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Posted: 8/4/2005 3:28:02 PM EDT
[#1]
I am going to get back on the Moly Res horse as soon as it cools down here some. This AZ summer junk is out of hand. There is no need to put it into the oven to cure, it can cure on your doorstep :D Current Tucson Temp : Hell - Gazukull |
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Posted: 8/4/2005 6:03:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Well, its not one of my ARs but I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet. I did however use NMR on my stainless Springfield 9mm 1911 and I think it turned out ok. I'm going to use grey/black on the next one. I've also used it on some Keltec 3ATs and some M1A mags that were in desperate need. I really like it so far.
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Handguns/lefta.JPG http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Handguns/rightb.JPG |
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Posted: 8/4/2005 7:12:31 PM EDT
[#3]
I know what you mean, its been so hot over here on the east coast that I've been hanging parts inside the cab of my truck while at work! I've gotta believe it's 150+ degrees in there and 8 to 10 hours cures the DuraCoat well. 
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Posted: 8/5/2005 5:31:43 PM EDT
[#4]
That looks good. Any pictures of the whole rifle? |
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Posted: 8/5/2005 8:53:15 PM EDT
[#5]
My DMM4 is going to get it's first coat of DC tomorrow. I was thinking of making a giraffe type of pattern in desert colors, but might try the "dragon" idea you have going there... |
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Posted: 8/5/2005 10:39:52 PM EDT
[#6]
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Posted: 8/6/2005 7:47:55 AM EDT
[#7]
Allright, since we have so many great looking guns painted here, let me ask and already asked question, "Which finish is the most durable and less prone to scraping off?"
Thanks Bill |
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Posted: 8/6/2005 7:50:50 AM EDT
[#8]
Its hard to beat Krylon over KG. Once the paint wears away, you still have your KG base.
[email protected] |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 2:37:24 PM EDT
[#9]
All plastic parts are NMR gray except for the Magpul which is Alumahyde. I ruined one Magpul by baking it at 300* for an hour so I can say for a fact that they don't stand up to that kind of time/temperature. Notice how the NMR came out in different shades on different parts.
  The upper receiver and barrel (including flame job) on this one are done in NMR Gray, the gray was mixed with white to lighten it to make the ghosted flames.  
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Posted: 8/10/2005 7:32:00 PM EDT
[#10]
Heres mine:
Its finished in DuraCoat AmStripe Pattern (colors: tigerstripe brown / matte black)  Joe edited: photo didnt post the first time |
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Posted: 8/12/2005 4:53:56 PM EDT
[#11]
Krylon colors with a top coat of AHII Matte Clear.
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Posted: 8/12/2005 4:55:41 PM EDT
[#12]
KICK ASS! |
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Posted: 8/12/2005 5:56:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Ya know, I was thinking of selling that gun. Now that I have the Lumpy stamp of approval I'm not sure if I can!  Actually, maybe I can use it in the advertisement "1 out of 1 Lumpies approve of this weapon".
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Posted: 8/13/2005 5:42:30 AM EDT
[#14]
My home built AR in NMR...
 Another in Duracoat from Bravo Company USA... 
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Posted: 8/13/2005 6:28:36 AM EDT
[#15]
Why the clear coat? It made the rifle shinier than it was in it's original configuration. Be well! [email protected] |
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Posted: 8/13/2005 6:32:58 AM EDT
[#16]
I would guess for a little durability. He could knock the level of sheen down a bit by respraying, and using VERY thin / misting on multiple coats. Its also important that the can is shaken very well, or you will get different amounts of sheen to the finish throughout the can. Before anyone asks, yes, I am writing "sheen", and not "shine" on purpose. |
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Posted: 8/16/2005 7:37:11 PM EDT
[#17]
I just finished this refinish job, I love OD Green! Norrell's MolyResin is AWESOME.
