spring tension is high - but OK, I can make it work), I then have to somehow pull the regulator out. and it doesn't wanna come out. I basically have to wedge a screwdriver blade in there and twist with a good bit of force, wedge twist, wedge twist. Thank God malonite is a tough finish, because if that were blued this would be marring the shit out of that. Once it comes out a little bit, it doesn't get any easier - and I basically have to beat it out with a brass hammer and punch at a 50 degree angle, on the flange. This sucks. Please tell me I'm doing this completely wrong. i can't find squat for instructions or tips on this aspect. How are most people handling this? TBH, do we even need to actually do this at all anyway? View Quote |
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[#21]
Originally Posted By vectorsc: You don't need to clean it. The only thing I would do if you plan on changing settings ever again is move it to a different setting every few hundred rounds. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By vectorsc: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: So a couple nuances. I've cleaned it a couple times now. The gun is great, the cleaning and maintenance is MOSTLY fine. But I find it absurd that apparently you are supposed to remove the handguard in order to access the gas block, so you can remove the gas regulator for cleaning. And apparently you're supposed to do that often - I guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVUM7NZGcuU Their official video. Is everyone actually taking off their handguard after every outing and pulling out their gas regulator? I will say, I replaced the handguard with one that gives me direct access to the very end of the regulator (go-go rifle-length), so I can, in theory, pull out the regulator every outing easily, without the PITA of removing the handguard. https://i.postimg.cc/qqyZy2Yz/20240518-095219.jpg But here's the problem, removing that regulator is a BITCH. It carbon locks and doesn't want to come out at all. It rotates OK, the wrench gives pretty good leverage on that, to rotate it. But pulling out to clean it and the inside kind of sucks. After doing the tiny-pin plunger and alignment thing (which isn't smooth btw, as plunger hole is tiny, yet spring tension is high - but OK, I can make it work), I then have to somehow pull the regulator out. and it doesn't wanna come out. I basically have to wedge a screwdriver blade in there and twist with a good bit of force, wedge twist, wedge twist. Thank God malonite is a tough finish, because if that were blued this would be marring the shit out of that. Once it comes out a little bit, it doesn't get any easier - and I basically have to beat it out with a brass hammer and punch at a 50 degree angle, on the flange. This sucks. Please tell me I'm doing this completely wrong. i can't find squat for instructions or tips on this aspect. How are most people handling this? TBH, do we even need to actually do this at all anyway? Thanks - that's the direction I was leaning on just going. Sounds like that's what most people are just doing. |
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[#24]
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O.K....I sold all my HKs, but I have to keep my Identity!
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[#25]
I had some mixed feelings today with the SFAR. On one hand it sure seems to be a shooter, on the other it ripped a rim off a case and had to be knocked out with a rod. It happened somewhere around the 50-60 round mark, and did not happen again. It was with a reload with Federal brass, so maybe it was a brass problem. I did fire a box of Federal 175gr GM without issue. I'm going to try loading a bunch in Lake City brass and see if it happens again. Other than that, function has been really good. I tried the gas on setting 3 without much change, but it works on 2. I did try setting 1, but it will not eject a case there.
As for accuracy, it sure seems like a shooter. It is already rivaling my accurized M1A, and I haven't even done anything yet. The burrs in the throat are wearing in, so that shouldn't be a problem much longer. This rifle really liked that Federal 175gr GM ammo. I only shot 15 rounds of it today, but the groups were 1 7/8", 1 3/8", and 1 1/8". That's even with the wind that was not helping me at all. The load that had a ripped rim also shot quite good, it was a 180gr Hornady, it was too windy to really shoot for groups at that point, but it was maintaining under 2 1/2" even with my reticle moving around from the wind. Overall, I am fully happy with the accuracy. One problem I ran into is the new P-Mags the SFAR come with are not the same as the old P-Mags. They really only hold a cartridge at SAMMI maximim 2.800", and nothing more. They also fit kind of loose in the mag well, but they work fine. I bought a handful of metal magazines from Duramag that seemed decent online. They will take a full 2.875" and fit in the mag well like I think they should, and still drop free easily. The problem is they seem to have some problem on the back side, as my bolt release will not work with a Duramag at all. There's something catching it. I emailed Duramag and I'll see what they say. That's such a shame because the KAC magazines people talk about are $113. Screw that, I'll just load my ammo to 2.800" instead of that highway robbery. |
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[Last Edit: fgshoot]
[#27]
What I would prefer is a metal magazine that can handle an OAL of at least 2.860". But I'm not willing to pay $113 for a single magazine to get that. Anything over $50 is completely out of the question. Do you have any suggestions? I would be fine with a plastic mag too if it could handle the longer OAL.
