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Posted: 7/8/2014 12:33:49 PM EST
[#1]
The things that will make your gun usable or not at distance are barrel,trigger, mount and optic (assuming you can do your part).
Everything else comes behind in descending orders of priority down to fluff. I don't see an optic mount, and the oem trigger is going to suck some modest ass. I would skip the gimmicky sideways buis unless this is a three gun rig,and the surefire comp and put a trigger in it. |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 12:38:28 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The things that will make your gun usable or not at distance are barrel,trigger, mount and optic (assuming you can do your part). Everything else comes behind in descending orders of priority down to fluff. I don't see an optic mount, and the oem trigger is going to suck some modest ass. I would skip the gimmicky sideways buis unless this is a three gun rig,and the surefire comp and put a trigger in it. I hadn't decided on an optic mount yet. You make a good point about the trigger. I'll get that before BUIS. Any recommendations? |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 12:45:49 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hadn't decided on an optic mount yet. You make a good point about the trigger. I'll get that before BUIS. Any recommendations? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The things that will make your gun usable or not at distance are barrel,trigger, mount and optic (assuming you can do your part). Everything else comes behind in descending orders of priority down to fluff. I don't see an optic mount, and the oem trigger is going to suck some modest ass. I would skip the gimmicky sideways buis unless this is a three gun rig,and the surefire comp and put a trigger in it. I hadn't decided on an optic mount yet. You make a good point about the trigger. I'll get that before BUIS. Any recommendations? Giessle SSA-E |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 2:00:02 PM EST
[#4]
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly.
I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 2:17:54 PM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 2:20:44 PM EST
[#6]
Some quick detach mounts can hold zero very good, but for a serious precision rig, I put a solid fixed mount on it. Scope leveled perfectly with the bore for long distance accuracy.
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Posted: 7/8/2014 2:30:42 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Double taps don't require much in the way of proper technique to keep both shots in the A-zone. I can fire 10 round strings as fast as I can manipulate the trigger and keep all shots in the A-zone with just an A2 flash hider so what is your point? |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 2:33:52 PM EST
[#8]
As far as shooting off a bipod many people with proper technique loading the bipod shoot much larger calibers without a brake and have no issue controlling recoil.
If you aren't a very serious 3 gun competitor and are just shooting at the range a comp is silly imo. If you use a comp on your home defense weapon that is 
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Posted: 7/8/2014 3:39:14 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As far as shooting off a bipod many people with proper technique loading the bipod shoot much larger calibers without a brake and have no issue controlling recoil. If you aren't a very serious 3 gun competitor and are just shooting at the range a comp is silly imo. If you use a comp on your home defense weapon that is I wouldn't e using the bipod for recoil control as much as I would stability (having to worry about breathing as much, etc). |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 8:34:33 PM EST
[#10]
Geiselle SSA-E triggers are very nice and Aero Precision makes some nice light weight scope mounts. Sure fire makes a good brake but is very loud. Check out BRT Comps, they work very well for half the price.
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Posted: 7/8/2014 10:15:37 PM EST
[#11]
I agree a trigger is probably a high priority. I have a Geissele SSA-E and like it a lot. The Miculek brake from DPMS is a nice piece for the price if you think you want a brake but IMO unless you plan on making fast follow-up shots, you might save your wallet and ears and stick with an A2 FH. As far as the stripped lower, they're mostly all the same but I think it's worth it for a 7075 over a 6000 series. I've personally had good experiences with Delton and PSA. PSA might be a good idea since it sounds like you deal with them. I built a lower with one of their blemish lowers and the only flaw I could find was a small machining mark inside the trigger area. For the price, I like the Burris PEPR mount. It is foreign made but it's solid and many people claim it'll hold zero when removed and replaced; I've never tried. Finally, are you sure you want a BUIS at all? It sounds like you say you want a long range precision gun but are trying to build a 3-gun setup.
Best of luck with your build and post pics when you get it together! |
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Posted: 7/8/2014 11:51:25 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't e using the bipod for recoil control as much as I would stability (having to worry about breathing as much, etc). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
As far as shooting off a bipod many people with proper technique loading the bipod shoot much larger calibers without a brake and have no issue controlling recoil. If you aren't a very serious 3 gun competitor and are just shooting at the range a comp is silly imo. If you use a comp on your home defense weapon that is I wouldn't e using the bipod for recoil control as much as I would stability (having to worry about breathing as much, etc). lol...the bipod can most definitely be used to help recoil control. Loading the bipod will help with recoil control as well as stability. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 1:50:56 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:For the price, I like the Burris PEPR mount. It is foreign made but it's solid and many people claim it'll hold zero when removed and replaced; I've never tried. Can confirm that they hold very close to zero after removal and replacement... |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 3:27:52 AM EST
[#14]
I'd recommend a rifle length gas system. Longer dwell time to maximize powder burn.
