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[#1]
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#2]
Impressive work
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When your state is shaped like a huge, droopy penis, you have to expect there to be some huge nuts as well.
Mech 2007 |
[#3]
I've always been curious about how ya get the frank above the beans? Do you unpin the fsb and slide it on with the rail
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Silent Brigade 1-20-20
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[Last Edit: CORDrew]
[#4]
Originally Posted By weapons_free: I've always been curious about how ya get the frank above the beans? Do you unpin the fsb and slide it on with the rail View Quote Yes, here's how I did it. Unpin the FSB from the barrel. Spin the FSB for about 10 minutes with lots of lube so it slides on and off easy. Cut the bayonet lug and sling point off of the FSB. Cut the rail. Lots of small adjustments (grinder and files) and test fitting here. Paint. Barrel nut on like usual. Gas tube in the upper and slid as far back as possible. Put the FSB in the rail, through the cut. Slide the rail and FSB on the barrel, as a unit. Mess around with the rail until you can drive in the FSB taper pins through the existing holes in the rail. Tighten the rail like usual. Slide the gas tube into the gas block and pin. Flash hider on. Done. I tested each step and made adjustments prior to final assembly. Not counting paint drying, it took about 4 hours all in. |
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[#5]
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[#6]
Nice! I've chopped many rails for length, but I'm about to do my first FSB pocket on Mk16 with an A2 upper
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[#7]
Originally Posted By CORDrew: Yes, here's how I did it. Unpin the FSB from the barrel. Spin the FSB for about 10 minutes with lots of lube so it slides on and off easy. Cut the bayonet lug and sling point off of the FSB. Cut the rail. Lots of small adjustments (grinder and files) and test fitting here. Paint. Barrel nut on like usual. Gas tube in the upper and slid as far back as possible. Put the FSB in the rail, through the cut. Slide the rail and FSB on the barrel, as a unit. Mess around with the rail until you can drive in the FSB taper pins through the existing holes in the rail. Tighten the rail like usual. Slide the gas tube into the gas block and pin. Flash hider on. Done. I tested each step and made adjustments prior to final assembly. Not counting paint drying, it took about 4 hours all in. View Quote ![]() |
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Silent Brigade 1-20-20
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[#8]
Nicely done.
Imagine it wasn't easy to strike the head of the taper pins through the holes in the handguard. Did you leave the handguard loose or tighten it in it's final location before smacking the pins? I typically use the corner of a vise to press them in, but that wouldn't be possible in this situation. |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By s4s4u: Looks good. Personally, I would have squared off the cut to remove the crescent leftovers even if it made the pocket larger, but.... https://i.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExZTJxZXp3MXdwbWxycWhudjNycHplcnkydWpia2M1NGNjYWZ3ang5cCZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/JvviEn6B5FBgGR6QEv/giphy.gif Are you planning on using a fixed rear to take advantage of that barrel mounted fixed front? View Quote Thanks, yea I thought about squaring and cutting off the "nubs". I thought it might look better with a smaller pocket but would be equally functional either way. I'm probably going to do another one with one of the Geissele blems I just ordered and I'll try to make that one look smoother. Yes, I'm planning a fixed rear. Probably the Midwest fixed combat rear. Or maybe a Daniel Defense. I have a couple of the Midwest sights on other rifles and they're solid. It'll get a red dot too. |
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[#10]
Originally Posted By Blowout: Nicely done. Imagine it wasn't easy to strike the head of the taper pins through the holes in the handguard. Did you leave the handguard loose or tighten it in it's final location before smacking the pins? I typically use the corner of a vise to press them in, but that wouldn't be possible in this situation. View Quote Not bad honestly. I left the rail loose and had to rotate it and slide it forward a bit to line up the holes with the FSB taper pins. Then I braced the barrel and the FSB on wood blocks, and put padding under the rail and upper receiver. Then pounded them in. |
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[#12]
Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Got mine mocked up tonight. Tapped the hole in the FSB for a set screw to hold it for now. Haven't had the FSB or barrel drilled for taper pins yet, and there will be no way that I see to install them, unless I remove the anti rotation tabs. May be able to get away with removing the top tabs and reducing the set screw tabs and still get those to line up the rail and be anti rotation. Otherwise, I guess drill and tap the front of the FSB for a set screw and dimple the barrel. Could also do a combo of remove tabs and make partial pin holes in the side of the rail... https://i.imgur.com/EObtyU3.jpg View Quote Can you get an Allen wrench in there? I typically use setscrews instead of taper pins when I install a FSB on a new barrel. |
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[#13]
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[#14]
Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Got mine mocked up tonight. Tapped the hole in the FSB for a set screw to hold it for now. Haven't had the FSB or barrel drilled for taper pins yet, and there will be no way that I see to install them, unless I remove the anti rotation tabs. May be able to get away with removing the top tabs and reducing the set screw tabs and still get those to line up the rail and be anti rotation. Otherwise, I guess drill and tap the front of the FSB for a set screw and dimple the barrel. Could also do a combo of remove tabs and make partial pin holes in the side of the rail... ETA: this is a .625 barrel/FSB https://i.imgur.com/EObtyU3.jpg View Quote Nice work. I did the same thing when I put together my first chopped rail. 6-32x0.75 set screws were used. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Let's get after it.
