I have some left over GI style AR triggers left over from LPKs.  I put one into a Larue fixture and dry fire it maybe 1500 times.  It isn't as light as a BCM PNT or Geissele ACT, but it is just as smooth.

I've ruined triggers with polishing, and have used other two stage triggers by Geissele, Larue, Rock River and Schmid, as well as the Hiperfire EDT.  I'm intrigued by how usable a cheap parts kit trigger can be.


Question:  Am I missing any non destructive short cuts to break in of an ordinary GI style trigger group?

Here is how I do it:  I sell unused GI type triggers on the EE, or I install them in "trade" rifles to get rid of them.  There are myriads of inexpensive and higher quality triggers on the market, and although my time is cheap, it is not that cheap.  ALG, ACT is my go-to for the least expensive, quality milspec trigger.  

I love the Larue trigger action chassis.

I don't know if it helps, but I rub writing pencil graphite on the sear points to break them in.

I used grease and oil, but I'll try a pencil too.  I don't know how prone 8620 is to galling, but I didn't want to invite that.

I've had cheap triggers with slight burring I've cleaned up with a very light dremel polish and flitz

But the PNT is my go to for Schmidt style single stage

That worked pretty well.

The Larue chassis is a great value.  I have a piece of rubber fastened at the hammer strike area to keep it quieter.  It lets me adjust an over travel stop against the selector as well.


It's remarkable how widely cheap kit triggers vary.  Of five, one cleared up and is smooth within fewer than ten pulls, while another feels like it is made of glue and sandpaper.

Pencil graphite works very well initially but after a hundred or so cycles it seems to clump or wear thin enough to allow sticky spots.  Same is true of chocolate btw.

Once most of the polishing is done, I've found a pass or two over the hammer notch with a dirty bore brush to provide hundreds of smooth and consistent pulls.