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Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 9 of 11)
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Just know that while it may "bench test" ok and appear to work fine, live fire is another thing. I have had several times where (not just 22lr's) bench tested fine, but choked in live fire. However bench testing is still a good plan as if it does not work in bench testing, it will not work in live fire. Bench testing is still part of the process. Just do not get your hopes up too much if it bench tests ok, it still might not run. I’m definitely tempering my expectations! Question - what is the optimal out of battery amount to allow hammer release? Bench testing this morning with the blob of CA passed fine, but if the bolt is back 0.007” from battery it’s a dead trigger since it’s not unlocked. I’m going to grab some fresh JB Weld and build up a pad, but I need to know what number I’m shooting for. I’ll mic the CA first to see where I’m at now. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I did a little more investigating into the disruptor light strike issue this morning. It's the hammer spring. I don't have a good way to measure hammer force. So, I used the pain method  I laid my finger across the lower approximately where the firing pin head would be. Dropped the disruptor hammer several times and its a very weak hit to say the least, like hardly felt... Pulled out my FRT 22lr that has KVP REDUCED POWER hammer, trigger and disco springs. One drop was enough, Huge difference in felt impact. Hopefully the stiffer hammer spring Partisan is testing will be out soon and work. Hell, I'll get two even if I don't end up using a disruptor for 22lr... I had a old dairyland defense 3 position and it too had a light hammer spring. It seemed to work ok on centerfire, but would not light off a 22lr. |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: I'm definitely tempering my expectations! Question - what is the optimal out of battery amount to allow hammer release? Bench testing this morning with the blob of CA passed fine, but if the bolt is back 0.007" from battery it's a dead trigger since it's not unlocked. I'm going to grab some fresh JB Weld and build up a pad, but I need to know what number I'm shooting for. I'll mic the CA first to see where I'm at now. To answer your bolt gap before hammer release question, I don't know. This is uncharted territory... for FA, a good starting point is .080. This may not even be in the ball park for the disruptor... I set my FA trip visually to disengage the safety allowing me to drop the hammer right as the bolt closed as my starting point. Since my upper is well proven to function FRT without bolt bounce, if it didn't function right it would likely be a timing issue and nothing else... |
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Originally Posted By shultz: As long as the safety is disengaging with the bolt fully closed I'd stop there, go test fire it... no point in going farther if all you get is clicks! To answer your bolt gap before hammer release question, I don't know. This is uncharted territory... for FA, a good starting point is .080. This may not even be in the ball park for the disruptor... I set my FA trip visually to disengage the safety allowing me to drop the hammer right as the bolt closed as my starting point. Since my upper is well proven to function FRT without bolt bounce, if it didn't function right it would likely be a timing issue and nothing else... Good point - maybe try shooting it with the CA pad just to see if I get ignition in semi. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I had a old dairyland defense 3 position and it too had a light hammer spring. It seemed to work ok on centerfire, but would not light off a 22lr. Same experience so far with the disruptor. I shot 120rds of barnul made wolf 223 that has thicker/harder primer cups without issue. The few hundred rds of good quality ammo I shot had zero ingition issues as well. Still, I do wish the hammer strike was more forceful. I'll be getting the stiffer spring assuming partisan releases one. I'll trade an increase in trigger pull weight for additional reliability! |
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Got some video in slo mo. I think I am having bolt bounce even with the full ballast load. I have the BB recoil spring tuning kit, does that mean I sould go to the heavier spring? Running with full ballast.  .22 LR with HV ammo and full ballast. As a reference this is what it looks like with no ballast.  22 LR HV no ballast |
