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11.5" Colt Commando upper on a Colt M4-marked lower. RAS II with a Aimpoint Pro in a Larue 152 mount.
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"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
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Originally Posted By Strela: 11.5" Colt Commando upper on a Colt M4-marked lower. RAS II with a Aimpoint Pro in a Larue 152 mount.
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Echo Company 2nd Battalion 9th Marines
India Company 3rd Battalion 8th Marines |
View Quote Cheers |
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Failure has far too many fathers. -MMB
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Tax stamp day! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/42121416414_338b322ce6_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/41938217735_1f8bd9b541_c.jpg Excellent work! I look forward to seeing the rifle after Marvin's works his magic on your barrel. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Still planning to pull the barrel off the Mod 2 Carbine and send it off to Marvin for dimpling, just haven't forced myself to do it yet. I'm not looking forward to being without it for a couple months since I'm having so much fun with it now. Here she is in desperate need of a cleaning after four months of ownership and 3500 rounds down the tube. https://s8.postimg.cc/3n0b6hqsl/20180616_113703.jpg https://s8.postimg.cc/t5snjk02t/20180616_113732.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
That carbon build up on the light View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Still planning to pull the barrel off the Mod 2 Carbine and send it off to Marvin for dimpling, just haven't forced myself to do it yet. I'm not looking forward to being without it for a couple months since I'm having so much fun with it now. Here she is in desperate need of a cleaning after four months of ownership and 3500 rounds down the tube. https://s8.postimg.cc/t5snjk02t/20180616_113732.jpg Attached File Attached File Attached File I had the light mounted further back, but the rearward facing ports on the MAMS covered the lens in carbon even worse, so I moved it forward one slot and it's actually better now that the front of the light is pushed out past some of those ports. As you can see, it gets the end of the rail pretty good, too. A little bit of Hoppe's on a rag makes the lens look new again after each outing. No biggie. |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Yup, it gets pretty nasty. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_211809-579161.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205717-579143.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205759-579145.JPG I had the light mounted further back, but the rearward facing ports on the MAMS covered the lens in carbon even worse, so I moved it forward one slot and it's actually better now that the front of the light is pushed out past some of those ports. As you can see, it gets the end of the rail pretty good, too. A little bit of Hoppe's on a rag makes the lens look new again after each outing. No biggie. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Still planning to pull the barrel off the Mod 2 Carbine and send it off to Marvin for dimpling, just haven't forced myself to do it yet. I'm not looking forward to being without it for a couple months since I'm having so much fun with it now. Here she is in desperate need of a cleaning after four months of ownership and 3500 rounds down the tube. https://s8.postimg.cc/5r89onqad/20180616_113703.jpg https://s8.postimg.cc/t5snjk02t/20180616_113732.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_211809-579161.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205717-579143.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205759-579145.JPG I had the light mounted further back, but the rearward facing ports on the MAMS covered the lens in carbon even worse, so I moved it forward one slot and it's actually better now that the front of the light is pushed out past some of those ports. As you can see, it gets the end of the rail pretty good, too. A little bit of Hoppe's on a rag makes the lens look new again after each outing. No biggie. |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ: Yup, it gets pretty nasty. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_211809-579161.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205717-579143.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/363550/20180617_205759-579145.JPG I had the light mounted further back, but the rearward facing ports on the MAMS covered the lens in carbon even worse, so I moved it forward one slot and it's actually better now that the front of the light is pushed out past some of those ports. As you can see, it gets the end of the rail pretty good, too. A little bit of Hoppe's on a rag makes the lens look new again after each outing. No biggie. View Quote |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
Originally Posted By DefenderAO: I run my light that close to my MAMS. A drop of oil on the lens before shooting makes cleanup easy View Quote Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
And that's how it's done. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ: Thanks, man. And beautiful SR-25! As I mentioned before, it'll be a while before I have pics up, but I will post them here. Can't wait, myself! View Quote His barrel work is a work of art. It'll be worth the wait. Originally Posted By 871JZ:
I had the light mounted further back, but the rearward facing ports on the MAMS covered the lens in carbon even worse, so I moved it forward one slot and it's actually better now that the front of the light is pushed out past some of those ports. As you can see, it gets the end of the rail pretty good, too. A little bit of Hoppe's on a rag makes the lens look new again after each outing. No biggie. View Quote |
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IG @CDYJR7
