User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:23:29 AM EDT
Does anyone have experience in dealing with expanding spray foam from concrete? My new home is almost complete and has spray foam insulation. The concrete was just stained, and is to be epoxy coated, and shows the spray foam pretty badly despite being scrapped off with a razor.
 If anyone has a good solution to remove this so it does not mess up the "creme" layer of concrete, I would greatly appreciate it. My floor guy is going to do some research this weekend. Fall back is to go to a much more metallic epoxy floor that would cover it up and have the GC cover the cost difference since he did not do his due diligence in ensuring the insulators did not do their due diligence. It that can be avoided it would be nice for all of us as we are already months behind in getting to move in. Any and all ideas are welcome  |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:24:56 AM EDT
[#1]
Acetone?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:27:17 AM EDT
[#2]
Gc’s problem with the insulator, not yours at all. You should not have to compromise on what you wanted because of the GC‘s inability to control a job.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:27:59 AM EDT
[#3]
I have no idea but I would contact the manufacturer of the foam to see if they have a solution.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:32:23 AM EDT
[#4]
If acetone doesn't work try kerosene and then WD40
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:32:54 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gc’s problem with the insulator, not yours at all. You should not have to compromise on what you wanted because of the GC‘s inability to control a job. This is where I’m at. The flip side is that th OP will be motivated to do a better job than the lackey sent back by the contractor |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:33:57 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Acetone? That only works well before it's set. You're going to have to scrape it off. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:34:02 AM EDT
[#7]
In theory this is on the GC to make the insulator fix it.
In reality, especially if you paid the foam guy directly, you’ll have to figure it out yourself. Is it too late to consider a LVP floor? It’ll be much easier on your feet. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:37:13 AM EDT
[#8]
The insulator is going to have to pay to have the floor re-polished. It's very likely going to ghost no matter what now. If it had been sealed before it happened you would be a much better spot.
Unsealed concrete is basically a giant sponge, makes it a pain to remove residue and chemicals. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:43:29 AM EDT
[#9]
I used the can spray foam and it bit got on my shoes and pant legs. The solvent in the foam ate away the outside layer of the shoe and 2 years later it is still stuck to the spot on my pant leg. Making it look like it never happened will be impossible. Even if it was sealed prior it still would have left a mark. The solvent in it is impressive and will soak into concrete like water into a sponge.
The question is can reduce it enough to live with it. If not then you will need to redo it and should file a claim against the spray foam company. You might be able to have someone come in to strip everything and redo the stain or you might have to bust out the concrete and start over if you want it perfect. Your easiest option will be to demand a steep discount from the spray foam company and live with it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:50:45 AM EDT
[#10]
I’ve used a product for cleaning foam guns that dissolves the stuff to nothing. It is a different type of foam but I bet the spray foam guys use a similar product to clean their guns. May be worth a shot.
https://www.aquascapeinc.com/products/professional-foam-gun-cleaner |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:57:43 AM EDT
[#11]
Thanks to those that replied so far. It sounds like the GC gets to own it and then can deal with being made whole by the insulation company that sent out the B team.
 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:58:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve used a product for cleaning foam guns that dissolves the stuff to nothing. It is a different type of foam but I bet the spray foam guys use a similar product to clean their guns. May be worth a shot. https://www.aquascapeinc.com/products/professional-foam-gun-cleaner Thanks, I will look into this as an option |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:01:34 AM EDT
[#13]
Any kind of solvent that will dissolve the remaining foam will likely damage the concrete stain as well. It may even inhibit the finish coat, or leave a visible blemish under the finish coat. The only surefire way to fix it is to bead blast the areas where the foam adhered to the concrete, which will remove the stain. Then re-stain the concrete in those areas.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:08:09 AM EDT
[#14]
Edit ok I get it now the home has concrete flooring. Ugggg this is going to suck. The Spray foam guys really Fed up/the CG did for not protecting the floor.
If it's BAD BAD they are probably going to have to sand blast/scrape the top layer. If the stain is mixed won't effect the end look just be a mess. If it's bad bad then I would look at just givign it a true epoxy coat and putting the excess on the CG. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:22:43 AM EDT
[#15]
Since the floor has already been stained, I think any spot treating will look like crap when the treated area is restained.
