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Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 5 of 11)
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My 20” upper runs well with the Remington Golden Bullet ammo too. My 16” runs pretty well with the blue box Federal that is lighter loaded but I have to keep the upper clean. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I’ll just STFU and let you work it out.  Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Yes, I know. That wasn't my point. My reset is consistent. My point was that the Atrius/Rave 140 combo has the Atrius snapping forward at a certain point, like it's spring loaded. This happens whether there's pressure on the trigger or not. I’ll just STFU and let you work it out. Sorry, not trying to be snarky. I'm open to any help I can get. I thought I did a poor job communicating the specific differences I was observing between the Atrius/Rave 140 combo and a shimmed Hoffman-style SS. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Man that sucks. I totally feel your pain with the time, frustration and money. I am also really discouraged that your atrius and rave 140 is not working, as I have my rave 140 but still waiting on my atrius to arrive. That was going to be my last attempt to get mine running, as it was "certified" to work by BB. I fear if you try the partisan it will not do any better. I never had any luck trying to get my RB working, and it is very similar to the partisan. I've also reached out to BB for help, but they're out-of-office until Jan 5. I think I had a bit of a breakthrough, though. I tried screwing the sled timing screw all the way back in (zero turns out), but that didn't seem to help or hurt. Hammer reset during function checking was still fine. I also still had my 4 lb recoil spring and my light firing pin spring. Then, I increased my bolt weight by going with all steel weights (up from two small steel, two large aluminum) in my steel weight carrier. My round count seemed to increase slightly with my CCI 40 grs (both subsonic segmented HPs, prod. no. 74 and mini-mag segmented HPs, prod. no. 36CC). To my complete surprise, I was then able to do a complete 25 rd mag dump with CCI 36 gr HPs (prod. no. 962). LRBHO even worked. I was also able to do another 20-ish rd mag dump with CCI 40 gr polymer-coated "Clean-22" ammo (prod. no. 944CC), which was weird, because normally those rounds typically gave me more trouble than the other CCI 40 gr rounds I have. I will note, however, that the first two rounds in that mag were some older 38 gr SB22B (which Sellier & Bellot doesn't make anymore). |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: I wouldn't worry too much about it. I haven't seen that graphic before. My guess is they added it to signal that they really do have them in stock due to prior confusion. I wouldn't be surprised if yours ships within days. Hey, at least you didn't order a single-sided one from MAS, only to discover the ambis got restocked the day after yours shipped.  I got a email today saying my atrius has shipped. The tracking number says the classic "label created, usps awaiting item". So who knows when they will actually ship it. Hopefully next week. |
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Alright, my atrius showed up today. I got it and the rave 140 installed and then bench tested it. It would drop the hammer pretty much as soon as the bolt started moving forward, and it would then follow the bolt. I tried it on a 223 upper and it did not do this. So I took the BB SS trip out and decided to try adjusting the screw. As I got it from BB, the screw head was all the way down tight against the nut. I adjusted it a little at a time and with about 1/8in gap between the underside of the head of the screw, and the top of the nut, it seems to bench test better. The hammer now falls when the bolt is about 1/4in from being closed. If I adjust it out any more, the bolt will not go all the way to the rear. So I guess live fire will be the real test. I might be able to try it on new years day, but if not, then it will be the weekend before I can test. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Alright, my atrius showed up today. I got it and the rave 140 installed and then bench tested it. It would drop the hammer pretty much as soon as the bolt started moving forward, and it would then follow the bolt. I tried it on a 223 upper and it did not do this. So I took the BB SS trip out and decided to try adjusting the screw. As I got it from BB, the screw head was all the way down tight against the nut. I adjusted it a little at a time and with about 1/8in gap between the underside of the head of the screw, and the top of the nut, it seems to bench test better. The hammer now falls when the bolt is about 1/4in from being closed. If I adjust it out any more, the bolt will not go all the way to the rear. So I guess live fire will be the real test. I might be able to try it on new years day, but if not, then it will be the weekend before I can test. Fingers crossed for ya buddy! |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Fingers crossed for ya buddy! Same. I hope this is the magic sauce for you. Your trip config and accompanying observations (hammer drop timing, resistance on reward travel) are nearly identical to mine. I won’t be able to conduct another test until after the new year. I hope yours goes well! 🤞😔 |
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I'm working on a second upper for my 22 lower. I believe I have it running reliably now, but like a Maroon I didn't take pictures of the setup before I came home. It's a 12" Bore Buddy barrel, with a set of triangular carbine handguards, and a .625 front sight base that I drilled and tapped the pin holes to be a set screw mount. The upper receiver itself is a My notion is to have this pseudo retro upper tuned for unsuppressed CCI mini mags, and my suppressed upper with a red dot tuned for CCI subsonics. I cannot emphasize how excellent the Atrius/Rave140 combo is in comparison to every other FRT I've tried with 22 LR. Now a question for you guys using the buffer pressure plug: It's designed to insert, with the buffer retention pin in the one groove, and then turn it 90 degrees. Mine does not stay locked in that position. It's not a huge deal, but It just bugs me a little, does anyone else's do that? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'm working on a second upper for my 22 lower. I believe I have it running reliably now, but like a Maroon I didn't take pictures of the setup before I came home. It's a 12" Bore Buddy barrel, with a set of triangular carbine handguards, and a .625 front sight base that I drilled and tapped the pin holes to be a set screw mount. The upper receiver itself is a NoDak Spud black A1, originally for 9mm so it doesn't have a gas tube hole. And just for some whimsical fun I put on a retro 3 prong flash hider I had lying around. I added buffer weight gradually, and it functioned best with the steel BoreBuddy weight, with 4 aluminum pins. Unpainted recoil spring, I think that's 5 pounds. My notion is to have this pseudo retro upper tuned for unsuppressed CCI mini mags, and my suppressed upper with a red dot tuned for CCI subsonics. I cannot emphasize how excellent the Atrius/Rave140 combo is in comparison to every other FRT I've tried with 22 LR. Now a question for you guys using the buffer pressure plug: It's designed to insert, with the buffer retention pin in the one groove, and then turn it 90 degrees. Mine does not stay locked in that position. It's not a huge deal, but It just bugs me a little, does anyone else's do that?
