I'd love to find one of those Banks kits - too bad they stopped making them.

While it'd be nice to have, I won't lie in that simply adding a 4-speed transmission into these things makes a huge difference.

I dropped a 4L80 into the guntruck and don't hardly drive the softop at the moment. That's the next project.

Looking very good Lawman!


Saw that a couple weeks ago! Amazing performance out of an 8 ton truck offroad!

The suspension system is pretty interesting too. Really wish they would have spent more time going into that.

I now want a Banks powered 6.5 in my truck... Not going to lie. I've recently been eying the Banks Sidewinder for the 6.2L as a future project.

6.2L CUCV with Sidewinder kit...





My only concern is long term reliability with it, but supposedly Banks did the research and came up with 10lbs of boost being safe for the stock engine. And, they have been making the same kit for 30+ years...

About $2k for the basic kit sans exhaust from Summit, plus costs to custom fit it and exhaust to the HMMWV.

I do wonder if a 6.5's turbo system can be installed on a 6.2 though. Going to have to compare engine setups between my truck when I get it and a friend's 6.5 powered Chevy dump truck. I suppose at some point though you start getting into territory where it just makes more sense to change the whole engine to a 6.5 and of course if you're at that point, besides cost, why not go to a better engine all together?

See my post above. Summit has them but they're not cheap: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Banks-Sidewinder-Turbocharger-Kits

Some info on the kits.

I know they still make the Sidewinder, but my understanding was that the Humvee needs a specific kit due to the minimal height of the hood over the engine. Banks no longer makes that specific kit.

I have heard that a Chevy van turbo will fit, but have no experience or knowledge on how well it performs.

Ah, gotcha... Like I said, will be very interested to compare my truck with my friend's 6.5 turbo to see what options there might be.

someone might be interested
http://eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/5486135432.html

Yesterday I made a 4 hour trek to Hopkinsville to inspect my truck.

Overall, it was about as I expected and am pleased with my purchase!

The folks at City Salvage and Recycling couldn't have been easier to work with. Told them why I was there, told me I could just go ahead and head to the yard and find my truck.

It didn't take long. There were between 2-3 dozen trucks there in various conditions.



Interestingly I also found EagleArms' truck there even though it was supposed to be on base at Fort Campbell. I'll let him share whatever info he wants or pics I sent him.

Batteries are 2012 manufacture if I'm reading the date code right and the truck did start right up so, I guess I'll keep them for now. Trans fluid was a nice bright red. Oil was very black and will need changed. No date on the oil filter I could see. Already have a case of Rotella T, just need to pick up a filter.

Couldn't get under the truck. The yard was an absolute mud pit thanks to rain we've had in this area recently. I could see all of the tools were still in the pioneer kit though!

I did find out my truck does have the 10k halfshafts so once I get the truck and can inspect the boots closer, I may have a set for sale. I had picked up a set not knowing if they were the heavier ones. Not sure if I should keep them for spares or if I should swap them and sell/keep the old ones.

Very dirty inside. And since it's been wet, that dirt covering everything had turned into a a muddy slime. Definitely glad I've got a good pressure washer!


Some other things I noted...

Very glad I picked up new seats! The seats weren't in nearly as good a shape as they looked in the listing. Also, wet and mildewy. Probably because someone left some of my doors partly open.






Found a small crack on the hood near the passenger side lift shackle. No pictures of that area in the listing so, meh.




Tires look about like I expected. Not much life left on them but enough to get a little use. Will probably change them sometime this summer but definitely before winter.

The doors look decent. Some of the clear vinyl on the edges of the windows past the stitching is starting to get yellow and crack. They probably have a couple more years on them.

The top isn't dry rotted so far as I can tell but is definitely getting near the end of it's life. There may even be a tear on the top but I couldn't get a good look, they had the trucks too sandwiched together. I probably should have gotten up in the bed...

(Possible tear on the left side ahead of the right most piece of rope. Going to see if a local upholstery shop would be able to patch it if it is.)







