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Link Posted: 4/10/2010 9:05:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Man. Some of these look really good, but some of these look like ass.
Link Posted: 4/10/2010 10:19:33 PM EDT
[#2]





Sorry the color is a bit washed out but thats model masters dark tan which is more of Coyote color than FDE.
Link Posted: 4/11/2010 10:01:20 AM EDT
[#3]
Looking good 'gents! I especially like the Mega and AP lowers above.
Link Posted: 4/15/2010 1:07:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Excellent info in this thread
Link Posted: 4/16/2010 9:14:35 AM EDT
[#6]
I could not find the paint pens at walmart. Anyplace else have them maybe?
Link Posted: 4/16/2010 12:13:53 PM EDT
[#7]
craft section near the material and cake decorating supplies.
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 7:37:50 AM EDT
[#8]
My little contribution. Used Testors:


  • Insignia Red FS31136 - 1/2 oz. Bottle

  • Insignia White FS17875 - 1/2 oz. Bottle

  • Dark Earth (ANA617) (F) MM - 1/2 oz. Bottle


Link Posted: 4/17/2010 8:02:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:

Under sunlight it has a very slightly mottled look to the finish.
Also it seems this particular serial number range has a problem with some magazine release buttons

I've had the lower built up and will post pictures some time next week


You wouldn't know it from your pic.  Looks clean and flawless and I hope you are laughing all the way to the bank for what you spent!!!.  Looking forward to the build pics!  


Pics are posted in the DSA Industry forum
Link Posted: 4/20/2010 6:48:20 AM EDT
[#10]
I used the Testors paint and I'm happy with the results.

Link Posted: 4/29/2010 2:19:37 PM EDT
[#11]







Quoted:







Sorry the color is a bit washed out but thats model masters dark tan which is more of Coyote color than FDE.




I like the color fill on the side of the BAD lever.  I'm stealing that idea.









 
 
Link Posted: 4/29/2010 3:13:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Done did it too, model paint

before


after
Link Posted: 4/30/2010 5:53:53 AM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 4/30/2010 10:09:11 AM EDT
[#14]
Most probably already know this, but some minimal preparation is needed before you paint. Usually just a good cleaning with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner of the roll marks to be painted is sufficient to remove existing oils, solvents or other gun cleaning chemicals that may be present. Paint always sticks best to a good clean non-oily surface. I use a gun patch wetted with one of the above and rub over the roll marks and then let it air dry for a minute or two. Make sure all fuzzies and lint are removed as well.  Then begin to paint.

ETA: I went through this entire thread and tried to capture every relevant input from all the posters into one chart to show how to use, clean up and take off any type of material listed in this thread to date. Some small things may have been omitted, but I tried to capture the more frequently used techniques and typed it and saved it as a jpeg file for anyone to copy if they wish.


Link Posted: 5/1/2010 5:33:55 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Most probably already know this, but some minimal preparation is needed before you paint. Usually just a good cleaning with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner of the roll marks to be painted is sufficient to remove existing oils, solvents or other gun cleaning chemicals that may be present. Paint always sticks best to a good clean non-oily surface. I use a gun patch wetted with one of the above and rub over the roll marks and then let it air dry for a minute or two. Make sure all fuzzies and lint are removed as well.  Then begin to paint.

ETA: I went through this entire thread and tried to capture every relevant input from all the posters into one chart to show how to use, clean up and take off any type of material listed in this thread to date. Some small things may have been omitted, but I tried to capture the more frequently used techniques and typed it and saved it as a jpeg file for anyone to copy if they wish.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq19/TexasPatriot/How_to_Paint_Roll_Marks00011.jpg






Saved and great job!!!!!!!!!!!
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 11:40:53 AM EDT
[#16]
Funny...I just removed the roll mark color fill on 2 of my rifles. Thats the nice thing about crayon, it goes in and stays in until you want to remove it. Took a regular nylon cleaning brush and scrubbed out all the crayola in about 10 minutes. Back to dark and subdued!
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 4:11:15 PM EDT
[#17]
nice picture glad someone started this
Link Posted: 5/1/2010 5:17:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Funny...I just removed the roll mark color fill on 2 of my rifles. Thats the nice thing about crayon, it goes in and stays in until you want to remove it. Took a regular nylon cleaning brush and scrubbed out all the crayola in about 10 minutes. Back to dark and subdued!


True, but all of the above methods can be removed easily in about 10 minutes.
Link Posted: 5/2/2010 1:16:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Anyone have any pics with using the Lacquer Stick from Brownells? I'm thinking of ordering red and white and giving them a hoot... although I haven't seen any photos in here of anyone that has used them.
Link Posted: 5/3/2010 6:56:48 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Y'all have done some nice work, there.  It's great to think outside the box, but sometimes it's good to remember where the box is, and usually, it's at Brownell's.
Unless you want a work of art requiring eleventy-seven colors, you might consider a simple solution designed for this purpose:
Laquer Stik, $4.99 per stick.  Takes a few minutes, no mess, no brushes, nothing to spill or run.
Rub it in, wipe off the excess with a little mineral oil and a rag. Once it dries, it's on there.
Red 517-100-001   white 517-100-002  gold   517-100-003  black  517-100-004
[ETA link: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=1291/k=/t=S/Products/Inlay_Color_Fill_Sticks]


http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/l_517100001_1.jpg

 


But apparently from the post above,  Hopps #9 will remove it so..... No-Go!

Link Posted: 5/9/2010 1:01:24 AM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 5/16/2010 7:20:40 AM EDT
[#22]
Crayon sounds easy.....How would it be removed?
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