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Posted: 6/30/2023 12:36:14 PM EDT
I currently use Breakfree CLP and I don't like it. It's quite messy, doesn't stay put, and burns off quickly. I was looking at two additional products: Slip2000 extreme weapon grease, and their EW30 oil which is just a thickened CLP.
Does grease (specifically, grease made for lubricating weapons) work well in carbon/gas rich builds? My AR is suppressed and gets dirty VERY QUICKLY. So I definitely want a lubricant that can handle a lot of carbon and heat. Secondly, I have a TON of aeroshell 33ms sitting around, would that make a decent weapon lubricant? Maybe mixed with some CLP? Thoughts? |
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I gave up on CLP when my friend used it to clean his minty Luger after some corrosive ammo. CLP did not clean, lubricate or preserve.
I use ATF or hydraulic oil (for tractor/loader) as I have lots on hand. The hydraulic oil is a bit higher viscosity, Both lubricate very well and are moisture resistant and have a very high flash point; that is to say, they have to get really hot to burn. I can not think of any need for grease on an AR but I do use grease on rails and bearing points on pistol slides. |
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There are a ton of threads on this floating around here.
The general consensus is roll with what you like/works best in your situation. Some go with the standard gun lubes (CLP, Slip 2000, etc), others like automotive motor oil or a witches brew of homemade stuff (ATF mixed with other things, etc). Then, there are the 'greasers' (including yours truly) who like using gun and non-gun specific greases for AR lubrication. I was a CLP guy for decades, then, I gave Mobil 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease a go. I have run with that for about 15 or so years. Over the last year or so, I mix in a little Slip 2000 EWL with it. Again, as long as you don't do something like run Frog Lube or WD40, pick what works for you and is cost effective. Dig around for the various threads that talk about the pros/cons of the various things listed herein. |
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Originally Posted By hidaro: I currently use Breakfree CLP and I don't like it. It's quite messy, doesn't stay put, and burns off quickly. I was looking at two additional products: Slip2000 extreme weapon grease, and their EW30 oil which is just a thickened CLP. Does grease (specifically, grease made for lubricating weapons) work well in carbon/gas rich builds? My AR is suppressed and gets dirty VERY QUICKLY. So I definitely want a lubricant that can handle a lot of carbon and heat. Secondly, I have a TON of aeroshell 33ms sitting around, would that make a decent weapon lubricant? Maybe mixed with some CLP? Thoughts? View Quote Be green, use solar or wind to lube your gun |
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Grease hardens as it uses Soap as a thickener.
The Idea with oils is it keeps the carbon liquid so it can be cleaned off. I did some research on Piston ar's a few years back. Full auto and suppressed applications were where they excelled. They run cooler in full auto. They stay cleaner when suppressed. Other than that DI rules. |
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Grease is a potential problem on a DI gun as it holds contaminants in place. Oil migrates and allows carbon to soften and migrate.
The most reliable AR is one lubed with CLP every 350 rounds or so. Doing that, it will run until component failure. |
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OP, what is Aeroshell? Please describe. CLP works as designed.
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Aeroshell is a family of lubricants for the aviation industry manufactured by Shell Oil Co.
It ranges from greases, to jet turbine oils, to hydraulic oils, to ash free motor oils for piston motored aircraft. RCA |
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Originally Posted By Mindless: I gave up on CLP when my friend used it to clean his minty Luger after some corrosive ammo. CLP did not clean, lubricate or preserve. I use ATF or hydraulic oil (for tractor/loader) as I have lots on hand. The hydraulic oil is a bit higher viscosity, Both lubricate very well and are moisture resistant and have a very high flash point; that is to say, they have to get really hot to burn. I can not think of any need for grease on an AR but I do use grease on rails and bearing points on pistol slides. View Quote Any oil based lubricant/cleaner will fail with corrosive ammunition. For corrosive ammunition, you need to clean it with a water based cleaner to get the salt from the primers off the steel. |
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Originally Posted By Colt653: MOBIL1 for gun oil MOBIL1 bearing grease for Garands done https://i.imgur.com/fGm2dy8.jpg View Quote I mix the two. Just enough grease to keep it from running. Use it on every gun I own. It’s NOT a preservative however. And just like any other, disappears quick after a few mags of suppressed. |
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You think you're winning this game? You don't even know the God-damned rules. But don't worry, I'm gonna teach 'em to ya..
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They make thin high temperature greases that, for me, work great. Currently use Lucas gun gun grease and Lucas gun oil. Am also using some grease (ALG oil and very thin grease) that I got from Geissele on a test basis. The ALG grease goes on from a squeezable plastic bottle and is very thin. Time will tell how good it is. With very light coatings of the Lucas grease I am able to wipe off powder fouling from the BCG with a paper towel. Apply and spread around for a very thin coat. Formerly used Tetra gun grease but it seemed to attact moisture and perhaps even promote rust. As always, your mileage may vary.
