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Posted: 5/7/2024 8:46:19 PM EDT
I have a very nice colt M4 that has no trigger guard installed.
How do I mitigate the risk of breaking the ear off on the lower when installing the pin? If there is a tool that can be recommended I will buy it, just looking for advice. |
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Make your own Exploding Targets!
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=75&t=472752 Make your own Tac-Sling! http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=233665 |
[#1]
Wheeler Engineering Trigger Guard Install Tool for Installing and Changing Trigger Guards While Gunsmithing, on Amazon
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[#2]
Have you used this?
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Make your own Exploding Targets!
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=75&t=472752 Make your own Tac-Sling! http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=233665 |
[#3]
I always used a small block of wood cut down to fit between the ears of the receiver. I had drilled a hole in the wood so the pin would have unobstructed access to the other side of receiver ear.
Low tech, but I never broke an ear. |
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America is at that awkward stage, it’s too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards....Claire Wolfe
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[#4]
That's good advice, thank you for that.
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Make your own Exploding Targets!
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=75&t=472752 Make your own Tac-Sling! http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=233665 |
[#5]
Block of wood and roll pin punch. Use a light brad hammer and go slow. I have done many and never broke a ear.
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[#6]
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Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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[#7]
Grease the pin, this is key. Use a roll pin starter punch and put a toothpick in the opposite side to hold the guard in place until the pin is started. I use a mag well block and don’t support the legs. As long as you don’t miss the punch it’s easy peasy. I’ve only ever broke one and that was while using the wood block method. Again, a little lithium grease on the pin makes it a lot less difficult
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[#8]
Support and a drop of oil are key.
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#9]
I see grease and oil have been mentioned. I always used plenty of oil.
I also grabbed the appropriate size drill bit and chased the anodizing in the hole by hand. Just to knock of lumps and high spots. The first twist was catchy and jerky but a couple twists and the hole was smoothed out by not oversized. |
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Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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[#10]
Lately, I have been using a roll pin guide like everyone mentioned. Once it is in place I use a taped up Channel lock (tape on the jaws) to squeeze it into place. Nice and smooth (lube as mentioned). It might need a final tap to get in place. I have been scared to death of breaking the ears, but this methods is smooth and easy. A wood block in between the ears also relieves the anxiety.
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Never be more than one step away from your sword.-Greek proverb
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[#11]
I've done a few using a C clamp to press in.
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[Last Edit: j3_]
[#12]
I took a piece of steel flat bar and drilled two holes in it down to the minimum size for the 1/8" roll/split pin. I drive the pin through them once or twice to close them up some before I install them with either support under the bottom lower ear or the wheeler tool for it I have.
The kind of not thought about thing in installing a pin is the hole in the trigger guard itself. I have seen the hole from minimum allowed for the pin to fit through by the pin specs to somewhere in the mil spec range of diameters and even up to bigger than the pin and mil-spec diameter. It makes a difference on how hard it is to install the pin. Did I mention I have seen roll/split pins that would not and could not collapse to the smallest diameter they were supposed to be able to by the pin specs? |
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[#13]
I press them in with a set of these wrapped in tape to not mare the receiver. Same with the bolt release pin just squeeze the grips with mild pressure and they just slip in no sweat.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-8-in-Pliers/1003165096 |
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I know you can feel it let it in people will still hate you in the end.
So hate back, plan the attack then they will realize they cannot crack the mind of a fucking maniac. The voice inside you always wins your grave's been dug so lie in it. |
[#14]
Knipex, smooth, parallel jaw.
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#15]
I use this to install and remove
https://a.co/d/aoaKR8y |
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[Last Edit: sgtlmj]
[#16]
The Wheeler tool works well, but if you are just doing one pin it's not worth the money. Here's a couple tips that may help. I've done thousands of these without exaggeration.
1. Remove the grip. This allows you to lay the lower relatively flat. 2. With the trigger guard in place, gently start the spring pin by giving it a couple taps. Never tap on the pin without the trigger guard providing support between the ears, and always support them from the back with a bench block. 3. Once it is started and straight, use a vise with soft jaws (I like the rubber faced jaws) and press the pin almost all the way in. 4. Finish up with a few taps from a roll pin punch. Make sure you have the lower flat and the ears supported on the back with a bench block. Hope this helps. |
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[#17]
I skip all that as its a poor design despite having been around for a long, long time.
Use screws which does not stress the ears and makes changing trigger guards in the future stress proof. https://entirelycrimson.com/products/trigger-guard-upgrade-screw-kit?_pos=1&_sid=386c51137&_ss=r cheap too. |
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[#18]
Originally Posted By Britbike2001: I skip all that as its a poor design despite having been around for a long, long time. Use screws which does not stress the ears and makes changing trigger guards in the future stress proof. https://entirelycrimson.com/products/trigger-guard-upgrade-screw-kit?_pos=1&_sid=386c51137&_ss=r cheap too. View Quote I use a punch, the trigger guard, and a block of wood, but I like the looks of this Crimson screw kit. |
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[#19]
Originally Posted By Britbike2001: I skip all that as its a poor design despite having been around for a long, long time. Use screws which does not stress the ears and makes changing trigger guards in the future stress proof. https://entirelycrimson.com/products/trigger-guard-upgrade-screw-kit?_pos=1&_sid=386c51137&_ss=r cheap too. View Quote Good thought. Magpul uses screws for their new MOE trigger guard: https://magpul.com/moe-enhanced-trigger-guard-polymer-ar15-m4.html?mp_global_color=118 |
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[#20]
I have had a lot of success using channel locks.
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The other sexy Pirate.
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[Last Edit: 556Cliff]
[#21]
Use a solid bench block or hard wood for support, use a coiled roll pin (split pins for the trigger guard, bolt catch and forward assist don't like the hammer and punch method), add a drop of oil to the end of the pin.
Of course you should have all the appropriate size roll pin punches on hand, including starter and holder punches. And slave pins to keep the holes lined up. That method has always worked very well for me. |
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[Last Edit: HipSh0T]
[#22]
Originally Posted By 556Cliff: Use a solid bench block or hard wood for support, use a coiled roll pin (split pins for the trigger guard, bolt catch and forward assist don't like the hammer and punch method), add a drop of oil to the end of the pin. Of course you should have all the appropriate size roll pin punches on hand, including starter and holder punches. And slave pins to keep the holes lined up. That method has always worked very well for me. View Quote You can always count on Cliff to throw bleach in the eyes of anyone who presses in our pins. |
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WTB : KAC FF M4 RAS P/N 20208
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[Last Edit: 556Cliff]
[#23]
Originally Posted By HipSh0T: You can always count on Cliff to throw bleach in the eyes of anyone who presses in our pins. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By HipSh0T: Originally Posted By 556Cliff: Use a solid bench block or hard wood for support, use a coiled roll pin (split pins for the trigger guard, bolt catch and forward assist don't like the hammer and punch method), add a drop of oil to the end of the pin. Of course you should have all the appropriate size roll pin punches on hand, including starter and holder punches. And slave pins to keep the holes lined up. That method has always worked very well for me. You can always count on Cliff to throw bleach in the eyes of anyone who presses in our pins. True, unless it's with an arbor press... If I had one I'd set up to do all my roll pins that way. Though that's best suited for the assembly line and I don't assemble anything on a scale large enough to switch from my tried and true hammer and punch method. |
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