Posted: 4/5/2015 8:44:49 PM EDT
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I bought a harbor freight 10" drill press, after assembled it, I noticed when I pull down the handle (haven't turn it on yet), the chuck/drill is loose, can move the chuck/drill left/right back/forth about 1/16"? is it defective? how am I suppose to drill a precise hole with this?
if it's defective is there a way to fix this easily? I would hate have to drive back for replacement thanks |
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Is it a taper spindle? May just be the cheap chuck. I bought a Jacobs chuck for my harbor freight drill press. It was horrible with the cheap chinese chuck that came with it. The Jacobs chuck took all the play out of it. My spindle was tight though. yes it's taper spindle, i just hammer chuck up according to instruction. the chuck is solid on the spindle, the problem is the whole spindle/chuck/drill bit wiggles on x-y plane after it's lowed (without power on) |
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Check to make sure the spindle is tight and then seat the Chuck if it is a tapered one. It might of just been stuck in there without seating it.
I just saw your post. I would take it back. Also hit craigslist as they always have a whole bunch of drill presses for cheap there. |
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Not to hijack the thread but there is a Clarke 16 speed, 7.5 amp on CL for sale. Anyone know anything about these? The gal doesnt know much about it and thats all the info she gave me.
Looks like its sold by TSC and is a full standing model. Also has a drill vice included. |
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You're problem is Harbor Freight. The small HF drill presses are great for prepping brass, but lousy for drilling precise holes. OP, check to make sure the chuck is seated well, if so, then return it and consider a good quality floor model. It took me a little while, but I found a nice one on Craigs list for a couple hundred bucks. |
| Yea it's defective. If I need to buy a harbor freight power tool I unbox it at the store and make sure everything is good before I leave and it has saved me a return trip a couple if times. Once I went through their whole stock of woodworking vices and ended up leaving empty handed. The sale price was awesome but not even one of those vices would line up flat. Sad really. |
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Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" thick) with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual |
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don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" thick) with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual Quoted:
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Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" thick) with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual It is for taking the Chuck out of the spindle. You place it in the slot in the spindle and tap on it and the tapered spindle will fall out. |
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don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5"x 3/4"x 1/16") with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual Quoted:
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Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5"x 3/4"x 1/16") with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual Sounds like the drill drift. You would extend the quill out until a slot would show. You would put the drill drift in that slot and tap it to get the chuck out. If you're saying the whole quill is loose then the drill is probably defective. If you take the chuck out and it has about an 1\8 vertical slot on the tool somewhere then there is a key inside the drill quill that slot must match up with. |
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Sounds like the drill drift. You would extend the quill out until a slot would show. You would put the drill drift in that slot and tap it to get the chuck out. If you're saying the whole quill is loose then the drill is probably defective. If you take the chuck out and it has about an 1\8 vertical slot on the tool somewhere then there is a key inside the drill quill that slot must match up with. Quoted:
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Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5"x 3/4"x 1/16") with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual Sounds like the drill drift. You would extend the quill out until a slot would show. You would put the drill drift in that slot and tap it to get the chuck out. If you're saying the whole quill is loose then the drill is probably defective. If you take the chuck out and it has about an 1\8 vertical slot on the tool somewhere then there is a key inside the drill quill that slot must match up with. thanks for the name, I checked out some youtube video now I know how to use that drill drift. the whole quill assembly wiggles, I guess I have to return it 
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It is for taking the Chuck out of the spindle. You place it in the slot in the spindle and tap on it and the tapered spindle will fall out. Quoted:
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Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" thick) with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual It is for taking the Chuck out of the spindle. You place it in the slot in the spindle and tap on it and the tapered spindle will fall out. yeah i got it now thanks |
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I went to get a replacement, turns out to be the same, the quill assembly wiggles after it's lowered
I finally figured out what the problem is and how to fix it, the ball barrings are not the problem since the spindle is fine and what's loose is the whole quill on the left side of the quill assembly, there's a set screw with a nut on it, take off the nut and the screw one can see the internal structure, the screw can be adjusted to make sure the screw's square end fits in the slot on the quill and allow the quill to move with that as guide, thus reduce the movement on x-y plane. after I adjusted that now it's working fine with minimum movement I think that should be in the manual or the HF staff should know about it 
