AR Sponsor
ARC Fire V2 (Page 10 of 13)
|
Originally Posted By EDL: Well, the V2 shipped today from Optics Planet, so it seems they have not received any sort of cease and desist as per that video I saw. Wish I could find that video again. I don't think any current FRT manufacturers are going to care about RB's cease and desist letters. They are going to keep making them until the lawsuits play out; it's really their only option. They either give up their source of income, or continue to profit and build a war chest to fight any lawsuits, and only stop when given a direct court order. Going after major sellers probably isn't going to work out for RB, either. They will likely tell them to get fucked and keep selling until and unless, again, the manufacturers are directly constrained by a court order. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
|
I hope so. Either way, mine is on the way, supposed to arrive Friday. I hope RB runs out of money, or the entire situation just rolls them up like a snowball, or better yet, a court tells the go get F'd because their patent claims are BS (at least some of them). I still can't help but feel there's some behind the scenes crap going on with the DOJ or ATF though. That was a weird deal the DOJ gave them. |
|
I installed mine in a Daniel defense Mk18 today. I’ve previously installed a V1 in a PSA lower with no problems. But the V2 will not drop the hammer in the enhanced position in my DD lower. Though the Daniel defense appears to be a low shelf lower, the shelf is more squared off on the front edge than my PSA lowers, with less room behind the middle of the selector. I don’t think there’s quite enough room for the arc fire to work. I’ll try it in a different lower tomorrow ETA Put it in a Spikes lower this morning. Trigger pull in the third position is extremely heavy. Like 20 pounds! Been reading that means I need to sand the radius at the tail of the trigger. But the manufacturers website says that voids warranty. Looks like I got a lemon. ETA: Test fired it this afternoon. 10.3” G$ upper. G$ recoil spring and H3 buffer. First 30-round mag of Hornady 75Gn HD SBR had one light primer strike. Next two mags were Hornady 556 Practise SBR 75Gn BTHP. No stoppages. Live fire seems to have improved the third position pull, slightly. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
|
Originally Posted By StevenH: I installed mine in a Daniel defense Mk18 today. I’ve previously installed a V1 in a PSA lower with no problems. But the V2 will not drop the hammer in the enhanced position in my DD lower. Though the Daniel defense appears to be a low shelf lower, the shelf is more squared off on the front edge than my PSA lowers, with less room behind the middle of the selector. I don’t think there’s quite enough room for the arc fire to work. I’ll try it in a different lower tomorrow ETA Put it in a spike lower this morning. Trigger pull in the third position is extremely heavy. Like 20 pounds! Been reading that means I need to sand the radius at the tail of the bolt. But the manufacturers website says that voids warranty. Looks like I got a lemon. I'm assuming you meant the radius on the trigger shoe. The bolt has nothing to do with your trigger pull. Not dropping the hammer in FRT and the fact that it's heavy in a different lower would strongly indicate the left side radius of the trigger shoe needs light material removal.  You likely only need light sanding and polishing if it's dropping in semi, in the area shown by the larger of the two red circles. If it's a G trigger, the smaller circle is another area that can be sanded/polished to eliminate heavy trigger pull. By voiding the 'warranty', they likely mean they aren't going to replace the trigger if you Billy Bob the job and make the trigger non-functional. Seems fair enough. It's just a reality when it comes to FRTs that some will need fitting. Doubtful it's anything wrong with the V2 itself. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Aimpoint Comp M3 w/ Lens Covers
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Aimpoint Comp M3 w/ Lens Covers
|
Originally Posted By krdt: I'm assuming you meant the radius on the trigger shoe. The bolt has nothing to do with your trigger pull. Not dropping the hammer in FRT and the fact that it's heavy in a different lower would strongly indicate the left side radius of the trigger shoe needs light material removal. https://i.imgur.com/RoaOQd4.jpeg You likely only need light sanding and polishing if it's dropping in semi, in the area shown by the larger of the two red circles. If it's a G trigger, the smaller circle is another area that can be sanded/polished to eliminate heavy trigger pull. By voiding the 'warranty', they likely mean they aren't going to replace the trigger if you Billy Bob the job and make the trigger non-functional. Seems fair enough. It's just a reality when it comes to FRTs that some will need fitting. Doubtful it's anything wrong with the V2 itself. Originally Posted By krdt: Originally Posted By StevenH: I installed mine in a Daniel