  
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Posted: 8/17/2005 7:36:13 AM EDT
[#18]
This is my Duracoat Tiger Stripe Brown- instead of grayish like in_Burrito's turned out, mine came out greenish:
 I kinda like it better how it was when I received it from ADCO with the DD9.0 and when I still had the ACOG as opposed to my modified 12.0FSPM and NO ACOG. The color scheme I had going was kinda nice: 
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Posted: 8/17/2005 8:45:53 AM EDT
[#19]
You actually GK'ed the barrel huh? How many rounds have you put through it since doing that? How well is it holding up (assuming you've put a few 100+ rounds through it since?)? If you have put a lot of rounds though it and it is showing wear, can you post updated pics? Thanks |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 10:08:35 AM EDT
[#20]
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Posted: 8/18/2005 11:08:30 AM EDT
[#21]
Actually it is holding up very well! I will try and get some pictures out at some point! - G |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 11:10:00 AM EDT
[#22]
didn't someone already say that they can't even blast the duracoat off of their refinished rifle now that it has cured?
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Posted: 8/18/2005 11:11:41 AM EDT
[#23]
JosephR
That brown AR is super hot! - G |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 12:28:40 PM EDT
[#24]
I find that hard to believe. Maybe with bead blasting, but aluminum oxide would blast right through! |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 12:34:57 PM EDT
[#25]
I am filled with lust. Damn you and your awesome pix that make my BRD overwhelm me. |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 12:40:29 PM EDT
[#26]
I would also wave the BS flag on not being able to blast it off.... |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 12:41:22 PM EDT
[#27]
Well, I'll try and get some better pictures this evening. This time though, I'll take them and instead of thinking they probably look nice and taking more, i'll check them on the computer and then take more or adjust exposure etc. then again, maybe i ought to make use of my photoshopping abilities and adjust the levels in there... duh... as far as the blasting- that's what someone said. The shit does cure and harden over time, but the guy could also be a pussy. i just read it last week here on AR15.com Moly resin needs to cure with heat but duracoat cures chemically over time and maybe like concrete, it continues forever... I am always worried I am mixing the rations wrong with DC. the instructions f*cking blow. they say 1:10 or 1:12, but they also state 1:6 teaspoon:tablespoon which translates to 1:18. The more hardener you use, the shinier and slicker the surface. |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 12:44:48 PM EDT
[#28]
Here are some refinished 1911 pictures I had floating around....... more Norrells OD Green and SOCOM (Matte Black).
  
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Posted: 8/18/2005 1:08:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Great work as always Stickman. Do you usually oil the coated surfaces after curing?
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Posted: 8/18/2005 1:13:15 PM EDT
[#30]
It depends on what I'm doing, and how soon I'm doing it. Even though it is supposed to be 100% cured, I try to wait a day before I play with it, or at least wait overnight. While I do spray them at times, it isn't something that I do as a rule. Here is one that is 100% SOCOM coated.... 
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Posted: 8/18/2005 3:23:04 PM EDT
[#31]
i don't know if you can count krylon as "refinished" but here it is>
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Posted: 8/18/2005 4:33:30 PM EDT
[#32]
I promised more pictures later and now it's later...
Here is one to wet your whistle. Check THIS page for another thread I started with a dozen or so 800x600 pictures.  
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Posted: 8/18/2005 4:48:42 PM EDT
[#33]
Lots of nice looking rifles in this thread.
tag for future addition. |
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Posted: 8/18/2005 5:34:59 PM EDT
[#34]
Before images.....
     And after norrels moly resin, the messed up nicks are from me dropping the part before putting it into the oven. (it was so hot outside here in Az, I left the parts out in the sun and they got so hot I couldnt touch them, norels dried instantly when they hit the part) light colored wood is inside light, cardboard and white wood is outside light.      |
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Posted: 8/19/2005 3:50:14 AM EDT
[#35]
Wow, wouldn't have thought that. Looking forward to the pics |
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