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Posted: 10/23/2006 9:50:33 AM EDT
[#1]
the corrosive stuff is all i shoot out of my PSL, and Nagants,... just clean the damn thing after you shoot it,.. same with AK's just clean after you shoot the corrosive ammo,.. it is not hard.
i use to shoot only NC ammo,.. but you know,.. that shit gets expensive,.. perfect example,.. the 148gr Wolf,.. about 35 bucks per hunderd,.. for 880 rds it would come to just over 300 dollars,.. now some real Russian surplus,.. is about 100 bucks per 880rd crate,.. hell even the 7n1 is cheaper than the NC ammo,.. and the 7n1 is the sniper ammo. now i will tell you if i am shooting NC ammo,.. i will go a about a thousand rounds or so between cleanings,...it is nice to be able to do that,.. but not when there is ammo available at 1/3 the price. cleaning is easy,... i remove the stocks,. field strip,. and toss everything in the tub,.. i fill the tub with hot soapy water and scrub everything,..dain the water,. and turn on the shower head and run hot water over everything,... then i take everything into my gun room and use a can of compressed air (like the ones to clean a keyboard) to blow out the excess water,.. then i spray everything with break Free CLP,.. wipe eveything down with the CLP then use the same can of compressed air to blow out the excess CLP,.. reassemble the rifle and then function check the rifle before if gets put away,.. i tell you it is about as hard as wipeing your ass after you take a dump. also when i first moved up to PA i had one of those little gun lockers that was kept up in the attic over the garage,...now in the summertime here it does not get that hot or humid here,..but it was enough to have rust form on all the firearms i had in that locker. so even without corrosive ammo your stuff can rust. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 9:53:46 AM EDT
[#2]
I just died a little inside.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 10:07:10 AM EDT
[#3]
Well if we're getting into the baseless generalization schoool of internet argument, I'll counter with, "Only a goof can't grasp the concept of proper cleaning after firing corrosive ammo". I'll add to that, "Only a daddy warbucks can afford NOT to use cheap and easily available surplus corrosive ammo for blasting". When surplus 7.62x54 is $70/800, steel cased "non corrosive" is $5/20, and US production is $14/20, a guy could use Perrier to rinse the action and still have enough savings left over to take the little lady down to Cracker Barrel. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 10:16:31 AM EDT
[#4]
I got my x54 from Ammunitionstore.com. I've had very good luck in my rifles with the Czech silver tip. AIMsurplus.com has the same. Comes sealed in a can inside a nice wooden case. Mine is the 60's vintage, and it's quite accurate. No hangfires, no duds, no stuck cases. Seems to be loaded a little lighter than the copper washed Wolf NC stuff I played with, so it doesn't put my shoulder into next week.  Gotta get a PSL, this stuff is just stacking up with trying to put it all down Mosins!
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Posted: 10/23/2006 10:16:39 AM EDT
[#5]
OUCH!
Ive had that happen with a Mosin once while camping. Shot it in the morning, and the following evening went to clean the rifle before packing up and going home... Ran into a rusty MESS... At least it wasr, still sucks though... 
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Posted: 10/23/2006 10:45:44 AM EDT
[#6]
It depends on what you shoot. Some surplus corrosive cartridges are readily and cheaply available and some aren't. If you buy surplus 7.62x51 or 5.56x45 you'll probably never encounter corrosive ammo. If you buy 7.62x39, probably 80% is non-corrosive. Apparently there is plenty of corrosive 5.45x39 around. Surplus 30-06 is often corrosive. Surplus 8mm and 7.62x54R are almost always corrosive. 7.5 Swiss is never corrosive. People make a big deal out of it and act like you'll ruin your rifles by shooting it, but it's just BS. If you clean your rifle afterward you'll be just fine. Non-corrosive ammo is a relatively recent phenomenon. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 11:39:08 AM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 10/23/2006 11:39:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Yep, non-corrosive is fairly new as far as the history of firearms goes. I bet them cowboys didn't worry about it too much. Some people shoot black powder guns; pretty goofy, huh? |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 12:43:14 PM EDT
[#9]
That's exactly why I never use it.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 1:25:16 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 10/23/2006 3:26:35 PM EDT
[#11]
it looks like you used corrosive nails with that hammer and didn't clean it
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Posted: 10/23/2006 3:30:24 PM EDT
[#12]
Obviously this was FAKED, probably by Karl Rove.....
We all know that you can WELD an AK shut, and it will still work. 