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Posted: 7/9/2014 3:45:27 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 6:23:48 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some quick detach mounts can hold zero very good, but for a serious precision rig, I put a solid fixed mount on it. Scope leveled perfectly with the bore for long distance accuracy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some quick detach mounts can hold zero very good, but for a serious precision rig, I put a solid fixed mount on it. Scope leveled perfectly with the bore for long distance accuracy. I would lean this way as well Quoted:
Double taps don't require much in the way of proper technique to keep both shots in the A-zone. I can fire 10 round strings as fast as I can manipulate the trigger and keep all shots in the A-zone with just an A2 flash hider so what is your point? Congrats... 
There's no sense in NOT running a comp on a precision gun. It can only help. ya, it may be a crutch but it won't negatively affect this gun's performance Quoted:
Geiselle SSA-E triggers are very nice and Aero Precision makes some nice light weight scope mounts. Sure fire makes a good brake but is very loud. Check out BRT Comps, they work very well for half the price. The SF procomp is $59. He's not talking about the $130 suppressor mounts Quoted:
I'd recommend a rifle length gas system. Longer dwell time to maximize powder burn. +1 |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 6:29:00 AM EST
[#17]
If your serious about long range with ar15, you may want to consider the 6.5 grendel. It will give you advantage in energy and wind drift over 223.
Factory hornady 123 match ammo should give you about 2400fps with 18" barrel 1000 feet altitude 70 degrees 6.5 grendel 123gr amax hornady factory ammo 2400 fps 10mph 90 degree left crosswind 500 yards up 13.8 moa, right 3.7 moa, energy 771 ft lbs 1000 yards up 44.5 moa, right 8.5 moa, energy 375 ft lbs 69 grain SMK federal gold match at 2900 fps 500 yards up 11.4 moa, right 5.7 moa, energy 415 ft lbs 1000 yards up 45.3 moa, right 14.4 moa, energy 153 ft lbs 55 grain vmax hornady match at 3100 fps 500 yards up 11.0 moa, right 6.8 energy 292 ft lbs 1000 yards up 50.4 moa, right 17.6 moa, energy 100 ft lbs These examples at midway 6.5 grendel $23.99 FGM 223 $32.49 hornady 223 55 gr $18.79 If you do choose .223 i would get twist for the heavy bullets. You cant deny the advantages of the 223 though, definately has the advantage of ammo availabilty and can find cheap plinking rounds. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:09:52 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your serious about long range with ar15, you may want to consider the 6.5 grendel. It will give you advantage in energy and wind drift over 223. Factory hornady 123 match ammo should give you about 2400fps with 18" barrel 1000 feet altitude 70 degrees 6.5 grendel 123gr amax hornady factory ammo 2400 fps 10mph 90 degree left crosswind 500 yards up 13.8 moa, right 3.7 moa, energy 771 ft lbs 1000 yards up 44.5 moa, right 8.5 moa, energy 375 ft lbs 69 grain SMK federal gold match at 2900 fps 500 yards up 11.4 moa, right 5.7 moa, energy 415 ft lbs 1000 yards up 45.3 moa, right 14.4 moa, energy 153 ft lbs 55 grain vmax hornady match at 3100 fps 500 yards up 11.0 moa, right 6.8 energy 292 ft lbs 1000 yards up 50.4 moa, right 17.6 moa, energy 100 ft lbs These examples at midway 6.5 grendel $23.99 FGM 223 $32.49 hornady 223 55 gr $18.79 If you do choose .223 i would get twist for the heavy bullets. You cant deny the advantages of the 223 though, definately has the advantage of ammo availabilty and can find cheap plinking rounds. I actually put quite a lot of research into 6.5 grendel when I decided to build a LR AR, but decided to not go that route because of ammo cost and availability. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:11:58 AM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? If it's purpose-built for long range there is no need to double-tap. Brakes are a nuisance unless you are running and gunning. Otherwise they just make the gun louder than it needs to be and annoy folks next to you at the range. Want long-range accuracy? Go without a muzzle device and have a nice crown put on your barrel. Similar to above--- shooter > barrel > ammo > glass > trigger > free-float that mutha... |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:24:19 AM EST
[#20]
Heavier and longer barrels lend themselves to LRP more than compensators or brakes.
