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Posted: 10/28/2004 5:38:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Nope, personal use, don't mind at all. But I get a little hot under the collar when they are mass produced and sold through an internet auction site. If anyone needs help with a specific step in their build let me know. |
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Posted: 10/31/2004 7:10:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Can somone refresh the pics or just email me the pics and other info at [email protected]. Thanks.
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Posted: 11/3/2004 6:57:04 AM EDT
[#3]
Could I also please get the pics emailed to me if that is possible....
I am wanting them for my own use only and I will not reproduce them in any way what so ever......for some dirtbag to try and make money off of QUIB's good nature is low..there are better words to describe the person but I try my best to not use that language.... Thank you...,Russell [email protected] |
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Posted: 11/3/2004 2:30:49 PM EDT
[#4]
Ditto [email protected] (Pleeezzzz  )
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Posted: 11/3/2004 5:14:56 PM EDT
[#5]
[email protected] |
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Posted: 11/11/2004 6:05:51 PM EDT
[#6]
I am currently amassing any info/pics to help in my two AK builds I am getting undeway. If you would out of the kindness of your heart email the pics to - [email protected] , I solemmly swear not to sell them!
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Posted: 11/12/2004 10:43:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Ditto on the pic request and the oath not to profit or anything wrong with them.
[email protected] Thanks, Chad |
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Posted: 11/12/2004 1:28:35 PM EDT
[#8]
I'd like to get those pictures also. PLEASE email them to me too!
I swear to NEVER profit in any way from someone elses hard work. Getting sick and tired of the way people are so damned disrespectfull these days. AK_Sobo |
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Posted: 12/4/2004 3:03:08 PM EDT
[#9]
Hello I am new at this ti could please e-mail me the pic's also they will only go as far as me thank you very much. [email protected]
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Posted: 12/18/2004 10:04:50 AM EDT
[#10]
Could someone email me the pics too? I dont want to try my luck on my build and I need all the help I can get.
Joe |
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Posted: 12/18/2004 10:32:27 AM EDT
[#11]
Guys, I re-posted the pics on pg.1
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Posted: 2/8/2005 10:07:03 AM EDT
[#12]
I don't know if you even check this anymore, but if you do, what pitch of thread are the 6mm screws? The only ones I could find are M6x1.0 I'm sure you know this is a fairly coarse thread and does not seem to have a lot of thread surface to engage. I may try them. If they don't work, I'll go to 1/4x28.
Thanks, Kris |
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Posted: 2/8/2005 5:45:06 PM EDT
[#13]
My taps are 6mm-1.0mm and 5mm-.80mm. I only used the 6mm tap for the most forward screw in the front trunnion because of the hole diameter. The rest of the screws are 5mm. I don't remember how many threads I ended up with in the trunnion at that position, but it wasn't so few to raise concerns at the time. I have some 1/4-28 AN aircraft bolts out in my shop, compairing the 6mm and 1/4-28 side by side I don't see that much of a difference in TPI.
Enjoy your build! 
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Posted: 2/9/2005 5:07:44 PM EDT
[#14]
Good post, now I need to start on this new hobby
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Posted: 4/8/2005 8:06:37 AM EDT
[#15]
Dammit you're going to force me to build one of these aint 'cha!?!?!?
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Posted: 4/8/2005 10:22:51 AM EDT
[#16]
Hey man, I aint be forcen' nobody!  It's a sickness! I was infected and now I guess you are too!!!!  But seriously, it was quite simple and fun actually. I got a lot of satisfaction from building my own AK74, and quite a few people simply can’t believe it’s a BIY! If you need any tips or have questions along the way don’t hesitate to IM or email me, I’ll try and help out if I can. Good luck! Quib |
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Posted: 4/11/2005 1:26:14 PM EDT
[#17]
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Posted: 4/12/2005 12:46:37 PM EDT
[#18]
It's all right there in bold at the very beginning of my post on Pg. 1! |
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Posted: 4/12/2005 1:23:09 PM EDT
[#19]
I am getting ready to tackle a Yugo M70...........I think.
 What about rivets?? Do you have to remove the barrel from the trunion to get the rivets back in? How do you rivet one together??
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Posted: 4/23/2005 6:15:34 PM EDT
[#20]
Gents,
Silly question.....if the trunnion and tang were originally rivited together and not meant to be disassembled easily, why not spot weld them on to the receiver for a "pretty permanent" connection from the start and not fool around with the drilling and tapping and screwing and lock tighting??? It seems you should be able to have a really nice smooth receiver side and trouble free operation for life. I'm betting you can still heat treat with Kasenit and not affect the receiver....has anyone tried it and if so, what were the results......or is this a really bad idea??? Thanks, Joe |
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Posted: 4/23/2005 7:51:17 PM EDT
[#21]
There have been quite a few discuccions about this. You wouldn't want to do a spot weld because of the different thickness of the receiver and the trunion. You'd basically end up burning a hole in your receiver. Plus you'd still have to get the barrel out to spot weld the front. You don't have ot get the barrel out for a screw build. People HAVE used mig/tig welding to accomplish this with some very mice looking results.