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Posted: 10/23/2006 3:34:30 PM EDT
[#13]
The suppressor explains a lot about the corrosion back in the action. I've shot corrosive before and never had a complete melt down like that.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 3:35:58 PM EDT
[#14]
You sir are a TROLL. While not quite there yet you are reaching near the FUCKTARD status. There is alot easier ways to make your point with out calling people goofs and cheaps and so forth. Ive shot Corrsive ammo for a long time through surplus rifles and properly cleaned they have never rusted. As for BigBore... Lessoned learned Im sure. Please get off his nuts. Thank you WarDawg |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 3:36:52 PM EDT
[#15]
I was going to say something like that 
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Posted: 10/23/2006 4:43:34 PM EDT
[#16]
Once I saw the extent of the corrosion in the gun, I would have flooded it with Kroil and let it soak a day before disassembling it.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 5:22:59 PM EDT
[#17]
Hey BigBore,
Lets see some pics after you've cleaned her up. I am curious to see how pitted it was. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 5:25:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Yikes
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Posted: 10/23/2006 5:26:31 PM EDT
[#19]
What he said! 
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Posted: 10/23/2006 5:43:43 PM EDT
[#20]
  it will work again |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 6:06:11 PM EDT
[#21]
'You gotta use that old stinky GI bore cleaner and clean it 3 days straight'
You do not. As already stated, there are several quick and effective methods for neutralizing the corrosive salts from these primers. In addition, a properly lubed rifle will be much more corrosion-resistant than a dry one. Those who won't shoot corrosive ammo in their AKs and Mosin-Nagants are missing out on some cheap fun for no good reason. All in the world you have to do is carry a spray bottle of Ballistol and distilled water (10:1 water:Ballistol) to the range and wash down the whole gun with it, inside and out after shooting. That buys you time to clean and oil it with your usual stuff later (when the water dries off, Ballistol lube is left behind). If you don't like that, then use black powder solvent. The Windex sounds good, and good old soap and water, even in the shower as posted earlier, is a sure-fire prevention. There is no reason for an AK to ever show any ill effects from corrosive ammo. The example that started this thread is simply a gross example of either ignorance or laziness, possibly both. I bet he never does that again. You never put a gun away after shooting corrosive ammo without a thorough cleaning and oiling. I shot box after box of Chinese LC-52 in my M1 Carbine, not knowing it was corrosive. I never saw any rust or other sign of corrosion in it at all (including in the gas piston area), and I still have it. I didn't use anything special, but I always cleaned and oiled it after a shooting session. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 6:29:41 PM EDT
[#22]
Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? I know of a few telco offices using it in remote locations, but no gun experiences. www.bull-frog.com/products/#emitters |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 6:39:08 PM EDT
[#23]
After cleaning did any of the rusting affect headspace ?
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Posted: 10/23/2006 7:08:21 PM EDT
[#24]
No It didnt affect the headspace it actually cleaned up nicley. The long term prognosis is that it will live a full and happy life. Bigbore is in the proscess of giving it a Special ADCO Makeover. Stay tuned.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 7:14:36 PM EDT
[#25]
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Posted: 10/23/2006 7:59:46 PM EDT
[#26]
I do something similar. The only corrosive ammo I use so far is for my Mosin Nagant in 7.62x54r, and for it I have a tupperware container with patches soaking in a Windex solution. I just run a few of those through the barrel, and use a few more to wipe down other surfaces of the rifle - then dry & clean/lube as normal. It makes it quick & easy.   |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 9:16:13 PM EDT
[#27]
I clean my Rifle exactly the same way after shooting Corrosive, except when it comes to the drying part. It's more convenient to throw all the Parts(except for the Wood or Plastic Furniture) in a Oven preheated to around 120dg. for about 20 minutes, then take out the parts let them cool and wipe down with CLP. |
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Posted: 10/23/2006 11:21:54 PM EDT
[#28]
i just use Hopps #9 after shooting my Mosin Nagant and never have an issue with rust at all.
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Posted: 10/23/2006 11:56:21 PM EDT
[#29]
My Nagants are the only thing I shot corosive ammo in and I clean them that day and have had no problems.
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Posted: 10/28/2006 3:45:42 AM EDT
[#30]
What A Shitty Rifle!
Another reason to not buy anything but milspec ak's built from military parts kits!! |
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Posted: 10/28/2006 7:23:56 AM EDT
[#31]
What? |
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Posted: 10/28/2006 5:40:31 PM EDT
[#32]
W A S R What A Shitty Rifle! |
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Posted: 10/29/2006 6:55:03 AM EDT
[#33]
+10 on the Ballistol. Used it for years on corrosive ammo with no issues.
