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Posted: 7/4/2026 2:18:33 PM EDT
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I finally got around to putting the mars 10/22 frt in my gun today. The issue I have is pulling the trigger won’t drop the hammer. I just hear a light click. I can get the hammer to drop by using a punch to push the leg of the sear. All parts are installed correctly and hammer spring was changed. Thanks for any insight |
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I will get you a photo. I just put everything back in my safe. Picture the trigger pack with only the trigger group, the hammer and hammer spring installed. You can take a punch and go in front of the cocked hammer and hit the leg of the sear where it contacts the safety. That will release the hammer forward if the safety is on fire. If I pull the trigger with the safety on fire I just get a click. |
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| Mine did the same. Had to adjust the little screw on the trigger to get it to fire. Mine still isn’t reliable like Plinksters runs. Runs fast, runs then quits, still dead trigger at times, single shot then dead trigger. It’s not a very well made trigger system. And I’m a fairly good gunsmiths tinker. Save your money. I’d grade it a D. |
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Your safety came out on install? Mine did and I had the same issue. You’ll need to grab the button with a pair of needle nose pliers and rotate it till it’s in the correct geometry. I had to hold my mouth right for a bit to get it to work. Also, did you leave the bolt catch in? If so go back and remove it. It gets in the way. |
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These are ten, 15 and 25 rd mags. It’s definitely not 100% but 75% of the time it’s good to go The other 25% I get one dead hammer per mag.  May 8, 2026 |
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Originally Posted By HKH: These are ten, 15 and 25 rd mags. It’s definitely not 100% but 75% of the time it’s good to go The other 25% I get one dead hammer per mag.  https://www.youtube.com/shorts/C7-MlS2v404what, if anything, are you doing to mitigate or eliminate bolt bounce? |
Nothing to be done is there? I installed that lightweight volq bolt thinking it would help but it’s not, I may switch back to the Ruger one and just polish that bottom angle and do the mag upgrade the member here detailed out. That’s about all you can do that I know of, but I’m not the 10/22 expert by any means. I’m also going to a 5” barrel so all bulk pack is subsonic. Standard velocity hasn’t been too reliable lately. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: Nothing to be done is there? I installed that lightweight volq bolt thinking it would help but it’s not, I may switch back to the Ruger one and just polish that bottom angle and do the mag upgrade the member here detailed out. That’s about all you can do that I know of, but I’m not the 10/22 expert by any means. I’m also going to a 5” barrel so all bulk pack is subsonic. Standard velocity hasn’t been too reliable lately. Wonder if a nylon bolt stop would help any. Need to make a trip to the hardware store for some nylon bolts to cut and make a stop. Mine's made it through a mag and a half so far. Started one and done again after a full mag last time out. |
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Originally Posted By HammerTech: Wonder if a nylon bolt stop would help any. Need to make a trip to the hardware store for some nylon bolts to cut and make a stop. Mine's made it through a mag and a half so far. Started one and done again after a full mag last time out. Isn’t that the thing you knock out of the rear of receiver when you tear it down? Or are you talking about doing something else? I’m curious for sure |
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Originally Posted By HKH: Isn’t that the thing you knock out of the rear of receiver when you tear it down? Or are you talking about doing something else? I’m curious for sure Yes, the rear pin you remove to take the bolt out. It's there to keep the bolt from hammering the aluminium housing. Nylon is supposed to lessen the shock of the bolt coming back. There are commercial versions available or you can make your own out of a 1/4 nylon bolt. Get one long enough so the smooth part goes all the way across the receiver. Worth a try. |
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Originally Posted By HammerTech: Yes, the rear pin you remove to take the bolt out. It's there to keep the bolt from hammering the aluminium housing. Nylon is supposed to lessen the shock of the bolt coming back. There are commercial versions available or you can make your own out of a 1/4 nylon bolt. Get one long enough so the smooth part goes all the way across the receiver. Worth a try. Bummer, I’ve got one it’s sort of rubbery- I assume nylon? |
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Originally Posted By HKH: Bummer, I’ve got one it’s sort of rubbery- I assume nylon? Probably. There are a few different materials available. The factory one is steel. Sigh. Back to polishing and tweaking. The one time it ran a full 25 Rd mag was glorious though. |
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I got mine to work when cycling by hand. I ordered a used plastic trigger housing off eBay and just installed my mars. (not a BX trigger housing). The safety works and the hammer falls off safety. I can’t wait to take it out and test it. It cycles fine manually. I have a nylon bolt buffer in my gun. I have had it in there for years FWIW. |
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I have mine running great with a Volquartsen firefly bolt and a 10% over Kidd spring. Will run 10rd, 25 and drums. But I did have to mess with the grub screw for a bit to get it to run. Also make sure the transfer bar is not getting wedged between the hammer and the housing. I clearanced the bottom of mine (as described in the video from Mars) to where nothing is touching anything. I also case hardened the face of the transfer bar. Once you have it setup it runs nice, but finicky to get running. |