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Originally Posted By 871JZ: Thanks for the tip. I've heard that before, but haven't tried it. Used to use gritty toothpaste to clean it, but I ran out and can't remember what kind it was, so now I just use the Hoppe's. A drop of oil before going out sounds easier. I'll have to give it a shot. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-: Thank you! His barrel work is a work of art. It'll be worth the wait. What is your method for removing the carbon build up on the light + rail? View Quote As far as the rail, I'll probably use the Hoppe's that I use on the light lens because the carbon sticks to the rail's textured anodizing more than it does the smooth anodizing of the light body. It shouldn't hurt the rail's anodizing and it pulls the baked on carbon right off the lens, so it should do the same on the rail. I haven't tried yet, though, so we'll see. Aside from the light lens, nothing on the gun has been cleaned in the four months/3500+ rounds I've put through it. I'll clean it up good when I finally decide to pull the barrel and send it off to Marvin. Originally Posted By smartliketractor: Oil is good, but can seep into the rubber o-rings which may damage them. I've found that chapstick works better and doesn't make a runny mess. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
I received another stamp back today. SR-15 SBR CQB 11.5" https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1770/41986017755_1da142862a_c.jpg I will give the Hoppe's a try. Thanks for the suggestion! View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
I received another stamp back today. SR-15 SBR CQB 11.5" https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1770/41986017755_1da142862a_c.jpg I will give the Hoppe's a try. Thanks for the suggestion! View Quote |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Thanks for the tip. I've heard that before, but haven't tried it. Used to use gritty toothpaste to clean it, but I ran out and can't remember what kind it was, so now I just use the Hoppe's. A drop of oil before going out sounds easier. I'll have to give it a shot. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By DefenderAO: I run my light that close to my MAMS. A drop of oil on the lens before shooting makes cleanup easy Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
And that's how it's done. |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
I received another stamp back today. SR-15 SBR CQB 11.5" https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1770/41986017755_1da142862a_c.jpg I will give the Hoppe's a try. Thanks for the suggestion! View Quote |
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Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
Yeah just make sure the oil spreads across the entire bezel. Piece of cake to clean at the end View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By DefenderAO: I run my light that close to my MAMS. A drop of oil on the lens before shooting makes cleanup easy Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
And that's how it's done. |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
Originally Posted By Cartel-:
I received another stamp back today. SR-15 SBR CQB 11.5" https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1770/41986017755_1da142862a_c.jpg I will give the Hoppe's a try. Thanks for the suggestion! View Quote Cheers |
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Failure has far too many fathers. -MMB
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
I've never tried it, but I've heard a pencil eraser will take it right off. I've always just used the Slip 2000 cleaner, let it so a bit then wipe it right off. View Quote Attached File Are you using the Slip Carbon Killer? Maybe it would be better for me to try this instead of my Hoppe's/Q-tip method. |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Two Stamp Tuesday x3 https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/42898599141_f803501785_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29027405548_861cd086ce_c.jpg Thank you! I wish Monday's were always this good. Thank you! It is nice to finally piece together my rifles after waiting 6-12 months on paperwork to clear. It is worth the wait.! When did your paperwork go pending? Thank you! View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Two Stamp Tuesday x3 https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/42898599141_f803501785_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29027405548_861cd086ce_c.jpg Thank you! I wish Monday's were always this good. Thank you! It is nice to finally piece together my rifles after waiting 6-12 months on paperwork to clear. It is worth the wait.! When did your paperwork go pending? Thank you! View Quote |
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- Selling left nut for a Wilcox NF T1/MRDS mount.
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Two Stamp Tuesday x3 https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/42898599141_f803501785_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29027405548_861cd086ce_c.jpg Thank you! I wish Monday's were always this good. Thank you! It is nice to finally piece together my rifles after waiting 6-12 months on paperwork to clear. It is worth the wait.! When did your paperwork go pending? Thank you! View Quote |
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-Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. - Lamb of God- Omerta
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Originally Posted By s2gotz: Never had a rail get dirty like that from carbon. But these make cleaning my lights super easy. I use this at work. https://m.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1CG47_AS01?$smmain$ View Quote Are they impregnated with an abrasive like a hand cleaner with pumice? I'm wondering if they'd work for removing the thick/baked on carbon or just the light stuff. Sometimes I'll run through 500-600 rounds in a day and the carbon gets baked on layer after layer and adheres to the glass like you wouldn't believe. If they are impregnated with an abrasive, my only concern would be whether or not it would scratch the lens. I scratched the hell out of one of mine before and had to use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and glass polishing compound to remove the scratches. Surefire's glass lenses seem to be excellent at impact resistance, but they must also be somewhat soft because what I was using to clean it was not very coarse and it scratched easily, which surprised me. |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