A question to anyone who might know... Is there any paint or coating I can spray to recolor it green and possibly help reseal it?


Some other questions...

Besides the jerry can carrier it comes with, it has this tray on the other fender. Any ID on it? Ammo can carrier I assume?




I found this in the rear passenger seat storage compartment. Any ID on this?




Found this too but it was soaked so I didn't mess with it. No idea what it means. Don't think it's for my truck though given the "M1083A1" 5 ton truck mentioned on there.




Lastly, the unit markings have been mostly painted over but I can make out some of them. Not enough to get a clear idea of who had the truck though. So, anyone have any insight on them?









The griffins are going to stay for sure.


It sure sucked having to leave her behind when I left.

A 5987E is the dispatch form.  (I was a dispatcher in the motor pool).    I will walk you through the dispatch process I did.  So Private Snuffy comes in and says I need HMMWV bumper # HHS-15.  I checked their license and dispatch the truck to them in the system.  But I wouldn't give them the keys or dispatch yet.  I gave them the second page of the form you have there (5988E) and the PMCS (Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services) book that goes with the truck.  After they conduct their PMCS and they annotated any faults with the trucks, I would give them the rest of the dispatch/keys.  I am guessing what you have is an example of the way it should correctly be filled out.  I put an example copy of each of the forms in the dispatch folders so they could use them while they filled out the paperwork.   Most still brought back the paperwork jacked up or incomplete....

Very nice insight! Thank you!

I'd bet you're right about it being an example copy. The signature looked photocopied and I'm guessing that might be why there is a big "CORRECT" stamp on it.

I did find it near this small document binder that is on the seat as well (it was empty).

Chain piece under seat is 1 of 2 used with tow bars. Wraps around axles, not sure why it would be with a hummer.

Looks like a good truck

The fact that yours have the A2 front seats is a huge deal. Even if the seats need to be replaced, that drivers seat base is a bitch to install if you want to upgrade later and don't have it.

That tray is definitely not an ammo can tray - but that's a good looking truck!

Is that a radio tray that has been flipped over and mounted to the rear?

There are several trucks in today's auction getting zero bids!

I was thinking a radio or battery tray of some sort also - it looks like it's purpose built for that spot though since the metal is folded over to fit the fender, as well as to provide a lip for whatever gets stored on it.

Are these trucks sitting at a private business? That seems weird. I'm still learning about how gov planet works.

Also, if your unit numbers are spray painted over, you might be able to use some carb cleaner or thinner to get it off without bothering the carc paint.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

That's what I love about this place. Of course, I was also waiting for responses of "dickfer" and "henway".

I don't think I've got any use for it so I'll probably just sell it or trade it. I'm sure someone here or on SS could use it.



For sure! Was very glad when I found it that it had the highbacks installed.



So the mystery continues... It seemed to be made of aluminum, by the way.

It's getting removed anyway. I'm putting a locking box on that fender.

Other fender will be jerry can storage. The existing one is being relocated and 3 more are being installed. My water/ration heater is also getting mounted on that fender. I figure near the rear tailgate is a good spot for it since everyone always hangs out around the truck bed/tailgate!

When I take it off, I'll check for any ID info. Anyone want to call dibs on it?



Yep, private business. Local businesses are subcontracted for offsite storage in some cases.

Exactly what I was thinking with the carb cleaner. That or some acetone. Carb cleaner is probably a little more persistent though. Hopefully it's just spray paint and not CARC sprayed over it.

I used acetone on both of mine - mine belonged to a SC National Guard Engineering unit. No wonder they were in as good of shape as they were-they probably didn't get used much.

I did it! After a bit of searching online I think I've managed to trace the lineage of my truck.

Working off the pics I took of the hood markings, I had come up with "181 F ABN".

Turns out this was actually "181 FABN" which should be the Tennessee Army National Guard 1-181 Field Artillery Battalion.

Their "Distinctive Unit Insignia" certainly matches the logos on the side of my truck.





Also, been doing some research into how I might be able to repaint/recoat my soft top. Got a lot of results on Steel Soldiers, of course. Looks like my best course of action is to pick up some custom mixed Behr exterior paint from Home Depot and spray it down.