defense Mk18 today. I’ve previously installed a V1 in a PSA lower with no problems. But the V2 will not drop the hammer in the enhanced position in my DD lower. Though the Daniel defense appears to be a low shelf lower, the shelf is more squared off on the front edge than my PSA lowers, with less room behind the middle of the selector. I don’t think there’s quite enough room for the arc fire to work. I’ll try it in a different lower tomorrow ETA Put it in a spike lower this morning. Trigger pull in the third position is extremely heavy. Like 20 pounds! Been reading that means I need to sand the radius at the tail of the bolt. But the manufacturers website says that voids warranty. Looks like I got a lemon. I'm assuming you meant the radius on the trigger shoe. The bolt has nothing to do with your trigger pull. Not dropping the hammer in FRT and the fact that it's heavy in a different lower would strongly indicate the left side radius of the trigger shoe needs light material removal. https://i.imgur.com/RoaOQd4.jpeg You likely only need light sanding and polishing if it's dropping in semi, in the area shown by the larger of the two red circles. If it's a G trigger, the smaller circle is another area that can be sanded/polished to eliminate heavy trigger pull. By voiding the 'warranty', they likely mean they aren't going to replace the trigger if you Billy Bob the job and make the trigger non-functional. Seems fair enough. It's just a reality when it comes to FRTs that some will need fitting. Doubtful it's anything wrong with the V2 itself. Yeah, that ETA Test fired it this afternoon. 10.3” G$ upper. G$ recoil spring and H3 buffer. First 30-round mag of Hornady 75Gn HD SBR had one light primer strike. Next two mags were Hornady 556 Practise SBR 75Gn BTHP. No stoppages. Live fire seems to have improved the third position pull, slightly. Still much heavier than my V1. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
|
Received my v2 non-ambi the other day, but not off work until today, so will get it installed in my SBR lower later today. Need to run a few sub loads through the 300 upper and get my AGB dialed, then will let her eat in fast mode to see how it does (assuming it passes dry function test). My SBR lower was built from a 17 D&M lower I bought quite a few years ago. I've seen the threads on that brand (out of business now, of course), but I have a few of their lowers (was the only ones available locally at the time) and I've had no issues with them. Maybe I got the good ones before QC went to crap. |
|
I was excited to finally install the V2 into my MPX with the SIG mil-spec trigger and trigger bridge. My V2 was ordered the day they were released and I also ordered the slip trip kit. I swapped in the ASD trigger that came with the V2 and the slip trip was unlabeled so I don’t know which rev it is. The function check was really strange as the entire FCG bound up in semi if I held the trigger back and there was enough drag on the bolt to prevent it from going into battery. Everything locks up and I have to separate upper from lower to find hammer forward and trigger still stuck in rear position. Function check MPX, ARC V2 90-180, Slip Trip rev? 1. On safe, no fire. Pass. 2. On semi, fires. Pass. 3. On semi, fire, hold trigger back and cycle bolt, no reset, dead trigger, heavy bolt drag and dead trigger. Fail. 4. On ARC, fires. Pass. 5. On ARC, fire, hold trigger back and cycle bolt, some bolt drag but fires when bolt closes. Pass. I’ve sent a message to ASD Support, but thought I’d reach out here and see if anyone had ideas. I’ve got multiple cassette-style FRTs and Arizona Regulators that all installed and worked the first try. I was expecting (hoping?) the same for the ARC Fire. But sadly, no. |
|
Got my v2 non ambi from combat armory and installed it today. Anderson lower with A2 stock and surplus 20” barrel with A2 upper. It wasn’t working for shit with the Anderson disconnector and hammer. Would release the hammer when I released the trigger on a semi auto function check. After re-installing it several times I swapped in a bushmaster hammer and disconnector and it function checks 100% now. |
|
Originally Posted By crosseyeshooter: I was excited to finally install the V2 into my MPX with the SIG mil-spec trigger and trigger bridge. My V2 was ordered the day they were released and I also ordered the slip trip kit. I swapped in the ASD trigger that came with the V2 and the slip trip was unlabeled so I don’t know which rev it is. The function check was really strange as the entire FCG bound up in semi if I held the trigger back and there was enough drag on the bolt to prevent it from going into battery. Everything locks up and I have to separate upper from lower to find hammer forward and trigger still stuck in rear position. Function check MPX, ARC V2 90-180, Slip Trip rev? 1. On safe, no fire. Pass. 2. On semi, fires. Pass. 3. On semi, fire, hold trigger back and cycle bolt, no reset, dead trigger, heavy bolt drag and dead trigger. Fail. 4. On ARC, fires. Pass. 5. On ARC, fire, hold trigger back and cycle bolt, some bolt drag but fires when bolt closes. Pass. I’ve sent a message to ASD Support, but thought I’d reach out here and see if anyone had ideas. I’ve got multiple cassette-style FRTs and Arizona Regulators that all installed and worked the first try. I was expecting (hoping?) the same for the ARC Fire. But sadly, no. I don’t have a sig but some platforms aren’t solved yet. Case in point - I have to use RB/Partisan in my Boombox and Honey Badger SD. The geometry isn’t there. I’m super disappointed I can’t run a G$ frt in those two. But at least they FRT. |
