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Posted: 9/4/2026 8:46:53 PM EDT
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Caught an ad for a CMC Triggers Wedgelock Mlok handguard and snagged one for $60 because at that price for a wedge lock handguard I’ll be a Guinea pig. Thing is, I have no clue what to expect because nobody has any reviews out for them. Anyone have any experience? Got it from here If tracking is accurate, I’ll have it by Tuesday. |
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It's the same thing as all the other wedgelocks out there. Installation is kind of a pain with accessing the wedge screw, but other than that they are GTG. Also, be careful with the small set screws on the side. I've stripped a hole trying to get the threads started before. ETA: That's a great price for a premium handguard. I just didn't care for the big logo. |
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: It's the same thing as all the other wedgelocks out there. Installation is kind of a pain with accessing the wedge screw, but other than that they are GTG. Also, be careful with the small set screws on the side. I've stripped a hole trying to get the threads started before. ETA: That's a great price for a premium handguard. I just didn't care for the big logo. Oh yeah, I hate the logo on both sides. It’s going to get rattle canned so hopefully it won’t be as noticeable. |
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Just got my example in and it's not as nice or refined as any other Wedgelock handguard I've used, to include: Hodge, Mega, Zev, Icon, SOLGW, FNH. The barrel nut is appears to be steel phosphated (it's black and feels like phosphated finish), which is unlike any other I've handled. The anodizing is not anywhere near as nice as all of the above - it's a flat finish. I don't care for the logo, but for the price this is probably the best rail for under $125-$150. |
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Originally Posted By icura: Just got my example in and it's not as nice or refined as any other Wedgelock handguard I've used, to include: Hodge, Mega, Zev, Icon, SOLGW, FNH. The barrel nut is appears to be steel phosphated (it's black and feels like phosphated finish), which is unlike any other I've handled. The anodizing is not anywhere near as nice as all of the above - it's a flat finish. I don't care for the logo, but for the price this is probably the best rail for under $125-$150. Two questions: 1) Is everything in spec? 2) Does it have an index pin and did you have to drill your upper to get it to fit? |
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Originally Posted By Andi-in-BKK: Two questions: 1) Is everything in spec? 2) Does it have an index pin and did you have to drill your upper to get it to fit? I installed it yesterday and noticed a few more things that are different from every other Wedgelock rail: 1. The little set screws that screw in on both sides of the rails are smaller and a different size...not crazy about that. 2. The actual wedge screw head is a larger size torx than the others...this is actually a welcome change for me. *It does have the index pin, but I did not use it for my build. *The barrel nut does appear to be the same size and spec...just a different finish from all the others. I was planning on swapping an existing SOLGW rail, but then noticed those differences so I just swapped the entire rail and all hardware so I was comparing the differences as I went along with the uninstall of the M76 and install of the CMC. Pic before install: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By icura: I installed it yesterday and noticed a few more things that are different from every other Wedgelock rail: 1. The little set screws that screw in on both sides of the rails are smaller and a different size...not crazy about that. 2. The actual wedge screw head is a larger size torx than the others...this is actually a welcome change for me. *It does have the index pin, but I did not use it for my build. *The barrel nut does appear to be the same size and spec...just a different finish from all the others. I was planning on swapping an existing SOLGW rail, but then noticed those differences so I just swapped the entire rail and all hardware so I was comparing the differences as I went along with the uninstall of the M76 and install of the CMC. Pic before install: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/434739/1000306012_jpg-3823333.JPG Thanks! That all sounds good to me. I’ll update when mine comes in as well. |
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Please note that alignment pin may cause a headache down the road. There was one report were an owner tried to remove the wedgelock handguard and it wouldn't separate from the upper after removing the screws. I had one Expo Arms upper and wedgelock rail where the alignment pin was not in-line. The hole on the upper was off. It was supper cheap from PA. Didn't care about the pin. |
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Originally Posted By AR18: Please note that alignment pin may cause a headache down the road. There was one report were an owner tried to remove the wedgelock handguard and it wouldn't separate from the upper after removing the screws. I had one Expo Arms upper and wedgelock rail where the alignment pin was not in-line. The hole on the upper was off. It was supper cheap from PA. Didn't care about the pin. It's funny you mention this because I had a similar issue with an Expo Arms upper and Zev Wedgelock rail i bought off the EE and disassembled...ended up using big piece of delrin I had lying around to hammer the handguard off the upper. If I use the index pin on builds, I install the pin into the rail as far as it will go, then test fit with upper to ensure there is a nice fit before torquing everything. |
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Originally Posted By AR18: Please note that alignment pin may cause a headache down the road. There was one report were an owner tried to remove the wedgelock handguard and it wouldn't separate from the upper after removing the screws. I had one Expo Arms upper and wedgelock rail where the alignment pin was not in-line. The hole on the upper was off. It was supper cheap from PA. Didn't care about the pin. Is it typically a roll pin or solid? |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: Pin has been solid in the Hodge rails I’ve used. I’ve matched them up to v seven uppers and it’s never been an issue, install or removal. If this one is a roll pin I’ll see if I can get a solid one to swap in. That seems like a better option if it’s just to keep the rail from rotating. |