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'm working on a second upper for my 22 lower. I believe I have it running reliably now, but like a Maroon I didn't take pictures of the setup before I came home. It's a 12" Bore Buddy barrel, with a set of triangular carbine handguards, and a .625 front sight base that I drilled and tapped the pin holes to be a set screw mount. The upper receiver itself is a NoDak Spud black A1, originally for 9mm so it doesn't have a gas tube hole. And just for some whimsical fun I put on a retro 3 prong flash hider I had lying around. I added buffer weight gradually, and it functioned best with the steel BoreBuddy weight, with 4 aluminum pins. Unpainted recoil spring, I think that's 5 pounds. My notion is to have this pseudo retro upper tuned for unsuppressed CCI mini mags, and my suppressed upper with a red dot tuned for CCI subsonics. I cannot emphasize how excellent the Atrius/Rave140 combo is in comparison to every other FRT I've tried with 22 LR. Now a question for you guys using the buffer pressure plug: It's designed to insert, with the buffer retention pin in the one groove, and then turn it 90 degrees. Mine does not stay locked in that position. It's not a huge deal, but It just bugs me a little, does anyone else's do that? Same here. Mine pivots around also. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By shultz: Yep, mine does the same. More often than not, mine shoots out as I pivot the upper if I forget to put my finger on the plug before pivoting to far Same. I 3D-printed one of these, which seems to do marginally better, but that one replaces the buffer and inserts directly into the spring. I might also try to print up one of these and see if it holds together, but my guess is the retainer pin tabs are a weak point. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Fingers crossed for ya buddy! Absofuckinglutely nothing has changed. I am millimeters away from bashing this upper with a sledge hammer. I have wasted so much fucking time and money trying to get this thing working and am getting nowhere. I have thrown retarded amounts money at this thing with nothing to show for it but a AR in 22lr that will work in semi auto. If I wanted a semi auto 22lr, I have 4 ruger 10/22's. The only reason for the existence of this AR is for forced reset, and it fails at that. I tried it and it ran fine in semi auto for a few rounds, then it would double in semi auto. One time it even did a short burst. In semi auto. I switched to frt and one shot and a dead trigger, live round in the chamber with a faint or no firing pin hit. Over and over and over. I tried adjusting the screw on the trip both ways. I ran it all the way back in, no dice, then ran it out a couple turns at a time and tested until it was out so far it would not let the bolt cycle to the rear when trying to pull the charging handle back (something binds). I then thought I would try removing the lead weights I got from bore buddy from the weight kit and put the SS ones back in. That was a cluster fuck. The lead weights stuck in the weight block. The rear ones I was able to tap the block on the table and got them out just enough to grab with pliers and force out. But the inner ones I had to drill them out. If anyone has tried to drill lead, well it sucks. I was about to just heat it with a torch and melt it out. I put the SS weights back in and also swapped back to the recoil spring that came with the upper, removing the franklin extra power spring. Still no dice. I tried readjusting the trip sled screw again a little at a time with no change. So to recount, Rave 140 and atrius, allegedly "certified" to work by bore buddy does NOT WORK. Semi auto works most of the time but it doubles and triples. Forced reset it fires one shot and a dead trigger, every time. The hammer follows the bolt. Live round in the chamber with no or very faint firing pin hit. I almost feel like the trigger pull on the rave 140 is too light and may be causing some of the issue in semi auto. I decided to try another lower with my ARC fire and a G2S trigger. This things runs 100% with a 223 upper. I had tried it before, but without adjusting the trip sled. Still the same thing. But this time I tried to adjust the screw on the trip from all the way in and slowly backed out till it would not cycle from binding. Still no dice. Same thing as always. Live round in the chamber, faint or no firing pin hit and dead trigger. At least on it, semi auto works perfectly fine with no doubles or more. But forced reset it gets hammer follow every time. I spent about 2 hours this afternoon working with this thing and have nothing to show for it. I am starting to think it is my upper or something. Is it defective? |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Absofuckinglutely nothing has changed. I am millimeters away from bashing this upper with a sledge hammer. I have wasted so much fucking time and money trying to get this thing working and am getting nowhere. I have thrown retarded amounts money at this thing with nothing to show for it but a AR in 22lr that will work in semi auto. If I wanted a semi auto 22lr, I have 4 ruger 10/22's. The only reason for the existence of this AR is for forced reset, and it fails at that. I tried it and it ran fine in semi auto for a few rounds, then it would double in semi auto. One time it even did a short burst. In semi auto. I switched to frt and one shot and a dead trigger, live round in the chamber with a faint or no firing pin hit. Over and over and over. I tried adjusting the screw on the trip both ways. I ran it all the way back in, no dice, then ran it out a couple turns at a time and tested until it was out so far it would not let the bolt cycle to the rear when trying to pull the charging handle back (something binds). I then thought I would try removing the lead weights I got from bore buddy from the weight kit and put the SS ones back in. That was a cluster fuck. The lead weights stuck in the weight block. The rear ones I was able to tap the block on the table and got them out just enough to grab with pliers and force out. But the inner ones I had to drill them out. If anyone has tried to drill lead, well it sucks. I was about to just heat it with a torch and melt it out. I put the SS weights back in and also swapped back to the recoil spring that came with the upper, removing the franklin extra power spring. Still no dice. I tried readjusting the trip sled screw again a little at a time with no change. So to recount, Rave 140 and atrius, allegedly "certified" to work by bore buddy does NOT WORK. Semi auto works most of the time but it doubles and triples. Forced reset it fires one shot and a dead trigger, every time. The hammer follows the bolt. Live round in the chamber with no or very faint firing pin hit. I almost feel like the trigger pull on the rave 140 is too light and may be causing some of the issue in semi auto. I decided to try another lower with my ARC fire and a G2S trigger. This things runs 100% with a 223 upper. I had tried it before, but without adjusting the trip sled. Still the same thing. But this time I tried to adjust the screw on the trip from all the way in and slowly backed out till it would not cycle from binding. Still no dice. Same thing as always. Live round in the chamber, faint or no firing pin hit and dead trigger. At least on it, semi auto works perfectly fine with no doubles or more. But forced reset it gets hammer follow every time. I spent about 2 hours this afternoon working with this thing and have nothing to show for it. I am starting to think it is my upper or something. Is it defective? Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Fingers crossed for ya buddy! Absofuckinglutely nothing has changed. I am millimeters away from bashing this upper with a sledge hammer. I have wasted so much fucking time and money trying to get this thing working and am getting nowhere. I have thrown retarded amounts money at this thing with nothing to show for it but a AR in 22lr that will work in semi auto. If I wanted a semi auto 22lr, I have 4 ruger 10/22's. The only reason for the existence of this AR is for forced reset, and it fails at that. I tried it and it ran fine in semi auto for a few rounds, then it would double in semi auto. One time it even did a short burst. In semi auto. I switched to frt and one shot and a dead trigger, live round in the chamber with a faint or no firing pin hit. Over and over and over. I tried adjusting the screw on the trip both ways. I ran it all the way back in, no dice, then ran it out a couple turns at a time and tested until it was out so far it would not let the bolt cycle to the rear when trying to pull the charging handle back (something binds). I then thought I would try removing the lead weights I got from bore buddy from the weight kit and put the SS ones back in. That was a cluster fuck. The lead weights stuck in the weight block. The rear ones I was able to tap the block on the table and got them out just enough to grab with pliers and force out. But the inner ones I had to drill them out. If anyone has tried to drill lead, well it sucks. I was about to just heat it with a torch and melt it out. I put the SS weights back in and also swapped back to the recoil spring that came with the upper, removing the franklin extra power spring. Still no dice. I tried readjusting the trip sled screw again a little at a time with no change. So to recount, Rave 140 and atrius, allegedly "certified" to work by bore buddy does NOT WORK. Semi auto works most of the time but it doubles and triples. Forced reset it fires one shot and a dead trigger, every time. The hammer follows the bolt. Live round in the chamber with no or very faint firing pin hit. I almost feel like the trigger pull on the rave 140 is too light and may be causing some of the issue in semi auto. I decided to try another lower with my ARC fire and a G2S trigger. This things runs 100% with a 223 upper. I had tried it before, but without adjusting the trip sled. Still the same thing. But this time I tried to adjust the screw on the trip from all the way in and slowly backed out till it would not cycle from binding. Still no dice. Same thing as always. Live round in the chamber, faint or no firing pin hit and dead trigger. At least on it, semi auto works perfectly fine with no doubles or more. But forced reset it gets hammer follow every time. I spent about 2 hours this afternoon working with this thing and have nothing to show for it. I am starting to think it is my upper or something. Is it defective? I think there has to be a root cause. It seems impossible that you would have this much bad luck with so many different triggers. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the '16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn't work. I'm going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it's north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5" barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: Try ammo that uses lanolin based lube instead of wax based for cold weather. Originally Posted By Jambalaya: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the '16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn't work. I'm going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it's north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5" barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. Does any factory ammo come with that? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I think there has to be a root cause. It seems impossible that you would have this much bad luck with so many different triggers. That's why I put that very last line in my post. I am starting to think there is something wrong with my upper, as I should have accidently gotten it to work by now. This should not be this difficult to make work. I wish I had a x-ray high speed camera so I could see inside the gun when I am testing it to see exactly what is happening. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: ... I then thought I would try removing the lead weights I got from bore buddy from the weight kit and put the SS ones back in. That was a cluster fuck. The lead weights stuck in the weight block. The rear ones I was able to tap the block on the table and got them out just enough to grab with pliers and force out. But the inner ones I had to drill them out. If anyone has tried to drill lead, well it sucks. I was about to just heat it with a torch and melt it out. ... I had to drill out two of my four lead weights, too, after they deformed under fire and got stuck like yours did. I'm sad I didn't warn about this more prominently. I'll try to remember to take photos of the punch holes I drilled into the back of the carrier next time I have it out. I asked Bore Buddy to either stop selling those weights or start drilling punch holes in their carriers as soon as I noticed this, but I haven't heard anything back from them. (It was over the holiday though, so I half didn't expect to.) Jan 3, 2026 Edit After having to drill out one large and one small weight, these are the 3/32" holes I drilled through the "back" of my steel carrier:    I'm a little miffed I missed the center of the 1/4" channel, but oh well. I ran my remaining large and small lead weights in the rear (closest to the opening) and large and small steel weights toward the rear (closest to my drilled punch holes). After running about 100 rds through the gun, the lead weights deformed/expanded enough such that no weights would slide in the carrier, and nothing would come out on its own. This is what they looked like after I pounded them out with a punch:  My assessment is that the lead weights are not fit for purpose. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Does any factory ammo come with that? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Jambalaya: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the '16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn't work. I'm going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it's north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5" barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. Does any factory ammo come with that? CCI standard velocity wax lube gets very hard in cold weather. One range trip it was tough to pull them out of the clear plastic tray, and it was shaving chunks of wax off of them as I was removing them. Some companies sell (expensive) biathlon ammo with cold weather lube for this reason. Or, you could try keeping the mags/ammo inside your coat unti you are ready to shoot and see if it makes a difference. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Absofuckinglutely nothing has changed. I am millimeters away from bashing this upper with a sledge hammer. I have wasted so much fucking time and money trying to get this thing working and am getting nowhere. I have thrown retarded amounts money at this thing with nothing to show for it but a AR in 22lr that will work in semi auto. If I wanted a semi auto 22lr, I have 4 ruger 10/22's. The only reason for the existence of this AR is for forced reset, and it fails at that. I tried it and it ran fine in semi auto for a few rounds, then it would double in semi auto. One time it even did a short burst. In semi auto. I switched to frt and one shot and a dead trigger, live round in the chamber with a faint or no firing pin hit. Over and over and over. I tried adjusting the screw on the trip both ways. I ran it all the way back in, no dice, then ran it out a couple turns at a time and tested until it was out so far it would not let the bolt cycle to the rear when trying to pull the charging handle back (something binds). I then thought I would try removing the lead weights I got from bore buddy from the weight kit and put the SS ones back in. That was a cluster fuck. The lead weights stuck in the weight block. The rear ones I was able to tap the block on the table and got them out just enough to grab with pliers and force out. But the inner ones I had to drill them out. If anyone has tried to drill lead, well it sucks. I was about to just heat it with a torch and melt it out. I put the SS weights back in and also swapped back to the recoil spring that came with the upper, removing the franklin extra power spring. Still no dice. I tried readjusting the trip sled screw again a little at a time with no change. So to recount, Rave 140 and atrius, allegedly "certified" to work by bore buddy does NOT WORK. Semi auto works most of the time but it doubles and triples. Forced reset it fires one shot and a dead trigger, every time. The hammer follows the bolt. Live round in the chamber with no or very faint firing pin hit. I almost feel like the trigger pull on the rave 140 is too light and may be causing some of the issue in semi auto. I decided to try another lower with my ARC fire and a G2S trigger. This things runs 100% with a 223 upper. I had tried it before, but without adjusting the trip sled. Still the same thing. But this time I tried to adjust the screw on the trip from all the way in and slowly backed out till it would not cycle from binding. Still no dice. Same thing as always. Live round in the chamber, faint or no firing pin hit and dead trigger. At least on it, semi auto works perfectly fine with no doubles or more. But forced reset it gets hammer follow every time. I spent about 2 hours this afternoon working with this thing and have nothing to show for it. I am starting to think it is my upper or something. Is it defective? I finally had a chance to run mine with a slightly updated setup now that the weather warmed up a little. To recap, I have a BB When I did the spring/weight update, I cleaned everything.  I forget who suggested this, but I also bought some WD-40 Dry Lube and slathered it all over upon reassembly. At first I didn't notice a meaningful difference from my prior attempt, i.e., 36 gr CCI mini-mags (962s) ran to the bottom of the mag, but I was still getting intermittent stoppages with 40 gr CCI mini-mags (36CCs), and even more with 40 gr CCI subsonics (74s). (Both 40 gr rounds are subsonic out of my gun anyway, but the 74s are a little quieter, and the 36CCs will occasionally go supersonic.) Then I tried as light a trigger squeeze as I could muster, just barely touching the thing and then very slowly increasing pressure until it started sending rounds. I was able to clear a mag each of the 36 gr CCI 962s, 40 gr CCI 36CCs, 40 gr Federal 22HAMs (subsonic out of my gun), 36 gr Federal 749s (supersonic out of my gun), 40 gr CCI Velocitors (CCI prod. no. 47, supersonic out of my gun), and some old 38 gr Sellier & Bellot SB22Bs (supersonic out of my gun). By "mag", I either mean 15 rd Kriss mags with upgraded springs or 25 rd Kriss mags with upgraded springs loaded to 20-25 rds. I even got through a 15-rd mag of 40 gr Federal AM22s (which seem to be universally hated I think because they require a heavier hit with the firing pin to touch off) with only one stoppage. The 40 gr CCI 74 subsonics were still finicky (at most 5-6 rds before a stoppage). I also tried some 38 gr Federal AE22s, but those were even quieter and less reliable than the CCI 74s. I was surprised, pleasantly because I hadn't gotten that far before, but unpleasantly because it was sooo easy to choke this thing out. It seemed like there was a direct correlation between recoil and reliability. (Duh, I guess.) But I did not fully appreciate the amount of finesse required for trigger pressure management. Yes, I am getting "used to it," but it's definitely a fine motor skill that I easily get wrong. It's not even remotely close to any other setup I've tried. Maybe some additional tuning will help (perhaps going back to all steel weights and moving to an even lighter recoil spring). |
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: ... CCI standard velocity wax lube gets very hard in cold weather. One range trip it was tough to pull them out of the clear plastic tray, and it was shaving chunks of wax off of them as I was removing them. ... When I use my Tippmann Speed Loader with CCI rounds, a ton of the stuff accumulates at the lip of the magazine. The first time I noticed it, I was worried that I was shaving plastic off the interior of the loader somewhere. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: I finally had a chance to run mine with a slightly updated setup now that the weather warmed up a little. To recap, I have a BB 8" tucked upper, suppressed. I now have a 4 lb recoil spring and a brand new Super Strike firing pin with a light firing pin spring. I'm now using the BB steel weight carrier and with one large steel weight, one small steel weight, one large lead weight, and one small lead weight. (The reason for this configuration is because I lost two of my lead weights when I had to drill them out of the carrier after they deformed, much like @Jeeps-and-Guns had to do.) My BB trip sled has the set screw as far out as it will go without interfering with bolt travel. I'm using an Atrius with a Rave 140. When I did the spring/weight update, I cleaned everything. https://media.tenor.com/OGIXK_P_1mIAAAAM/everything-reaction-meme.gif I forget who suggested this, but I also bought some WD-40 Dry Lube and slathered it all over upon reassembly. At first I didn't notice a meaningful difference from my prior attempt, i.e., 36 gr CCI mini-mags (962s) ran to the bottom of the mag, but I was still getting intermittent stoppages with 40 gr CCI mini-mags (36CCs), and even more with 40 gr CCI subsonics (74s). (Both 40 gr rounds are subsonic out of my gun anyway, but the 74s are a little quieter, and the 36CCs will occasionally go supersonic.) Then I tried as light a trigger squeeze as I could muster, just barely touching the thing and then very slowly increasing pressure until it started sending rounds. I was able to clear a mag each of the 36 gr CCI 962s, 40 gr CCI 36CCs, 40 gr Federal 22HAMs (subsonic