Joined:
Mar 2026
Posts:
114
EE: 0% (0)
FL, USA
|
I went to Shoot Shack today for the first time in years. I have my own small range at home, but only shoot suppressed as to not alert people around me to my toys (OPSEC). With me i had 2 arc fires in PSA, and Spikes lowers respectively. I was respectful of my pertner and asked their permission to buy one the other week. When asked why i was taking two rifles to the range i just ssid "2 is 1 and 1 is none " and walked out the door. It is OK. I had already explained the concept to our son so he knew i was not lying to his coparent when i said this. 556 worked great with just an H3 buffer. 10.5" barrel with a Spikes Barking Spider. 300 aac 123gr Magtech was great with an H1 buffer. 9.5" barrel with a Spikes Barking Spider. Now I'm chilling in the pool with a Modelo. Smiling at the boom boom boom voom boom |
|
Just a heads up, ASD and some other vendors like PolymerPew have V2’s 20% off (code USA250 for ASD), which makes a V2 non-ambi model only $160….ambi models will be $200. So if you are on the fence about getting one…do it, you won’t regret it! |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
Member
Joined:
Jun 2022
Posts:
483
EE: 100% (89)
SC, USA
|
We have V2s in stock at $199.99 (Ok $200 : ) ) If you can get your cart over $300 we will ship it in a free M2 ammo can as well. https://inoculum-group.com/product/as-designs-arc-fire-trigger-v2-ambi-kit/ |
|
Originally Posted By TZLVredmist: We have V2s in stock at $199.99 (Ok $200 : ) ) If you can get your cart over $300 we will ship it in a free M2 ammo can as well. https://inoculum-group.com/product/as-designs-arc-fire-trigger-v2-ambi-kit/ I actually was going to buy from you but you didn’t have any of the non-ambi models (cheaper). I really don’t like the ambi selector on the right side, plus I learned to shoot AR’s quite well from either side with a standard selector just like God and Eugene Stoner intended, it isn’t hard, so I just flat out don’t need it! If I was left handed I might think differently I admit. But being cheaper and simpler means those are the V2’s I prefer. I wonder what ASD is seeing for demand on ambi vs non-ambi versions… |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
|
Originally Posted By tac556: I actually was going to buy from you but you didn’t have any of the non-ambi models (cheaper). I really don’t like the ambi selector on the right side, plus I learned to shoot AR’s quite well from either side with a standard selector just like God and Eugene Stoner intended, it isn’t hard, so I just flat out don’t need it! If I was left handed I might think differently I admit. But being cheaper and simpler means those are the V2’s I prefer. I wonder what ASD is seeing for demand on ambi vs non-ambi versions… Originally Posted By tac556: Originally Posted By TZLVredmist: We have V2s in stock at $199.99 (Ok $200 : ) ) If you can get your cart over $300 we will ship it in a free M2 ammo can as well. https://inoculum-group.com/product/as-designs-arc-fire-trigger-v2-ambi-kit/ I actually was going to buy from you but you didn’t have any of the non-ambi models (cheaper). I really don’t like the ambi selector on the right side, plus I learned to shoot AR’s quite well from either side with a standard selector just like God and Eugene Stoner intended, it isn’t hard, so I just flat out don’t need it! If I was left handed I might think differently I admit. But being cheaper and simpler means those are the V2’s I prefer. I wonder what ASD is seeing for demand on ambi vs non-ambi versions… One thing I don’t like about the non ambi is it’s not marked with a notch or line |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
|
Originally Posted By tac556: I actually was going to buy from you but you didn’t have any of the non-ambi models (cheaper). I really don’t like the ambi selector on the right side, plus I learned to shoot AR’s quite well from either side with a standard selector just like God and Eugene Stoner intended, it isn’t hard, so I just flat out don’t need it! If I was left handed I might think differently I admit. But being cheaper and simpler means those are the V2’s I prefer. I wonder what ASD is seeing for demand on ambi vs non-ambi versions… I think the general trend for quite a few years has been towards ambi (and short throw) selectors, I would be really surprised if ambi didn’t far outstrip single-side. I’m sort of agnostic but I like ambi a little better. It’s faster for smaller hands.  Either works. Call me crazy but I care about as much about what Stoner intended regarding the safety selector switch as I do about what Les Paul intended when he designed the pickup selector switch on the Les Paul… I think he had different plans originally anyway: “Eugene Stoner’s very first safety selector design: Vertical (pointing up) was Safe, pushing forward was Semi-Auto, and flipping backward was Full-Auto.” Reconfig was at mil request, troops kept disengaging them while crawling. |