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Originally Posted By Andi-in-BKK: Is it typically a roll pin or solid? Solid. I think the problem is that if the alignment pin on the wedgelock rails is held to a very tight tolerance for fitment. The best example is the wood dowels on pre-fab cabinet build. You can some that will drop out of the hole or get that one hole and pin that has a super tight fit. I can see why some shops had experienced the hard removal of the rails. I have a wedgelock rail setup on my SRU bullpup chassis. The first time I wanted to change the setup after installation. It was a bitch to remove the rail off the barrel nut. |
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Originally Posted By AR18: Solid. I think the problem is that if the alignment pin on the wedgelock rails is held to a very tight tolerance for fitment. The best example is the wood dowels on pre-fab cabinet build. You can some that will drop out of the hole or get that one hole and pin that has a super tight fit. I can see why some shops had experienced the hard removal of the rails. I have a wedgelock rail setup on my SRU bullpup chassis. The first time I wanted to change the setup after installation. It was a bitch to remove the rail off the barrel nut. One thing I can say, the fit of the rail to the barrel nut on mine is very tight. I’m used to Geissele rails where you can use a finger or two to slide the barrel nut out of the rail as it ships. I had to tap this one out with a hammer. I’ll definitely be making sure all surfaces of the barrel nut and wedge lock assembly get a coat of grease as I assemble. I can imagine seizing could be an issue at some point in the future otherwise. |
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I've been using the SOLGW M76 version for a while. I like that this CMC version has 7-sided M-Lok. The biggest issue that I've experienced is that the rail is simultaneously skinny in outer diameter but also fairly robust in wall thickness. This provides great ergonomics and rigidity but limits the way you can configure attachments due to gas block clearance. Before you actually fully assemble, I recommend doing a "mock-up" assembly to figure out if you need particular parts to make your desired configuration work. For example, I like the Magpul Type 2 rail panels. These fit without issue on the 9:00 and 3:00 sides, but I use a Rail Scales strip on the bottom so that the hardware doesn't interfere with the gas block. Not all gas blocks are compatible. You may need to use shorter M-Lok screws as well (Magpul sells these). Overall I'm pretty happy with the Wedge Lock. I would prefer the L89 type but not enough for the switch to be worth the cost. Originally Posted By wildearp: Prices seem great, but those look bendy. I mostly have Midwest Industries and YHM things. Viagra stiff things. |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Prices seem great, but those look bendy. I mostly have Midwest Industries and YHM things. Viagra stiff things.  https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/Larue_Stealth_Armalite_lower_JPG-2820815.jpg I’ve generally gone with Geissele or Daniel Defense rails in the past and really dig the MK8 on my SPRish currently. This CMC rail is kind of an experiment to get a 10.3” pistol off the ground and may get swapped for a MK4 at some point in the future if I don’t like it for whatever reason. |
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Originally Posted By DDS87: I've been using the SOLGW M76 version for a while. I like that this CMC version has 7-sided M-Lok. The biggest issue that I've experienced is that the rail is simultaneously skinny in outer diameter but also fairly robust in wall thickness. This provides great ergonomics and rigidity but limits the way you can configure attachments due to gas block clearance. Before you actually fully assemble, I recommend doing a "mock-up" assembly to figure out if you need particular parts to make your desired configuration work. For example, I like the Magpul Type 2 rail panels. These fit without issue on the 9:00 and 3:00 sides, but I use a Rail Scales strip on the bottom so that the hardware doesn't interfere with the gas block. Not all gas blocks are compatible. You may need to use shorter M-Lok screws as well (Magpul sells these). Overall I'm pretty happy with the Wedge Lock. I would prefer the L89 type but not enough for the switch to be worth the cost. They're not bendy relative to any other super slim hand guard, per independent testing I've seen. Their rigidity for size/weight is one of their advantages. Most MI and YHM are simply not in the same league. The newest MI rails might be approaching the rigidity, but the mounting system is still inferior. Yeah I noticed ID is a little tight. My main concern is getting enough room to mount my Modlite out front. |
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Originally Posted By JHans7663: These don’t have any sort of anti rotation tabs do they? Just the pin? I would have to look at mine again. The two small screws would act as anti rotation tabs with contacting the small groove on the barrel nut. So, far the rail has not rotated without the alignment pin installed. |
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Mine came in today. I'm glad I got the sale price. Finish is very dry and chalky, I'm sure some oil will clean it up. Barrel nut slid out of the rail on its own very loose. The giant logos are obnoxious and im glad theyre not laser engraved white or id have to blacken them. Itll do just fine for the price. |
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Originally Posted By JHans7663: These don’t have any sort of anti rotation tabs do they? Just the pin? In my experience with the Wedgelock design, they don't even really need the anti rotation tabs. The force that the wedge puts on the barrel nut has held every handguard I've installed without any perceptible rotation...but I'm also not jumping out of helicopters and neither have any of the end-users on the uppers I've put together. |
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Originally Posted By TheGunslinger: Mine came in today. I'm glad I got the sale price. Finish is very dry and chalky, I'm sure some oil will clean it up. Barrel nut slid out of the rail on its own very loose. The giant logos are obnoxious and im glad theyre not laser engraved white or id have to blacken them. Itll do just fine for the price. Pretty much my experience with the exception of the barrel nut being loose. I had to drive mine out with a wooden dowel and hammer. I’m going to paint the entire thing in Krylon so the giant logos aren’t as big of an issue, but they definitely look rough. |
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