Right now I'm sure you're as skeptical as I was at first thinking there's no way a house paint from Home Depot could be used to paint a military truck. Incorrect! Home Depot is able to color match the Federal Standard color codes so you can get pretty much an exact match for 383 Green, 383 Brown, Black, Tan, and a whole bunch of others. Plus it is apparently quite durable and will go on with something as easy as a $100 airless sprayer. It's even diesel resistant from what some have reported.

Some instructive threads on SS for anyone getting one of these trucks:

Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

1968 JK M35A2 Restoration Project!

Paint Information (Codes and Sources)

The biggest thing with the Behr paint is that it cannot get wet for 3-4 weeks after application.

Definitely thinking of giving my truck a fresh coat of paint, especially with it being as cheap as it is to buy and as easy as it is to apply. My only hangup is keeping the 1-181 griffins on the sides. The unit markings can be masked off but that would be a real pain with the logos. Maybe I can get in touch with them and see if they can hook me up with a stencil or possibly even make one myself.

If you're thinking of using some rattlecan Rustoleum/Krylon camo paint, you probably could if you didn't mind the colors being off. Speaking for the green only, the Rustoleum Dark Forest Green camo paint is too dark compared to the 383 Green. I know because earlier today I took the deep water intake stack I bought, cleaned and prep sanded it, sprayed with 3 coats of primer, and then sprayed with 4 coats of the Rustoleum. After it cured to the touch, I compared it to a couple of truck parts I've got that are 383 Green.

The other solutions are some CARC substitute paints like RAPCO's and some others on eBay but they are pricey compared to the Behr.

Also, TB 43-0209 is a good reference.

I did my cucv in behr paint. I rolled it on with a 4" roller. It is easy and hard to screw up. My carc was all faded and ugly. The Behr has held up for 3 years now.

I only use Rapco out of the cans on my trucks. About 7 bucks a can shipped. Quality paint, comes with 2 nozzles and is an exact match.
I just painted my M1009 for about 50 bucks.

It would be cool to see a recent pic of the Behr paint after have being applied for a while.

It has some blemishes from tree branches and mud but still looks decent.

Not bad for being 3 years old a truck that looks like it gets used!

Did you do any prep before applying it? Sanding/scuffing, primer, etc. or did you just clean and apply?

Also, which Behr did you end up using? I'm thinking of going with the Marquee since it is supposed to actually repel dirt and water.

Favor to ask of someone with a truck...

I took a couple measurements when I was inspecting mine but neglected one spot. I need (in inches) the area from the rearmost part of the seat belt anchor to the edge of the tailgate indent on the fender and, from the innermost part of the soft top hoop bracket to the fender edge in the bed as per my crude MS Paint.



Much appreciated!

If someone doesn't get it to you beforehand, I'll get that info for you this evening when I get home.

After reading some more on Steel Soldiers, I decided to stay away from Behr paints and will be going with Sherwin Williams CARC. Latex looks good, but it's the worst for a repaint or dings and scratches to cover back up, you can't sand latex the way you can CARC, polyurethane or enamel based finishes. Once you go latex there is no going to another paint without stripping it off. Another option is Rapco paints.

Are all of the M998's for Off-Road Use Only?

My father has been wanting a surplus Humvee as a weekend toy, but wants to be able to drive it around town, maybe the occasional off road use but nothing serious.

Earlier in the thread there's a link on how folks got around the off road use only. They can titled for on road use, with some work.

That is most appreciated!


I saw some of the same when reading up on it and I've been meaning to look into the best way to do touchups and repaints, if there is one.

Do you happen to know the going rate for that Sherwin Williams CARC? If it's not outrageously priced, I may go with that on the body and go with Behr on the soft top and doors since I'm sure the latex paint will help with the sealing and water resistance on the canvas.

I don't really have anything set in stone yet and am open to options.

37". What are you trying to do?

Trying to find out how large of locking storage box could fit there.