Why are you limiting yourself to an 18" barrel? The best performing dedicated LRP ARs I've seen have 24" or even 26" match barrels. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:34:58 AM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Heavier and longer barrels lend themselves to LRP more than compensators or brakes. Why are you limiting yourself to an 18" barrel? The best performing dedicated LRP ARs I've seen have 24" or even 26" match barrels. I don't want it to be too big and cumbersome. I'd be willing to go to 20" but I don't know about 24". How do shilen barrels perform? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1554149263/shilen-drop-in-match-barrel-with-bolt-ar-15-223-remington-wylde-service-rifle-hbar-contour-20-stainless-steel?cm_vc=ProductFinding Do you think this would out-match the noveske I was originally thinking of? |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:45:36 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it's purpose-built for long range there is no need to double-tap. Brakes are a nuisance unless you are running and gunning. Otherwise they just make the gun louder than it needs to be and annoy folks next to you at the range. Want long-range accuracy? Go without a muzzle device and have a nice crown put on your barrel. Similar to above--- shooter > barrel > ammo > glass > trigger > free-float that mutha... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? If it's purpose-built for long range there is no need to double-tap. Brakes are a nuisance unless you are running and gunning. Otherwise they just make the gun louder than it needs to be and annoy folks next to you at the range. Want long-range accuracy? Go without a muzzle device and have a nice crown put on your barrel. Similar to above--- shooter > barrel > ammo > glass > trigger > free-float that mutha... But nobody wants a target crown, it doesn't look tacticool enough. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:50:27 AM EST
[#23]
Some other things to consider if you're focusing on long range accuracy:
-Match your barrel twist to the ammo you are most likely to shoot. -Consider going without chrome lining. |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:52:07 AM EST
[#24]
I think this looks pretty tacticool ;)
http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r718/97ZX-7R/photo32_zps2e72b604.jpg |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 7:59:36 AM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think this looks pretty tacticool ;) http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r718/97ZX-7R/photo32_zps2e72b604.jpg Gorgeous! |
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Posted: 7/9/2014 8:05:19 AM EST
[#26]
I just got a CMC 3.5 lb flat single stage trigger. I would recommend one of those, probably the curved one for long range shooting in your case. I couldn't be happier with it, it breaks so clean and the pull is perfect. Not too light that your afraid to set it off, but no BS when it comes down to pulling the trigger. Minimal (nearly no) travel, I can't feel any creep or grittiness. Definitely on par with the Timney, but for the slightly lower price, I'd go CMC.
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Posted: 7/9/2014 8:19:27 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just got a CMC 3.5 lb flat single stage trigger. I would recommend one of those, probably the curved one for long range shooting in your case. I couldn't be happier with it, it breaks so clean and the pull is perfect. Not too light that your afraid to set it off, but no BS when it comes down to pulling the trigger. Minimal (nearly no) travel, I can't feel any creep or grittiness. Definitely on par with the Timney, but for the slightly lower price, I'd go CMC. Congrats on making your first post, a year after you registered. 
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Posted: 7/9/2014 10:22:01 AM EST
[#28]
I have a 20" Ranier Ultra Match barrel. It's a Shilen barrel fluted and bead blasted by WOA for Ranier. Cost 5 bills, worth every penny. I can't shoot as well as this barrel can.
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Posted: 7/9/2014 1:52:30 PM EST
[#29]
hand loaded 69 grain smk at 2777 muzzle velocity...600 yards on my belly with a bipod these were the first 5 shots fired this day.