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Originally Posted By Colt653: MOBIL1 for gun oil MOBIL1 bearing grease for Garands ... and M14's ... done https://i.imgur.com/fGm2dy8.jpg View Quote THIS, is the way ! |
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Take a look at Breakfree LP. It's thicker than CLP.
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Aeroshell 33ms/64 grease contains molybdenum disulfide, 5%, according to the manufacturer’s information. Personally, I would be concerned about a risk of molybdenum getting in the air and then inhaled if it were used liberally as a shooting lubricant on bolts, bolt carriers etc. But maybe that’s not as much of an issue with a grease as it would be with an oil.
I have no problem with using it for barrel nuts/upper receiver threads, but always wear gloves when applying it for this purpose. IIRC, I read somewhere here on Arfcom that molybdenum containing grease for barrel nuts/castle nuts has been discontinued in one or more branches of the U.S. military, due to environmental/toxicity concerns. My guess is that exposure risks for armorers would be higher than for an amateur who uses it occasionally. Disclaimer: I’m not an expert. I could be wrong, and welcome any criticism or corrections. |
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“War is a racket….”
Smedley D. Butler, Maj.-Gen., USMC |
Anyone have experience with Super Lube multi-purpose grease? It is food grade, and comes in NLGI 0, and 1. I have tried Lucas Xtra heavy duty which is a bit thick (NLGI 2) so I wanted to try a grease with a lighter consistency.
This is what I'm referring to. Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease Curious if it's worth trying out |
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Originally Posted By spambawx: Anyone have experience with Super Lube multi-purpose grease? It is food grade, and comes in NLGI 0, and 1. I have tried Lucas Xtra heavy duty which is a bit thick (NLGI 2) so I wanted to try a grease with a lighter consistency. This is what I'm referring to. Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease Curious if it's worth trying out View Quote I do. I use their grease and oil. Got rid of everything else. Several people have experience with it. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Handguns/Which-of-these-greases-is-better-for-metal-to-metal-trigger-parts-/4-210890/#top |
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Originally Posted By Saber329: I do. I use their grease and oil. Got rid of everything else. Several people have experience with it. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Handguns/Which-of-these-greases-is-better-for-metal-to-metal-trigger-parts-/4-210890/#top View Quote Thanks, I think I’ll be switching to this as my go-to |
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J4 Cvt trans Fluid, Got rid of every gun lube I had, it helps remove powder fouling, use a q tip to clean muzzle, devices, it dont burn off & Don't smoke like engine oil, it hangs around on the metal parts, the j4 cvt fluid keeps the metal treated. it helps protect bronze, aluminum, steel, bearings, don't hurt the plastics, all of these are in cvt transmissions, the kicker for me was it keeps a all metal cvt belt chain from galling the all metal variable ratio pulleys, work at mitsubishi, I get all I need, but they have it at auto part stores. 1 quart will last years, when you charge the bolt or pistol slide you will notice its slick & fast, I use it on my Reloading equipment
I put this shitt on everything & your guns will like it too try it nothing to loose |
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Originally Posted By FedDC: Grease is a potential problem on a DI gun as it holds contaminants in place. Oil migrates and allows carbon to soften and migrate. The most reliable AR is one lubed with CLP every 350 rounds or so. Doing that, it will run until component failure. View Quote This. |
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I’m not making no claims against using grease. I just don’t like it for a DI action. It’s a free country right now. But I have been using BreakFree CLP in the gallon jugs for pushing 40 years. It’s done everything they state it will do. It’s a very good All in One Product. Not the best at any one thing. But decent at all three. I could tell you a story about an AK guy in Kansas , Attorney General , and a chicken coup . Wardawg
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just run whatever little jug of Motor Oil you have lying around the garage....lube it up and run it.
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I shot action rifle competitions with a suppressed AR for a while. 150-200 rds a day. If I just used clp it would start short stroking late in the day. I started lubing the gas rings and bolt with a lite coat of superlube grease, and that problem went away.
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I don't get the internet hate for CLP. "It burns off," "it doesn't stay." Just because it's not still dripping wet after you do 5 mag dumps into a pile of dirt doesn't mean it's still not lubricating. It's just normal maintenance to relube after a lot of rounds. Have yall even looked at the specs issue CLP has to meet? This is just the weapons firing part of the spec:
3.5.2.1 Cold temperature. CLP applied to an M249 that is then exposed to severe cold for 18 hours shall prevent any Class II or III stoppages, shall allow not more than two Class I stoppages in 200 rounds, and shall sustain a rate of fire of not less than 650 rounds per minute (rpm). 3.5.2.2 Dust environments. CLP applied to an M249 that is then exposed to very fine blowing dust for 50 minutes shall prevent any Class II or III stoppages, shall allow not more than five Class I stoppages in 500 rounds, and shall sustain a rate of fire of not less than 650 rpm. 3.5.2.3 Salt-spray environments. CLP applied to an M249 that is then exposed to a salt-spray environment for 96 hours shall prevent any Class II or III stoppages, shall allow not more than two Class I stoppages in 200 rounds, and shall sustain a rate of fire of not less than 650 rpm. View Quote http://everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF-030000-79999/download.php?spec=MIL-PRF-63460F.055745.pdf |
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When you think about it, motor oils are pretty versatile.