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Originally Posted By Mach1run: Got some video in slo mo. I think I am having bolt bounce even with the full ballast load. I have the BB recoil spring tuning kit, does that mean I sould go to the heavier spring? Running with full ballast.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zl--I4NgW8As a reference this is what it looks like with no ballast. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nh4VygkQS_Y. First one looks pretty good, I can't say I see bolt bounce or bolt shift. the final is a toss up between a tiny bounce or the entire conversion shifting...look at your chamber adapter. pull the bolt fully rearward, give the CH a little tug once the bolt bottoms out, did the adapter move rearward? If it did, even a small amount, this can cause problems. Sometimes, a pressure plug is enough. It won't stop the movement entirely but limit it enough during cycling it's not an issue. Ideally, when the upper is closed, the lower meets the upper with nearly zero gap. This sammiches the backplate between the two and locking it in place so the conversion/dedicated bolt assembly cannot move. Tolerances being what they are this is generally not the case This gap is what allows the entire conversion bolt to shift back and forth. I have had to shim the back plate with lower/upper fits that had excessive gap to sammich the backplate, pressure plug alone simply was not enough.If the above doesn't apply. since you're maxed on anti-bounce weight, try a lighter recoil spring to reduce return bolt velocity. Speaking of anti bounce weight. I see it's the 3D printed variety, did you glue the rods in place? If you don't they'll puke out the housing at some point! |
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Just spitballing here as I have zero experience but I've kept up with this thread. Maybe some of the hammer springs are too strong keeping the bolt from fully going to rear and the hammer is not locking back and just following the bolt hence the light strikes. .080 was mentioned for for how far out of battery the bolt was when the trip was released. Maybe posting the out of battery measurement using feeler gauges, gauge blocks or gauge pins(drill bits) could yield some useful info. Again, just spitballing. |
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Video was the best i could do with my phone and auto detect feature to start recording. I might agree it was a trigger issue if not for the fact I had it running 100% before I swapped from 4.5in suppressed to 9in suppressed or unsuppressed. The only this thats changed was the the barrel. All the previous parts were reused. Nothing in the lower was changed at all, just the barrel. I think when I watch the full ballast video I see a tiny bounce right before it stops. But no one at home has any idea what im talking about to give me a 2nd opinion. |
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Tonight I put my CMMG dedicated upper with BB trip and BB weight kit onto the lower with the Partisan Disruptor. I only tried it in semi. It would fire two rounds and then fail to ignite. I would hand cycle to eject the live round. Then it would fire twice again and then fail to ignite again. I would hand cycle to eject the live round and it would fire twice again then fail to ignite. Eject live round and have another failure to ignite. So it seems, as others have stated, the hammer spring is too light. I put the upper back onto the lower that has the Rare Breed and ran a mag with no issues in FRT mode. Attached File Attached File |
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Something else that should be considered is the magazines that are used. Attached File From left to right: CMMG kit mag (medium spring) Very good reliability/functionality but have only used this mag a little. Old CMMG mag (STIFF-est spring) These were the original magazines that came with my dedicated CMMG M4 .22LR carbine when I purchased it years ago, probably around 2005. I think these were designed to work with the CMMG last-round bolt hold open actuator that was to be installed before closing the upper and lower. The follower in these magazines consists of two pieces. The drop-in actuator never really worked that well so I never used it. These mags are VERY difficult to load by hand to full capacity. Attached File Older CMMG-style mag with raised follower and weaker spring Older CMMG-style mag with raised follower and weaker spring - 15 round Both of the mags above are very easy to load and seem to offer the most reliability because they put less drag on the bolt due to weaker springs in spite of the consideration that a stiffer spring would push the next round up for the bolt to catch and load. I’m sure there is a perfect spring tension that is sufficient to ensure feed reliability and introduce minimal drag during operation as the magazine goes from full to empty. These mags seem to meet that specification. The followers are also taller so they catch the bolt after the last round is fired. I seem to get the best reliability using the two mags on the right that have the weaker springs and taller follower. I don’t have any Kris or Black Dog mags to give feedback on. Was hoping somebody would. Would appreciate any experiences that you all have. I think this is a very