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Posted: 1/20/2008 7:41:26 AM EDT
[#1]
CLP |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 7:51:09 AM EDT
[#2]
And now we must ask...which one? |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 8:29:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Breakfree |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 8:34:25 AM EDT
[#4]
dont forget the current CLP Royco. |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 12:10:27 PM EDT
[#5]
Weapon Shield is GREAT! also try www.mil-comm.com for the tw25b
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Posted: 1/20/2008 1:48:59 PM EDT
[#6]
+1 for CLP Breakfree
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Posted: 1/20/2008 1:56:53 PM EDT
[#7]
You can argue which lube is best, combat or other wise.
This is one of those heavily opinionated subjects, and usually these types of threads end up getting a little defensive. Everyone has their favorite lube and it’s only natural to want to defend your decision as to the lube that you use. I personally use Break-Free CLP as a general light lube/cleaner, and use Break-Free LP as my main lube. This is the Army’s stance on using lubes other than CLP. Take it as you wish.  
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Posted: 1/20/2008 2:07:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Here, for what it's worth, is what Larry Vickers has to say in detail:
"Last thing I will cover is choice of lubricant. First off any lube is better than no lube. Just because you don't have your favorite synthetic gun oil doesn't mean you don't lube your weapon. With that being said in my experience the thin light lubes like WD40 and RemOil are to be avoided. They will provide a rust barrier and that is about it; they are not suitable for moving parts lubricant. There are alot of lubes on the market but I still like TW25B for a grease type lube and Militec for a wet lube. My friend Ken Hackathorn swears by aircraft grade Lubriplate and has used it for years as a grease type lube. The grease type lubricants require more effort to apply but tend to stay put longer. TW25B is superb for crew served weapons like belt feed machine guns and is the best lubricant I have ever seen for sandy or wet environments. In my old unit we affectionately call it 'desert jizz' because once we started using it the reliability of our belt fed weapons increased dramatically in extreme environments such as the desert. Highly recommended." |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 6:47:48 PM EDT
[#9]
The part in blue is more important than his particular choice. He likes TW25-b while his friend like Lubriplate for a grease. If Militec-1 had lived up to two of it's claims, I might believe it claim to also be a good lube. As it stands, I don't think it's any better than Break Free LP, Tetra, FP10, Weapon Shield, Slip 2000, or anything else. It's a step up from Remington oil, and Hoppes, but that's about it. Just use any oil that's thicker than water and you should be ok. |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 7:21:19 PM EDT
[#10]
I've always used Break-Free CLP. On all my firearms. I found this web site recently called www.iso-parts.com.
Putting in the NSN for CLP, I get the following: Details for NSN: 9150-01-054-6453 Associated Part Numbers BREAK-FREE CLP CLP-NC CLP-5 MIL-L-63460 MIL-PRF-63460 NYCOLUBE 127 ROYCO 634 9150010546453 010546453 01-054-6453 My guess is it any of these would be good. |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 7:35:51 PM EDT
[#11]
so is rem oil ok to use in my ar? or is it too thin? i sprayed everything down with rem oil about a week ago and checked it today. the internals looked to be dry. is this normal? kinda bothered me
so now about the clp. isnt there a thread that was discussing how soldiers were having jamming issues while using clp? or is this more BS? i watched the video on the militec site that showed the tv station report on the issues involving clp. what did you guys think of that video? more bs? |
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Posted: 1/20/2008 7:42:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Fortunately, there almost no 'bad' lubes out there.
Some work better then others in some areas. Heres my personal experience. Breakfree CLP: Not the best cleaner, not the best lube, not the best protestant, but does all three well, this is what I use the most. Love the stuff. SLIP 2000: Appeared to work as a good lube, did not seem to work as a protectent. I didn't try it for cleaning. I still got a little left I keep in a range bag for relubeing during range sessions. Miltec: If I recall correctly, this best works if applied to hot metal. Worked well as lube and protectent on my 1911 and AR15. However I personally did not find it to be overall superior to CLP, so I used up my supply and returned to BF CLP. FP-10: So far, it has been an excellent lubricant. I have not tried using it for cleaning or protecting, If I am lubing moving parts, I grab my bottle of FP10. Gun Butter: EXPENSIVE. Best lube I have used, and stays in place well, better then CLP. Doesn't seem to burn off either. However it is expensive, so I use it sparingly in a few places, and FP-10 to lube elsewhere, and CLP to clean and wipe down my guns. Personally, I think I will continue to use solvents to clean my guns, and when my current stocks are up, I will just use breakfree CLP and small applications of gun butter. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 12:51:07 AM EDT
[#13]
Castrol Syntec 10W30.
