I think that's because most of those people are buying cheap Chinese diesel heaters. The well made ones are fairly quiet. Those tend to be the ones you also see in trailers.

Not that I blame them. Pay $200 and run some hoses or spend $1k and put it inside? Not a hard choice for a lot of people.

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YouTube lies about how fast fabrication occurs.

Bunches of stuff showed up.  

Got the washer tank relocated using a delta vehicle systems trloacate bracket.

And the passenger side battery tray installed.

They both were kinda a pain and I had to spend some time making things fit. But it all went in and is secure. I’m satisfied.




Former owner has a too large battery wedged in the stock (drivers side) tray with an absolute shit show of bad wiring practices.  He had run power into the cab, to switches, then back out to lights. The fuses were in the middle and downstream of switches. As well as some “premium” audio wire for a (removed before I got it) amp and stereo system.


All that is ripped out and I’ll be installing a blue sea systems fuse panel with a reversed relay to the main battery and the extra battery. With key on it’ll be powered by main batt. With key off it’ll be powered by extra batt. (With an automatic voltage disconnect for when / if it gets too low).


This sub panel is for all the electric doo dads in the cab. USB-PD power for phones and iPad. Some Anderson power pole receptacles for amateur radio / GMRS, etc.  also power to switches for downstream relays for external stuff. Inc. Feedback Indicator lamps on switches if I decide to get that complicated.



By the way - if any of you have shied away from deutsch connectors because they seem complicated. Don’t. So some reading, buy some crimps for the pins, and buy a couple sets and start experimenting. Far far better than just crimping on your bog standard spade terminals.



This won’t be a traditional two battery setup. The extra battery will be as large a lithium battery as I can reasonably fit into the box.  So the usual setup of just using an automatic charging relay to tie the two batts together won’t work. I’ll probably use a victron dc-dc charger plus hood solar or something to charge the passenger side batt.  Idea is for it to be the house battery. Just under the hood instead of in the cab somewhere.


… at least that’s the current plan. I may decide to just go the simpler route and put two traditional batts in.

That sounds cool but electrical systems scare me, in the sense I just don't know enough to feel comfortable taking things apart.

As a non-offroader, what is the 2nd battery for? Am I reading correctly that it will support interior chsrging ports and other functions that allow you to pull power from 2nd battery while camping, without running down the one that starts the engine?

Sounds brilliant, and I really like the idea for myself. I do little 2-3 nighters occasionally out of the truck and am always worried about the battery.

I have the slee bracket and second battery box as well. I intended to put my house battery there but lifepo4 batteries don’t like the heat so it’s in back and I keep consumables in my second battery box.

I have a group 31 AGM main battery and they fit fine with minor tweaks. You can run a group 27 and it fits perfectly. Two group 27s would give you a nice capacity but nowhere near the 320AH I have.

I have an air conditioner and enough power to run it 3 nights without any charging.

Can’t praise the cascadia 4x4 hood solar panel enough…been giving me free power for 2 years or so…it feeds through a victron solar controller which then keeps my agm house battery doing its thing for the Engel fridge,onboard air, etc etc

Mine is a cheap Chinese one

I thought about using a valeo unit from a touareg and a motorcycle radiator but that was getting too complicated.

Hmm… I didn’t think about the heat. That’s a good point. I’ll have to do some reading. My PowerWagon is rigged with a lithium battery in the RAMBOX but that’s much less hot than the engine compartment.

I don’t know the group size dimensions off-hand.  The too large battery was wedged in there and I couldn’t fit a blue sea systems terminal fuse on the thing without the rubber cap rubbing hard against the hood when closed. It was nervous-making.

ETA:  Battle born BMS shuts them down at 135 degrees. Guess I’ll be going the standard route for now.

Also, Witt’s end is apparently going through some tough times. I can’t add anything to cart in their site and I really want their panel insert.




Correct. The idea is to only ever use the main battery to start the engine and run the vehicle. Obv there are degrees here.  Im not going to re-wire the whole vehicle. But any electrical additions I do will be routed to the second (or third, perhaps) house battery.


First, it’s important to understand that while battery tech is advancing, batteries are still better at certain things. The typical car battery is great at delivering a LOT of amps quickly, to run the starter, but their overall capacity is low compared to a battery designed to deliver moderate amounts of current for a long time.  But the typical large capacity lifepo4 battery cannot deliver high amounts of current and can be damaged by trying to do so. (Such as in an engine starting application)

Dual battery systems come in two flavors.

1. Basically duplicating your starter battery. This gives you greater storage and simple redundancy.  In systems like this they’re either wired directly together (thing most diesel trucks you see) or they’re tied together automatically via an automatic relay that closes when it senses voltage rising in either battery (thus being charged) and opens when it senses voltage falling.  The latter is the superior option as one bad battery in a permanently tied system can draw the good battery down.

Limitation of this is the batteries MUST be the same chemistry, and it’s best if they’re identical.  Otherwise the bulk charge / float voltages are different and one will always be dragging the other down.

