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So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
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Originally Posted By VIP3R:
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2? View Quote If so, it would probably be H2 if these are ever issued. If not, I'm a proponent of using the heaviest buffer possible. I use A5H4s (which won't work in a 10.3" with .070" gas port and .223) in all of my rifles. |
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We are not citizens, We are suspects.
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Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
That means it transferred (if everyone is doing things correctly) as a rifle = can't ever be a pistol. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
Originally Posted By splbass17:
Just posted this in "AR pistols", but real quick, you guys seem to be the most knowledgeable group here. If you don't mind me asking 2x I have a fresh LMT defender lower, complete with the buttstock. Lower only, never part of a rifle. I am going to put the URGI upper on the LMT lower and swap the buttstock with a brace. Can I use the rifle buffer that's on it currently? I see adjustable braces marketed lately, although I thought you have to use a smooth buffer tube for a pistol brace build. I'm confused about the laws on buffer tubes for pistols. It is only after being assembled to a barreled upper that something can be classified a rifle (or pistol or "firearm"). Any lower without an assembly history (or one first assembled as a pistol) can be used as a pistol. Just remove the buttstock and build. ETA: I should add the caveat that some manufacturers log things in an odd way, and some potentially test fire their complete lowers at the factory (and that can throw a wrench into the works). Unfortunately, you can't rely on just what you see or what is put on the 4473 if you want to follow the letter of the law. So, it's always a good idea to verify with the manufacturer what a particular lower was logged as and if it has any assembly history before building a pistol. Finding someone with the ability to answer those questions accurately might be another hurdle; the average rep answering the phones most likely doesn't have a clue, heh. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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These will be going on an M4A1 lower when/ if issued. Which is automatic H2 buffer
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I apologize in advance
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I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. View Quote Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case |
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I apologize in advance
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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Originally Posted By krdt:
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up. That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. But such is life. |
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I apologize in advance
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it But such is life. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. But such is life. I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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Originally Posted By krdt:
Oh, I'm sure it ain't pretty, lol. I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. But such is life. I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case. |
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I apologize in advance
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Yeah I wouldn't worry about it. If it was me I would run the H3 and shoot it until it keyholes, replace bolt/barrel, maybe gas block/gas tube if necessary. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3. Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly. But such is life. I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case. I just gotta make sure I catch it before it keyholes with a can on it, lol. |
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms
Thomas Jefferson If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so. - Thomas Jefferson |
De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15&16' Afganistan: 09,10,11',14',17' & 18' |
Anyone know anything about 1-8 LVPOs being used on URG-Is? I heard a certain company won the SOCOM contract recently.
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Geissele 10.3'' URGI First Shots Full "first shots" 10.3'' URGI upper drops either this week or next This will have to do for now! |
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Originally Posted By 871JZ:
Is anyone else's 13.5" MK16 NSN marked? My DDC 13.5" MK16 has the subdued Geissele Automatics marking on the right side of the rail, but on the left side has a very small part number in white lettering. The green 13.5" MK16 just came in and its rollmarked with NSN and the number on the right side, along with the same Geissele Automatics that's on my DDC one on the right side. I wouldn't think the non DDC rails would be NSN marked since they shouldn't even have an NSN. I can say that the green anodizing is beautiful. I'll post pics of the complete rail and ACH in a bit. View Quote As such, they mean literally nothing with respect to issue: many issue items don't have NSNs; many non-issue items do. |
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"I'll tell you what war is about, you've got to kill people, and when you've killed enough they stop fighting." GEN Curtis LeMay
"Someday this war's gonna end..." LTC William Kilgore |
Originally Posted By Skrapmetal: Should be the same as this, except the tools. T30 wrench. https://d524kaacpo0h1.cloudfront.net/media/files/SMR_MK14_M-LOK_Instructions.pdf View Quote edit: I should have poked around a bit more, found these just now: https://geissele.com/installation-guides Nothing specific to the MK16 rail but I'm sure torque specs are same for cross bolts when compared to the MK14 rail. |
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Originally Posted By Mrgunsngear:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9J3TbUu-zYQ Full "first shots" 10.3'' URGI upper drops either this week or next This will have to do for now! View Quote Must be hard keeping a lid on this stuff with all the discussions going on.... |
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Where do you get the FDE anodized uppers?
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I was mostly just concerned about what was the appropriate buffer to run properly.
I started seeing the H3 buffer thing then i was like...errr |
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Originally Posted By VIP3R:
I was mostly just concerned about what was the appropriate buffer to run properly. I started seeing the H3 buffer thing then i was like...errr View Quote |
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I apologize in advance
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I've fired 360 rounds so far, 150 suppressed, with zero malfunctions, through my 10.3" URG-I. The included buffer and braided spring seem to work well with or without the can. I need to compare the Geissele Airborne Charging Handle with the PRI Gas-buster; the gas can get noticeable in multi-shot strings but hasn't been debilitating. I'm very pleased so far - the upper appears accurate, well built, and reliable.