For the glory of the empire, so say we all. I collect blank posts and use them |
[#15]
Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Got mine mocked up tonight. Tapped the hole in the FSB for a set screw to hold it for now. Haven't had the FSB or barrel drilled for taper pins yet, and there will be no way that I see to install them, unless I remove the anti rotation tabs. May be able to get away with removing the top tabs and reducing the set screw tabs and still get those to line up the rail and be anti rotation. Otherwise, I guess drill and tap the front of the FSB for a set screw and dimple the barrel. Could also do a combo of remove tabs and make partial pin holes in the side of the rail... ETA: this is a .625 barrel/FSB https://i.imgur.com/EObtyU3.jpg View Quote Looks awesome! Personally, I'd drill some holes in the handguard and run taper pins. I like the bombproof FSB/taper pin combo. But I'm sure that set screws would work well 99.9% of the time. |
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[Last Edit: spyderboy03]
[#16]
Originally Posted By CORDrew: Looks awesome! Personally, I'd drill some holes in the handguard and run taper pins. I like the bombproof FSB/taper pin combo. But I'm sure that set screws would work well 99.9% of the time. View Quote ETA: thanks! |
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[#17]
Originally Posted By M4ger: Nice work. I did the same thing when I put together my first chopped rail. 6-32x0.75 set screws were used. https://live.staticflickr.com/7283/16747485971_0b963a8125_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/8697/16641386673_cfaac8c116_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/8785/16641385633_2325e26316_h.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/1638/24831572075_5bcdcdae57_h.jpg View Quote |
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[#18]
Originally Posted By CORDrew: Looks awesome! Personally, I'd drill some holes in the handguard and run taper pins. I like the bombproof FSB/taper pin combo. But I'm sure that set screws would work well 99.9% of the time. View Quote You are not wrong. But, I have beaten the crap out of setscrewed FSB's and not lost POI. Set screws are a lot easier to lock in the front sight indexing as well, and as a bonus you will have a drift adjustable FSB if you mess that up. A mini-maglight and a plumb line make that easy-peasy tho ![]() |
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[#19]
Originally Posted By s4s4u: You are not wrong. But, I have beaten the crap out of setscrewed FSB's and not lost POI. Set screws are a lot easier to lock in the front sight indexing as well, and as a bonus you will have a drift adjustable FSB if you mess that up. A mini-maglight and a plumb line make that easy-peasy tho ![]() View Quote Are you guys just drilling straight through the FSB, tapping all the way through, then installing 4 set screws? |
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[#20]
Originally Posted By spyderboy03: @M4ger and @s4s4u Are you guys just drilling straight through the FSB, tapping all the way through, then installing 4 set screws? View Quote What actually works best is take-off FSB's that have already been reamed. You just run a drill bit through the holes to conform them and then tap. With a new FSB you will get deflection when you drill it unless you use a filler rod that is the same diameter as the inside of the FSB. Don't ask me how I know... ![]() |
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[#21]
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#23]
Great info here by a fellow Arf member:
https://acatholicmechanic.blogspot.com/2016/02/diy-a2-front-sight-base-install.html?m=1 |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#25]
Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Got the FSB taper pinned and installed. Definitely a pain and definitely a few things I might do differently if I did it again. The back pin cutout is the first one I did and I didn't realize how high up in to the meat of the rail the FSB was. I adjusted for the front hole and got it closer to where it needed to be. I'll likely pick up some rail covers and it will hide the holes. https://i.imgur.com/M6PH7Xk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/17CN50U.jpg View Quote I think it looks awesome and will be a great rifle. Are you planning to do anything the color the raw aluminum at the cuts? I'm going to cut a DDC (brown) geissele rail but haven't decided how to deal with coating/coloring the raw cut. |
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[#27]
Nice job!
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[#28]
Looks good
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[#29]
Nice. I cheated and chopped a Midwest 2 piece fsp cutout free float rail down for a 10.5 mk18ish build.
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