I'm also 4th place in the spr division of the moa all day challenge here on arfcom. I'm far from the best shooter and this is my first year getting into long range, but I've learned a lot in a short time. I'm at the range 2 or 3 times a week sometimes working on long range, sometimes working on cqb drills, and sometimes just having fun with my kids shooting. There are a few trends on this site that I don't like to follow... Light weight barrels. I have a couple when they get hot the point of impact changes and groups open up. They also have smaller accuracy nodes. Heavy barrels do not have near as much problem in those areas. If you do not have good technique light barrels or light guns in general will have more felt recoil and muzzle rise. Good technique can fix this, but often people choose to skip learning good technique and put a compensator on it. So now you gave up your flash hiding and made a much louder weapon instead of just learning good technique. Longer barrels give higher velocity. In my case I'm using a very mild load with an 18" barrel. I didn't know a lot about long range shooting when I built it or I would have gotten a 20" barrel. Obviously you want a free float setup for a precision weapon, but as far as a carbine I prefer a pinned fsb they can handle a lot more abuse. On an 18" barrel you can run a mid length gas system and this is what I have, but a rifle length system certainly will not hurt. At the same time a rifle length gas system isn't absolutely necessary on an 18" barrel either. Based upon what I've seen on the moa all day challenge if I bought another barrel for a precision ar15 today it would be a lothar walther they perform very very well. |
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Posted: 7/11/2014 6:01:09 AM EST
[#30]
So I'm a little at a loss as to ammo choice. I was originally thinking of 77gr BTHP, but then I read the scopes description and it says it's meant for 55gr bullets. Could I possibly damage the optics by shooting 77gr?
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Posted: 7/11/2014 6:35:53 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I'm a little at a loss as to ammo choice. I was originally thinking of 77gr BTHP, but then I read the scopes description and it says it's meant for 55gr bullets. Could I possibly damage the optics by shooting 77gr? No, you'll be fine. I'm not sure why they mention 55gr since it is a Mil Dot scope. If it was a bullet drop compensation reticle then they would have to list a specific bullet weight that it was calibrated for. |
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Posted: 7/11/2014 8:14:25 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Double taps don't require much in the way of proper technique to keep both shots in the A-zone. I can fire 10 round strings as fast as I can manipulate the trigger and keep all shots in the A-zone with just an A2 flash hider so what is your point? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Double taps don't require much in the way of proper technique to keep both shots in the A-zone. I can fire 10 round strings as fast as I can manipulate the trigger and keep all shots in the A-zone with just an A2 flash hider so what is your point? Edit to add: Just read the rest of the thread, and I see good advice about technique. Also good comments about long range prescision, which I did not take into consideration when I first commented. And: No doubt about the noise factor. Well, my rifle must be different than yours! It will not do that. Or I can't, maybe it's lack of skill, but I have immediate muzzle rise, and I tried and tried to over come it, but all I could figure out to do was add a good comp, and then I could stay on target. Again, it might be I just couldn't figure it out, but I really did try. The comp made it EASY to stay on target. I meant no disrespect, and really, recoil impluse can varie a lot from set up to set up, don't you think? |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 2:45:04 AM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, you'll be fine. I'm not sure why they mention 55gr since it is a Mil Dot scope. If it was a bullet drop compensation reticle then they would have to list a specific bullet weight that it was calibrated for. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So I'm a little at a loss as to ammo choice. I was originally thinking of 77gr BTHP, but then I read the scopes description and it says it's meant for 55gr bullets. Could I possibly damage the optics by shooting 77gr? No, you'll be fine. I'm not sure why they mention 55gr since it is a Mil Dot scope. If it was a bullet drop compensation reticle then they would have to list a specific bullet weight that it was calibrated for. Thank you! |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 4:24:20 AM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Edit to add: Just read the rest of the thread, and I see good advice about technique. Also good comments about long range prescision, which I did not take into consideration when I first commented. And: No doubt about the noise factor. Well, my rifle must be different than yours! It will not do that. Or I can't, maybe it's lack of skill, but I have immediate muzzle rise, and I tried and tried to over come it, but all I could figure out to do was add a good comp, and then I could stay on target. Again, it might be I just couldn't figure it out, but I really did try. The comp made it EASY to stay on target. I meant no disrespect, and really, recoil impluse can varie a lot from set up to set up, don't you think? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't understand the popularity of comps on 5.56 guns unless you are a very serious 3 gunner it seems silly. I believe the most important things to precision and accuracy with an ar15 are in order: shooter...barrel...ammo...trigger. If you don't reload then start. I do. For me, whith my first AR, I had a birdcage. Couldn't double tap anything. Not even close. As soon as I got a good compensator, I saw the light. Still on target after every shot. You really don't see why that might matter? Double taps don't require much in the way of proper technique to keep both shots in the A-zone. I can fire 10 round strings as fast as I can manipulate the trigger and keep all shots in the A-zone with just an A2 flash hider so what is your point? Edit to add: Just read the rest of the thread, and I see good advice about technique. Also good comments about long range prescision, which I did not take into consideration when I first commented. And: No doubt about the noise factor. Well, my rifle must be different than yours! It will not do that. Or I can't, maybe it's lack of skill, but I have immediate muzzle rise, and I tried and tried to over come it, but all I could figure out to do was add a good comp, and then I could stay on target. Again, it might be I just couldn't figure it out, but I really did try. The comp made it EASY to stay on target. I meant no disrespect, and really, recoil impluse can varie a lot from set up to set up, don't you think? Everyone has the right to their own opinion. It's not disrespectful to disagree. If you actually tried it without a comp that is much better than some people that just do things because it was popular here without ever doing their own testing. It's no different than entering your data into a ballistic calculator and assuming you can hit at 1000 yards without ever actually doing it and logging the actual drops in the density altitude you were in versus what the calculator said. There certainly are many things that can change the recoil impulse...gas system length, weight of bcg, ammo, buffer system, etc. I've even heard that the diameter of the gas hole in the barrel makes a difference, but I haven't gotten into that. A biggie that is over looked is lighter guns do have more felt recoil. There are many disadvantages to light weight barrels that people never consider, but get them because it's the popular thing to do. How many non-mil people actually lug their guns around several miles through ruff terrain where a few oz or even a single pound is going to make a difference? If it's a range toy, hunting gun, or home defense weapon I see no reason to go with all the super light weight stuff and fancy compensators. If you are a full on competitor building a gun specifically for racing and are competing against the best shooters then of course you want the best advantages for that situation you can get. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 5:43:48 AM EST
[#35]
So what should I get instead of a brake?
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Posted: 7/12/2014 6:35:41 AM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The things that will make your gun usable or not at distance are barrel,trigger, mount and optic (assuming you can do your part). Everything else comes behind in descending orders of priority down to fluff. I don't see an optic mount, and the oem trigger is going to suck some modest ass. I would skip the gimmicky sideways buis unless this is a three gun rig,and the surefire comp and put a trigger in it. I agree with this over and over again. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 6:57:11 AM EST
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what should I get instead of a brake? Just get an A2 flash hider. It's so cheap that if by chance you are unhappy you aren't out anything more than a few bucks. It's so easy to change that isn't an issue either. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 7:40:46 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just get an A2 flash hider. It's so cheap that if by chance you are unhappy you aren't out anything more than a few bucks. It's so easy to change that isn't an issue either. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So what should I get instead of a brake? Just get an A2 flash hider. It's so cheap that if by chance you are unhappy you aren't out anything more than a few bucks. It's so easy to change that isn't an issue either. What are your thoughts on an A1 for a 20" build? I was thinking since the majority of powder is burned in a longer barrel, the need for a flash hider would be minimal, and having the slots all the way around the circumference of the flash hider might make for a more symmetrical "crown". |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 7:56:16 AM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What are your thoughts on an A1 for a 20" build? I was thinking since the majority of powder is burned in a longer barrel, the need for a flash hider would be minimal, and having the slots all the way around the circumference of the flash hider might make for a more symmetrical "crown". Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So what should I get instead of a brake? Just get an A2 flash hider. It's so cheap that if by chance you are unhappy you aren't out anything more than a few bucks. It's so easy to change that isn't an issue either. What are your thoughts on an A1 for a 20" build? I was thinking since the majority of powder is burned in a longer barrel, the need for a flash hider would be minimal, and having the slots all the way around the circumference of the flash hider might make for a more symmetrical "crown". I think the 20" is a good length for a long range precision ar15. It's longer to give you more velocity, but no so long that it becomes an issue with mobility. For a bolt gun I'm going with a 26" barrel for full emphasis on maximizing velocity for extreme long range. As for the A1...I have no experience with them so I can't give an educated opinion on them. I believe the switch to A2 with no slots on bottom has to do with keeping muzzle blast from kicking up dust on the ground when in prone position. Once again I have no experience with the A1 so I could be way off so someone please correct me if I'm wrong. There are flash hiders better than the A2, but I recommend the A2 because of price so if the OP decided he needed a compensator(which I doubt he will especially for a precision gun)he wouldn't be out much of anything if he tossed the A2. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 10:26:32 AM EST
[#40]
Thanks for all your help and suggestions guys! I'll go ahead and start to buy some more parts soon.
One final question with regards to trigger selection: Should I go with the GA SSA-E or DMR trigger for adjustability? |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 2:02:13 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for all your help and suggestions guys! I'll go ahead and start to buy some more parts soon. One final question with regards to trigger selection: Should I go with the GA SSA-E or DMR trigger for adjustability? DMR. Made to be adjustable... I wouldn't ever touch anything with the SSA-E. |
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Posted: 7/13/2014 4:39:53 PM EST
[#42]
Ordered the PSA magpul MOE Lower parts kit.