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We are not citizens, We are suspects.
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Originally Posted By Spooled:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/297824/6F5A3679-1622-4056-B15A-EF315B5B9F6F_jpeg-762192.JPG View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Spooled:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/297824/6F5A3679-1622-4056-B15A-EF315B5B9F6F_jpeg-762192.JPG View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Spooled:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/297824/6F5A3679-1622-4056-B15A-EF315B5B9F6F_jpeg-762192.JPG View Quote |
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I apologize in advance
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Originally Posted By Spooled:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/297824/6F5A3679-1622-4056-B15A-EF315B5B9F6F_jpeg-762192.JPG View Quote |
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#JusticeforFelipe
#PoultrylivesMatter |
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I apologize in advance
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A few pages back there was some back and forth about Rocksett which all started with a failed attempt at removing a SF 4P in a rather unorthodox manner using Vice-Grips. I broke down my 14.5 today to swap the GB and thought I would share the experience here.
First off; the upper was assembled with great care and precision. I would expect nothing less from everything else I have seen and bought from Geissele. There are no wrench slip marks, blown out fasteners, all the roll pins are perfectly set and then marked with white paint. The barrel nut and 4P must have been put on by magic because there are no visible tool marks anywhere. The thread locker was perfectly applied and the 4P perfectly timed with a super cool alloy washer (and shims) that has a chamfered ID to clear the concave shoulder where the barrel transitions to the threaded section. Super cool design feature: the cross bolts are locked into the rail with a spring detent that snaps into a reduced diameter groove when extracted and prevents them from being separated from the rail itself. The corresponding threaded block also deforms the pocket a bit so it doesn't fall out. Loosen the cross bolts and slide them out until you hear the detent snap into the groove. The two small internal hex set screws (that center/stabilize the rail on the upper) must be backed out more than you think to clear the round barrel nut. When everything is loose you can pull and rotate the rail a bit until it come free. Its a nice tight fit. The set screws have a locking compound on them but the torque was fairly low. From previous suggestions I soaked the end of the barrel in a bucket of warm water to accelerate softening of the Rocksett for probably 40 minutes. Just for kicks I figured I would try it first before applying any heat, a technique I use often. With the upper in a Magpul BEV block and locked into my bench vise I carefully wiggled on my Magpul Armorer's Wrench (its a tight fit) and gave it a twist. Surprisingly the 4P came off with moderate effort. If I had to guess using my calibrated forearms, I'd say it was about 25-30 ft lbs ;-) The GB set screws actually required more effort than I expected. Using a torch I heated up the GB to probably 180+ degrees F. One came loose fairly easy, the other required more heat and even twisted the hex key a bit (its a cheapy Husky T handle from Home Depot). The screws have a decent amount of locking agent on them which makes sense considering the application. I was a little worried about stripping these so if you need to remove yours - go for the heat! Just waiting for my BFS order to ship from the G man so I can get the G block installed and put things back together. I know we've discussed weights here but the more I handle this upper the lighter it feels. Maybe its the slim profile of the rail and the gov profile barrel that contribute to it but i can't wait to mate it up with a lower and get it on the range! |
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Originally Posted By delta_romeo_echo:
A few pages back there was some back and forth about Rocksett which all started with a failed attempt at removing a SF 4P in a rather unorthodox manner using Vice-Grips. I broke down my 14.5 today to swap the GB and thought I would share the experience here. First off; the upper was assembled with great care and precision. I would expect nothing less from everything else I have seen and bought from Geissele. There are no wrench slip marks, blown out fasteners, all the roll pins are perfectly set and then marked with white paint. The barrel nut and 4P must have been put on by magic because there are no visible tool marks anywhere. The thread locker was perfectly applied and the 4P perfectly timed with a super cool alloy washer (and shims) that has a chamfered ID to clear the concave shoulder where the barrel transitions to the threaded section. Super cool design feature: the cross bolts are locked into the rail with a spring detent that snaps into a reduced diameter groove when extracted and prevents them from being separated from the rail itself. The corresponding threaded block also deforms the pocket a bit so it doesn't fall out. Loosen the cross bolts and slide them out until you hear the detent snap into the groove. The two small internal hex set screws (that center/stabilize the rail on the upper) must be backed out more than you think to clear the round barrel nut. When everything is loose you can pull and rotate the rail a bit until it come free. Its a nice tight fit. The set screws have a locking compound on them but the torque was fairly low. From previous suggestions I soaked the end of the barrel in a bucket of warm water to accelerate softening of the Rocksett for probably 40 minutes. Just for kicks I figured I would try it first before applying any heat, a technique I use often. With the upper in a Magpul BEV block and locked into my bench vise I carefully wiggled on my Magpul Armorer's Wrench (its a tight fit) and gave it a twist. Surprisingly the 4P came off with moderate effort. If I had to guess using my calibrated forearms, I'd say it was about 25-30 ft lbs ;-) The GB set screws actually required more effort than I expected. Using a torch I heated up the GB to probably 180+ degrees F. One came loose fairly easy, the other required more heat and even twisted the hex key a bit (its a cheapy Husky T handle from Home Depot). The screws have a decent amount of locking agent on them which makes sense considering the application. I was a little worried about stripping these so if you need to remove yours - go for the heat! Just waiting for my BFS order to ship from the G man so I can get the G block installed and put things back together. I know we've discussed weights here but the more I handle this upper the lighter it feels. Maybe its the slim profile of the rail and the gov profile barrel that contribute to it but i can't wait to mate it up with a lower and get it on the range! View Quote Maybe not everyone sees eye to eye on this but soaking rocksett to solulate it is IMO, better than just relying on brute force. Heat + water = probably the smartest and safest method of removal |
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I apologize in advance
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Originally Posted By Spooled:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/297824/6F5A3679-1622-4056-B15A-EF315B5B9F6F_jpeg-762192.JPG View Quote |
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Originally Posted By TEXASGUNGUY022003:
Quick question (non-clone). If one were to go 16" on the barrel with an ops inc collar...would the AEM5 clear the rail? View Quote |
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Originally Posted By nhojyelbom:
Not sure if i should keep the atacr on here permanent or go back to tanodized acog http://i.imgur.com/RdLuN1Y.jpg View Quote |
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I've got 2 Golden tickets I can't use because I'm in Kalifornia.