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Posted: 4/23/2005 8:29:19 PM EDT
[#22]
Having not built an AK with screws, I can say this. The failure mode of a screw in this type of an application is not a stear failure, it will be a fatigue failure. A rivet is smooth on the outside more or less. A screw has a v-groove running around it, after enough load-unloading cycles a small crack will devolope and the shear area will get smaller and smaller and then the head will pop off. If you compared the root diameter of the screw to the rivet, the scear area is probably close to the same, but having a long stress riser negates that. I'ts infact alot worse. Having a rolled screw helps some what as it was cold worked and because of this has less sharp corners as opposed to a screw made on a lathe.
Another false pretense I read about deals with the size and bearing area of the hole. If you look at a rivet, it is bearing the load on all the surface area in contact with the plates, but a screw is only making contact at the tops of the threads, effectively reducing the area in contact and increasing the pressure. Because of this reduced contact area the holes might have a tendancy to wallow out. Once the holes get oversized it will only be a matter of time for the gun to fall apart. A rivet will expand out and fill the entire hole, and if worked hot also contract and pull the plates together. A screw will have some clearance in the hole and unless all the stress in distrubuted equally, once screw will have a much higher load than all the others. So unless you have every hole drilled and aligned perfectly, the chance of failure is still high. If you look at screws, they are almost always used in tension, never shear. A screw that is designed for use in shear should have a shoulder. I am sure that lots of guns have been built this way, but from an engineering stand point, this is the improper aplication of a machine screw and given enough cycles it will fail. It just might take a long time-- long enough for the point to be moot, but I supppose you have to decide that for yourselves. Sorry for the long post, thought you guys might be interested. |
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Posted: 4/24/2005 4:52:28 AM EDT
[#23]
As an engineering school drop-out, I probably used the wrong term for "spot weld". What I was intending to suggest is that on each side is to punch or drill 6-8, 1/8" holes in the frame at points that will allow you to MIG weld and cool the "spot" before going on to the next. This will pretty well attach the frame to the trunion on both sides in a semi-permanent fashion. By alternating sides and allowing "cool to the touch" before the next weld, it seems you would not appreciably affect the heat treating of the trunnion or barrel and there would be no reason to remove the barrel. The tang seems to be less of a problem with heat treating, but should be done in the same fashion.
Right or wrong, I've always believed that rivets get their strength from numbers and the fact that they "tighten" the bond each time one is bucked in place. Welding in the fashion suggested should provide a similar way of joining AK parts together without the drill and tap method and would be at least equal to the steel rivet method in strength and longivity. I'm not discounting or suggesting that the drill and tap is not a good method for assembly, only that since the Laser cut receivers must be welded anyway, it just seems easier to weld the whole thing together, grind/polish, finish and be done. I'm certainly no expert here and am only trying to get opinions, spark discussion and learn from others!! Thanks for your comments!!! |
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Posted: 5/7/2005 7:31:41 AM EDT
[#24]
Nice job QUIB, I'm still thinking about my first AK build. I've done some research and spent a lot of time here on this forum, and sometimes I'm all excited about building an AK, and then I think I can't do this. I've worked on SKS', replaced firing pins etc. and worked on handguns, computers, cars, and motorcycles, so I have some mechanical ability but just not sure about completely building an AK. But pictures and descriptions like yours will be a big help if I decide to try a build. I don't really have the tools or the money to get the tools for a rivet build, so If I do try to build an AK, it will be with screws. BTW, would your pictures and instructions work on an AK47 as well?
Thanks |
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Posted: 5/8/2005 6:31:36 AM EDT
[#25]
Sure you can, it’s not that difficult, have some faith buddy! We we’ll help you out if you have questions!
Sounds like you have all the mechanical experience required! If you can drill out a rivet and tap threads then you can build an AK!
This technique will work with 5.45mm as well as 7.62 AK’s. If you need additional photos or have questions just ask! There are also plenty of experienced builders here on the board who are way more knowledgeable than me, who would gladly answer questions! Now what are you waiting for? I want to see a post from RBrownAR15 saying: "My new AK build range report, pics included!" 
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Posted: 5/8/2005 10:35:12 AM EDT
[#27]
I haven’t kept up with prices on AK kits since I finished my build, so I’m not sure if $140 is a fair price or not for that de-mil’d kit. Better to ask that question on the board.
As far as the OOW receiver goes, that’s the brand I used for my build and had no problems other than the receivers are slightly long. This effected the fit of my AK’s top cover, which I ever so lightly bent outward to obtain a tighter fit. The cover was not going to pop off, but the slight gap annoyed me and bending the cover to fit was not a problem. Check the tacked thread which reviews each of the receiver manufactures and the receivers they offer. It’s a good review and points out the +’s and -’s of each receiver. Edited to add: I read through your post again. If that fellow is offering you the complete kit with US compliant parts, then $140 might not be so bad. But still, ask the others what they think about the price. |
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Posted: 5/13/2005 4:57:35 PM EDT
[#28]
There was a post on screw building over on gunco I think. The guy said that he'd done 4 builds and broken taps on 3 of them. Did you have any problems with breaking taps?
