Thanks for the input. Yes, the GG&G barrel nut has a groove the clamp fits in. You are probably right about just mounting to the handguard.

FWIW, even without the light mounted the mag tube clamp walks.

I don't use magazine clamps on my shotguns because I've not found that they do anything but become yet another thing to keep track of.




The new one is the tits:




Those MLOK slots on the adapter are great for this kind of application. It should do a much better job of keeping the light attached and the mount solid.

aaaand I missed them.  Again.  

By the time I get mine back this thread might be archived.  

@Parke1
@greyeyezz

Wake up!  Back in stock tonight. Just got one 25% off!

You’re right, the fix was a thin rubber gasket. I literally cut four small strips from the rubber gasket that came on one of my redimags, even with the rail and the sling mount installed the clamp doesn’t move. I like having a sling mount option way out there for when I have to carry the gun slung while moving, it is not needed really, just nice to have and makes carrying it a little more comfortable. Otherwise I would probably remove the clamp as well. I don’t really have an excuse for the rail piece on the other side except I’m OCD and don’t like the exposed bolt look.

My only criticism on this new adapter piece is the material. I would have really liked to have it made out of aluminum or at least offered as an option. It would have probably been expensive but I would have sprung for it. The polymer mlok slots gall and the long term durability concerns me. It is better than the old mounting location on the handguard itself though, that mounting point wasn’t really well suited for carrying the weight of a weapon light. I was just waiting for it to crack on me. I’m sure the polymer design for that adapter is fine though. I’m nit picking. Aridus really did a fantastic job on the update, I’ve been asking about a solution to that rear most MLOK slot for ever. Prior to the update I had some janky, cobbled together sling mount thing that only uses half an MLOK slot that I made out of drilling out a grov tech QD mount and modding it to work with a MLOK T nut.

Now if I can just get him to redesign the stock adapter to integrate an 8 round side saddle. The using adhesive and Velcro is a bandaid solution to carrying extra shells. I don’t really think the optic mount threads are suitable to carry that kind of weight under dynamic load like Mesa is trying to do with their optic mount/side saddle design. Besides they are only offering it in a six round version despite the 1301 and A300 being 8 round shotguns. This is just an oversight on their part IMO. The stock adapter could be set up to attach his removable side saddle design only with the extra length he’d be able to offer it in an 8 round configuration. You could still use adhesive to mitigate flex under recoil and add some stability since you’d have 8 shells and the saddle it’s self hanging off the stock adapter but the adhesive wouldn’t be critical to the performance. If it got cold or wet you wouldn’t have to worry about the failure dumping shells on the ground.





Attached File

Gaaaaah! Again! Well, I appreciate the attempt.

Still haven’t heard anything from the lgs that put me on the allocation list for one in trade for a cz shadow 2. Might go by tomorrow and see what’s up. It’s been 2 weeks

They are all allocated and in high demand.. Unless your lgs is a high volume dealer, they aren't going to get one right away. May take months

I meant to ask you John, how do you like that texture on the V2? I am using essentially silicone carbide but it dry a the hell out of my hands to the point I end up putting on gloves which isn’t always so comfortable in the heat.

Good to know, they certainly aren’t a high volume dealer, very small place. Thank you

Got my 1301 Pro lifter from Beretta today. Fast shipping. Installation was quick but very fiddly.

For those of us about to attempt the same, any pearls of wisdom?

I found a vid on the toob, guy with a multicam A300UP walks through it. No actual video of the steps, IAW commie social media. He mentions a couple pearls of wisdom.

IIRC from this morning, once you get the trigger pin out, pull the trigger group out. Lay it flat, with the left-side of the trigger assembly toward the table (on it's left side).  After removing the tiny 'D' shaped wire spring from the hollow large pin, tap the large/hollow pin down/out. The tiny 'D' shaped wire fits inside the groove of the trigger pin, when assembled in the receiver. Gotta remove that tiny 'D' first, before taking out the lifter. Don't try to 'push the hollow pin down/out with the 'D' wire installed. That'll likely bend or stretch it out. Gotta look closely.

All the aforementioned, while pressing to the rear on the thin plastic arm to put slack on the lifter's heavy pin/spring. Fiddly lol. There's a short aluminum pin with a large diameter head which keeps the small plastic arm inside the trigger assembly. Also allows the tiny plastic arm to rotate against the lifter spring's tension. It'll come out at this point so keep control of the lifter spring/pin. That small lifter spring is stout for its size.

Big help when reassembling. Push the larger hollow pin back ^up through the trigger assembly and through the lifter. When reinstalling the tiny 'D' spring wire (which captures the lifter onto that hollow pin and also captures the trigger pin when it's in the receiver) place the flat section of the 'D' into the cutout area of the large hollow pin.  Keep your thumb or small screw driver over the flat section of the 'D' and push the curved section of the 'D' down over that hollow pin. Keeps the 'D' in place so it doesn't fly off and disappear. It's really tiny. Plenty of light helps discover the small cutout in the hollow pin where the flat of the 'D' lives.

Sounds complicated but once the new lifter is placed next to the trigger assembly on a table, it makes sense.

I just completed the lifter mod and for once this was a mod that was worth every penny. All said and done this took me 20 min.

Tools I used were.

Small punch for trigger housing removal
Small needle nose pliers for d ring
A light hammer for punch to tap out trigger housing pin

That was all I used

This was the instruction video I used.
Video

The Pro lifter is easily the single best upgrade you can do to the 1301 or A300. The 1301 is coming standard with the pro lifter now. I doubt they will make it standard for the A300UP since it widens the feature gap between the two and helps Beretta justify their new significant price difference between the A300 and 1301.

This is my first auto shotgun. Explain how this is an upgrade? Please.

The upgraded lifter rests in the UP position instead of the down position. What that allows for is a much easier time topping off your magazine tube especially under stress. Shells feed MUCH more quickly and there is much less fumbling around. Under stress or a timer this process would be much more difficult with the oem lifter.

I did notice that mine wasn't as easy or fast to load as my mossberg 590A1 and 500 I am used to.

This. It makes a clear path to the magazine tube and with the A300UPs opened up loading port, it makes it even better than the 1301 in terms of giving lots of room to easily load shells.

Taking my a300up to a 2 day shotgun course next weekend. Really looking forward to it. First long gun class.

Symtac Consulting?

Yessir

I was a day late signing up. Its right down the road from me. They are supposed to give me a call if anyone drops out before the class. Hope I can make it.
One of the best shotgun classes there is.

I shot about 200 rounds of mixed buckshot, slugs and a bunch of birdshot at a combat shotgun course this past Sunday.  The A300 ran really well.  Just a couple of failure to eject on some light low brass birdshot.  Everything else cycled fine Attached File
Attached File
Attached File