out of my gun), 36 gr Federal 749s (supersonic out of my gun), 40 gr CCI Velocitors (CCI prod. no. 47, supersonic out of my gun), and some old 38 gr Sellier & Bellot SB22Bs (supersonic out of my gun). By "mag", I either mean 15 rd Kriss mags with upgraded springs or 25 rd Kriss mags with upgraded springs loaded to 20-25 rds. I even got through a 15-rd mag of 40 gr Federal AM22s (which seem to be universally hated I think because they require a heavier hit with the firing pin to touch off) with only one stoppage. The 40 gr CCI 74 subsonics were still finicky (at most 5-6 rds before a stoppage). I also tried some 38 gr Federal AE22s, but those were even quieter and less reliable than the CCI 74s. I was surprised, pleasantly because I hadn't gotten that far before, but unpleasantly because it was sooo easy to choke this thing out. It seemed like there was a direct correlation between recoil and reliability. (Duh, I guess.) But I did not fully appreciate the amount of finesse required for trigger pressure management. Yes, I am getting "used to it," but it's definitely a fine motor skill that I easily get wrong. Absolutely nothing remotely close to any other setup I've tried. Maybe some additional tuning will help (perhaps going back to all steel weights and moving to an even lighter recoil spring). I've since moved to cornfires MARC, very similar to your atrius. Using a PSA EPT trigger and again a full set of KVP reduced power springs the trigger is absolutely not at all sensitive to finger pressure. I even dumped a few mags and a BD drum using way more then my normal finger pressure and it just spit all 100rds... Just today I helped my neighbor get his AR tuned. I brought some FRT toys including 22lr for him to try. I handed him my 22lr, didnt give any instruction for trigger pressure... he fired a couple rds then flipped to fun and emptied the mag. Then emptied 3 more mags before moving to one of my 9mm FRT setups. Much giggling and smiling occurred along the way 
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Originally Posted By shultz: Shame you can't try different trigger springs. Two things helped make my SS trigger much less sensitive to finger pressure. Adjusting the trip reset screw out allowing the bolt to reset the trigger sooner, this made a small improvement. What really helped, full set of KVP reduced power trigger springs. I could still choke it out, but I had pay MUCH less attention to finger pressure after installing the springs. I've since moved to cornfires MARC, very similar to your atrius. Using a PSA EPT trigger and again a full set of KVP reduced power springs the trigger is absolutely not at all sensitive to finger pressure. I even dumped a few mags and a BD drum using way more then my normal finger pressure and it just spit all 100rds... Just today I helped my neighbor get his AR tuned. I brought some FRT toys including 22lr for him to try. I handed him my 22lr, didnt give any instruction for trigger pressure... he fired a couple rds then flipped to fun and emptied the mag. Then emptied 3 more mags before moving to one of my 9mm FRT setups. Much giggling and smiling occurred along the way What ammo do you use? What's your barrel length? Do you know what your recoil spring weight is? Are you using bolt weights? |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: How much weight total are you guys successfully running with the CMMG .22 kit? I hear about "max weight" and things like that - apparently some are adjustable? i have the 2 5mm tungsten rods which comes out to a whopping 18g .. enough? I experienced no bolt bounce with BB's 5 lb recoil spring, steel carrier, and all aluminum weights. I've since gone to all steel weights. There is a lot of advice out there to go as light as you can while maintaining reliability. For my setup, I think I'm in the camp to go as heavy as you can while still allowing things to cycle. I'm currently experimenting with a mix of lead and steel internal weights, but I pretty sure I'm going to drop back down to all steel internal weights since subsonics seem to be less reliable with the additional weight. My guess is that going all tungsten is probably overkill, but they're probably good to have on hand while you're testing. (Let me know if you want to sell some or all of them, though.  )
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: What ammo do you use? What's your barrel length? Do you know what your recoil spring weight is? Are you using bolt weights? 4.5" CMMG barrel with a sparrow attached. RED bore buddy recoil spring. Yes to bolt weight. Aluminum bore buddy weight housing with one large and small steel weight and one large and small aluminum weight. Edit to add... I've used the same set up shooting a fair bit of 40gr CCI blazer and 36gr mini mag and some 40gr Federal auto match. All ran, the only thing that varied a bit was ROF. To shoot CCI SV or Aguila SV I need the yellow recoil spring and ALL aluminum weights. |
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I have tried various amounts of trigger pressure on all attempts. I never pull the trigger hard, only just enough to make it go off. So I doubt trigger pressure if my culprit. One thing I think I am noticing about my build Vs everyone else's, is I have a 16in barrel. Seems everyone else is running 12in or shorter. I got the 16in barrel as I wanted a actual stock (not a crappy brace) and I did not want to fuck around with stamps. Is the issue the barrel length? Will they just not run with a 16in barrel? Anyone running a 16in barrel and have reliable function? |
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I dont have my setup tested / running yet but I shot a couple of other member's .22 setups and both had 16 inch barrels. one had max weights, the plug for the buffer tube and the other thing that was key for him was black dog machine magazines - he couldnt run it with CMMG magazines but the black dog mags solved his issue. apparently either not enough or too much spring pressure. |
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I measured the the diameter of my BB weights, 4.65mm and 6.21mm. You could order these and cut to length. Might even try 3 shorter weights for a little more dead blow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6KL9FGM?tag=arfcom00-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1G8CJHB?tag=arfcom00-20 Yes it's tungsten carbide so it won't be as heavy as pure tungsten. Still, it should be much denser then steel or lead unless it's just garbage. Or, you can get the good stuff 3/16x12" and 1/4x10" from Mcmaster for only too fiddy Yes,those two small pieces of high purity tungsten would be $250 before tax and shipping... |
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Originally Posted By shultz: You could order these and cut to length. Might even try 3 shorter weights for a little more dead blow. ... Or, you can get the good stuff 3/16x12" and 1/4x10" from Mcmaster for only too fiddy Yes,those two small pieces of high purity tungsten would be $250 before tax and shipping... You don't fool me, Loch Ness Monster! Seriously, though, yowza...  Also, cutting one of those tungsten carbide rods sounds really fun. I'd probably try to keep a similar OAL, though. I've heard you can break the carrier with too much travel and tungsten weights.