 Seriously; I used it on my SAW, works fine. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 1:10:41 AM EDT
[#14]
tried just about all mentioned above.........
i now stick with TW25 and/or Slip 2000 EWL(Extreme Weapons Lube) depending on the use |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 1:48:05 AM EDT
[#15]
Best, as you can see is pretty subjective. Environment and usage play key parts as to what works best.
Personally, I like FP10. I also have great success with mobil 1 synthetic 80w for gears. Smells a little different when you get the gun hot but works well. Specs far exceed the heat range the rifle will ever live through and it's cheap compared to every "gun" lube. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 5:17:41 AM EDT
[#16]
thanks for all the replys. i added a poll to the thread. it had limited options so i tried to pick the ones i felt were a little more popular.
i would like to find a lube that stayes put while your shooting. i dont like to look in the gun after a few rounds (or a week of sitting) and notice its "dry" looking. that bugs me should i stop using my rem oil? and go back to a heavier lube? |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 5:21:12 AM EDT
[#17]
Damn.
First to hit the pole!! +1 for CLP |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 5:32:22 AM EDT
[#18]
In before the accusations that the Army's tests are all rigged because the tester receive kickbacks from the company that makes the current product (ignoring, of course, that if another product worked better across the board, that formula could just be standardized and the at Breakfree / Royco whoever could just sell it, instead - funny too if Breakfree has indeed lost the CLP contract to Royco, how will the conspiracy theorists explain that?) |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 5:44:35 AM EDT
[#19]
I have used and till use on occasion CLP... but I notice that over time it dries oit very quickly. I have since tried Extreme Weapons lube and I gotta say I love this shit. I use it in combination with their Carbon Killer, and it's so easy to clean you wouldn't believe it... Pretty pricey, but worth it!
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Posted: 1/21/2008 7:42:01 AM EDT
[#20]
If you want to go with a non military lube. Give WS CLP a try.
BF CLP is a mil std that works if you lube your rifle correct. I would not use remoil. For most of the lubes your going to see posted it is like spliting hairs, just about all the oils that are about as thick as CLP will work just fine. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 8:15:09 AM EDT
[#21]
BF CLP is what military tests says works. I dont have the equipment, ammo, enviorment, time or money to debunk those results.
Im a gunsmith and i can say that i have tried almost every lube. People are always trying to turn me to another type of lube. I have a pretty open mind. I like to use the best i can get, but i always go back to BF. Of all the other lubes/CLP breakfree has worked the best on what my requirements are. You can take a filthy/dirty/abused rifle or pistol and soak the weapon in BF CLP. Let it sit for a week, go back and blow it off with compressed air and it will be as clean as if you detail stripped it. Its good stuff. no other lube or CLP has performed this well for me. If i had to pick a substitute for BF CLP i like best i would say Weapon Shield. I like the smell better than BF CLP, and it seems to be a better lube, but it dosent clean as good as BF CLP in the enviorment i use it in. Its great stuff though. It really suprises me that Larry Vickers likes Miltec. The stuff is terrible. you would be better off using bleach to lube than that stuff. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 3:08:58 PM EDT
[#22]
CLP since the 80`S
I do like the ELEPHANT SPERM ALOT !!!! Very Very Good Stuff |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 3:13:08 PM EDT
[#23]
Good ole US Army Issued CLP.
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Posted: 1/21/2008 3:36:29 PM EDT
[#24]
CLP.
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Posted: 1/21/2008 3:58:14 PM EDT
[#25]
Where is the cheapest place to buy CLP?
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Posted: 1/21/2008 6:21:06 PM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 1/21/2008 6:21:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Walmart usually has it. So will Gander Mountain, Cabellas, and, Bass Pro Shops. Or you could go to your nearest gun shop or range and pick up some. Look for the black bottle with yellow lettering. Breakfree CLP! |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 6:29:58 PM EDT
[#28]
CLP all the way.
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Posted: 1/21/2008 6:32:33 PM EDT
[#29]
C L P
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Posted: 1/21/2008 7:09:55 PM EDT
[#30]
really walmart? what dept? |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 7:18:51 PM EDT
[#31]
You can find it in the Gun/Ammo department with the cleaning gear. |
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Posted: 1/21/2008 7:46:55 PM EDT
[#32]
i tried cabelas online but didnt see it. ill try walmart tomorrow!