@s2gotz Are they impregnated with an abrasive like a hand cleaner with pumice? I'm wondering if they'd work for removing the thick/baked on carbon or just the light stuff. Sometimes I'll run through 500-600 rounds in a day and the carbon gets baked on layer after layer and adheres to the glass like you wouldn't believe. If they are impregnated with an abrasive, my only concern would be whether or not it would scratch the lens. I scratched the hell out of one of mine before and had to use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and glass polishing compound to remove the scratches. Surefire's glass lenses seem to be excellent at impact resistance, but they must also be somewhat soft because what I was using to clean it was not very coarse and it scratched easily, which surprised me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By s2gotz: Never had a rail get dirty like that from carbon. But these make cleaning my lights super easy. I use this at work. https://m.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1CG47_AS01?$smmain$ Are they impregnated with an abrasive like a hand cleaner with pumice? I'm wondering if they'd work for removing the thick/baked on carbon or just the light stuff. Sometimes I'll run through 500-600 rounds in a day and the carbon gets baked on layer after layer and adheres to the glass like you wouldn't believe. If they are impregnated with an abrasive, my only concern would be whether or not it would scratch the lens. I scratched the hell out of one of mine before and had to use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and glass polishing compound to remove the scratches. Surefire's glass lenses seem to be excellent at impact resistance, but they must also be somewhat soft because what I was using to clean it was not very coarse and it scratched easily, which surprised me. Yes they have a blue abrasive webbing woven into the fabric of the wipe. Works like the gritty toothpaste mentioned earlier. Both my scout light and x300ub get pretty dirty after a while and these scrubs clean them off pretty quick. Never had an issue with scratches. |
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Originally Posted By s2gotz:
@871JZ Yes they have a blue abrasive webbing woven into the fabric of the wipe. Works like the gritty toothpaste mentioned earlier. Both my scout light and x300ub get pretty dirty after a while and these scrubs clean them off pretty quick. Never had an issue with scratches. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By s2gotz:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By s2gotz: Never had a rail get dirty like that from carbon. But these make cleaning my lights super easy. I use this at work. https://m.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1CG47_AS01?$smmain$ Are they impregnated with an abrasive like a hand cleaner with pumice? I'm wondering if they'd work for removing the thick/baked on carbon or just the light stuff. Sometimes I'll run through 500-600 rounds in a day and the carbon gets baked on layer after layer and adheres to the glass like you wouldn't believe. If they are impregnated with an abrasive, my only concern would be whether or not it would scratch the lens. I scratched the hell out of one of mine before and had to use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and glass polishing compound to remove the scratches. Surefire's glass lenses seem to be excellent at impact resistance, but they must also be somewhat soft because what I was using to clean it was not very coarse and it scratched easily, which surprised me. Yes they have a blue abrasive webbing woven into the fabric of the wipe. Works like the gritty toothpaste mentioned earlier. Both my scout light and x300ub get pretty dirty after a while and these scrubs clean them off pretty quick. Never had an issue with scratches. |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Interesting. Maybe I'll give them a try. Thanks! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By s2gotz:
Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Originally Posted By s2gotz: Never had a rail get dirty like that from carbon. But these make cleaning my lights super easy. I use this at work. https://m.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1CG47_AS01?$smmain$ Are they impregnated with an abrasive like a hand cleaner with pumice? I'm wondering if they'd work for removing the thick/baked on carbon or just the light stuff. Sometimes I'll run through 500-600 rounds in a day and the carbon gets baked on layer after layer and adheres to the glass like you wouldn't believe. If they are impregnated with an abrasive, my only concern would be whether or not it would scratch the lens. I scratched the hell out of one of mine before and had to use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and glass polishing compound to remove the scratches. Surefire's glass lenses seem to be excellent at impact resistance, but they must also be somewhat soft because what I was using to clean it was not very coarse and it scratched easily, which surprised me. Yes they have a blue abrasive webbing woven into the fabric of the wipe. Works like the gritty toothpaste mentioned earlier. Both my scout light and x300ub get pretty dirty after a while and these scrubs clean them off pretty quick. Never had an issue with scratches. This is before. Attached File Attached File This is after. Attached File Attached File ETA: Just to keep it relevant. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By s2gotz: Actually I went to the range all day Sunday. Not that my x300 got real dirty but I haven’t cleaned it since, and I don’t use oils or chapsticks. This is before. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/C9FAC99B-1E50-45F7-90DA-3DF2C3B4C995-581240.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/4E04EC57-9AC1-458E-9BA5-BA55CEFB74A0-581244.JPG This is after.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/F2C1D282-8509-4122-8885-9DF16ACB6EB3-581246.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/58B8FADC-1E06-4CC5-A99D-D08CCB2E53DF-581247.JPG View Quote |
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- Selling left nut for a Wilcox NF T1/MRDS mount.
