The Under $50 cammo paint job.......Write up - How 2 - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - The Under $50 cammo paint job.......Write up - How 2 (Page 2 of 3)

Posted: 7/16/2004 4:52:05 PM EDT

[#1]

Someone had come up with spraying through mesh laundry bag for really neat pattern. A possible cheap alternative to ruining an otherwise good laundry bag would be to use the plastic mesh bags that are used to hold apples or oranges.

Posted: 7/16/2004 7:32:55 PM EDT

[#2]

Here my camo job, I'd used krylon camo paint,may some day use bowflage on the rest of it.

TG

Posted: 7/16/2004 8:13:27 PM EDT

[#3]

I like those designs, but the camo being all square-y is really weird. I don't see how you could make those effects...How do you guys get those effects? Also I'm afraid of overpainting when I get my rifle; I haven't really spray painted anything before, so its kind of tough for me to imagine doing all this. I don't even have my first rifle yet...
Anyone have more urban camo links?
Also, what could I use to test camo patterns first? I like Chrome1's idea of painting ammo cans...
Finally, would camo hold up on Cavarms lowers? I plan on using one for my first build.

Posted: 7/16/2004 8:46:42 PM EDT

[#4]

Oh, almost forgot...would it be a good idea to NOT have a base coat, and use the gun's natural black as the base for the camo? I don't plan on this, but was just wondering. Also, would camo hold up on carbon tubes? I am seriously considering having a Clark's carbon tube cut to mid-length or carbine, depending on my rifle. Sorry to talk so much...

Posted: 7/17/2004 8:34:46 AM EDT

[#5]

Great post and useable info on how to!! Thanks for taking the time to post it. I have covers for all of my ARs, all of them were custom fit by RPAG ,a member here. I will however, be doing my 308 now that I know what to do!!!
Thanks again!!!

Posted: 7/17/2004 9:54:40 AM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Oh, almost forgot...would it be a good idea to NOT have a base coat, and use the gun's natural black as the base for the camo? I don't plan on this, but was just wondering. Also, would camo hold up on carbon tubes? I am seriously considering having a Clark's carbon tube cut to mid-length or carbine, depending on my rifle. Sorry to talk so much...

I've always found it better to have a light color base coat and apply the darker colors on top. I generally start with 3 light coats of khaki.

I like those designs, but the camo being all square-y is really weird. I don't see how you could make those effects...How do you guys get those effects? Also I'm afraid of overpainting when I get my rifle; I haven't really spray painted anything before, so its kind of tough for me to imagine doing all this. I don't even have my first rifle yet...
Anyone have more urban camo links?
Also, what could I use to test camo patterns first? I like Chrome1's idea of painting ammo cans...
Finally, would camo hold up on Cavarms lowers? I plan on using one for my first build.

The MARPAT / digital camo designs are done by using templates. Somewhat time consuming, but the results are very nice. I tryed Krylon Fusion on one of my CavArms lowers, but it chipped pretty easily. Standard Krylon didn't do much better.

Posted: 7/17/2004 11:20:59 AM EDT

[#7]

I tryed Krylon Fusion on one of my CavArms lowers, but it chipped pretty easily. Standard Krylon didn't do much better.

Sonofa...
Have you had any camo that has lasted on your Cavarms lower?

Posted: 7/17/2004 3:27:58 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:
I tryed Krylon Fusion on one of my CavArms lowers, but it chipped pretty easily. Standard Krylon didn't do much better.

Sonofa...
Have you had any camo that has lasted on your Cavarms lower?

No.

Posted: 7/17/2004 5:29:44 PM EDT

[#9]

how does the krylon camo hold up to heat???

Posted: 7/19/2004 7:21:05 AM EDT

[#10]

I have gone full auto with some of my paint jobs. I have had no problems with peeling fading or flaking!

Posted: 7/19/2004 8:10:54 AM EDT

[#11]

Excellent thread. Admin please tack this.

Posted: 7/19/2004 8:34:30 AM EDT

[#12]

I wrote this how 2 for everyone here on this thread. It was a way I could give back something for everything I have learned. I would love to see my how 2 tacked but it has been running for several months and I am guessing either its not that good to get tacked or I just do not know the right people!