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
Joined:
Oct 2013
Posts:
41726
EE: 100% (120)
KY, USA
|
Originally Posted By StevenH: One thing I don’t like about the non ambi is it’s not marked with a notch or line I prefer that, it's clone correct. The screw on the other side isn't but at least one side looks right. |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
Friendly Neighborhood Extremist
Joined:
Sep 2023
Posts:
656
EE: 100% (2)
KS, USA
|
AS Designs dumped several new accessories for the V2 yesterday. Sold my MCX, so I'm not interested in the stuff for the .277/.308 offerings, but the longer lever is also being marketed for the MR556. My V2 worked in my HK last time I was at the range, but I'm considering picking one up just in case the problems come back, or to have a spare lever. New Lever Here |
DEUS VULT
|
Here’s the fix! Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Ok Now I need some help on a G$ issue. I bought my first Ambi V2 0,45,90 with the small lever on right side. M I cut a SDE G$ perfectly. The safe function is perfect, the 90 degree FRT mode is perfect. But the 45 deg semi auto - the trigger pull feels like it's 20lbs. My work around was to not fully tighten the T10 bolt and loctite it over night. It's got play in it but the trigger pull now is about 8 lbs, but not correct. Is this version not compatible with Geissele? @ASDesigns eta: I've cut 11 g$ and they are all running flawlessly with V1 Ambi AF FRTs. |
|
Originally Posted By HKH: Ok Now I need some help on a G$ issue. I bought my first Ambi V2 0,45,90 with the small lever on right side. I cut a SDE G$ perfectly. The safe function is perfect, the 90 degree FRT mode is perfect. But the 45 deg semi auto - the trigger pull feels like it’s 20lbs. My work around was to not fully tighten the T10 bolt and loctite it over night. It’s got play in it but the trigger pull now is about 8 lbs, but not correct. Is this version not compatible with Geissele? @ASDesigns eta: I’ve cut 11 g$ and they are all running flawlessly with V1 Ambi AF FRTs. So I just cut a ssa-e x and a Sd-e that are working perfectly. From the tuning I have done, a very heavy pull often would set it off I’m kind of confused at to how tightening the cross bolts would affect the trigger pull, except for situations where I though the splines of the two sides were mated well but they were freewheeling. |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10800
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
I hope this means a more general AR10 lever is coming. HK and Sig seems like an odd place to start, you'd think they would start with the vastly more common DPMS pattern AR10. I'm muddling along with my Grey Market large frame super safety, but it's just not the same. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
|
Originally Posted By BKenton: So I just cut a ssa-e x and a Sd-e that are working perfectly. From the tuning I have done, a very heavy pull often would set it off I’m kind of confused at to how tightening the cross bolts would affect the trigger pull, except for situations where I though the splines of the two sides were mated well but they were freewheeling. Expound please- a very heavy pull on safe? Or what - cause I just double white knuckled it with two hands and gave myself a hernia and it didn’t fire on safeIt’s my gun now but I painted it for my son who’s 10. Think I painted the wrong lower  
|
Member
Joined:
Jun 2025
Posts:
38
EE: 0% (0)
NC, USA
|
Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I hope this means a more general AR10 lever is coming. HK and Sig seems like an odd place to start, you'd think they would start with the vastly more common DPMS pattern AR10. I'm muddling along with my Grey Market large frame super safety, but it's just not the same. The problem is "AR10". Which AR10? DPMS pattern? Okay, who specifically follows that pattern perfectly? Now what about the 5 other patterns that companies randomly made and call AR10? Then let's mix in high shelf AR10 lowers that need a different lever than low shelf ones. What about GEN-12 since it's basically an AR10? You can see why our "308 Lever" quickly became focused down to platforms we know are consistent and doable  And that's before we cross the bridge of people who refuse to read product descriptions or even product names, so they definitely aren't reading the fine print about compatibility (if it were just DPMS or something) Literally after launching the "Transfer Lever for HK MR and Sig Spear 277/308" we get emails from people saying they ordered it for *insert a gun that isn't those things at all* and want to know if it's compatible. I hope this explains how much of a powder keg an "AR10 Lever" is, lmao.The MR/Spear lever was something we needed and instead of trying to make one lever fit everything ever, we just got it done and split the other platforms into a different lever. We're working on AR10, just takes a lot more testing. |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10802
