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AR15.COM
7/28/2016 2:19:47 PM EDT
Last year, I moved into my first house. On the list of things to do is install a ceiling fan / light in the bedroom. In our old apartment, we had a ceiling fan / light in the bedroom, and it was really nice to have in the summer.

The master-bed-room has a light switch, but it controls a single outlet. Luckily, the outlet is right beside the bed, so we can use it to power an end-table lamp.

Our new house is a single story ranch, and I am able to get up above the bedroom through the attic access-way. I'd love to put in a ceiling fan / light, and I think it would be easy to do since I can get above the room.

I have seen those metal expandable fan-boxes that you can install from inside the room, but since I can get above the ceiling, I'd rather do it a little better than that.

I have a couple questions though.

1.) How do I wire the outlet in with all the others? If it is easiest to leave it on the switch, and just leave it alone, that's fine with me.

2.) How do I wire the light / fan? Our apartment fan / light was actually hard-wired, so you had to use the pull-cords to control it. This really doesn't bother me, so hard-wiring the new one probably isn't a major issue. The other option it to use the switch from the outlet to control it (a simple on / off is fine), but then I'd have to figure out how to wire the outlet.

3.) What is the best way to do a fan box? Bridge the gap between the ceiling joists with 2x4's, and then screw the ceiling fan box right to the bridge pieces? Kinda like the one in the pic below, but have a piece of wood on each side instead of the top?



Any tips or advice you guys can offer?

Thanks!
7/28/2016 3:14:08 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I have seen those metal expandable fan-boxes that you can install from inside the room, but since I can get above the ceiling, I'd rather do it a little better than that. What's wrong with them? They're used quite frequently.

I have a couple questions though.

1.) How do I wire the outlet in with all the others? If it is easiest to leave it on the switch, and just leave it alone, that's fine with me.

You can run 14-2 w/ ground NM-B to the fan. Personally, I'd either install a second switch for the fan, make the switched outlet constant-on and use the switched line for the fan, or find a constant-on feed for the fan.

2.) How do I wire the light / fan? Our apartment fan / light was actually hard-wired, so you had to use the pull-cords to control it. This really doesn't bother me, so hard-wiring the new one probably isn't a major issue. The other option it to use the switch from the outlet to control it (a simple on / off is fine), but then I'd have to figure out how to wire the outlet.
I'd use a fan remote control so you don't need to use the pull cords.

3.) What is the best way to do a fan box? Bridge the gap between the ceiling joists with 2x4's, and then screw the ceiling fan box right to the bridge pieces? Kinda like the one in the pic below, but have a piece of wood on each side instead of the top? No, do not use a pancake box unless you have to. They're more of a pain in the ass than needed unless you absolutely need to use one such as a joist runs dead-center in the room. Personally, even with access from the attic, I used the expandable fan boxes
View Quote

7/28/2016 4:49:09 PM EDT
[#2]
That pancake box is NOT adequate for wire fill.

Get a remote control and hook the fan to a feeder.
Any receptacle in the room that is not switched.

You  go up and into the attic with minimal damage by drilling down from the top.

I usually drill a 1 inch hole in the top plate then use a long flex bit if there is blocking.

Shine a flashlight in the receptacle box and look down into the stud bay from above.
You can often see the top of the box.

The metal braces are better than using wood and screws.
They are far from 'make do.'

The boxes are tack welded and the fasteners are nylon insert locking.
7/28/2016 5:30:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Sorry for probably a dumb question....

So if installing a fan you would not use an existing switched power source (i.e. replacing the existing light fixture)?
7/28/2016 8:56:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
Sorry for probably a dumb question....

So if installing a fan you would not use an existing switched power source (i.e. replacing the existing light fixture)?
View Quote


The bedroom has no light in the ceiling. The on / off switch is connected to an outlet. I am looking to put in a fan & light where there is none at the moment.
7/28/2016 9:15:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Why not run 14-3 from switch location to fan location and install a ceiling fan / light combo switch?
7/28/2016 9:44:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
1.) How do I wire the outlet in with all the others? If it is easiest to leave it on the switch, and just leave it alone, that's fine with me.
are both sides of the outlet switched? Here in Chicago we usually only make half of the outlet switched.
Easiest way to make the outlet constant hot would be to remove the light switch and splice the 2 wires together that were connected to the switch.

2.) How do I wire the light / fan? Our apartment fan / light was actually hard-wired, so you had to use the pull-cords to control it. This really doesn't bother me, so hard-wiring the new one probably isn't a major issue. The other option it to use the switch from the outlet to control it (a simple on / off is fine), but then I'd have to figure out how to wire the outlet.
There are a couple of questions to answer before being able to specifically answer this.
1) Is there a neutral wire present in the switch box?
2) Does your local code allow Romex type wiring or require conduit/MC cable?
3) Does your wiring go up into the attic then across the ceiling or down to the basement and over?


3.) What is the best way to do a fan box? Bridge the gap between the ceiling joists with 2x4's, and then screw the ceiling fan box right to the bridge pieces? Kinda like the one in the pic below, but have a piece of wood on each side instead of the top?
A properly installed fan rated box from home improvement store

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/th/content_26/Q2_2011/c26-B000DCN8ZY-2-l.jpg

Any tips or advice you guys can offer?

Thanks!
View Quote

7/28/2016 11:44:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:


The bedroom has no light in the ceiling. The on / off switch is connected to an outlet. I am looking to put in a fan & light where there is none at the moment.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for probably a dumb question....

So if installing a fan you would not use an existing switched power source (i.e. replacing the existing light fixture)?