Also, if I'm shooting bullets in the 70 gr range, would I benefit from a 1:8 twist more than a 1:7? I'm thinking of looking into 20" barrels now, any advice? |
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Posted: 7/14/2014 2:31:50 AM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ordered the PSA magpul MOE Lower parts kit. Also, if I'm shooting bullets in the 70 gr range, would I benefit from a 1:8 twist more than a 1:7? I'm thinking of looking into 20" barrels now, any advice? With all other things being equal I will take 8 twist above 7 or 9 if offered. Criterion 1:8 Wylde 20" Hybrid Contour $269 |
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Posted: 7/14/2014 1:42:03 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
hand loaded 69 grain smk at 2777 muzzle velocity...600 yards on my belly with a bipod these were the first 5 shots fired this day. http://i62.tinypic.com/wrnbqt.png I'm also 4th place in the spr division of the moa all day challenge here on arfcom. I'm far from the best shooter and this is my first year getting into long range, but I've learned a lot in a short time. I'm at the range 2 or 3 times a week sometimes working on long range, sometimes working on cqb drills, and sometimes just having fun with my kids shooting. There are a few trends on this site that I don't like to follow... Light weight barrels. I have a couple when they get hot the point of impact changes and groups open up. They also have smaller accuracy nodes. Heavy barrels do not have near as much problem in those areas. If you do not have good technique light barrels or light guns in general will have more felt recoil and muzzle rise. Good technique can fix this, but often people choose to skip learning good technique and put a compensator on it. So now you gave up your flash hiding and made a much louder weapon instead of just learning good technique. Longer barrels give higher velocity. In my case I'm using a very mild load with an 18" barrel. I didn't know a lot about long range shooting when I built it or I would have gotten a 20" barrel. Obviously you want a free float setup for a precision weapon, but as far as a carbine I prefer a pinned fsb they can handle a lot more abuse. On an 18" barrel you can run a mid length gas system and this is what I have, but a rifle length system certainly will not hurt. At the same time a rifle length gas system isn't absolutely necessary on an 18" barrel either. Based upon what I've seen on the moa all day challenge if I bought another barrel for a precision ar15 today it would be a lothar walther they perform very very well. Where is the thread for the "moa all day challenge here on arfcom". I can't seem to find it. |
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Posted: 7/15/2014 8:45:00 AM EST
[#45]
Quote History...
Where is the thread for the "moa all day challenge here on arfcom". I can't seem to find it. I think this is the latest (hint: use google to search, not the site search): MOA ALL Day |
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Posted: 7/15/2014 10:31:20 AM EST
[#46]
So right now my question is...
https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2911 vs http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17566&cat=250&page=3 |
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Posted: 7/15/2014 1:06:03 PM EST
[#47]
Alright now I'm a little pissed.
I ordered a buttstock from PSA (Standard mil-spec A2 stock). I placed the order on the 29'th of last month and yesterday it still hadn't shipped, so I called palmetto. The guy on the line said, "I'll give the sales reciept to the order department". I said thanks. Today, I get an email from PSA saying that, "We're sorry, but the product you ordered is currently out of stock [hehe]". It wasn't out of stock when I ordered it, and it doesn't say it's out of stock on their website, and yet it's out of stock. Whatever, I'll order a different stock from somewhere else. I'm thinking of the VLTOR ARM-A2 stock. |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 1:47:29 AM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Alright now I'm a little pissed. I ordered a buttstock from PSA (Standard mil-spec A2 stock). I placed the order on the 29'th of last month and yesterday it still hadn't shipped, so I called palmetto. The guy on the line said, "I'll give the sales reciept to the order department". I said thanks. Today, I get an email from PSA saying that, "We're sorry, but the product you ordered is currently out of stock [hehe]". It wasn't out of stock when I ordered it, and it doesn't say it's out of stock on their website, and yet it's out of stock. Whatever, I'll order a different stock from somewhere else. I'm thinking of the VLTOR ARM-A2 stock. MOE rifle stock |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 6:05:19 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So right now my question is... https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2911 vs http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17566&cat=250&page=3 IMAO: The quality reputation of both is good, but the WOA saves you some $$, however WOA delivery time is likely longer, YMMV. |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 7:56:25 AM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So right now my question is... https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2911 vs http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17566&cat=250&page=3 |
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