important consideration that affects reliability. |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: Something else that should be considered is the magazines that are used. ... I seem to get the best reliability using the two mags on the right that have the weaker springs and taller follower. I don’t have any Kris or Black Dog mags to give feedback on. Was hoping somebody would. Would appreciate any experiences that you all have. I think this is a very important consideration that affects reliability. In my experience, once the gun is tuned, Kris mags (15 and 25 rd) with upgraded (heavier) springs run very well, but LRBHO with the BB bolt catch is exceedingly rare in my observation. I think this means I'm getting the equivalent of one dry-fire per mag, which ain't great, but I haven't yet experienced any firing pin related issues. The bolt will lock back fine on an empty mag when using the charging handle, though, so it could be a tuning issue. I've observed that the Black Dog 50rd Drum also runs similarly (maybe very slightly less reliable, but that's just a vague intuition). No hope for LRBHO with the drum, though. As an aside, the Kris mags work really well with the Tippman Arms Speed Loader, which seems like a mandatory piece of kit with an FRT. (I have not tried the Lightnin' Grip Loader.) I found it can be a bit tricky to use the speed loader with the Black Dog drum, but if I relieve the tension on the drum with one thumb during the loading of the first 10 rounds, the rest goes pretty smoothly. Most rounds I've tried work fine with the speed loader, but occasionally I'll get something finicky. For example, some old S&B 38 gr HPs that I have are just a tad long that they need some extra fiddling. This might also be true of some of the heaver/longer bullets used with some subsonics. Some of the wax on CCIs tends to get scraped off, but I've never noticed a reliability issue. |
| The Tippmann speedloader and Black Dog 50 round drum are on my order list! |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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I've used a variety of mags over the years. Some were ok,some very good, some ended up in a trash can... I started with metal Ceiner, I think 30rd(may have been 25rd) mag that came with my kit, I purchased a few more as well. They mostly worked and at the time were the only option as I recall...this was late 90's maybe 2000'ish. BDM(black dog machine) started making mags in the early-mid 2000's, I dont recall exactly. The 15/25rd mags worked better than Ceiner's ever did and were much cheaper! I've pretty much stuck with BDM. Very few issues myself, they just work, for me anyway. I've used a mix of plastic and metal feed lips, prefer plastic myself, they just seem to feed better. All of mine have had the tall LRBHO follower and weaker springs. Old used screws to hold the halfs together, new are sonic welded. I can't say one is better than the other...each is pretty easy to clean. Pull the spring and wash in warm water with dawn dish soap. With all the BDM/plastic mags, lower fitment can be a problem. To loose they won't feed consistent. If I needed to snug up mag fit or shim the feed angle a bit, placing a little piece of the fuzzy part of sticky back velcro in the right spot inside the mag well has always worked for me. Mags may not drop free anymore but feeding well is more important to me semi/FA or FRT, BDM just work well IMHO. I have had few cracked feed lips and mag bodies, never enough to bother with sending them in for replacement. I got my money's worth before they failed.I don't recall when CMMG hit the market... I did try some of thier first mags with poor results. IIRC, these had stiffer springs that caused cycling issues as well as poor feeding. I only had a couple as I recall,they went in the trash. Some time later, I ended up with some gen2, maybe gen3 CMMG mags. These were very much like the BDM mags. Tall followers, not too stiff a spring. These worked fine,still using some of these. I've had a couple BDM 50rd drums for about a decade now. They work fine semi/full auto and of course FRT. I don't use these often...PIA to load. If I could use the lightning loader these would see more use. The effort to load just isn't worth the 25 extra rds. It's literally faster to load and shoot half a dozen 25's using a lightening loader than load a single drum 50 these do not LRBHO if that matters to you.Recently I tried the BDM mags with mag catch inserts that raise/lower mag height. Takes a little time to figure out what catch works with your lower best but once done the mags fit and feed well. Also recently, I picked up some Arms unlimited 15 and 25rd mags. Very much like the BDM/CMMG gen2'ish mags. Tall LRBHO follower with not to stiff springs. These also have worked well for me so far. At $10 a pop, they're a good deal IMHO. Only odd thing is they are HEAVY! Like twice the weight of BDM/CMMG...Who ever makes these didn't give a single fuck about how much plastic was used during molding   I have never bothered with true LRBHO or the associated mags. Reviews indicated to me the LRBHO gizmos were finicky at best. The follower preventing a dry fire at the end of the mag was good enough for me... I've never used S&W 15-22 mags. I was so invested in BDM/CMMG by the time these hit the market it didn't seem worth the cost to switch. |