Well thanks for the kind words and I hope this helps others. I hope people will try this and post pics of their work. That way it will remain on top!

Thanks and good luck.....

Posted: 7/19/2004 1:12:12 PM EDT

[#13]

This was already posted via a link but how freaking cool!

Posted: 7/19/2004 7:59:22 PM EDT

[#14]

Wow...awesome job!

Posted: 7/20/2004 12:45:59 PM EDT

[#15]

*cough* TACK *cough*

Posted: 7/21/2004 6:13:35 AM EDT

[#16]

Yes tack please!!

Posted: 7/28/2004 12:49:40 PM EDT

[#17]

bump! for the GA guy that is looking for this!

You know how you are!!!!!

Posted: 7/28/2004 1:26:33 PM EDT

[#18]

admin please tack this

Posted: 7/29/2004 7:57:27 AM EDT

[#19]

vedubin01

Other than cleaning with alcohol is there any other prep work needed on the barrel and receivers to make the paint more readily adhere to the metal? I am thinking of doing this to an ugly old Argentine Hi-Power (all steel) and was just wondering how to prep the surfaces to be painted.

Excellent write up and photos by the way!

Posted: 7/29/2004 9:35:23 AM EDT

[#20]

Great thread! I haven't had the nerve to paint any of my AR's, but I just
couldn't stand the orange finished wood stock on my SKS from several
years ago. I figured that even if I screwed it up real bad, it would still
have been an improvement. So it might be helpful to experiment
something a little less valuble. I figured that if I ever really needed to,
I would paint every rifle & pistol I have. Needless to say, the occasion
hasn't arrived yet.
I have always bought field mags for my AR's. Most look rough, so I make
it SOP to camo stripe all of the worst looking ones. I just use the Krylon
Camo paint colors that are available at my Ace hardware store. I even
painted a 1942 Ford Jeep with that stuff.
Last note.... for black, I find paint cans that have the "fan" spray nozzles.
It allows you to rotate the can & spray pattern to sharpen & broaden for
shadows. Hard to explain...
Great work & great write up!

Johnny C!

Posted: 7/29/2004 9:39:34 AM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:
I tryed Krylon Fusion on one of my CavArms lowers, but it chipped pretty easily. Standard Krylon didn't do much better.

What you need to do is beadblast the CavArms lightly before applying the finish. The mold release sinks in a small distance, and it is also a good "paint release".

Same thing for kydex and many other synthetics. You can use sandpaper, but then you lose the texture. I hit lightly with 80 grade glass beads at lower pressure, it doesn't "rip up" the finish, but it does take off the release agent.

Posted: 7/29/2004 9:48:26 AM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
vedubin01

Other than cleaning with alcohol is there any other prep work needed on the barrel and receivers to make the paint more readily adhere to the metal? I am thinking of doing this to an ugly old Argentine Hi-Power (all steel) and was just wondering how to prep the surfaces to be painted.

Excellent write up and photos by the way!

Don't use rubbing alcohol unless it is 90%+

I recommend laquer thinner for the "pre-cleaning" before paint. 70% alcohol is 30% water and sometimes other things that aren't "finish friendly".

Do not use mineral spirits.

Lauer Weaporny has good info here for prep:

(copy/paste from link of pertinent parts)
1) Disassemble Firearm To ensure proper adhesion of the finish, all parts must be clean. Pins and other small parts left in will bleed oil and could cause chipping.

2) Degrease As in all finishes, proper surface prep is Job One. We recommend degreasing with LCW TruStrip, laquer thinner, ACN, NST or DuraCoat Reducer, as they leave no residue and dry fast. DO NOT USE MINERAL SPIRITS OR PETROLEUM-BASED CLEANERS unless you are POSITIVE they leave no residue.
Be especially careful not to get ANY degreaser in your spray cup. Many cleaners will be incompatible with DuraCoat and will ruin your finish and your spraygun if mixed together.
Use only DuraCoat reducer. They are not interchangeable with other products.

A clean surface is critical to your success so be sure to be thorough. Blasting is recommended on bare surfaces, but not required. For best results, blast with 60-120 grit aluminum oxide. Thoroughly degreased parkerized parts may be finished without blasting. Hand blasters and aluminum oxide are available from LCW.