2.  Engine battery, with a completely separate house battery system. (Which is what I described in the post you quoted). The alternator charges the main battery as usual, and then the house battery is charged via a  one-way circuit.  Which often takes the form of a DC-DC converter because the typical lion house battery needs a higher charging / float voltage than the typical automotive battery setup.


For scenario two In a pinch you can reverse the dc-dc charger and use the house battery to charge the main engine batt.  Or you can just use jumper cables and accept the risk of damaging your expensive lifepo4 battery to get the engine started and get back to tarmac.


(There are lots of nuances here with batter isolators, combiners, low voltage disconnects, and so on.  But that’s the two broad basic scenarios.)

@Chairborne - would you mind posting pics of your underhood battery tray mods?

And any other details you’d care to share.

That all makes sense and sounds very appealing. Thank you for the explanation!

What do y'all think about 5.29s on a Tacoma? I see one for sale, already has the camper I want, skids, bumpers, 34s, etc. But it might have to be my daily driver. Is that gearing appropriate?

ETA It's a 2017.

I have 5.29 Nitros on my daily with Yoko geoloandar 315/75r16 (34.8”). 529 is the optimal gearing for 34+ but it’s not a strong as 4.88. So that is really the only downside I can see. For most people 5.29 are strong enough but they do have a better chance of breaking than a 4.88.

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If you’re used to domestic / older vehicles that will seem like an overly low ratio.

Later Tacoma trucks (and maybe Tundras as well) have taller gears in the transmission, and so have lower gearing in the differentials.  Stock for 4wd models is 4.30 iirc.

3rd gen Tacoma’s automatic have 3.91 and manuals have 4.30.

Ah, that makes sense. I'm coming from a GX where is 3.73 stock and 4.56 is the typical upgrade.
Great to hear. Thanks!

Sure. I stuck this big ol group 31 marine AGM battery in the primary spot. Just had to make my own hold down bracket from auto parts store stuff and reverse the terminals. I do the “big 3” wire upgrade on everything I own and use military battery terminals so it was easy. Nothing contacts the hood in the slightest though it’s a tight fit. I have a homebuilt 32AH lifepo battery in the right rear quarter panel, added redarc bcdc 1225 and blue sea fuse panel plus cheapo voltmeter/switch panel from Amazon. Then I bought an air conditioner so I have an additional 280AH battery. I added self heating capability to it for cold winter camping. I ran 4ga cable directly from my main battery to the redarc charger, using the factory wire chases under the door sills.

Thanks.  I can’t tell from looking at the bracket what’s different. Longer hooks?  

This thing from blue sea systems (but apparently made by Eaton) is like 3 inches tall. As in above the shoulder of the screw terminal on the battery.



Enough room to not rub on hood?  It doesn’t really matter if not I’ll just figure out an alternate solution.

Yeah it’s just the j hooks. I don’t think you’d be able to fit those terminal connectors. I’d recommend something like this mounted to the back of the battery box or fender for everything except your winch.

On the subject of batteries, what battery terminals would you guys recommend?

If you have plenty of space, marine terminals are what I like. Unless you mean brand, then I don't know.

I think I just bought the Tacoma I asked about earlier with the 5.19s. Offer accepted. I'm just waiting for the bank to get back to me, which should be no problem. Hopefully by this time next week, it'll be mine.

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Getting there.

Did you grab any pictures of it?

deleted.

I don't think it's right to post pics of someone else's truck, so I'll refrain until she's mine. But it's a 2017, 85k miles, fully locked, bumpers, skids, camper, etc. It's 98% what I would have built if I did it myself.

ETA: I have to travel to pick it up. I haven't actually seen the truck in person, just lots of pics and talking with the owner.

Probably a stupid question for those who know:
Wife and I are planning on taking a trip to Hoover dam in a couple of weeks. When I travel I usually try to take a handgun and a "broken down" rifle in a plastic case.
Website says vehicles may be searched. Is this just an idle threat or the real deal, and how thorough is the search.
Taking the wife's 2021 4runner pretty packed down, so it would be a lot to search.
Thanks

Try it and find out.

Or, just don’t take prohibited items into the area.

I’ve been through there a few times.  They are more likely to search you if you’re loaded down.

…If you’ve been through before, explain what a prohibited item is. Share any intel you have, and help everyone reading this thread understand better what the situation is.

https://www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam/crossingguide.pdf

Everyone else can google just as well as you can.

Dude is posting looking for other feedback. You responded saying you’d been through.

Do you have any useful information to convey to the thread?

I’ve already posted it.

Ahhh Yes

I forgot that this thread is in GD. So when you ask a firearms related question you get a snarky remark in return. I am sure that I am not the only one in the US that travels across several states to see the Hoover Dam with the intention of not be deaded by the numerous criminals out there who wish others harm.
Maybe I should be more specific, since you have been there:

Is there parking off site so as to walk or ride to the dam unarmed?
Is there a facility or gun shop close that will store your firearms for as you visit the dam?
Are there any other options that I am not aware of?