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Originally Posted By PKN06002: I have mine running great with a Volquartsen Firefly bolt and a 10% over Kidd spring. Will run 10rd, 25 and drums. But I did have to mess with the grub screw for a bit to get it to run. Also make sure the transfer bar is not getting wedged between the hammer and the housing. I clearanced the bottom of mine (as described in the video from Mars) to where nothing is touching anything. I also case hardened the face of the transfer bar. Once you have it set up, it runs nice, but finicky to get running. @PKN06002, what exactly is the Grub Screw to which you refer? Do you have to be mindful of how hard you pull the trigger? |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: @PKN06002, what exactly is the Grub Screw to which you refer? Do you have to be mindful of how hard you pull the trigger? Grub screw is on the bottom of the trigger, they used a silver one so it blends in. To get mine to work I use it like the FRT on my Vector, I press mostly on the side of the trigger not the front. You just need enough pressure to drop the hammer. |
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What does the grub screw actually adjust? You said a Firefly bolt with an over/stronger spring? In their install video Mars said they provide a lighter than OEM spring. Wonder why the Firefly would need a stronger spring? From my understanding the Firefly also comes with the lighter/lower spring installed. |
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Originally Posted By vman217: What does the grub screw actually adjust? Originally Posted By vman217: What does the grub screw actually adjust? It seems to support the sear so it can release the hammer. You said a Firefly bolt with an over/stronger spring? In their install video Mars said they provide a lighter than OEM spring. Wonder why the Firefly would need a stronger spring? From my understanding the Firefly also comes with the lighter/lower spring installed. The firefly bolt is like 3oz and I wanted to slow it down, since using an aluminum bolt with this seems to be way outside the design specs of that bolt. So that was a personal choice. I have a kidd bolt that I cannot get to work with any spring rate and I have multiple springs that are lighter than OEM. I do have a CST bolt that is in the 5oz range on order that is made out of stainless I am hoping I can get that to work. |
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Originally Posted By HammerTech: Wonder if a nylon bolt stop would help any. Need to make a trip to the hardware store for some nylon bolts to cut and make a stop. Mine's made it through a mag and a half so far. Started one and done again after a full mag last time out. It does not. |
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I finally got around this evening to putting it together. So far everything functions well and dry-firing works properly, but the actual test-firing will be this weekend; I will use CCI Mini-Mags, and I'm sure I'll need to tune springs and/or polish some moving parts |
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I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page a day ago so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page a day ago so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. Awesome!! Which gun did you install it in and barrel length? |
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Originally Posted By HKH: Awesome!! Which gun did you install it in and barrel length? Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By hrt4me: I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page a day ago so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. Awesome!! Which gun did you install it in and barrel length? I used a Fletcher 11-22 open-top receiver and a 16" barrel. I did not even use the lighter recoil spring, although I did install the lighter (oem minus one coil) hammer spring. The RoF is nice and relatively slow, especially for a .22lr (my Norrell 10/22 is several hundred rpm faster!). My AR-15/22 with Bore Buddy conversion kit and HTSS is much faster as well... |
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Fletcher Rifleworks 11/22 open-top receiver with top cover unlocked and slid back: Attached File top cover removed, revealing the charging handle and bolt, which can easily be removed from the top without having to fully disassemble the carbine by removing the barreled action from the stock: Attached File this feature is a huge benefit for fast RoF .22LR due to how inherently dirty the rimfire round is, thus I have this receiver for both my transferable Norrell 10/22 and now for this Mars FRT |
 NOT YOUR GRANDAD'S 10/22 - FLETCHER 11/22 |
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I got to try my trigger out yesterday and I am half way there. 1st 2 magazines had 30 rounds in them and I was getting singles and doubles until I got to around 20 rounds and then it dumped the mag both times. On the 3rd mag it started dropping cases on top of the mag. I am going to replace my ejector and extractor before I start trimming the recoil spring. If the bolt is not stripping rounds from a full magazine then trimming the recoil spring will make it worse. Thoughts? |
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Originally Posted By emrisg: I got to try my trigger out yesterday and I am half way there. 1st 2 magazines had 30 rounds in them and I was getting singles and doubles until I got to around 20 rounds and then it dumped the mag both times. On the 3rd mag it started dropping cases on top of the mag. I am going to replace my ejector and extractor before I start trimming the recoil spring. If the bolt is not stripping rounds from a full magazine then trimming the recoil spring will make it worse. Thoughts? how did that work out for you? |
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