They must work on sliding, rolling, and rotating surfaces as well as function as a gear oil (timing gears) chain oil (timing chain) and even as a hydraulic oil (hydraulic lifters). Motor oils also have to work as a sort of heat transfer fluid. All this while inside an environment that generates extreme heat and pressure and is flooded with the byproducts of combustion. RCA |
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I use biosynextra clp. Meets milspec. Non toxic. BCG was still wet when I got done shooting this weekend suppressed. Our resident oil expert approves.
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Originally Posted By Colt653: MOBIL1 for gun oil MOBIL1 bearing grease for Garands done https://i.imgur.com/fGm2dy8.jpg View Quote Dude, everybody knows you have to use 10W-40 on AR15s. |
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In before Foxtrot!
I'm a fan of very light greases for sliding parts. I have a supply of cherrybalmz from before they went TU, not sure what I'll switch to when that runs out. Past couple years I've been thinking bicycle lubricants work in environments similar to AR's I'm not a fan of home brewed concoctions, there's a reason chemists earn a lot of money filling catalogs with all kinds of specialty greases. I'm not a chemist but I know how to read a catalog. But, yeah, we do tend to WAY overthink this. I've run home brewed concoctions of CLP/gear oil and CLP/motor oil and they worked for heavy use. |
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I know I'll never go home.
So set fire to your ships, and past regrets, and be free. |
One lightweight, thin grease you can run is John Deere corn header grease.
As a bonus, it is white in color so won't stain your clothes. Corn header grease can also be run in gear boxes that leak gear oil. Lot of old brush hogs have it in them. RCA |
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Originally Posted By mcantu: I don't get the internet hate for CLP. "It burns off," "it doesn't stay." Just because it's not still dripping wet after you do 5 mag dumps into a pile of dirt doesn't mean it's still not lubricating. It's just normal maintenance to relube after a lot of rounds. Have yall even looked at the specs issue CLP has to meet? This is just the weapons firing part of the spec: The whole CLP spec makes for interesting reading if you're into that kind of thing http://everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF-030000-79999/download.php?spec=MIL-PRF-63460F.055745.pdf View Quote Some people think the solvent added to make it a cleaner means it's not as good a lube. It's funny when those same people push using a synthetic motor oil (ok, they might have the same base stock) which contain detergents. |
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Originally Posted By Unicorn: Some people think the solvent added to make it a cleaner means it's not as good a lube. It's funny when those same people push using a synthetic motor oil (ok, they might have the same base stock) which contain detergents. View Quote The purpose of detergents in motor oil is to keep the particulate matter in suspension so the filter can grab it. |
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Preferred Pronoun: Space Lord Mutherfucker
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I always come back to a couple of things.
I've used CLP in theater, in firefights, never had a rifle, carbine, or machine gun fail because of lubrication. I have seen grease become gritty with debris. I use CLP. No sense in reinventing the wheel and definitely doesn't make sense to do something I know is counterproductive. |
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Grease always had its drawbacks in normal wear areas, seems to cake up even in hot and humid SETX. I carried AR, pump, wheelies and semi auto pistols in this BS we call weather, guns getting rained on frequently, etc. I recently went back to lithium grease for buffer/spring but still with what's worked for me for decades everywhere else-whatever viscocity of Mobil 1 motor oil I happen to have around. I have a couple lifetime's worth drained off into needle bottles from oil changes. Cheaper than fancy repackaged snake oil.
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Crap Magnet Extraordinaire
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Aeroshell may make PLS, which I think is the predecessor to LSA, which in turn is the predecessor to CLP.
PLS is regular oil, and I think protectant, invented for firearms. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong. LSA is the synthetic lube that is thick, somewhere between a grease and oil. I think LSA is considered a better lubricant, but it isn't for cleaning. |
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I've used 30 weight motor oil for quite a while. It stays put and is used in much higher temp areas, like your car or truck engine, so it holds up well in an AR.
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You can always use the CLP to clean and then afterwards dab a little grease on the rails of your bcg. You only need to lube 6 points on the bcg. The bolt where it has a raised rail near the extractor and the 4 rails of the bcg and the cam pin. Using a brush or qtip will be enough.
Also nothing wrong with bringing some CLP with you to the range to squirt into the action. You’ll want to squirt some into the action and into the gas vents of the bcg (the 2 tiny holes where the dust cover recess). It’s really a test. If you got a lot of aeroshell and CLP around roll with it to see. Everyone got a combo. I would argue the problem is that although you got CLP on there you’re not specifically concentrating it into the areas that are important. About 90% of the bcg is just mass. Learn where the contact points are and pay attention to those areas when lubing . |
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