If you are actually going to use it, first 2 people to PM can have them. PLEASE only request it if you know you are going to actually use one. Edit: I will pm you the code, and mail the coupon since you will need it to redeem for the RC-DE EDIT: GONE |
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Originally Posted By krdt:
I would think it safe to assume any current Block II optic could conceivably end up on a URGI. So, the EXPS3-0/SU-231A would be one. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By IceAuger:
Which EOTech models currently in the USASOC supply chain could possibly transition to the URG-I, or has this thread devolved into a clone be damned discussion and anything goes at this point? |
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"I'll tell you what war is about, you've got to kill people, and when you've killed enough they stop fighting." GEN Curtis LeMay
"Someday this war's gonna end..." LTC William Kilgore |
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Precisely why I decided against green at one split moment when I looked into a tree line and the reticle blended in way more than red did. I like Amber too, like the tritium on the TA01NSN and some of the RMR's. Amber works well for me. Red works well for me. Green only did against not green backgrounds. Problem is other than ocean, most of this planet is green too. View Quote The only thing almost everyone agrees on: amber (ACOG) is the worst. |
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"I'll tell you what war is about, you've got to kill people, and when you've killed enough they stop fighting." GEN Curtis LeMay
"Someday this war's gonna end..." LTC William Kilgore |
Originally Posted By splbass17:
Got my URG-I, 10.3 "near clone" upper today. It came with an H3 buffer and spring. I thought Geissele was shipping as H1 and you could add tungsten weights, as needed, with seperate purchase? Maybe they are trying to hook us up, with the extra weights included? Or I wonder if H3 is ideal for the 10.3? View Quote |
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"I'll tell you what war is about, you've got to kill people, and when you've killed enough they stop fighting." GEN Curtis LeMay
"Someday this war's gonna end..." LTC William Kilgore |
Posted by accident meant to send a PM
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Originally Posted By tonyxcom:
I've got 2 Golden tickets I can't use because I'm in Kalifornia. If you are actually going to use it, first 2 people to PM can have them. PLEASE only request it if you know you are going to actually use one. Edit: I will pm you the code, and mail the coupon since you will need it to redeem for the RC-DE EDIT: GONE View Quote |
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Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
You and I are the only two ARFCOMers who seem to think this...it comes up in every "which color" thread; I gave up giving my opinon. The only thing almost everyone agrees on: amber (ACOG) is the worst. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Precisely why I decided against green at one split moment when I looked into a tree line and the reticle blended in way more than red did. I like Amber too, like the tritium on the TA01NSN and some of the RMR's. Amber works well for me. Red works well for me. Green only did against not green backgrounds. Problem is other than ocean, most of this planet is green too. The only thing almost everyone agrees on: amber (ACOG) is the worst. |
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Anyone running colt socom barrels on their 14.5?
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Speaking of golden tickets, has anyone redeemed theirs yet?
How was the process? |
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Hey there demons,its me, ya 🄱oy
It's a joke, it's all a joke. Mother forgive me. Teener Crew For Life |
Originally Posted By WTFShane: CQBR URGI? View Quote Related, bad-ish news: I found out the hard way, just playing around with my NX8 yesterday that when illuminated, it's apparently not much more forgiving than an EOTech on anything but near max magnification, as far as my astigmatism is concerned. It looks like a sideways infinity symbol to me. This was bare eyes, no glasses (I only wear for distance, for now). |
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A lot of my time on this planet has been simply for survival. But at the Cola War, I am living. Tweeter
"You chug, and that's all I need to know." NoloContendere / p2tharizo Arfbortion 2016 Survivor |
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