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Posted: 10/29/2006 8:01:28 AM EDT
[#34]
bigbore, thanks for posting the pics and info. You should send those to a site like Surplusrifle.com for illustration on what happens if you *don't* clean a rifle promptly after shooting corrosive.
I shoot corrosive 7.62x54R all the time out of my Mosin Nagants. I always bring Windex, Hoppes, and gun oil to the range to clean up afterwards. I live in a fairly dry climate, so I don't go to the trouble to use the hot water technique, but I don't think it's a bad idea. After 1000+ rounds in several rifles, I've had no problems. I won't shoot corrosive out of semis because of the extra cleaning detail involved. I know that it's done, just not the thing for me. jm |
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Posted: 10/29/2006 2:41:43 PM EDT
[#35]
BTW, that hammer you got in one of the pics looks like it hammered some corrosive nails, LOL
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Posted: 10/29/2006 2:52:45 PM EDT
[#36]
Bigbore - I assume you did this on purpose? If so, very cool.
IIRC, you did the torture test on the Glock - think we could see on featuring an AK? Thanks for taking the time to do this, to demonstrate the effects of corrosive ammo on a rifle. |
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Posted: 10/29/2006 3:44:48 PM EDT
[#37]
Havent had a 5.45 caliber AK yet...I saw Aimsurplus has the 5.45 "Wasp" ammo at what looks like a decent price packed in "sardine" cans. So that ammo is corrosive?
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Posted: 10/29/2006 6:11:23 PM EDT
[#38]
Then someone explain to me how the thing has worked for years with corrosive ammo without problems. Nor did it have a problem working in the humid jungles of SE Asia. SO where is the truth.
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Posted: 10/29/2006 6:57:17 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 10/30/2006 4:11:07 AM EDT
[#40]
I honestly think its the low grade civilian rifles that have this rusting problem. I've seen milspec ak's in many, many conditions of bad and there was never anything like this. I vote the corrosion is so bad because its a civilian ak made out of cheaper metal that rusts easier. |
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Posted: 10/31/2006 9:29:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Guys:
It has been a LONG time since my organic chemistry classes, but I think you can skip the Windex/ammonia portion of your cleaning routine. Rust is caused by the hydrophilic salt residue created by the primer compound. Those corrosive salts are neutralized by water. The Windex works because it's primarily water. If the added ammonia has any value, I suppose it assists as a cleaner of the carbon based residue of the combustion process. I think you would be better served by using plain soapy water. |
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Posted: 10/31/2006 9:33:04 PM EDT
[#42]
Are the AKs we buy really cheaper and "lower grade" than the military rifles?
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Posted: 11/1/2006 4:08:58 AM EDT
[#43]
I am thinking there is more to this.
There is even rust on the hammer that is in the photo. Some people just don't tace good care of their tools. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 7:29:01 AM EDT
[#44]
Agreed, that's what I've always read too. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 8:59:07 AM EDT
[#45]
Um, most of the AKs we buy are kit built and are made WITH ACTUAL military parts.
+1 on there's no reason for Windex or ammonia. If fact there's no reason for anything but regular Hoppe's 9 as long as you do it within a few hours and are thorough. There's no extra steps or chemicals needed for corrosive ammo. You've just got to clean it and be thorough when you do. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 9:36:24 AM EDT
[#46]
I think the OP should be arrested and put on Trial for crimes against humanity!!
we should drag his ass to the U.N. and let koffi annan be the judge! this is the greatest travesty since they cancelled the original startrek!! 
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Posted: 11/1/2006 10:03:19 AM EDT
[#47]
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Posted: 11/1/2006 10:54:48 AM EDT
[#48]
+1 I've done very casual testing and have come up with the same reuslt as this: www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp All ammonia does is stink. Boiling water is the best way I've found to remove corrosive material, but two minutes worth of running water will also work. I shoot lots of C&R guns and I use lots of corrosive ammo. You don't need Hoppe's #9, ammonia, Windex, or anything like that. Just wash it away with water. Too easy. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 1:23:09 PM EDT
[#49]
I didn't think WASR's or SAR's were made with any kind of military parts kits. Granted century does make some guns from parts kits, but they still use a lot of their own internals and parts. Considering I've only seen rust this bad on a WASR, and never on a military AK, I'm inclined to believe its the quality of the gun. Hell, maybe its just WASR's period. I know I saw a SAR that went through katrina underwater and soaking for some time and it wasn't this bad. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 1:46:40 PM EDT
[#50]
What you see in those pictures is the "worst case" damage from an improperly maintained firearm after using corrosive ammo. Build quality may have something to do with it, but I don't think it's the primary culprit. |
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