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Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Two Stamp Tuesday x3 https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/42898599141_f803501785_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29027405548_861cd086ce_c.jpg Thank you! I wish Monday's were always this good. Thank you! It is nice to finally piece together my rifles after waiting 6-12 months on paperwork to clear. It is worth the wait.! When did your paperwork go pending? Thank you! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Cartel-:
Two Stamp Tuesday x3 https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/42898599141_f803501785_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29027405548_861cd086ce_c.jpg Originally Posted By 871JZ: No problem and congrats on the stamps coming in. Always makes for a good day. I wish Monday's were always this good. Originally Posted By Outrider: You’ve been on a nice roll here lately. I’ve enjoyed seeing all the goodies roll in. It is nice to finally piece together my rifles after waiting 6-12 months on paperwork to clear. Originally Posted By smartliketractor: Nice! I'm seriously jealous since I'm waiting on a 11.5" Mod 2 that is in the NICS black hole. Originally Posted By buddyhoohaw:
Dang. You gives me muffler envy!! Cheers |
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Originally Posted By allensaldi: Where are you guys purchasing these? Walmart? Autozone? View Quote I use something pretty much the same https://www.frenchgerleman.com/818673/Product/Ideal-Industries38-500 |
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Originally Posted By allensaldi:
Where are you guys purchasing these? Walmart? Autozone? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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- Selling left nut for a Wilcox NF T1/MRDS mount.
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Has anyone tried the Tub O Towels? I can't find the Scrubs anywhere locally.
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Originally Posted By ek_cruiser_316:
So I've been tossing around the idea of swapping out my 3.1 for the URX 4 in MLOK. How much of a difference in diameter is there and how much of a pain is it to remove the 3.1? OG pic when I first picked this up. http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh512/davidj316ek/20180621_075748_zpszysvsutc.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Outrider: You need a URX barrel nut wrench and ideally a set of picatinny jaws to hold the upper in place. Loctite is often used on the barrel nut so a heat gun/torch also helps. It's a decent investment for the tools if you don't have them so you may want to consider sending it off to somebody for the work to be done. IMO I like the 3.1 over the URX 4 anyway. View Quote I have decided since I have to tools to use this rail whenever I can justify the cost |
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-Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. - Lamb of God- Omerta
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Originally Posted By s2gotz: Actually I went to the range all day Sunday. Not that my x300 got real dirty but I haven’t cleaned it since, and I don’t use oils or chapsticks. This is before. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/C9FAC99B-1E50-45F7-90DA-3DF2C3B4C995-581240.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/4E04EC57-9AC1-458E-9BA5-BA55CEFB74A0-581244.JPG This is after.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/F2C1D282-8509-4122-8885-9DF16ACB6EB3-581246.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/58B8FADC-1E06-4CC5-A99D-D08CCB2E53DF-581247.JPG ETA: Just to keep it relevant. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/373475/09EA9F77-C45F-4914-A44C-F42EDDD3C584-581267.JPG View Quote Originally Posted By ek_cruiser_316:
So I've been tossing around the idea of swapping out my 3.1 for the URX 4 in MLOK. How much of a difference in diameter is there and how much of a pain is it to remove the 3.1? OG pic when I first picked this up. http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh512/davidj316ek/20180621_075748_zpszysvsutc.jpg View Quote As far as tools required, you'll need a URX wrench to remove the 3.1, possibly a torch to help break the bond between the barrel nut and the upper if AAC used any, and allen wrench, and a URX4 wrench which is included with the rail. You'll also need a vice and upper vice blocks or pic jaws as Outrider mentioned. |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ: Damn, they did a great job cleaning it up! Although the URX3.1 an excellent handguard, and is also aesthetically more pleasing, I prefer the URX4 MLOK during actual use. It's a tiny bit lighter, but more importantly, it has a more ergonomic profile, IMO. I think you'll be happy with the swap if you do it, but I would keep the 3.1 just in case. You may not like the URX4 or you may want to install the 3.1 on another upper. As far as tools required, you'll need a URX wrench to remove the 3.1, possibly a torch to help break the bond between the barrel nut and the upper if AAC used any, and allen wrench, and a URX4 wrench which is included with the rail. You'll also need a vice and upper vice blocks or pic jaws as Outrider mentioned. View Quote |
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-Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. - Lamb of God- Omerta
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Originally Posted By 871JZ: Three little beauties! View Quote Originally Posted By eMc9001: Good lord that's beautiful. You need a little URX4 in your life though! View Quote Originally Posted By Shrockster: So jealous... If I every want one of the two bottom rifles I am gonna have to spend way too much View Quote Originally Posted By DefenderAO:
10/10 View Quote |
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IG @CDYJR7
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Originally Posted By Leonitus:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455572/9E8AC77D-B87C-4D13-B0FC-40DA92BB8222-584143.jpg View Quote is that a full custom job or are there stencils available |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
that's awesome is that a full custom job or are there stencils available View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By Leonitus:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455572/9E8AC77D-B87C-4D13-B0FC-40DA92BB8222-584143.jpg is that a full custom job or are there stencils available |
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Without blood, it doesn't count!
"A gun, like any other source of power, is a force for good or evil, being neither in itself, but dependent upon those who possess it." |
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