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Originally Posted By HK94dude: PSA AR-V with Rare breed trigger. I was getting bolt bounce. Swapped out for a 8.5oz buffer and zero issues Is this still running well? It sounds like an easy button route to a reasonably priced 9mm FRT. Which barrel length is yours? |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: Is this still running well? It sounds like an easy button route to a reasonably priced 9mm FRT. Which barrel length is yours? Originally Posted By heavyduty: Originally Posted By HK94dude: PSA AR-V with Rare breed trigger. I was getting bolt bounce. Swapped out for a 8.5oz buffer and zero issues Is this still running well? It sounds like an easy button route to a reasonably priced 9mm FRT. Which barrel length is yours? 10" barrel, but if I had it to do over, I would probably go shorter. Still runs without any issues. I had it out last week to sight in a different red dot. After that I dumped a couple mags just because  |
Stolen Firearm: Colt AR15, Serial # SP342380, 16" carbine. Stolen in California by Kevin Ayres, and taken to Missouri.
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Originally Posted By HK94dude: 10" barrel, but if I had it to do over, I would probably go shorter. Still runs without any issues. I had it out last week to sight in a different red dot. After that I dumped a couple mags just because My current 9mm PCCs are all in the 4”-5” range except for my 9”ish SP5 - I’m liking the longer barrel and would probably build this 8” or so. |
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Originally Posted By BUCC_Guy: Reporting in that a CMMG 9mm Banshee (RDB) works after bumping to an H3 buffer (specifically a T3 from Spike's). This is the only 9mm I know of that uses a standard buffer (without a spacer), so you don't have unlimited, affordable options above an H2. Choked like a Freshman invited to prom with a normal carbine buffer, but gulps along with the H3. It's a Mk9 lower taking Colt SMG mags like Jesus intended. Have to order this separate from the upper. Side note, CMMG's cerekote sucks ass. Anodize things, you asses. Two test trips to the range and the thing is showing raw aluminum. Mine runs with an H1 buffer using 147gr subs with a suppressed 5" upper and the DTT trigger. I recently tried a Partisan Disruptor and it did not run. Likely needs an H3. With the DTT and 115 gr FMJ and the standard buffer it runs really fast, like 750-800 RPM. Adding the H1 or H2 buffer makes it so there isn't enough energy to lock back on the mag catch. I think barrel length and back pressure play a significant role in this, and there is a limited buffer mass window where you get enough moving mass to stop bolt bounce and still enough blowback energy to lock open on empty. |
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Looking for advice. I have a 10.5" SBR with a OSS 30 cal can. It utilizes a odin works 223 wild barrel and adjustable gas block. I had tuned it to run perfectly with the standard carbine buffer spring and weight. I recently installed a Partisain Disruptor FRT and per their recommendation replaced the buffer weight and spring with a geissele H3 buffer weight and spring. Runs through entire 30 round mag flawlessly however it fails to lock back after last round fired. I am assuming it is a little starved for gas considering I tuned it with a standard weight buffer. My question is should I lower buffer weight or give it more gas? The simple solution seems to be just give it more gas but wouldn't reducing buffer weight and leaving gas alone put less stress on the system as a whole? I do see a similar set up in the OP running an H2 buffer so I am pretty sure lowering buffer weight will fix it, just not sure if that is ultimately the most reliable solution. Thanks in advance for any help rendered. |
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Originally Posted By Derpdiggler: Looking for advice. I have a 10.5" SBR with a OSS 30 cal can. It utilizes a odin works 223 wild barrel and adjustable gas block. I had tuned it to run perfectly with the standard carbine buffer spring and weight. I recently installed a Partisain Disruptor FRT and per their recommendation replaced the buffer weight and spring with a geissele H3 buffer weight and spring. Runs through entire 30 round mag flawlessly however it fails to lock back after last round fired. I am assuming it is a little starved for gas considering I tuned it with a standard weight buffer. My question is should I lower buffer weight or give it more gas? The simple solution seems to be just give it more gas but wouldn't reducing buffer weight and leaving gas alone put less stress on the system as a whole? I do see a similar set up in the OP running an H2 buffer so I am pretty sure lowering buffer weight will fix it, just not sure if that is ultimately the most reliable solution. Thanks in advance for any help rendered. Give it a bit more gas. H3 is best practice for FRTs, particularly for short barrels, particularly suppressed. |