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Posted: 5/14/2005 1:47:17 AM EDT
[#29]
Didn’t break a single tap! The secret is to ensure you have the proper diameter hole to start, use plenty of lubrication and go SLOW! Backing out the tap as you go along helps keep the tap free of metal shavings which can lead to binding and broken taps or damaged threads. |
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Posted: 5/27/2005 10:21:38 AM EDT
[#30]
I just finished my first screw build. Never used a tap before in my life. Didn't break any either. Like everyone says, go slow and back the tap off often. I used a lot of oil also. You can feel when the tap starts to twist- don't push it. All the holes turned out great. On the front trunion holes, I used taper, plug, and bottoming taps I got from fixrfxr or someone like that off gunco classifieds. He also sells drill bits of the appropriate size. You can get everything from him for extreemely reasonable prices and he'll walk you through the whole thing.
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Posted: 7/14/2005 6:38:12 PM EDT
[#31]
So, back from the dead.
Is there a step-by-step out there somewhere? Or do I just wing it after I get the rivets removed? 
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Posted: 7/22/2005 5:57:20 PM EDT
[#32]
Question once you have done the screw build what is to stop you from down the road swithing it out to rivets?
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Posted: 7/31/2005 7:29:29 AM EDT
[#33]
Dr. zero-In my case Loctite.
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Posted: 8/5/2005 10:16:41 PM EDT
[#34]
pics
?
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Posted: 8/14/2005 7:30:43 PM EDT
[#35]
A sticky thread with just a bunch of red X's.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 4:33:17 AM EDT
[#36]
kind of a let down lol.
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Posted: 8/20/2005 1:06:28 PM EDT
[#37]
I just started my first build form a 80% receiver and am finding this site useful...with pics.
www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6806 |
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Posted: 8/23/2005 12:37:14 PM EDT
[#38]
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Posted: 8/25/2005 7:26:43 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 9/6/2005 6:13:33 AM EDT
[#40]
^^^Bump^^^
Pics are re-posted! |
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Posted: 9/7/2005 3:06:04 AM EDT
[#41]
Hi Quib, good post.
Some people are totally against using screws. Not me. I even like the way they look. The allen head screws actually give the gun a more refined look opposed to rivets. |
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Posted: 9/16/2005 1:09:58 PM EDT
[#42]
Quick question, but do you thread the trunion holes only or are the receiver holes (that line up with the trunion holes) threaded also?
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Posted: 9/17/2005 2:26:26 AM EDT
[#43]
The receiver itself is too thin to accept threads.
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Posted: 9/23/2005 10:12:52 PM EDT
[#44]
Someone tell me what's wrong with this idea (and that is all it is, an idea):
For the two top/front holes, tap them, and then install screws, from the*inside* (heads next to barrel, threaded ends poking *out*). Tighten, and locktite the screws in place. Spread the receiver enough to pop the screws into it. Put nuts over the protruding screws. (Either cap-nuts, or regular nuts, with the screw threads cut so that they don't protrude.) This technique would provide the "squeezing" effect obtained from rivets as well as the advantages of screws. For the rear/bottom hole, put screw in from outside, and then place a thin "jam-nut" over it on the inside (after cutting as necessary to allow it to clear the metal on the trunion). The rear-bottom screws would be flathead/countersunk, so that they would press into the countersunk holes in the trunion (after pressing the sheet metal to fit). This would enhance the shear-strength, and, provide more positive positioning/indexing to the countersunk hole. Is this a dumb idea? |
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Posted: 9/27/2005 12:38:35 PM EDT
[#45]
Well i am on my way last night I got 4 rivets out and tonight will work on the others. I slowly drilled them out and picked at what was left until I had the holes looking clear. I have access to a brake to bend the flat and will do that tomorrow. If that is all done why do I need to get the barrel pin out. Don't I just start assembly of barrel/front trunnion into reciever? I have screws for a screw assembly but still need to get the correct taps.
Chinook3 |
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Posted: 9/27/2005 4:32:23 PM EDT
[#46]
I have access to a bending brak also, Is there a way you can take pictures during the proccess? All the research I have done and NO ONE has shown how to do it on a brake. |
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Posted: 9/27/2005 6:38:57 PM EDT
[#47]
Guys, I’m going to have to pull these pics down. My photo hosting site, Photobucket has sent me an email warning to suspend my account due to excessive band width. I will keep the pics up till Friday evening, 30 Sept 05. Copy what you wish to your hard drives. I believe this post has more than served it’s usefulness. Good luck with your builds. Quib |
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Posted: 9/27/2005 8:39:34 PM EDT
[#48]
Quib, if you'd like I can stick them in my AR15.com photo server album and give you the updated links. Let me know! |
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Posted: 9/27/2005 8:44:50 PM EDT
[#49]
Sure, if you want. Email me the links. |
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Posted: 9/28/2005 5:08:24 AM EDT
[#50]
Pics will remain up. Many thanks to ARFCOM Member Gloftoe for hosting them!
Quib |
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