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How about pictures of firearms refinished in GK dark earth brown?
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Maybe this one's a little better? |
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Thanks. Looks good How close is it to the Magpul coyote? It looks like it almost matches in both of your pics, but in another pic somebody posted it looked a couple shades lighter. |
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Zardoz,
How did you like that stuff? Was it easy to use? With dealer discount its dirt cheap. - G |
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That rifle looks hot! -G |
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Quick question for Gazukull. Where did you get that helmet pictured in the very first picture of the thread?
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It' didn't match the Magpul at all. The Magpul was much lighter, more of a tan. Now it's a perfect match! I sprayed it yesterday. Now if I only had a barrel..... |
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Thanks for the info, looks like I'll be spraying my Magpul too |
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Actually, a pawn shop. While in the army, you will notice that your fellow soldiers will pawn anything. So, I just picked up an extra one for inspections and what not. Pawn shops near any military intallation usually have the good shiz. - Gazukull |
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Anyway, the stuff is ridiculously easy to work with; once the part is degreased & prepped, you simply spray it on, and after it dries to the point where you can grab it (about 20 minutes or so), you stick the parts in the oven @ 300 for 30 minutes. Let it cool, and you're ready to go. One thing, though: Cover any holes such as for the selector, etc. The stuff goes on thick enough that it will make it impossible to reinstall it. Oh yeah...the stuff stinks up the whole damned house while you are spraying, so you may want to do that outside, or in the garage. |
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Preheat your surface and it will dry as the paint hits the metal. This reduces sags, drips, and gloss areas. I use a hairdryer to preheat everything (including plastics), and it works fine. |
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Yah,
The moly res bug hit me fairly hard too. I moly resed my fricken keys.... Thanks Stickman :D - G |
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WHAT A GREAT IDEA!!!
After I get done with the keys, I'm going to do my chainsaw...then the lawn mower...then the cat... I love this crap! |
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Fine!!! |
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Damn! F*CK the Springfield, who painted your nails!!!! You can bake Duracoat to speed up the curing. What I have found out that Should NOT be done with duracoat that is done with other types like Norrell's is baking beforehand to get the solvent to Flash off of the surface immediately. When sprayed on, the solvent should sit for 15 minutes before it totally evaporates. And, as I suspected before, Acetone is not the ideal solvent/thinner for Duracoat. The ideal solvent has it's own special name even though it's a mixture of Toluene, Ethyl acetate and one other... I haven't heard of Duracoat NOT working when the solvent is flashed off too quickly, but the company who developed it suggests otherwise. Also, the 1:12 hardener to color that LCW states is a little bit different than the 1:4 that is suggested. |
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Why are 80% of the weapons in the "Refinished AR Picture Thread" not ARs? Crazy!
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It's because ARs come purdy. Other weapons have to use makeup...
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Here's my '73 SP-1 that I refinished in Alumahyde II. The color is the dark parkerizing gray and it went on real well. It took a few days to dry before I could handle it, but once it started to cure I felt safe putting it back together. I also replaced the original Colt handguards with a set of carbine guards because I don't like the wide feel of them and added an E-1 sight adjusting drum from Bushmaster.
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who makes that Eotech riser? |
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I think thats the YHM... |
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It is YHM but it is not an Eotech Riser. It's a 1/2" riser and extender for scope mounts or rings. 1/2" has usually been way too high for an Eotech riser. |
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Here's one I did with aluma-hyde for a friend of mine. I call it dragon stripe.
I prefere KG gunkote as it is faster (not having to wait a couple of weeks) for it to cure. Just spray, bake and in 3 hours I'm done. See the top of page 2 of this thread. But in this case, I couldn't fit the thing in my oven. |
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