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I agree the guy who made the video is a douchebag but what do you have against Titebond? I didn't bother to watch the video, for reasons in my post above, but which Titebond did he use?
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All I heard was titebond was used on everything. If he mentioned the exact kind / type I did not catch it.
Could tell instantly by how spotlessly clean his shop was that he was not and has never been a real woodworker of any sort. His 'test' in the video confirmed as much.
Obviously you will use different glues for different applications (what exactly you are gluing together, how much working time do you want, what do want to be able to clean it up with, etc.) but...
For the little sample corners he was using there are many, many choices that would have made for a much stronger joint. He did show close up shots of each of the joints after the 'failures / breakages' and one thing that was fairly common among all of them was how (most of) the joints themselves were still fairly intact and looked as if they could have possibly been put back together again except for the broken fasteners in each type.
Example: The joint with the dominoes broke the heck out of the dominoes but the butt joint itself was still fairly undamaged. Yeah it needed a tiny little bit to clean it up (glue residue mostly) before a guy could reassemble it but it was not at all mangled beyond being able to clean it up and go again. Same with the dowel pinned butt joint, same with the regular butt joint, same with the pockethole joints.
None of that titebond he was using really soaked into those wood pores DEEP and caused the breakage to happen somewhere other than the actual joint... Not to mention that it took every joint he did forever to dry AND forgetting about the fact that he was working in a nice and comfy climate controlled shop. I wonder if he takes his Titebond inside his house with him during the colder months or just leaves the heat on in his tiny little shop to protect it from freezing. (cause that stuff IS definitely ruined if it ever freezes. There is no 'letting it thaw out' and then it somehow being 'good again' after that.)
Temperature stuff might not matter so much in a really small shop that a guy could keep climate controlled all the time so his glues (and materials) are not frozen. Depending on where you are season wise and how many square feet of space a guy is trying to control the climate in might be really cheap (small space in a zone that never really gets cold) or really, really expensive (larger space in a zone that has all 4 seasons and does get below freezing on occasion).
I freaking hate the cold.
I gave this stuff a shot a few years back and have slowly come around to getting hooked on it.
https://thebuilderssupply.com/richelieu-loctite-glue-ur-series-hkur20400First bottle for me was the UR 2 and was tested by gluing the joint together for 2 minutes and then trying to break it.
That wood DID eventually break after repeatedly being thrown at the floor but when it did eventually break it was a noticeably bit back away from the actual joint.
After a few years of playing with it I buy that crap by the case now in the 2 and 10 flavors.
Cabinet doors is a good example here for something I would use the UR 2 for. For me, it takes about 2 minutes to assemble a 5 piece door, take the first one out of the clamping table and then clamp the newly assembled parts up. No waiting for anything to 'set' or dry. Those joints are solid and you can do whatever you want to them as soon as they come out of the clamps.
The UR 10 gives you pretty much 10 minutes of time until you are done. Their numbers are pretty much spot on in my experience so far.
Does not freeze (viscosity changes yes but working time changes no), easy to prevent unwanted sticking with how you handle different surfaces, easy to clean up using the proper solvents...