Otherwise Pmags work, it's just annoying. It's too bad they didn't design these to take m14 magazines, those are a better design. |
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[#28]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: What I would prefer is a metal magazine that can handle an OAL of at least 2.860". But I'm not willing to pay $113 for a single magazine to get that. Anything over $50 is completely out of the question. Do you have any suggestions? I would be fine with a plastic mag too if it could handle the longer OAL. Otherwise Pmags work, it's just annoying. It's too bad they didn't design these to take m14 magazines, those are a better design. View Quote Gunmagwarehouse has a few metal mags under 30 bucks... |
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[#29]
Originally Posted By Moto-M187: Gunmagwarehouse has a few metal mags under 30 bucks... View Quote Which would you recommend? I see a Ruger SR-762, ASC, Promag, and Duramag. Based on what I've seen in handguns, I don't know if I can trust Promag. I've never seen such a horseshit follower design in my life. I didn't even know Ruger made magazines, never heard of them. |
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[Last Edit: fgshoot]
[#30]
So reading through the reviews, it sounds like Ruger SR-762 magazines are just Duramags. So how do ASC magazines perform?
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[#31]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: Which would you recommend? I see a Ruger SR-762, ASC, Promag, and Duramag. Based on what I've seen in handguns, I don't know if I can trust Promag. I've never seen such a horseshit follower design in my life. I didn't even know Ruger made magazines, never heard of them. View Quote I've had good luck with the D&H metal mags, not in the SFAR though. Not sure what the loaded round max length is with them. |
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valheru21:"The argument, "this gun won't go down in value," is used to convince the wife that you are not making a bad financial decision when purchasing a firearm. You're not ACTUALLY supposed to ever sell the gun."
Matt |
[#32]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: Which would you recommend? I see a Ruger SR-762, ASC, Promag, and Duramag. Based on what I've seen in handguns, I don't know if I can trust Promag. I've never seen such a horseshit follower design in my life. I didn't even know Ruger made magazines, never heard of them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By fgshoot: Originally Posted By Moto-M187: Gunmagwarehouse has a few metal mags under 30 bucks... Which would you recommend? I see a Ruger SR-762, ASC, Promag, and Duramag. Based on what I've seen in handguns, I don't know if I can trust Promag. I've never seen such a horseshit follower design in my life. I didn't even know Ruger made magazines, never heard of them. I've only used lancer mags in my sfar. I merely gave a source of cheap(er) magazines. If anyone knows of a source for ALUMINUM ar10 mags, let me know! |
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[Last Edit: fgshoot]
[#33]
It seems I may have been too quick to blame the Duramag's. I took the upper off and looked at the bolt catch, and I did not see any reason why it should not work perfectly. I put the upper back on and again it seemed like it would not budge. I then just gave it some grunt and sure enough it released. I did it a few times, and it seemed to get easier. I took the upper back off, and looked to see where it might be rubbing. I then put the Pmag in and could see the problem. The problem is the slot for the bolt release has a ton of play in it, and with the bolt pushing forward, it is jammed up against the back of the magazine. With the Pmag, it has just enough room, or at least the plastic is slippery enough that it works fine. They fit pretty loose in the mag well, and they have some more cutout in the top backside. With the Duramag they are a much better fit for the magwell, but this also puts them closer to the bolt catch. There are a couple small ribs on the back that it is catching on.