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Originally Posted By shultz: Shame you can't try different trigger springs. Two things helped make my SS trigger much less sensitive to finger pressure. Adjusting the trip reset screw out allowing the bolt to reset the trigger sooner, this made a small improvement. What really helped, full set of KVP reduced power trigger springs. I could still choke it out, but I had pay MUCH less attention to finger pressure after installing the springs. I've since moved to cornfires MARC, very similar to your atrius. Using a PSA EPT trigger and again a full set of KVP reduced power springs the trigger is absolutely not at all sensitive to finger pressure. I even dumped a few mags and a BD drum using way more then my normal finger pressure and it just spit all 100rds... I now have one on order. I'll probably try it with the Atrius and a well-polished ST Battle Trigger (similar--at least in appearance--to your PSA EPT). The KVP looks like it has a substantially reduced weight hammer spring in addition to the trigger spring. This gave me an idea, since the hammer reset on Rave 140 seems pretty sprightly. Unless I'm mistaken, the hammer spring should work as an additional recoil spring, at least for the first part of the reward stroke, and should be completely absent by the time it bounces off the rear, and remain so on the return. I was able to go back out again today after another thorough cleaning, but now with a lighter (3 lb blue) recoil spring and a steel carrier back down to all aluminum weights (my minimum to avoid bolt bounce with a 5 lb spring). Nothing ran. I tried everything I had. Even CCI 32 gr Stingers. Literally everything stopped after a single round, with a dead trigger and chambered round with a very light strike. I removed the bolt and noticed that my set trip sled set screw had walked all the way back in. I replaced the aluminum weights with all steel ones, leaving the set screw where it was for the time being. After that, things ran pretty well. CCI 40 gr subsonics (74s) ran really well. I was out of the 40 gr supers (33CCs), but 32 gr Stingers flew, and I was hard on the trigger. 36 gr Velocitors flew. The 38 gr SB22Bs worked pretty well. The 36 gr 962s started to have a few problems. The Federal 40 gr AM22s had their usual 2-3 hiccups per mag, but they were now supersonic for some reason. The Federal 36 gr 749s were now subsonic, and had a lot of problems (2-5 rd bursts before a dead trigger). The Federal 38 gr AE22s ran better than they did with the 4 lb spring (now 3-10 rd bursts before a dead trigger), but were now supersonic. The Federal 40 gr 22HAMs ran reasonably well (0-2 stoppages per mag) and remained subsonic. I don't get why some rounds would go from sub to super while others would go from super to sub. I got back home and cleaned everything out again. After fiddling with the set screw again, I noticed that, even at only 3-4 turns out, the resistance I experience when resetting the safety is slightly higher than when the screw is all the way in. It's subtle, but it's definitely there. I wonder if that was my problem when I had to feather-finger it to get it to run. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I have tried various amounts of trigger pressure on all attempts. I never pull the trigger hard, only just enough to make it go off. So I doubt trigger pressure if my culprit. One thing I think I am noticing about my build Vs everyone else's, is I have a 16in barrel. Seems everyone else is running 12in or shorter. I got the 16in barrel as I wanted a actual stock (not a crappy brace) and I did not want to fuck around with stamps. Is the issue the barrel length? Will they just not run with a 16in barrel? Anyone running a 16in barrel and have reliable function? 16” and 20” barrels. Both run VERY well. The blue box Federal from Walmart is not loaded hot enough for reliable operation. Use hotter ammo. Both of mine like Remington Golden Bullet or the older Federal in the red box. Attached File When you make changes, only change ONE thing at a time. Make small changes. These are the basics of QC. I spent 20 years in quality from flexible packaging to injection molding to aircraft. Always note how the change affected operation. Go slow and figure it out. |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: 16" and 20" barrels. Both run VERY well. The blue box Federal from Walmart is not loaded hot enough for reliable operation. Use hotter ammo. Both of mine like Remington Golden Bullet or the older Federal in the red box. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1693_jpeg-3687752.JPG When you make changes, only change ONE thing at a time. Make small changes. These are the basics of QC. I spent 20 years in quality from flexible packaging to injection molding to aircraft. Always note how the change affected operation. Go slow and figure it out. +1 for small changes, one at a time. |
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Attached File Attached File The red box and blue box Federal ammo. Pretty sure both came from WalMart. The packaging list the muzzle velocity as the same @ 1,260 FPS. I don’t have a chronograph but you can tell a stark difference in the two. The red box is much louder with much more positive ejection. The blue box is very inconsistent and some rounds sound like they are subsonic and the spent casings barely dribble out of the ejection port. I have learned to relegate it to my suppressed Mark 4 pistol. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I've seen several not very positive reviews for the champion bulk. Seems some lots are OK and others are total garbage. An example of garbage... crono dosen't lie! The WORST 22 Ammo I've Ever Bought (And Why The Other One is Actually Good) Champion vs AutoMatch Don on the other hand got a decent lot of champion...  BULK .22LR SERIES - FEDERAL CHAMPION 36 gn CHP, Lilja CZ457 and Tikka T1X |
Very interesting. Thank you for posting that video. I’m trying to shoot all the blue box I have left. Unfortunately I have quite a bit left.
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: Very interesting. Thank you for posting that video. I'm trying to shoot all the blue box I have left. Unfortunately I have quite a bit left. I never expect match performance or low SD's from bulk ammo but damn it shouldn't ever have 400fps extreme spreads... |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: ... When you make changes, only change ONE thing at a time. Make small changes. These are the basics of QC. I spent 20 years in quality from flexible packaging to injection molding to aircraft. Always note how the change affected operation. Go slow and figure it out. The problem is that unless you land within reach of "workable" on at least several variables at once, there's a risk that nothing works. That means you could span the entire range of one of them and never appear to get anywhere. For example, the "recommended" weight for my setup is aluminum carrier with all aluminum weights. If I stayed with that, I'm pretty sure no matter what ammo I used, what springs I installed, or what trip slide timing I set, I would never see any improvement. I might come to the conclusion that no ammo would work, no spring was appropriate, or no timing was usable. You kind of have to stumble on something where you can at least get 5-10 round bursts, and then you might still have a long way to go. There are lucky folks on here who have setups that seem to eat all kinds of different ammo. You can easily be misled into thinking if you copy their recipes, you can get the same reliability, but that might take you down a very long and expensive dead end. Further complications arise when trying to rule out bad parts. Many stories suggest firing pins or specific magazines are likely culprits to rule out. I had no idea whether I had a bad firing pin, so I needlessly ordered a second. I only noticed by accident my recoil spring had too many coils. Bore Buddy's weight recommendations were completely wrong for me. The recommendation to use as little weight as possible was the least efficient approach for me. The advice to use heavier springs was absolutely wrong for me. I also suspect that dedicated bolt setups and CMMG conversions are surprisingly different animals. Applying lessons learned on one platform may not be applicable to the other. Same goes for cassette- vs. lever-style FRTs. The Atrius may be its own thing, since it has a spring that forces the lever forward as the bolt returns to battery. I'm making progress, but finding a baseline that works at all is very different from tuning a setup that works partially. So far, it seems like that baseline has been (and remains) elusive for some. This does feel a little bit like dicking around with a wildcat cartridge for some exotic barrel length and twist rate. That's fine if you know that's what you're getting into. Despite some commercial parts availability, there doesn't appear to be any commercial support for those struggling to get things dialed in. Part of being on the bleeding edge, I suppose.... |