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By ASDesigns: The problem is "AR10". Which AR10? DPMS pattern? Okay, who specifically follows that pattern perfectly? Now what about the 5 other patterns that companies randomly made and call AR10? Then let's mix in high shelf AR10 lowers that need a different lever than low shelf ones. What about GEN-12 since it's basically an AR10? You can see why our "308 Lever" quickly became focused down to platforms we know are consistent and doable And that's before we cross the bridge of people who refuse to read product descriptions or even product names, so they definitely aren't reading the fine print about compatibility (if it were just DPMS or something) Literally after launching the "Transfer Lever for HK MR and Sig Spear 277/308" we get emails from people saying they ordered it for *insert a gun that isn't those things at all* and want to know if it's compatible. I hope this explains how much of a powder keg an "AR10 Lever" is, lmao.The MR/Spear lever was something we needed and instead of trying to make one lever fit everything ever, we just got it done and split the other platforms into a different lever. We're working on AR10, just takes a lot more testing. Originally Posted By ASDesigns: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I hope this means a more general AR10 lever is coming. HK and Sig seems like an odd place to start, you'd think they would start with the vastly more common DPMS pattern AR10. I'm muddling along with my Grey Market large frame super safety, but it's just not the same. The problem is "AR10". Which AR10? DPMS pattern? Okay, who specifically follows that pattern perfectly? Now what about the 5 other patterns that companies randomly made and call AR10? Then let's mix in high shelf AR10 lowers that need a different lever than low shelf ones. What about GEN-12 since it's basically an AR10? You can see why our "308 Lever" quickly became focused down to platforms we know are consistent and doable And that's before we cross the bridge of people who refuse to read product descriptions or even product names, so they definitely aren't reading the fine print about compatibility (if it were just DPMS or something) Literally after launching the "Transfer Lever for HK MR and Sig Spear 277/308" we get emails from people saying they ordered it for *insert a gun that isn't those things at all* and want to know if it's compatible. I hope this explains how much of a powder keg an "AR10 Lever" is, lmao.The MR/Spear lever was something we needed and instead of trying to make one lever fit everything ever, we just got it done and split the other platforms into a different lever. We're working on AR10, just takes a lot more testing. That's fair. Thanks. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10803
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: The DPMS G2 pattern "small frame" 308 works perfectly with a standard arc-fire. Just FYI I might have to track one of those down. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: The DPMS G2 pattern "small frame" 308 works perfectly with a standard arc-fire. Just FYI Where would you get one of these? Since Aero shit the bed I wonder what I can get for my clear anodized M5 receiver set (not cerakoted) and clear ano Aero handguard. That shit is made of unobtanium. 
|
|
Originally Posted By HKH: Where would you get one of these? Since Aero shit the bed I wonder what I can get for my clear anodized M5 receiver set (not cerakoted) and clear ano Aero handguard. That shit is made of unobtanium. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9777-3792602.jpg I can't imagine shooting a 308 on Happy with that stock. |
Tom Sawyer.
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
|
wish i could pick up a Recon model Gen 2 now. was going to get one when i bought their target model w/ the 24in stainless bbl. the target model imo is every bit as good as my Armalite 10-T. both are tack drivers. wondering if PSA has a Recon model just like the original Gen 2? |
|
Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: oof.gif I can't imagine shooting a 308 on Happy with that stock. It’s 8.6 blackout It’s my trademarked Boot(leg) Box  I’ve got a 16” 7.62 upper and I swap out to the CTR when I shoot that. But I don’t shoot this anymore due to this 5lb 8oz beauty 
|
|
Originally Posted By HKH: It's 8.6 blackout It's my trademarked Boot(leg) Box I've got a 16" 7.62 upper and I swap out to the CTR when I shoot that. But I don't shoot this anymore due to this 5lb 8oz beauty https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_8929-3693363.jpg 
|
Tom Sawyer.