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Originally Posted By Derpdiggler: The simple solution seems to be just give it more gas but wouldn't reducing buffer weight and leaving gas alone put less stress on the system as a whole? First, Elittlefield gave you good advice. Speaking to "stress" - the H2 buffer will increase the velocity of the buffer entering battery. If the deadblow is effective - the lighter buffer translates directly to increased rate of fire. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Give it a bit more gas. H3 is best practice for FRTs, particularly for short barrels, particularly suppressed. Glad to see this thread is still active! I’ll modify the title to include the Partisan since it’s effectively similar enough to the RBT/DTT to be in the same discussion. With that being said I’m not saying that gives any validity to any legal claims of either party in their current lawsuit; I’m not a patent attorney, mechanical engineer and know just enough about this stuff to get my ass kicked! …and I also agree with @ELittlefield, who is knowledgeable of the subject at hand. 👍🏼 |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: Having tried both DTT and Partisan in 2 of the same guns, I can say they are different enough to require different tuning and the trip timing is a little different as well. Thank you for adding that perspective, I appreciate it. 👍🏼 |
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Sig Rattler 5.5" with RB FRT-15L3 and PMM trip. Suppressor is a Silencerco Chimera. Ammo is 220gr subsonic. Runs well though ROF seems high. Partisan trigger when installed experienced light primer strikes and would not function in FRT mode. |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: Having tried both DTT and Partisan in 2 of the same guns, I can say they are different enough to require different tuning and the trip timing is a little different as well. Oddly enough my experience was the opposite. (I’m shooting 5.56 though.) 11.5 B. King Firearms “Gun from Heat” upper with H3 buffer and carbine spring. Ran the Rare Breed 15L3 just fine. (This is the one with no markings on the trigger housing.) Swapped it out last week for a Partisan Disruptor and it started purring like a kitten. Both run great with or without a Turbo K suppressor. YMMV 
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Originally Posted By mini14jac: Oddly enough my experience was the opposite. (I'm shooting 5.56 though.) 11.5 B. King Firearms "Gun from Heat" upper with H3 buffer and carbine spring. Ran the Rare Breed 15L3 just fine. (This is the one with no markings on the trigger housing.) Swapped it out last week for a Partisan Disruptor and it started purring like a kitten. Both run great with or without a Turbo K suppressor. YMMV In a straight blowback 9mm gun with a glock mag lower, I had installed the DTT and then tuned the trip timing by grinding the trip ledge on the bolt back so that it trips just before the bolt is closed. I used shims cut from a pop can. It will not trip with 2 shims between the bolt and barrel, but it will trip with one. This minimizes the chance of an OOB detonation because some of these blowback 9s require a very aggressive feed cone in the barrel and there is less chamber support. It runs very fast with a KAK 11 oz deadblow buffer. Swapped in the Disruptor and the trip doesn't activate. This means they are designed with a later trip timing than the DTT (which is good for blowback) but it also means they can't share the same bolt if you time it like I did. It's really only a problem if your blowback AR9 needs an enhanced feed cone to work. Any AR9 that needs enhanced feed cones to work probably aren't the best choice for FRT due to the OOB risk and timing becoming critical. With the regular feed cones a little early timing isn't as much of a problem since more of the case is supported. ETA I also noted that the Disruptor trip lever spring is a lot stronger than the DTT. The trip lever spring is constantly applying rearward pressure to the bolt when it's in battery. This could be why I experience more bounce issuses with the Disruptor since the trip lever spring aids in rearward travel of the bolt. A lighter trip lever spring might allow for a lighter buffer (and faster ROF). I have some H3 buffers on order and will report back when I get a chance to try them. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Give it a bit more gas. H3 is best practice for FRTs, particularly for short barrels, particularly suppressed. Followed your advice and gave it a bit more gas, runs flawlessly. Ejecting consistently at about 3 o'clock and locks back every tie the mag is empty. Thank you! |
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Just as an update, I have the Partisan Disruptor running in my 5" barrel 9mm Banshee FE MkGs. The sauce is 147gr subs, a suppressor, and an H3 buffer with the standard carbine spring and no bolt weight. Runs and locks open on empty. It is a bit disappointing that the DTT will run with an H1 and the Disruptor will not, but I'm okay with it. I just like a higher ROF than I'm getting with the H3. |