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Posted: 1/21/2008 8:37:33 PM EDT
[#33]
clp
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Posted: 1/22/2008 5:18:12 AM EDT
[#34]
for the guys who are using a synthetic motor oil..
how well does it stay on the parts after a few hundred rounds? does it attract dirt and carbon? just curious because i am an amsoil dealer and got a few quarts of different weights sitting around. 20-50 and 10-30.. also anyone know what the properties are that make up clp? |
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Posted: 1/22/2008 11:30:42 AM EDT
[#35]
PAO, some ester, solvent, and PTFE.
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Posted: 1/22/2008 12:53:38 PM EDT
[#36]
well i went to walmart today and they had 2 different cans of break free.
i bought the smaller one that was labeled break free CLP. i think its a 4oz can. the other can was quite bigger and was labeled breakfree powder? or something to that effect. i figured it was the wrong stuff so i stayed away from it. did i get the right stuff? |
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Posted: 1/22/2008 1:08:55 PM EDT
[#37]
.
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Posted: 1/22/2008 1:13:58 PM EDT
[#38]
Yes, you bought the right stuff. Personally, I prefer the BF CLP in a plastic bottle for lubing. It’s a bit thicker due to less solvent verses the CLP in the aerosol can. The larger spray can was BF Powder Blast which is strictly for cleaning and is similar to gun scrubber just a bit friendlier. Take a look at BF’s web site for a closer look at their products: Break-Free |
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Posted: 1/22/2008 2:17:07 PM EDT
[#39]
awesome. i will try and find some of the thicker lube rather than aerosol can stuff i got.
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Posted: 1/22/2008 2:53:29 PM EDT
[#40]
It should be the same thickness after the solvent evaporates off. It will just be more runny straight out of the can compared to the stuff in the bottle.
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Posted: 1/22/2008 3:03:14 PM EDT
[#41]
awesome. does anyone have a link to the tests done by the military on this lube vs the others? i think it would be interesting to read
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Posted: 1/22/2008 3:11:27 PM EDT
[#42]
True. 
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Posted: 1/22/2008 3:12:44 PM EDT
[#43]
I don't. I've posted everything I have. I'd love myself to get ahold of that info though! |
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Posted: 1/23/2008 5:25:43 AM EDT
[#44]
when you go to apply the clp are you guys cleaning off all of the old lube with a solvent and then letting the new parts soak? or just spray it on and put back together?
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Posted: 1/23/2008 5:35:41 AM EDT
[#45]
You Clean it with CLP. You Lube it with CLP. You Protect it with CLP. |
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Posted: 1/23/2008 6:19:00 AM EDT
[#46]
There are 2 ways i clean. Easier Method: Spray or rub all internal parts, and bore with CLP after shooting, and let sit for 3 days. Go back and strip the weapon per the weapon manufacturers instruction manual, or further if skilled enough. Wipe down and brush all internal parts down to repove the old CLP, and relube with CLP and assemble. This method is easier because the 3 days allows the cleaners in the CLP to really cut into the Carbon, and Powder desidue to make cleanup easy. Immediate Method: Some men cant sleep knowing they have a dirty rifle. Strip the weapon per the weapon manufacturers instruction manual, or further if skilled enough. Wipe down and brush all internal parts down with CLP on a cleaning mat. When all parts have been covered with a light coat of CLP go back and start wiping/brushing the carbon and powder residue off. Now relube with CLP and assemble. This method is harder because the CLP doesnt have alot of time to really cut into the Carbon, and Powder desidue to make cleanup easy. CLP works good as a bore cleaner but you will need a seperate copper solvent if you shoot alot of rounds through your barrel. Hoppes #9 Benchrest Copper Solvent is a safe copper solvent. The hoppes isnt necessary after every range trip, just maybe every 300+ rounds. If your shooting modern ammo the above cleaning methods will serve you well. If your shooting Military Surplus ammo then you have to take extra steps to remove the corossive salts from your weapon with hot water and soap before cleaning. If you dont the corrosive salts will eat your bolt, chamber and bore. Oil and solvent does not remove corossive salts, only water does. |
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Posted: 1/23/2008 11:03:43 AM EDT
[#47]
interesting. i only shoot modern personal reloaded ammo. some wolf every now and again
so now back to the synthetic motor oil. this kind of interests me. synthetic oil has been proven to provide superior protection and improved performance in engines. can the same principles be seen when using it as a lubricant in a firearm? synthetics resist breakdown related to heat. work well in hot/cold conditions. clean well, etc. thoughts? |
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Posted: 1/23/2008 11:05:29 AM EDT
[#48]
wow just checked the poll. clp by a landslide......
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Posted: 1/23/2008 11:14:32 AM EDT
[#49]
BF CLP for me.
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Posted: 1/23/2008 2:19:23 PM EDT
[#50]
.
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