So I guess there is more than one way of looking at this. The Pmag, which the SFAR comes with works fine, so maybe the Duramag is too big. Another way of looking at it is the SFAR is out of spec and it is the problem. I don't know what the spec is, but there is a decent amount of slop in that catch, using a feeler gauge a .008" is pretty tight, a .007" would fit. That's only on the pivot side pin, there's not much I can do about the groove the catch rides in. I guess I have a few options. #1 do nothing and hope the magazines break in. Maybe use a little grease. #2 shim the bolt catch at the pivot, which may or may not help #3 file down the ridge of the magazine on the back. #4 file the front of the bolt catch a little on the spots it rubs. #5 replace the bolt catch. I'd probably call Ruger first. After writing that all out, what I think I'm going to do is nothing. Ignore my problems as usual. If they don't break in a little, I'm going to call Ruger and ask for another bolt catch. If that doesn't fit better, I'm going to file the bolt catch a little. It's not like it is way off, I bet .005" off the face of that thing and it would clear the magazine. I'm sure it will be fine. So as of now I'm going to stick with Duramag's. It's not a promising start, but the magazines do seem quality, and they offer a really good OAL. I tried all 5 Duramag's I got, and all seem identical. One I ran the release on a dozen times and it sure seems to be getting easier. |
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[#34]
Larue mags have the exact same issue. I just don't use those in my SFAR. Pretty simple fix.
Tony |
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[#35]
Duramags operate fine in my SFAR
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[#36]
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[#37]
I did some more shooting today with the SFAR. I used mostly 175gr SMK, some Reloader 15, some IMR 4895. I also shot the rest of the 180gr with AR Comp. I did not have enough Lake City cases prepped to load all of it, so about half was LC, half was more Federal.
I had zero issues with extraction, no rims ripped off. The ones with IMR 4895 were fairly light loads, and they required setting 3 to lock open the bolt. All the rest worked great on setting 2. Unfortunately it still seems to be hard on brass even though I must be close to 150 rounds fired through the rifle. It should be as broke in as it needs by now. I'm not seeing any improvement with Lake City brass, they look identical to the Federal brass. Some are acceptable, but enough cases come out with what appears to be slightly bent rims that basically ruins them for reloading. I think I'm going to try some real fast powder like Accurate 2200 just to see if there is any change that way. Either way, it's starting to look like I'm going to be sending this into Ruger. The accuracy is prenominal for what it is. I have not done a single thing to the rifle yet, just tried a few random loads. From what I'm seeing, this is capable of 10 shot groups under 1.5" at 100 yards. The Duramags ran fine, zero issues. |
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[#38]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: I did some more shooting today with the SFAR. I used mostly 175gr SMK, some Reloader 15, some IMR 4895. I also shot the rest of the 180gr with AR Comp. I did not have enough Lake City cases prepped to load all of it, so about half was LC, half was more Federal. I had zero issues with extraction, no rims ripped off. The ones with IMR 4895 were fairly light loads, and they required setting 3 to lock open the bolt. All the rest worked great on setting 2. Unfortunately it still seems to be hard on brass even though I must be close to 150 rounds fired through the rifle. It should be as broke in as it needs by now. I'm not seeing any improvement with Lake City brass, they look identical to the Federal brass. Some are acceptable, but enough cases come out with what appears to be slightly bent rims that basically ruins them for reloading. I think I'm going to try some real fast powder like Accurate 2200 just to see if there is any change that way. Either way, it's starting to look like I'm going to be sending this into Ruger. The accuracy is prenominal for what it is. I have not done a single thing to the rifle yet, just tried a few random loads. From what I'm seeing, this is capable of 10 shot groups under 1.5" at 100 yards. The Duramags ran fine, zero issues. View Quote You should contact Ruger about it chewing the crap out of LC brass. Mine does not do this. I use 8208 powder with no issues. Can you post a picture of the LC brass that got chewed up? |
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[Last Edit: fgshoot]