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
|
Originally Posted By HKH: Ok Now I need some help on a G$ issue. I bought my first Ambi V2 0,45,90 with the small lever on right side. I cut a SDE G$ perfectly. The safe function is perfect, the 90 degree FRT mode is perfect. But the 45 deg semi auto - the trigger pull feels like it’s 20lbs. My work around was to not fully tighten the T10 bolt and loctite it over night. It’s got play in it but the trigger pull now is about 8 lbs, but not correct. Is this version not compatible with Geissele? @ASDesigns eta: I’ve cut 11 g$ and they are all running flawlessly with V1 Ambi AF FRTs. When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV |
|
Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Originally Posted By jwlaxton: Originally Posted By HKH: Ok Now I need some help on a G$ issue. I bought my first Ambi V2 0,45,90 with the small lever on right side. I cut a SDE G$ perfectly. The safe function is perfect, the 90 degree FRT mode is perfect. But the 45 deg semi auto - the trigger pull feels like it’s 20lbs. My work around was to not fully tighten the T10 bolt and loctite it over night. It’s got play in it but the trigger pull now is about 8 lbs, but not correct. Is this version not compatible with Geissele? @ASDesigns eta: I’ve cut 11 g$ and they are all running flawlessly with V1 Ambi AF FRTs. When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV I’ve also experienced improvement in trigger pull after removing then reinstalling the selector screw. |
Life member of CRPA. FPC contributor.
|
Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Wow Thank you I’ll try that when I get home. The loose bolt (but loctited) now pulls at about 5 lbs (2nd stage) but still not SDE quality. |
|
Originally Posted By HKH: Where would you get one of these? Since Aero shit the bed I wonder what I can get for my clear anodized M5 receiver set (not cerakoted) and clear ano Aero handguard. That shit is made of unobtanium. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9777-3792602.jpg The used market. Gunbroker, armslist, gun stores, etc... They are still out there. When you search, make sure you search both G2 and GII (g with two i's), as they can get listed both ways There are a few on gunbroker right now. I have the Bull barrel model I bought back when they were still in production. It is my pseudo DMR rifle. Very accurate. More accurate than it should be for the price point. I love it. Some months ago, I picked up a new old stock SASS off gunbroker for a very reasonable price. It is the one I put the arc fire in. It is my pseudo tactical battle style rifle (maybe technically carbine? it is a 18in barrel). It is a blast to shoot and is the one gun I have that is 100% reliable with a arc-fire and a cut G$ trigger. My old bushmaster 223 is about 99% reliable. Everything else either will not run, or runs very crappy. |
|
Holy cow mang- this worked I never would have thought of this to fix it. It needs to be added to E Littlefields thread in FRTs. You da man 👊 Originally Posted By HKH: Wow Thank you I’ll try that when I get home. The loose bolt (but loctited) now pulls at about 5 lbs (2nd stage) but still not SDE quality. Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Wow Thank you I’ll try that when I get home. The loose bolt (but loctited) now pulls at about 5 lbs (2nd stage) but still not SDE quality. |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10820
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By HKH: Holy cow mang- this worked I never would have thought of this to fix it. It needs to be added to E Littlefields thread in FRTs. You da man 👊 Originally Posted By HKH: Holy cow mang- this worked I never would have thought of this to fix it. It needs to be added to E Littlefields thread in FRTs. You da man 👊 Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Wow Thank you I’ll try that when I get home. The loose bolt (but loctited) now pulls at about 5 lbs (2nd stage) but still not SDE quality. HKH I'll get on it today. All of my ARC-Fires (seven ish?) worked out of the box, so I've been struggling to write a troubleshooting guide for them. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10823
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I'll send you a couple of my rifles if you want to experience troubleshooting Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: HKH I'll get on it today. All of my ARC-Fires (seven ish?) worked out of the box, so I've been struggling to write a troubleshooting guide for them. I'll send you a couple of my rifles if you want to experience troubleshooting 
|
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
Joined:
Oct 2013
Posts:
41731
EE: 100% (120)
KY, USA
So one of my 2 ARC-Fires wouldn't allow the BCG to be charged if the muzzle of the rifle was pointed down. Did a little searching and found a guy who experienced the same and made his own lever blocker. He put the file out there so you can download and print yourself. A buddy printed a few for me and it fixed my issue! I like that it slips over the FCG vs having to install under the trigger.
|
ARC Fire V2 (Page 10 of 13)
AR Sponsor