What about from the inside of the hoop bracket to inner fender edge?

If you mean the blue line in your diagram, I would go with 14". The top fender is 16" wide from outer lip to inner lip.

Excellent! Thank you very much!

I would be more careful painting a humvee or other high dollar/rare military vehicles with Behr. I'm not worried about the cucv. Nothing hides paint imperfections like flat camo.

I think I just used whatever exterior base they said on SS. Just scuffed and rolled on one coat.

I have read prices vary from $70 a gallon to $120 a gallon. I have been unable to get a price at the store by my house. I left a message at another store that seemed to at least know what I was talking about. Per some of the posts on Steel Soldiers it should take about 2 gallons to do the entire vehicle if doing 1 color.

Your post had me curious so I stopped into my local Sherwin-Williams today to get some info and prices.

The assistant manager ended up being the one that helped me. Told him what I was looking for and got a funny look at first. I guess it was the whole "Chemical Agent" thing. Told him what it was for and then it clicked.

So we went into their office to do some searching of their system. He knew they made military paints but mentioned he also knew there were proprietary military paints they can't sell and didn't know if these fell into that. I told him I knew of a number of people who had bought it from them and after some looking we found the paint in their system and found it was indeed okay for sale.

He asked how much I was looking for so I told him 2 gallons of 383 Green, 1 gallon of 383 Brown, and 1 gallon of black. Checking the system further he then wasn't sure if he could sell me any less than a complete case of 4 single gallons. So he made some calls around to see if anyone had single gallons available. After speaking with a store in Columbus, OH the person there informed him it was actually one of their products that could be sold by less than a complete case.

He also told me that it is a 2 part paint and will require a catalyst in a 2:1 paint to catalyst ratio.

With all of this info, he checked prices. He told me that prices will vary based on locale and how much margin each store has to sell products for and, since he was really curious about this paint and wanted to see the end result, he'd sell me the paint for $60/gallon and the catalyst for $80! For just $400 total for genuine CARC that's a lot safer than the old stuff, I've pretty much got to go with that over the Behr.






Told him I'm still waiting on the paperwork for the sale to clear so I probably won't be up to get the paint for another month or two and probably won't have the truck painted until some time this summer. I think I'd like to try getting the interior Lizard Skin/Monstaliner and exterior  paint done around the same time.

I'd say if your local place is having trouble figuring it out, give my guy I dealt with a call at the number above since it's all fresh in his head. Again, not sure you will get it priced for what I did but good luck!

To be honest, I'm a little curious about the "Woodland Desert Sage" color they have mentioned too...

For application, I'm thinking of picking up this Harbor Freight HVLP System. For $120 (minus the obligatory 20% off coupon!), that it handles polyurethane fine, and the generally good reviews, it seems like the way to go.

Did some looking into that "Woodland Desert Sage" color since I was curious and found a good example:




Looks like an interesting color!

Seems really close to the color of those MRAP seats I've got.

How well do the paint and catalyst have to be mixed and how will you mix it to get the proper consistency?
 

Buried in the data sheet it mentions that A and B should be mixed with a mechanical mixer so, I'd imagine any drill attachment would be okay.

As for proper ratio mix, Sherwin-Williams should have (and might even include free) a mix cup that shows the ratios.

This morning I decided to check into oil filters for my truck and realized I forgot something simple for initial maintenance - air filter replacement!

I figured it's a cheap and easy bit of maintenance so why not just take care of it when I'm doing the oil.

Got on all of the major auto parts stores' sites (O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, and AutoZone) to check prices and they of course need year/make/model to match parts. No direct option for HMMWV but I put in 1992 Hummer since it was the earliest, most similar to the HMMWV, and came with the 6.2L (the air filters are the same across all engine types though).

Turns out air filter replacement on these aren't all that cheap after all!

Cheapest I found was $77 for a Wix (my go-tos for my filters are usually Wix, Purolator, Mobil 1, and Napa Gold/Platinum anyway) at O'Reilly. I did find a $74 Fram at AutoZone but I don't buy Fram.