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Quoted: It is for taking the Chuck out of the spindle. You place it in the slot in the spindle and tap on it and the tapered spindle will fall out. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Are you sure there wasn't a key inside the taper and a key way on the chuck? don't understand this question, can you elaborate? there's a long triangle shaped steel tool (about 5" L x 3/4" W x 1/16" thick) with a hole on one end, that I have no idea what it's used for, nor can I find any reference of it in the manual It is for taking the Chuck out of the spindle. You place it in the slot in the spindle and tap on it and the tapered spindle will fall out. |
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Quoted: I went to get a replacement, turns out to be the same, the quill assembly wiggles after it's lowered I finally figured out what the problem is and how to fix it, the ball barrings are not the problem since the spindle is fine and what's loose is the whole quill on the left side of the quill assembly, there's a set screw with a nut on it, take off the nut and the screw one can see the internal structure, the screw can be adjusted to make sure the screw's square end fits in the slot on the quill and allow the quill to move with that as guide, thus reduce the movement on x-y plane. after I adjusted that now it's working fine with minimum movement I think that should be in the manual or the HF staff should know about it |
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yes it's taper spindle, i just hammer chuck up according to instruction. the chuck is solid on the spindle, the problem is the whole spindle/chuck/drill bit wiggles on x-y plane after it's lowed (without power on) Quoted:
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Is it a taper spindle? May just be the cheap chuck. I bought a Jacobs chuck for my harbor freight drill press. It was horrible with the cheap chinese chuck that came with it. The Jacobs chuck took all the play out of it. My spindle was tight though. yes it's taper spindle, i just hammer chuck up according to instruction. the chuck is solid on the spindle, the problem is the whole spindle/chuck/drill bit wiggles on x-y plane after it's lowed (without power on) Maybe you broke it when you hammered it. The instruction actually say to press down on a board to install the chuck. |
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Don't bother with replacing it with Craftsman either.
My Craftsman drill press is IDENTICAL to the same sized HF unit. Down to the casting marks on the body of the machine.. Probably made in the same factory as the HF one, they just slap a Craftsman badge on it and charge $100 more. Researching some products I have found that this happens quite a bit (badge engineering of crappy chinese made products). |
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Yes, have the same press. And I like it for what it is. I've done pinned gas blocks into three salt bath nitride treated barrels with it. Also used 135 degree split point cobalt bits and transfer punches found at HF. Broke through the surface pretty easy on the first two barrels, but the third was a little more stubborn. I think three Melonited barrels is about the life of their Cobalt bit. |
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I went to get a replacement, turns out to be the same, the quill assembly wiggles after it's lowered I finally figured out what the problem is and how to fix it, the ball barrings are not the problem since the spindle is fine and what's loose is the whole quill on the left side of the quill assembly, there's a set screw with a nut on it, take off the nut and the screw one can see the internal structure, the screw can be adjusted to make sure the screw's square end fits in the slot on the quill and allow the quill to move with that as guide, thus reduce the movement on x-y plane. after I adjusted that now it's working fine with minimum movement I think that should be in the manual or the HF staff should know about it IMO that adjustment screw is a poor substitute for a properly-fitting quill in the head casting. Many things can be tweaked on cheap imports to make them work properly--this isn't one of them. |
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Don't bother with replacing it with Craftsman either. My Craftsman drill press is IDENTICAL to the same sized HF unit. Down to the casting marks on the body of the machine.. Probably made in the same factory as the HF one, they just slap a Craftsman badge on it and charge $100 more. Researching some products I have found that this happens quite a bit (badge engineering of crappy chinese made products). Needed a cheap router a year ago, bought one at Lowes', whatever their house brand is.... Blue something? Anyway, a friend asked me to pick him up something at HF, and their router was EXACTLY the same one, except the injection-molded plastic pieces were different colors. |
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spindle came assembled, I don't know what else I do about it, unless I open the internal up Quoted:
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Check to make sure the spindle is tight and then seat the Chuck if it is a tapered one. It might of just been stuck in there without seating it. spindle came assembled, I don't know what else I do about it, unless I open the internal up You'll need a machine shop to fix the drill press, so take it back. |
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Maybe you broke it when you hammered it. The instruction actually say to press down on a board to install the chuck. Quoted:
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Is it a taper spindle? May just be the cheap chuck. I bought a Jacobs chuck for my harbor freight drill press. It was horrible with the cheap chinese chuck that came with it. The Jacobs chuck took all the play out of it. My spindle was tight though. yes it's taper spindle, i just hammer chuck up according to instruction. the chuck is solid on the spindle, the problem is the whole spindle/chuck/drill bit wiggles on x-y plane after it's lowed (without power on) Maybe you broke it when you hammered it. The instruction actually say to press down on a board to install the chuck. nope, 10" instruction manual clearly says, firmly tap the arbor/chuck with rubber mallet not to mention the replacement one, as well as all the display models in the store, have similar issue to various degree, the only one that is tight and smooth costs $580 |