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Been catching up on some of the other FRT threads and figured I’d update this one while I’m at it… Since there’s a ROF Trigger subforum now, I don’t know why anyone would post a FRT thread in GD but Gee Dee’rs are gonna Gee Dee…🙄 ANYWAY while the triggers themselves are drop-in, whatever it’s used in is going to require some “tuning”. For 5.56 guns (besides a FA bolt) all you should need is an H2 or 3 buffer. What’s apparent is there seems to be no shortage of folks having issues, and more often than not it’s one of two things; they haven’t those basic items in place to ensure their FRTs are going to work to begin with and/or their guns won’t run due to a lack of basic maintenance/lubrication. The latter of the two is frankly inexcusable but…whatever. That being said there’s no doubt been FRTs that themselves have been defective out of the box. That seems to have lead to folks jumping to the conclusion the femtosecond their FRT doesn’t work that it MUST be the trigger and when they get a new one, surprise, they’re having the same issue. There’s no doubt some extremely knowledgeable folks weighing in…and I don’t for a second consider myself one of them but some of the lack of basic knowledge of things as simple as the cycle of function by some of these folks is…noteworthy. With some exceptions it seems that folks that have a basic grasp on how their rifles work and understand gas port size, bolt bouce, etc. seem to have the least problems, or at least are able to self diagnose and get their guns running while those on the other end of the spectrum (NO pun intended!) seem to be having the most problems and are need their hands held through the entire process. I know, I know, this is a gun forum but I’d be flat out embarrassed to be one of these mouth-breathers. I’ve asked for and received help here but only after I’ve exhausted my own knowledge base and researched for a solution on my own first. I guess I lack the knee jerk reaction to post my every failure on the internet the second after it happens! 🤣 With all of that being said my 3 DTT/RBT FRTs are running as advertised in my CMMG Banshee .45 SBR (suppressed/unsuppressed with OSS Rad 45, running both standard and +P ammo), Aero 5.56 10.5-inch SBR (w/OSS 5.56 K-can) and Aero .300 BO 8-inch SBR (w/SureFire SOCOM 300 SPS can). Round counts for the Banshee and Aero 5.56 are over 1K each, and the Aero .300 BO is just over 500, so while not particularly high those rounds counts are minimally in semi and mostly FRT with bursts and minimal full-mag dumps. Any of these guns are absolutely GTG to grab when the SHTF; they are NOT range toys are have proven themselves reliable to the point I’d bet my life on it, which is no easy task. |
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Are there any durability concerns with this style? Of the triggers themselves, other components of the rifle or both…? The FA-like ROF with prolonged use is not going to particularly amenable to budget builds or questionable components. Just when you thought all those burn down videos were dumb! One thing I’ve found mandatory with the SD builds, AKA suppressor tuck where a portion of the can is underneath and oversized rail (I used the Midwest Industries one for both of mine and like them just fine), is the heat transfer is NO joke; and since gloves aren’t always..handy (very punny!) a heat resistant rail wrap is not a bad idea. I’m using Burn Proof Gear and find them excellent at protecting my bare hands very well. The thing about FRTs is that if you cheaped out on anything you’re gonna wish you hadn’t; cry once buy once as they say. |
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Triggers. FRTs have been around for a while, but have only picked up in popularity recently… As I previously stated, I modified my DTT/RBT FRTs because the selector switches were hot garbage/Airsoft “quality” and there was way too much slop for my liking in the trigger and hammer pins. I bought KNS Precision anti-walk pins and got properly milled MIL spec selectors from a gentleman here on ARFCom and installed them in all of mine. Basically $75 on top of what I spent on the FRT itself. Both those items will help with longevity but I’m not sure anyone has a round count high enough where parts breakage of the FRTs themselves has come up. We’re definitely seeing FRTs that were initially running starting to encounter issues after use, but it’s not wear. It’s typically a lubrication issue and/or it’s dirty, particularly in the cassette TGs that are enclosed. A popped primer will screw up ANY TG, cassette or otherwise but I haven’t seen a case yet where something broke because of substandard material, improper heat treating, etc. On the Partisan thread there was chatter about the set screws on the outside of the cassette walking out and Loc-Tite (or similar compound) was NOT the fix; staking it was and there was a quick-fix/how-to on how to go about it… If anyone else knows of any issues please chime in; this is the good, the bad and the ugly up in this thread! |
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 I'd also like to submit an Adams Arms piston kit side of things. I own a midlength 556 kit and a 300blk kit using a low profile carrier. On both ARC and Partisan, the regular carrier will NOT work. In the Partisan it will not function even in semi automatic. Buuuut the low mass carrier runs FRT's just fine. In fact if I put the low mass in the midlength upper I have to dial back the gas just a bit to get the ejection pattern back to normal. Putting them side by side showed me why, the regular carrier's rear sits with a nonsensical dip that the low mass just doesn't have, so the triggers safety bar will not engage fully as a result. I have tried emailing them directly a while back about this but so far no response yet. As a result my poor mans m38 knockoff upper build has to run an h3 to keep the reciprocating mass only 2oz lower than if using a full mass carrier. |
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