[#39]
Originally Posted By Bearcat24: You should contact Ruger about it chewing the crap out of LC brass. Mine does not do this. I use 8208 powder with no issues. Can you post a picture of the LC brass that got chewed up? View Quote I wouldn't say it is chewing it up. It's not like some pictures online where it's shaving brass or doing anything like that. It's just pulling really hard on the rim and bending them. Some you can hardly see, some are more noticeable. One time it even ripped the rim off and stuck in the chamber. That case pushed out super easy with a rod, so it wasn't the ammo's fault. I'm not seeing any difference between Federal or LC brass, and the gas settings aren't fixing it. I've got some ideas, but I'm just going to let Ruger work it out. |
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[Last Edit: backbencher]
[#40]
Are the 20" guns w/ more gas dwell time chewing up less
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[#41]
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[#42]
Originally Posted By backbencher: Are the 20" guns w/ more gas dwell time chewing up less View Quote The brass from my 16" looks pretty much identical to the picture above. I'll post pictures soon. I have a suspicion my issue is a rough chamber. If you look at my first post you will see a borescope of my throat, and it has burrs. My guess is their chamber reamer was beyond it's last legs when they made mine. |
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[Last Edit: lazyengineer]
[#45]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: While digging through the brass I did find some that had some burrs from either the ejector or extractor. Nothing too crazy, and nothing I would worry about. It seems rare, maybe 1 in 50 cases. https://i.ibb.co/3cW89Q5/IMG-20240614-002959994.jpg I'm not seeing any pattern to the brass brand, or load. It just seems to be similar for all of them. I believe it to be a rifle issue. View Quote I do get those burrs decently common, as well. Doesn't appear to affect anything, and at first I though it might be pressure sign - but now I'm not so sure, and it might just be over vigorous extraction rotation- maybe. But I do see that. So far, no issue with my rims, unless overgassed. LC doesn't make 6.5CM brass, so no data on that brand - and as noted FC is a known soft-head brass. |
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[#46]
You might try polishing your chamber.
Tony |
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[Last Edit: fgshoot]
[#47]
Originally Posted By TonyRumore: You might try polishing your chamber. Tony View Quote I'm not going to start down that path. There sure seem to be three kinds of SFAR owners right now. Those who got a perfect one and are happy. Those who got one with problems, and sent them into be fixed and are happy. Those who tried to outsmart the engineer and put in different buffers, and moved the gas port and other nonsense, and are pissed their Frankenstein doesn't work. If nothing else, Ruger needs to see and work on these problems so they are not problems in the future. |
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[#48]
Originally Posted By fgshoot: I'm not going to start down that path. There sure seem to be three kinds of SFAR owners right now. Those who got a perfect one and are happy. Those who got one with problems, and sent them into be fixed and are happy. Those who tried to outsmart the engineer and put in different buffers, and moved the gas port and other nonsense, and are pissed their Frankenstein doesn't work. If nothing else, Ruger needs to see and work on these problems so they are not problems in the future. View Quote |
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[Last Edit: OccasionallyShot]
[#49]
Has anyone successfully cutdown their Creedmoor barrel yet?
I'm wanting to do a 16" - got a spare FF RAS Long and a riflespeed gas block. Local guy is selling a 308 for 750 bucks, allegedly fixed by Ruger at least once. I just refuse to buy a brand new gun to mod the crap out of so might rework the barrel extension or wait for more unhappy SFAR owners to show up. |
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[#50]
Originally Posted By OccasionallyShot: Has anyone successfully cutdown their Creedmoor barrel yet? I'm wanting to do a 16" - got a spare FF RAS Long and a riflespeed gas block. Local guy is selling a 308 for 750 bucks, allegedly fixed by Ruger at least once. I just refuse to buy a brand new gun to mod the crap out of so might rework the barrel extension or wait for more unhappy SFAR owners to show up. View Quote Tromix is making barrels. |
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