Thankfully there are other options like eBay and Amazon! Not only did I find surplus air filters priced almost half the Wix on eBay (look up "HMMWV air filter") but, I also found the actual Wix filters priced nearly half on both eBay and Amazon (Prime eligible by the way). Found the NAPA Gold nearly half priced on eBay as well. I suspect since the part numbers are nearly identical, the Wix and NAPA are one and the same.

If any one needs them here are the air filter part numbers:

Wix: 42105
NAPA Gold: 2105

Thankfully the oil filters are much more reasonably priced and you can buy those locally without getting raped. Oil filters are the same for 6.2L, 6.5L, and 6.5L Turbo.

Here's the part numbers for those:

Purolator PureONE: PL34631
Purolator Classic: L34631
Mobil 1 Extended Performance: M1-302
Wix: 51060
Wix XP: 51060XP
NAPA Gold: 1060
NAPA Platinum: 41060

Anyone know any tricks on how to refurbish plastic Windows on the soft doors?

Ryan,

I ordered all of my filters and seals in one kit form Mac Motors. If you watch they will throw the Preventative Maintenance Kit A on sale for around $75 and the Maintenance Kit B on sale for under a $100.

Mac Motors (look at bottom of their home page)

EagleArmsHBAR,

These are some products that you can find at most auto parts store in the cleaner sections for soft tops and the windows. Depends how far gone they are to see if you can polish them back. Usually the stitching fails and needs to be re-sewn.

I found some videos on YouTube the other day on refurbing soft windows on convertible tops and Jeeps when I was wondering the same thing.

I saw Plexus plastic cleaner and Meguiar's PlastX recommended and both seem to have good reviews.

I'd be interested in hearing anyone's experiences with those or other products as well!



Thank you! Was not familiar with them.

Anyone know if a rear curtain for a four man is the same as a rear curtain on a two man? I've got everything to convert my truck from four man to two man, and back again, except for a two man top, rails, and curtain.

The curtains are different. As for the parts you are missing, the best process I have found is at Equipment Parts Sales

Wooo hooo!

EUC APPROVED!

Way ahead of schedule too!

Going to be going down to pick her up tomorrow!

Must be nice!







congrats!  Hopefully I can post the same next week.  Post lots of pics!  I read online that some have sprayed WD40 on the CARC to make it shine instead of repainting.  That might be something you consider.  I sprayed a bracket last night with some WD and it looks really pretty compared to the dry brackets.



 

Now the real fun begins. Have you picked a configuration you want (keep it like it is, cargo cover or no cargo cover, turn it into a slant back, or go to a GMV style vehicle)?

I found a few issues with mine when I got it, mainly pain and some dents in the bed that were not noticeable in the pictures. You will find that there is a lot of dirt hidden in these vehicles especially the A pillar.

I guess you could say I'll be going for a bit of GMV/expedition vehicle setup. The soft top and soft doors, and being able to take them off, are one of the things I really like about the truck. Cargo cover was one of the first accessories I picked up for it but, I do have the cargo partition and am ordering the seal kit for it so I can run it without the cargo cover and not have to worry too much about rain getting in. May have to add some industrial Velcro as well to close off any gaps.

A thorough spray down and soap scrub are one of the first things planned. Top priorities will be seats and exterior lights though. I'll move on to bumpers and tire carrier after that.

Going to have to take a week off work in the near future.

That was how I originally started out. But then decided to go with the full GMV/SF type vehicle with the hard roof and half doors (still have full x doors to switch back and forth). Will still have the soft top rear curtain to drop down when needed and 4 man crew divider with seal to keep water from running into the cab area. Main reason was the price of tan soft tops and soft tops in general is outrageous and I don't want to be buying another soft top in a few years. Also gives me another shooting platform and place to mount more lights.

Will look like the one in this link or I will go with the new style roll bar and side slats that require less drilling into the body.

As for you upgrading the lights and adding the bumper, I recommend if you are going to paint to remove the old ones, paint, then put the new ones on. Lot easier to clean and paint with them out of your way.