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Posted: 1/25/2018 1:29:33 PM EDT
I'm having a hard time finding a castle nut wrench that will work for pistol extension tubes along with accommodate a torque wrench.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 2:39:32 PM EDT
[#1]
I generally use a rubber strap wrench on those tubes that do not utilize an end plate and castle nut.
There are enough companies producing pistol tubes that use end plates and castle nuts.

Torquing is not rocket science, a castle nut gets 40lbs ft of torque.
If you must torque a pistol tube that does not use a castle nut, try this adapter.

Strap wrench, handle less, torque adapter
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 2:54:15 PM EDT
[#2]
I'm referring to a wrench that is open versus closed. Most armorer wrenches have either a closed or 3/4 closed castle nut adapter. With the pistol tubes, it would be impossible to slide the wrench adapter through. So I'm looking for a wrench that is like half open and allows for me to hook up my torque bar to spec the nut  down.
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 4:00:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm referring to a wrench that is open versus closed. Most armorer wrenches have either a closed or 3/4 closed castle nut adapter. With the pistol tubes, it would be impossible to slide the wrench adapter through. So I'm looking for a wrench that is like half open and allows for me to hook up my torque bar to spec the nut  down.
View Quote
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-armorer-s-tool-prod54530.aspx

That is what I use. Despite it being from Tapco, it seems to be good quality. Either way, I bought mine from Brownells, so it's covered by their lifetime guarantee as well.

It has both the "3 slot" style and the open, spanner wrench style. Both should work as the "3 slot" style on that wrench doesn't require you to slide it over the tube as with some designs. The spanner wrench also works great on the DD RIS II barrel nut, so that's a plus. Personally never used a torque wrench on the castle nut - I just crank it down and call it even.
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 4:08:54 PM EDT
[#4]
I don't torque the castle nut on any rifle or pistol, I put a dab of blue locktight and firmly tighten them down, I have several pistols that don't even have a castle nut and do them the same way with my strap wrench, have never had one come loose and one of my pistols has over 5000 rounds through it.
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 5:01:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm referring to a wrench that is open versus closed. Most armorer wrenches have either a closed or 3/4 closed castle nut adapter. With the pistol tubes, it would be impossible to slide the wrench adapter through. So I'm looking for a wrench that is like half open and allows for me to hook up my torque bar to spec the nut  down.
View Quote
Google "ar15 castle nut wrench" if you look in "images" there are about fifty choices available.

I have two wrenches and they both work well. One has a quarter circle arc with a pin, and the other is a half-round that has three teeth.
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 6:22:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Topic Moved
Link Posted: 2/4/2018 6:38:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I don't torque the castle nut on any rifle or pistol, I put a dab of blue locktight and firmly tighten them down, I have several pistols that don't even have a castle nut and do them the same way with my strap wrench, have never had one come loose and one of my pistols has over 5000 rounds through it.
View Quote
That is actually a good idea for me to do to my 10.5" pistol... as the SB-PDW brace doesn't allow the use of a receiver end plate that would allow me to stake the castle nut in place. I've built 15+ AR's and have never, ever had a castle nut come loose after a quick & clean strike into the end plate with a punch. This is not possible with the SB-PDW. I've torqued it down to spec but I'm thinking a couple dabs of Purple or Blue Loc-Tite on the threads and then re-torque down the castle nut should be just as solid as a good castle nut/end plate stake job...
Link Posted: 2/5/2018 8:05:17 PM EDT
[#8]
If it has a castle nut the Tapco wrench is the way to go. I have not used an Armies wrench to tighten a castle nut since using the Tapco wrench. I know it's Tapco but it works well for its purpose.
Link Posted: 2/5/2018 9:15:46 PM EDT
[#9]
I just got a SB PDW from PSA and the castle nut was loose. A drop or two of blue loc-tite torqued to German specs... Goodentight. There were no notches in the end plate to stake the nut like normal.
Link Posted: 2/10/2018 2:25:19 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I just got a SB PDW from PSA and the castle nut was loose. A drop or two of blue loc-tite torqued to German specs... Goodentight. There were no notches in the end plate to stake the nut like normal.
View Quote
That's exactly what I did. Take a fine point paint or white out pen and put a small witness mark/line on it for reassurance. You'll easily be able to tell if the castle nut ever rotates. It's nice having it there for piece of mind and only takes 8 seconds of work. I do the same on my BUIS' and Battle Arms Development selector switches as well.
Link Posted: 2/18/2018 2:27:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Torquing is not rocket science, a castle nut gets 40lbs ft of torque.

Strap wrench, handle less, torque adapter
View Quote
You really torque that to 40 ft lbs?
Link Posted: 3/5/2018 11:40:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Delete: Dupe!
Link Posted: 3/5/2018 11:48:29 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You really torque that to 40 ft lbs?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:

Torquing is not rocket science, a castle nut gets 40lbs ft of torque.

Strap wrench, handle less, torque adapter
You really torque that to 40 ft lbs?
Probably a typo... I've never had to torque down a castle nut past 10lbs. With a good solid stake strike with a quality punch and you can guarantee zero rotation of the castle nut even under hard field use unless a wrench is purposefully put to it for disassembly. A witness mark with a white out pen is durable and quickly lets you see if anything starts to loosen...
Link Posted: 3/5/2018 10:50:28 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Probably a typo... I've never had to torque down a castle nut past 10lbs. With a good solid stake strike with a quality punch and you can guarantee zero rotation of the castle nut even under hard field use unless a wrench is purposefully put to it for disassembly. A witness mark with a white out pen is durable and quickly lets you see if anything starts to loosen...
View Quote
After some additional research, 40 ft/lbs is technically mil-spec. I followed this and added two decent stake jobs on the end plate.
Link Posted: 3/8/2018 1:22:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
After some additional research, 40 ft/lbs is technically mil-spec. I followed this and added two decent stake jobs on the end plate.
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View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:

Probably a typo... I've never had to torque down a castle nut past 10lbs. With a good solid stake strike with a quality punch and you can guarantee zero rotation of the castle nut even under hard field use unless a wrench is purposefully put to it for disassembly. A witness mark with a white out pen is durable and quickly lets you see if anything starts to loosen...
After some additional research, 40 ft/lbs is technically mil-spec. I followed this and added two decent stake jobs on the end plate.
40, then for gas tube alignment, is what I hold to as well.

I have been involved in another activity where a certain critical item - one that just about everyone had - had torque specs that some people ignored.  It was always those people who had problems later on by just relying on what tightness 'felt like' compared to what - in this case - 60 ft-lbs actually was.

My concern with something as low as 10 ft-lbs, or just 'really' tight and blue loctite, would be point of impact shifts when heat was applied.
Link Posted: 3/8/2018 11:12:28 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

40, then for gas tube alignment, is what I hold to as well.

I have been involved in another activity where a certain critical item - one that just about everyone had - had torque specs that some people ignored.  It was always those people who had problems later on by just relying on what tightness 'felt like' compared to what - in this case - 60 ft-lbs actually was.

My concern with something as low as 10 ft-lbs, or just 'really' tight and blue loctite, would be point of impact shifts when heat was applied.
View Quote
Right. Torque specs are required for a reason. I'm a firm believer in them. An engineer somewhere determined it was necessary to a certain degree on the numerous applications out there....so yeah...
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