Posted: 7/29/2004 10:58:20 AM EDT

[#23]

Thanks Brass!

Posted: 7/29/2004 4:04:05 PM EDT

[#24]

oops

Posted: 7/29/2004 9:03:37 PM EDT

[#25]

If you are getting ready to paint metal parts, and are concerned with degreasing well enough, put them in the oven on low heat for an hour and watch how much oil seeps out of the pores of the metal.

Posted: 8/1/2004 4:49:54 PM EDT

[#26]

i liked it in black better.

Posted: 8/12/2004 7:43:15 AM EDT

[#27]

Tack, tack, tickity tack..for later....

Posted: 8/19/2004 11:48:48 AM EDT

[#28]

Anyone with some fresh paint?

Posted: 9/8/2004 2:52:07 PM EDT

[#29]

tagged

Posted: 9/9/2004 1:38:23 PM EDT

[#30]

tag

Posted: 9/9/2004 1:58:51 PM EDT

[#31]

nice work. Might try this on a FAL I have.

Posted: 9/9/2004 5:37:52 PM EDT

[#32]

This should be tacked, because the one time i went to look for it, i couldnt find it.

Posted: 9/17/2004 4:08:09 AM EDT

[#33]

This is a great little write up...

Thanks!

Posted: 9/17/2004 8:12:56 AM EDT

[#34]

Well thanks guys, now I think I see another AR in the near future, my wife is gonna kill me!!

Posted: 9/27/2004 7:40:30 PM EDT

[#35]

I work at a local body shop and spend a good bit of time painting proffesionally. I have been contemplating trying this process. I must say you guys did an excellent job! What kind of durability does the krylone have, does it hold up to cleaning solvents etc? If one did not mind spending the extra money what do you think of duracoat from brownells? also incidentlly I own a blast cabinet and powdercoater. Has anyone tried powdercoating any firearm parts? I.E. my Remington 870 surface rusts very easily. what do you think?

Once again excellent job and great tutorial!
Thanks
ZSD

Posted: 9/28/2004 6:30:19 AM EDT

[#36]

I did this for a write up because many were using spray cans to paint their guns and other things. The paint has held up on my gun for over 1000 rounds and I have cleaned it many times will all sorts of chems. I have not had chip or flake 1! Duracoat is also the way to go but it does not need to be. If you are in a body work inviroment then you would know its all about preping and the painting is the easy part. But Ill try to get some picks of my gun in action and me applying cleaning solvents to it. I stand behind this 100% and my gun still looks like the first day I painted it!

Thanks for the kind words on the write up!

Posted: 9/28/2004 5:17:39 PM EDT

[#37]

Roger that. I will start mine ASAP.
ZSD

Posted: 10/4/2004 8:30:54 PM EDT

[#38]

tag

Posted: 10/4/2004 9:02:35 PM EDT

[#39]

Tagged as well. A few pics on the front page aren't working.

Posted: 10/5/2004 4:51:27 AM EDT

[#40]

sorry about the first several pics the site lost them and I do not have copies.

Posted: 10/6/2004 5:11:58 PM EDT

[#41]

ATTENTION MODS! Hey could you guys tack this article so it isn't lost?PLEASE ? Thank you .

Posted: 10/6/2004 7:33:56 PM EDT

[#42]

What about stainless steel barrels? what kind of prep would that need? Great job! You have inspired me to try this on a new build I am working on!

Posted: 10/7/2004 6:02:31 AM EDT

[#43]

I started re-finishing my Mossberg 500 in this manner last night and I'm really impressed as to how it is coming out! The reciever and barrell are green and the mag. tube is black. So far so good. I'll post pics after I'm finished AND I learn how to post pics. Take care.

Posted: 10/7/2004 11:07:45 AM EDT

[#44]

tagged

Posted: 10/7/2004 6:28:10 PM EDT

[#45]

Molly Resin 2-8oz. bottles $42.00

Posted: 10/21/2004 10:58:15 AM EDT

[#46]

Used the painted lower from my 9mm AR for my new 16 inch .223 flattop. Painted new handguards, will probably paint the upper and scope later. Think I may leave the receivers on the 20 inch alone. Or may just paint them black so that they finally match :)