The bedroom has no light in the ceiling. The on / off switch is connected to an outlet. I am looking to put in a fan & light where there is none at the moment.



It was specific to my house
Trying to learn
7/29/2016 12:09:03 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:

It was specific to my house
Trying to learn
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for probably a dumb question....

So if installing a fan you would not use an existing switched power source (i.e. replacing the existing light fixture)?


The bedroom has no light in the ceiling. The on / off switch is connected to an outlet. I am looking to put in a fan & light where there is none at the moment.

It was specific to my house
Trying to learn

Ceiling fans have pull chain switches. There's no reason you can't use those as your switches and maintain constant power to the fixture. However, most installations I've seen use a wall switch to control power and then you don't have to cycle through the pull chains or worry about accessing the pull chains of the fan is above furniture.
7/31/2016 12:25:07 PM EDT
[#9]
If it were my house I would :
Remove the switch and make sure it has a neutral
If it does, remove the single box and replace with a 2 gang box if you plan to use a stack switch
If you just want separate switches , use a 3 gang box
Run a 3 conductor wire of the same gauge, usually 14, up to the fan location
Install a fan rated box with a bracket joist-joist with Deck screws
Install the fan & switches

If there is no neutral , either in power to the larger switch box above and wire the same way
Or, run power directly to the fan and use a remote only.
7/31/2016 1:05:09 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I have seen those metal expandable fan-boxes that you can install from inside the room, but since I can get above the ceiling, I'd rather do it a little better than that.
View Quote


here is the "better than that" route: mount a saddle-type fan box directly to the joist, or to an added joist stringer -- these types of boxes will never come loose and typically have plenty of code-compliant space for connections.

ar-jedi






7/31/2016 1:18:29 PM EDT
[#11]
I've used these braces with great success. The bar rolls and tightens against your joists. The triangles on the end sit on top of the drywall in the attic for a perfect height. Run your wires down into the box. The fan hardware mounts to it





8/3/2016 11:32:01 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:

Ceiling fans have pull chain switches. There's no reason you can't use those as your switches and maintain constant power to the fixture. However, most installations I've seen use a wall switch to control power and then you don't have to cycle through the pull chains or worry about accessing the pull chains of the fan is above furniture.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for probably a dumb question....

So if installing a fan you would not use an existing switched power source (i.e. replacing the existing light fixture)?


The bedroom has no light in the ceiling. The on / off switch is connected to an outlet. I am looking to put in a fan & light where there is none at the moment.

It was specific to my house
Trying to learn

Ceiling fans have pull chain switches. There's no reason you can't use those as your switches and maintain constant power to the fixture. However, most installations I've seen use a wall switch to control power and then you don't have to cycle through the pull chains or worry about accessing the pull chains of the fan is above furniture.



Most of my fans use a remote for light dimming and fan speed.  All  the fan needs is unswitched hot, neutral, and ground.  They still have chains, but no need to touch them.
8/3/2016 11:40:22 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:
That pancake box is NOT adequate for wire fill.

Get a remote control and hook the fan to a feeder.
Any receptacle in the room that is not switched.

You  go up and into the attic with minimal damage by drilling down from the top.

I usually drill a 1 inch hole in the top plate then use a long flex bit if there is blocking.

Shine a flashlight in the receptacle box and look down into the stud bay from above.
You can often see the top of the box.

The metal braces are better than using wood and screws.
They are far from 'make do.'

The boxes are tack welded and the fasteners are nylon insert locking.
View Quote


Most modern fans come with expanded bell brackets like this one which have ample room for wire and connection twists:


8/3/2016 6:14:02 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:


Most modern fans come with expanded bell brackets like this one which have ample room for wire and connection twists:

http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Heating-Cooling/replace-a-ceiling-fan-inline-bracket.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
That pancake box is NOT adequate for wire fill.

Get a remote control and hook the fan to a feeder.
Any receptacle in the room that is not switched.

You  go up and into the attic with minimal damage by drilling down from the top.

I usually drill a 1 inch hole in the top plate then use a long flex bit if there is blocking.

Shine a flashlight in the receptacle box and look down into the stud bay from above.
You can often see the top of the box.

The metal braces are better than using wood and screws.
They are far from 'make do.'

The boxes are tack welded and the fasteners are nylon insert locking.


Most modern fans come with expanded bell brackets like this one which have ample room for wire and connection twists:

http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Heating-Cooling/replace-a-ceiling-fan-inline-bracket.jpg


Unless they also have a capacity (volume) permanency marked on them it cannot be counted.
8/3/2016 6:35:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Quoted:

Unless they also have a capacity (volume) permanency marked on them it cannot be counted.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Most modern fans come with expanded bell brackets like this one which have ample room for wire and connection twists:

http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Heating-Cooling/replace-a-ceiling-fan-inline-bracket.jpg

Unless they also have a capacity (volume) permanency marked on them it cannot be counted.

Mine are all stuffed with the remote control receiver so the wires end up in the electrical box anyways.
8/3/2016 10:44:57 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote History
Quoted:

Mine are all stuffed with the remote control receiver so the wires end up in the electrical box anyways.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Most modern fans come with expanded bell brackets like this one which have ample room for wire and connection twists:

http://www.lowes.com/projects/images/how-tos/Heating-Cooling/replace-a-ceiling-fan-inline-bracket.jpg

Unless they also have a capacity (volume) permanency marked on them it cannot be counted.

Mine are all stuffed with the remote control receiver so the wires end up in the electrical box anyways.


YMMV I guess...our fans are remote as well but the receiver was in the motor housing and not the wiring bell.