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I managed to get a working setup with a Rare Breed trigger, with a 4 inch cmmg barrel, suppressed. I have a particular sbr lower that serves as a multi-upper/caliber host that I focused on. Not terribly interested in dedicated gun. It took me 3 range sessions, and a bit of frustration as I was expecting. I've been in the Ciener conversion game for 20 years, so I have a lot of accumulated gear, and experience. I'll preface this with posting an Arfcom archived thread, which has been posted here earlier, I really think anyone venturing down this path should review. Minus the purse swinging on buffer plugs, a ton of useful information. This is an old RB 22lr thread, that should apply to any cartridge style trigger, with more useful info for anyone probably using any FRT. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-Rare-Breed-FRT-15-in-dedicated-22LR-AR15-and-Bore-Buddy-weights/15-765172/? This next is a google drive doc of working configs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B9GTcz62RdCUDDWGrOekxLUfZ5SGsqZL/view Had I read through this thread before my second range trip, I might have been able to get things running in just two trips. First trip, I attempted to get a Partisan trigger working. No dice. The actual hammer tension in the Partisan was too weak to even set off a 22 in semi mode. Light hammer spring, no spring, not heavy enough. In reviewing several lowers and triggers that evening, the Partisan was much weaker than the RB, with the RB feeling weaker than even a GA single stage. betting an frt with more of a factory style trigger arrangement would be the easiest to get running. If you look at the cassette style trigger, there is not a lot of room between the side of the hammer and inside wall of the cassette to wind that spring. A mill spec trigger has four wraps of hammer spring, both the Partisan and RB have two. Day two, I swapped out the Partisan for my RB for this lower. Confirmed semi working fine, with good rim hit. The first snag I hit was getting the trip sled adjusted correctly. It takes so little movement of the actual trip to getting it either tripping the sear correctly or not. The thread linked above describes 5 thou or so of the bolt locking up before release. The easiest way to get this correct is to adjust, close the bolt with a feeler gauge between the front of the bolt and chamber, and check in semi and frt that the hammer will drop. I will mention something that I snapped to after day two and reading the thread above. As the exact trip point is so important to this exercise, any play in the system that could affect this trip point probably should be mitigated. In my case, the Partisan cassette in my lower has a small amount of vertical rotational play. I can lift the front of the entire cassette a couple of thou. Zero impact when I run centerfire, but for the 22lr, having the trip bar changing location by this small amount might not be helpful. My RB cassette has zero play, so I did not have to ponder shimming. While testing, I was using the Bore Buddy trip, an older BB weight sled which is brass, has the back plat screw arrangement, and only one set of 4 stainless weights. Factory recoil spring, cmmg firing pin (square chisel type). cmmg extractor. I got my trip point dialed in, although I had not read the above thread, and did it the hard way, racking, easing the bolt forward while trying to keep it off the breach face, while easing the charging handle into the upper. Then started playing with the limited weight combos I had, with not much success. As I have a Law folder, I decided to try the regular BB recoil in the upper, fiddled with the weights, the tried a lighter trigger touch, and low and behold managed a couple of 3 shot bursts. I knew then that it was likely possible. Testing a bunch of different ammo (not a great idea), the scenario was the same. A couple of rounds working, actual hammer follow (not enough back force from the round) or chambered round with light strike indicating bolt bounce. Pull the bolt assembly out, find the back plate of the weight sled loose, tighten retest. Nothing was working consistently. As I was running the Better Magwell adapter and S&W mags, I decided to pull that out, and run some cmmg mags and even an old Ciener mag. Presto, got a few long strings of frt fire. Got home, read the above thread and discovered a couple of my problems. I had managed to dial in the trip mostly correctly, but I reset it to 5 thou. Discovered why the BMW adapter was giving me fits. It actually interferes with the trip sled, at the front crossing bar of the sled. This bar impacts the back of the aluminum mag insert. The thread above shows a picture of the mod. Dead simple to file the aluminum material away. Confirmed from the thread that I really needed to keep the BB plastic plug in place. Yesterday, day three, I had my trigger adjusted correctly, grabbed an old Ciener solid steel weight (to give me another combo of weight), and only used two kinds of ammo for the most part. Replaced my broken firing pin that I discovered when checking everything over. I broke the firing pin from either the silly light FP spring I was running to get the Partisan working, or the ton of dry fire (which I know better on a rim fire) when getting the trip adjusted the day before. With all the parts noted, using the steel Ciener weight sled, I had PMC Sidewinder (discontinued, bummer) and Winchester M22 bulk pack running great. I started getting misfires at one point, and thinking maybe a broken FP, opened things up. No broken FP, but the spring was a solid mess of carbon (probably from the suppressor). Cleared it out, back to running great. yes, a long read, so here are my suggestions: Make sure that anything in the system that can rob the energy of the system from doing what should happen, bolt back and forward, constant trip point. If cassette style, locked down in the lower, etc. I like a pressure plug to keep the back plate of the device from moving. Consistent trigger pressure, as the bolt has to force the reset as well as reset the hammer/sear. Mine work great at a normal pressure, no light touch not white knuckle. Keeping in mind that the ammo choice will set the back speed of the bolt, against the weight of the bolt spring and overall weight of the weight sled, with the weight sled needing the right amount of weight to counter bounce. Lighter spring, heavier weight, or vice versa. As to ammo, sure, pick anything and everything maybe to get started, but once you find something that wants to work, focus there. Try the weights and springs, but do not fiddle with brands of ammo at this point. And anyone playing the 22LR ar game knows, cheaper ammo is fun, but who has not had the occasional (in semi mode) of a crack, crack, CRACK, crack, crack, plop. With how tight this seems to need to be run, I might suggest known quality ammo to get things started. That CRACK or plop will probably stop the frt running. When running the Winchester M22, when I got a stoppage, I just racked it out and went back to running. No stressing over "now what". If you can try a couple of different mags, great. In my case, the Ciener mag change fixed a different problem (trip interference), but those Ciener mags have strong springs, steel lips, and solid feeding. And if you are picking an FRT style because you like the lighter trigger pull, this will work against your 22lr adventure. I base this on not having tried very many frt's, but years with Ciener conversions and a ton of different semi triggers. I'm about to place a big order with Bore Buddy to get some spare parts (that I know work) and a little flexibility to experiment. Maybe the Partisan will work with a titanium firing pin? It will certainly need shimming in my lower. And off to find some quality ammo that will be subsonic from my 4 inch barrel. I had reasonable luck with minimags, but only have full speed version, and they are a bit "loud". |