I am investigating concrete polishing now too, then a complete restain of the the area affected is 1800sf. The upstairs has LVP. Stained concrete was chosen due to country living on a working farm with little kids and a couple of dogs. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:26:39 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Since the floor has already been stained, I think any spot treating will look like crap when the treated area is restained. I am investigating concrete polishing now too, then a complete restain of the the area affected is 1800sf. The upstairs has LVP. Stained concrete was chosen due to country living on a working farm with little kids and a couple of dogs. The best bet for everyone involved from both a financial and stress standpoint is to just upgrade the epoxy like you mentioned and go heavy with the metallic swirl. The GC can backcharge the insulator to cover the difference, you'll be made whole, and it won't slow things down to any substantial degree. Only a moron of an insulator wouldn't plastic a finished floor before spraying, hitting him in the wallet might teach him that lesson. The flooring guy may still have to do some spot treatment on the bad spots to avoid adhesion issues, but it will be much faster than a full re-polish and stain. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:31:55 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The best bet for everyone involved from both a financial and stress standpoint is to just upgrade the epoxy like you mentioned and go heavy with the metallic swirl. The GC can backcharge the insulator to cover the difference, you'll be made whole, and it won't slow things down to any substantial degree. Only a moron of an insulator wouldn't plastic a finished floor before spraying, hitting him in the wallet might teach him that lesson. The flooring guy may still have to do some spot treatment on the bad spots to avoid adhesion issues, but it will be much faster than a full re-polish and stain. Yup they spray foamed my house and laid heavy mil plastic over the entire floor. We sealed concrete. Not polished. Acetone won’t pull the foam. I’d grind the slab with some low grit metals to prep for epoxy. Then bury the stain with a solid product. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:43:22 AM EDT
[#18]
What part of texas are you located in? Might be able to recommend someone who does concrete staining if you want a second opinion on fixing the issue.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:45:23 AM EDT
[#19]
Out in the country south of Tyler, West of Nacogdoches
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:47:25 AM EDT
[#20]
Try some gasoline in a rag
in a small spot And rinse with wet rag |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 11:49:11 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Out in the country south of Tyler, West of Nacogdoches |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 12:10:24 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 12:40:42 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The best bet for everyone involved from both a financial and stress standpoint is to just upgrade the epoxy like you mentioned and go heavy with the metallic swirl. The GC can backcharge the insulator to cover the difference, you'll be made whole, and it won't slow things down to any substantial degree. Only a moron of an insulator wouldn't plastic a finished floor before spraying, hitting him in the wallet might teach him that lesson. The flooring guy may still have to do some spot treatment on the bad spots to avoid adhesion issues, but it will be much faster than a full re-polish and stain. I would recommend finding compromise up front, such as the suggested epoxy finish. The sub would probably be much more willing to pay for the upgrade without a fight, rather than go through all of the legal wrangling of a full repair. You could also price out the upgrade and take a backcharge for the value and live with the imperfection and the deducted cost. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 2:02:05 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 2:16:30 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: He said try xylene to remove it but expect to grind it. He was also shocked they didn't seal it before the insulation as that would have prevented the issue. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you Probably just poor scheduling. Epoxy usually requires a certain amount of cure time on the slab before it can be applied. The GC probably didn't want to break schedule, and the insulator got lazy. Power combo that lead to a fail. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 3:50:41 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Probably just poor scheduling. Epoxy usually requires a certain amount of cure time on the slab before it can be applied. The GC probably didn't want to break schedule, and the insulator got lazy. Power combo that lead to a fail. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you Probably just poor scheduling. Epoxy usually requires a certain amount of cure time on the slab before it can be applied. The GC probably didn't want to break schedule, and the insulator got lazy. Power combo that lead to a fail. I don’t like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I’m not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don’t use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I’m not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn’t make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I’ll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I’ll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we’ll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they’ll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 3:52:50 PM EDT
[#27]
Maybe it can be mildly media blasted in those spots.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 4:06:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Reminds me of a buddy's house. For whatever reason, they painted the trim the wrong color across the entire house. After the reclaimed hardwood floors went in, they had to repaint.