GD is a lot less abrasive with that guy on your ignore list. I've never seen him post anything that wasn't condescending and dickish.

Yep, and sometimes the simplest solution is best.

See, if you would have asked that instead of “I know guns are prohibited, how can I get away with breaking the rule anyways” then you’d have received a much more informative answer.

You could park outside and walk, but it’s a long walk.  There is a good size parking ramp within walking distance of the dam, but it is well inside the checkpoint.  There’s a parking lot near the Tillman bridge you could park in.  But again, long walk.

No gun shops, nowhere to “check” your gun that I’m aware of. Parking outside the checkpoint and walking in is going to be your option.  

The last thing you can do is leave the guns at home, as it’s quite probable you’ll never need them on your trip.  But that’s your personal choice.

I don’t know of any other options other than trying to get in without getting searched.  Maybe they will, maybe they won’t.  I’ve been “thoroughly” searched one time.  Your dice to roll.  As I said, if you’re jam packed, they are more likely to look closer.  Empty car?  They look in the windows and trunk and say “see ya.”

Context: I’ve been there over a dozen times.  

Hey guys I'm hoping y'all can point me in the right direction. I just bought a RCI Off Road roof rack for my 5th gen 4Runner and I'm looking for a 270° awning that will mount on my rack. I can search Google for awnings, but what I'm not certain about is the mounting hardware. Is the hardware specialized to each awning, or is there a standard that works with any brand of rack?  Is there a site somewhere that explains the basics of mounting gear to the roof rack?

Sorry for the FNG questions, my previous off road rig is a 2001 Tundra and I always just thrown my gear in the bed, but when it comes to the "how to" of outfitting my 4R, (with no bed) I'm a FNG.

It depends on the awning, but they come with some hardware. You might need a standoff, or bracket in addition to the awning.

For My ARB awning, it had no mounting hardware so I ordered some aftermarket brackets that bolted to the side of my roof rack (Prinsu-style) and the awning bolted to the aftermarket mounts.

If anyone’s looking I’ve posted my Turtleback trailer up for sale on the Facebook owners group. We’re going to move onto a Xpedition Trailers Voyager. The Turtleback has been great our family has just outgrown it.



Once we get the Voyager I’ll post some photos of our first outing. Hoping we love it!

Thanks for the reply.  Where did you find the aftermarket brackets? My rack maker, RCI, sells awning brackets, but they specifically state that they are not made for a 270 awning.

Mine were direct from Prinsu for my roof rack.

I did some research on the RCI awning brackets. RCI states the issue with their brackets and 270 degree awnings is clearance with the rear hatch. It still might work for your application.

Just doing research on Tacomaworld, a guy said the brackets weren't strong enough for the 270 degree awning so he made his own (the RCI ones buckled under the weight). Another guy there who works with a fabrication shop said that most awnings mount the same, so the issue will be compatibility with your roof rack.

Good to know, thank you very much for the information, I appreciate your time spent looking into that. I think I’m going to give RCI a call and ask what they recommend.

Good plan and good luck!

I’ve got a set of 3 OVS awning brackets I’d sell you cheap. Ran them for about a year on my 270+ awning. If you’re interested I’ll take a look at your rack and verify fitment.

After looking I wouldn’t suggest my brackets. The brackets would technically work, but they’d stress the rack considerably. I’d run the RCI brackets and just double up on them. Run 4 instead of 2.

@jafrush got anything that could work?

Thanks for the offer. I gave RCI tech support a call this morning but haven’t heard back from them yet. If their rack won’t work without having to Jerry rig a bracket, I’m going to cancel the order (still waiting for delivery) and find something that will work.

I ended up canceling my order for the RCI rack. They were not able to confirm what bracket would work for the 270 awning and were very cool about canceling the order. For anyone looking at RCI products, their customer service is awesome so no worries there.


Can you guys now recommend a roof rack that would work with a 270 awning on a 4Runner? Before opting on the RCI rack I was considering the Sherpa  Crestone but the price difference is significant. Any recommendations is much appreciated.

I have been researching a flatbed camper build. My dream rig will be this plus a boat I can tow between AK and Mexico.

Just need to hit the lottery.

@BoiseG

I'm getting ready to order one of these Gamiviti Racks for my 100 series.  I'm sure there are other great options for 4Rs, but after doing a bit of research this was the best answer for me.

When I get it in and installed I'll follow up with my thoughts.

ETA: pic of rig as she sits now.

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Pretty much any rack should be able to run pretty much any awning mount, its just going to vary on what type of hardware to get to mate the two up. We have people running 270s on ours all the time. RCI's answer may have just been because you don't have your brackets/awning picked out yet?

If you have the awning already, first thing Id do is ask the awning supplier/manufacturer what brackets THEY recommend. Once you know what the brackets are you can better answer how it'll attach to the rack. There are a bunch of heavy duty brackets out there for 270s, and a lot of them will be universal/work on multiple brand awnings, but some will not. If you don't have it yet, then part of your shopping should be asking the companies about what mounts are recommended.

270s are BIG, and heavy, and again not all made the same.