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Okay, after another 400-500 rounds, I finally got this darn thing to run reasonably well. As an aside, it seemed to run better the dirtier it got. I'm not sure if that's "a thing," as the kids say. My "goal" was to have something that would run a fairly wide array of ammo, but I mainly wanted to find something subsonic and reliable. Here's where I landed:
Here's the ammo I tested:
I really wanted the Federal 22HAMs to work, since they sound closest to the CCI 74s (at least out of my gun), but are much cheaper. I might get another box to try with slightly less weight. However, my experience with Federal 22 LR ammo is that it typically has a "harder" primer than the CCI and S&B I've tested and more load variation, both of which could lead to more stoppages in FRT mode. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Okay, after another 400-500 rounds, I finally got this darn thing to run reasonably well. As an aside, it seemed to run better the dirtier it got. I'm not sure if that's "a thing," as the kids say. My "goal" was to have something that would run a fairly wide array of ammo, but I mainly wanted to find something subsonic and reliable. Here's where I landed:
Here's the ammo I tested:
I really wanted the Federal 22HAMs to work, since they sound closest to the CCI 74s (at least out of my gun), but are much cheaper. I might get another box to try with slightly less weight. However, my experience with Federal 22 LR ammo is that it typically has a "harder" primer than the CCI and S&B I've tested and more load variation, both of which could lead to more stoppages in FRT mode. if you can find these...buy a 500 rd box and try. Aguila sniper sub-sonic 60gr. i bought 1 box yrs ago to try in my reg. receiver. ( i have spikes tac. dedicated 22 bolts ) and they run around 95% thru a 5in suppressed bbl. when these S.S.`s and other frt`s became available i tried these rds. with the frt`s i had purchased and these subs ran just as well. i have not found another .22 rd to work so well other than CCI mini-mags. just food for thought! |
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Glad to hear that you got it running! To be honest, .22LR is difficult to get running well. It takes the exact combination of all the variables working in unison to get them to run. You just have to use trial and error. But it’s important to change only one variable at a time so you know what difference it made. If you make a change to the weight kit, don’t change anything else. Test and note what change it made and then even try it the opposite way of your baseline to see what the effect is. One VERY important factor is CONSISTENT ammo. It needs to be consistent ammo to get reproducible results in testing. |
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If I could go back in time, here's the recipe I'd give myself if I had to start over again:
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Okay, after another 400-500 rounds, I finally got this darn thing to run reasonably well. As an aside, it seemed to run better the dirtier it got. I'm not sure if that's "a thing," as the kids say. My "goal" was to have something that would run a fairly wide array of ammo, but I mainly wanted to find something subsonic and reliable. Here's where I landed:
Here's the ammo I tested:
I really wanted the Federal 22HAMs to work, since they sound closest to the CCI 74s (at least out of my gun), but are much cheaper. I might get another box to try with slightly less weight. However, my experience with Federal 22 LR ammo is that it typically has a "harder" primer than the CCI and S&B I've tested and more load variation, both of which could lead to more stoppages in FRT mode. The firing pin channel does get dirty especially when using wet lube. Try some Hornady one shot clean and lube. It's all I use now for all my semi 22lr's and I was a die hard run um wet guy...with the dry lube my guns run better, cleaner for longer. When I do clean this easier as well, 90% of the carbon just wipes off. Cutting tungsten carbide is a chore. The high speed dremel fiber cutting disks work, just have a hand full handy oh, don't even bother with the cheap, thin pressed cutting disks that come in a tube. Real woven fiber cutting disks.you can also use a good quality dremel diamond cutting wheel. High speed as well, slow cutting, let the wheel do the work and keep it cool. For finishing,chamfering dremel diamond burrs work well. Again high speed and go slow cutting, keep them cool. PPE! Safety glasses and wear a good dust mask. You don't want to breath in carbide or tungsten dust... Can't help much with what bulk ammo to use. Seems federal isn't a great choice nowadays. I'm glad the red box federal I bought a boat load of years ago works so well for me FRT. Might try some CCI blazer and remington golden bullets. Blazer has always been pretty good for me and I've shot a brick or so FRT and it ran well. Golden bullet...I haven't shot any in decades but I hear it's not near as bad now as it once was... Edit I see you're using WD40 specialist dry lube. Thats pretty good stuff as well and what I first tried for dry lube. I do think the hornady one shot clean and lube is better lube but either worked well for me and far better than any of the oils, CLP's I had been using... |
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Originally Posted By shultz: ... The firing pin channel does get dirty especially when using wet lube. Try some Hornady one shot clean and lube. It's all I use now for all my semi 22lr's and I was a die hard run um wet guy...with the dry lube my guns run better, cleaner for longer. When I do clean this easier as well, 90% of the carbon just wipes off. Originally Posted By shultz: ... The firing pin channel does get dirty especially when using wet lube. Try some Hornady one shot clean and lube. It's all I use now for all my semi 22lr's and I was a die hard run um wet guy...with the dry lube my guns run better, cleaner for longer. When I do clean this easier as well, 90% of the carbon just wipes off. The WD-40 Dry Lube seems to be working pretty well for me. I might try the Hornady once that can is done. Cutting tungsten carbide is a chore. The high speed dremel fiber cutting disks work, just have a hand full handy oh, don't even bother with the cheap, thin pressed cutting disks that come in a tube. Real woven fiber cutting disks.you can also use a good quality dremel diamond cutting wheel. High speed as well, slow cutting, let the wheel do the work and keep it cool. For finishing,chamfering dremel diamond burrs work well. Again high speed and go slow cutting, keep them cool. PPE! Safety glasses and wear a good dust mask. You don't want to breath in carbide or tungsten dust... Thanks for the tips! I've got a handful of diamond cutting wheels. I'm a curious how the reduced diameter of the smaller Amazon rod will work in the carrier. Assuming I retain all my digits, I'll post whatever I can glean. |
Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 5 of 11)
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