The tape job pulled up the floor's sealant (I guess it was put on too close to the taping) across the entire house. The tape also pulled paint off the cabinets, walls, etc. No matter what they did, they couldn't make it look good again. On top of that, every time they tried to fix it...they dumped all of the old paint, thinner, etc outside the house and killed a ton of his landscaping and sod. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 5:41:14 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don’t like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I’m not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don’t use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I’m not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn’t make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I’ll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I’ll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we’ll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they’ll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you Probably just poor scheduling. Epoxy usually requires a certain amount of cure time on the slab before it can be applied. The GC probably didn't want to break schedule, and the insulator got lazy. Power combo that lead to a fail. I don’t like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I’m not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don’t use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I’m not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn’t make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I’ll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I’ll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we’ll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they’ll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. I don't mess with epoxy. Last place I worked we did a few huge epoxy jobs and had two major fuckups in one year. Once from the pot life being too low, and another from the mixing guy fucking up the ratios. Being the lowest paid guy on crew...it was my job to scrape it back off and get it prepped again. Wasn't my favorite week. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 6:02:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I'm not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don't use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I'm not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn't make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I'll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I'll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we'll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they'll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 6:04:13 PM EDT
[#31]
spray foam is shit. fkn lazy way
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 6:06:13 PM EDT
[#32]
In the future, do the floor after all the other work is done.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 6:11:35 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gc’s problem with the insulator, not yours at all. You should not have to compromise on what you wanted because of the GC‘s inability to control a job. This. Isn't it the builder/contractor's obligation to provide you with the house you paid for? If someone fucked up, it's on them to make it right. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 6:13:20 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: spray foam is shit. fkn lazy way What's your preferred method of insulating? |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 7:24:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What are the prices per sf for polish done like this ? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I don't like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I'm not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don't use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I'm not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn't make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I'll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I'll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we'll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they'll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. Depending on sheen, color(s), distance to job, total footage, access, ect… $5-$8 per sq ft. Assuming an hour from the shop, road and drive Soto the house, 3k sq ft, one color, and minimal saw cut joint fill. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 7:27:18 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't mess with epoxy. Last place I worked we did a few huge epoxy jobs and had two major fuckups in one year. Once from the pot life being too low, and another from the mixing guy fucking up the ratios. Being the lowest paid guy on crew...it was my job to scrape it back off and get it prepped again. Wasn't my favorite week. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Too far east for them to come look at it. Will ask the owner this afternoon for any recommendations. Thank you Probably just poor scheduling. Epoxy usually requires a certain amount of cure time on the slab before it can be applied. The GC probably didn't want to break schedule, and the insulator got lazy. Power combo that lead to a fail. I don’t like installing epoxy until after the drywall is up. But before door jams and cabinets are in. I’m not worried about cure time as most all of our systems start with a pigmented moisture barrier base coat. The only systems we don’t use a moisture barrier is full clear. Just a double coat of polyaspartic clear. I’m not sure why anyone would have dyed the slab without sealing. That doesn’t make sense. Maybe I read that wrong. The only time I’ll dye slabs early, is if we are doing a whole house polish. I’ll polish and finish the slab out starting at two weeks after the pore before the walls are up. Finishing about 3-4 weeks out from the pore. Then we’ll cover the entire slab with Ram board. And they’ll build the entire house on top of it. This saves $5-10 per sq ft on the high sheen polish cost over polishing after walls are in. I don't mess with epoxy. Last place I worked we did a few huge epoxy jobs and had two major fuckups in one year. Once from the pot life being too low, and another from the mixing guy fucking up the ratios. Being the lowest paid guy on crew...it was my job to scrape it back off and get it prepped again. Wasn't my favorite week. I don’t blame anyone that doesn’t do epoxy. It has to be spot on, and it sucks bad when it goes bad. You can’t scrape our epoxies off. Even if there’s a problem. It has to be ground off. I can scrape other peoples off if they don’t shot blast and grind the slab before installing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 7:29:18 PM EDT
[#37]
Rule 1 in construction, the finished floor goes in last. Why wasn't it at least covered?
See rule 1. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 9:33:57 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In theory this is on the GC to make the insulator fix it. In reality, especially if you paid the foam guy directly, you’ll have to figure it out yourself. Is it too late to consider a LVP floor? It’ll be much easier on your feet. What is a LVP floor? |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:05:09 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks, I will look into this as an option Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’ve used a product for cleaning foam guns that dissolves the stuff to nothing. It is a different type of foam but I bet the spray foam guys use a similar product to clean their guns. May be worth a shot. https://www.aquascapeinc.com/products/professional-foam-gun-cleaner Thanks, I will look into this as an option This stuff or maybe MEK would be what I’d probably try. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2024 10:12:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What is a LVP floor? 'Luxury' Vinel Plank |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2024 7:07:12 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In the future, do the floor after all the other work is done. This is the last thing being done. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2024 7:35:43 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is the last thing being done. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: In the future, do the floor after all the other work is done. This is the last thing being done. Yeah, people can't read. You had a bare floor and are doing the staining last. Unfortunately the spray foam hit the untreated concrete. It's another reason to not like the stuff. It hides rot, it makes it impossible to make changes later easily, it's very easy to screw up the mix and not have it cure properly, and it also has to be installed in certain conditions in order to adhere and seal. Builders treat it like it's magic, but it can cause a ton of problems that become very messy and expensive to remedy. It definitely has its places, but for general insulating it's not magic, and really doesn't do anything better than using rock wool, dense pack cellulose, or fiberglass if your builder takes an extra day to air seal the sheathing. That's not even getting into exterior foam board insulation. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2024 11:07:55 AM EDT
[#43]
Update: spoke with the GC this morning and this has only happened in one other case with the foam insulator and they paid for the upgrade cost to the metallic epoxy. GC said they (the GC) will make it right and the only thing will will suffer is it will take a few more days.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2024 11:10:28 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gc’s problem with the insulator, not yours at all. You should not have to compromise on what you wanted because of the GC‘s inability to control a job. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