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I got a notification email from bore buddy saying my upper is shipping back. No mention of anything done to it. So I sent a email to them asking about any updates and if they found any issues, changed any parts, etc.. Here is their response: "It ran fine on our lowers right out of the box you shipped it in, aside from a few light strikes here and there that were resolved by installing the correct firing pin for FRT use (super strike) and the reduced power spring. Your weight was a bit on the heavy side for the lot of mini mags we were shooting. I removed the bolt buffer as well to get better last round bolt hold open." I am not a happy camper. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I got a notification email from bore buddy saying my upper is shipping back. No mention of anything done to it. So I sent a email to them asking about any updates and if they found any issues, changed any parts, etc.. Here is their response: "It ran fine on our lowers right out of the box you shipped it in, aside from a few light strikes here and there that were resolved by installing the correct firing pin for FRT use (super strike) and the reduced power spring. Your weight was a bit on the heavy side for the lot of mini mags we were shooting. I removed the bolt buffer as well to get better last round bolt hold open." I am not a happy camper. 
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I got a notification email from bore buddy saying my upper is shipping back. No mention of anything done to it. So I sent a email to them asking about any updates and if they found any issues, changed any parts, etc.. Here is their response: "It ran fine on our lowers right out of the box you shipped it in, aside from a few light strikes here and there that were resolved by installing the correct firing pin for FRT use (super strike) and the reduced power spring. Your weight was a bit on the heavy side for the lot of mini mags we were shooting. I removed the bolt buffer as well to get better last round bolt hold open." I am not a happy camper. That sounds immensely frustrating. Not that you should have had to do this, but did you ship any of your ammo with it? |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: That sounds immensely frustrating. Not that you should have had to do this, but did you ship any of your ammo with it? No ammo, all they wanted was just the upper and parts. They did not even want the trigger or any of the FRT's. |
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Dedicated .22 upper with 9" CMMG barrel Rare Breed FRT BoreBuddy stainless bolt mass enhancer, with one of each size internal weights: Aluminum and stainless weights inside it. Red spring, no bolt buffer Dead Air mask suppressor Black dog mags Trip sled set to .008" from out of battery. I couldn't get it to run with the chamber adapter and a .223 barrel, tried everything and eventually gave up. Bought a dedicated barrel and that solved it. |
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Originally Posted By RandomNeighbor: Dedicated .22 upper with 9" CMMG barrel Rare Breed FRT BoreBuddy stainless bolt mass enhancer, with one of each size internal weights: Aluminum and stainless weights inside it. Red spring, no bolt buffer Dead Air mask suppressor Black dog mags Trip sled set to .008" from out of battery. I couldn't get it to run with the chamber adapter and a .223 barrel, tried everything and eventually gave up. Bought a dedicated barrel and that solved it. What ammo is working best with this setup? |
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I was using bulk pack Thunderbolts, which surprised me with their reliability. They ran 99% with a binary trigger with this upper, minus an occasional stove pipe on an empty case. It was less happy today with Aguila 38 gr, CCI standard velocity, and Federal bulk pack was useable. I didn't play with weights or springs to get them to work yet. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: @lew Thats a start but you'll need more bits... Borebuddy adjustable super safety trip. You may have success with a 3D printed SS trip, I did not... Borebuddy adjustable bolt weight kit. Base what kit you buy off your barrel length or just get the deluxe kit that includes the SS and aluminum weight housings. You can also try the 3D printed bolt weight housing, the one I got from GMR didn't last a full mag before sending the weights out the back... The above parts are must have. These are helpful and may also be required... Borebuddy pressure plug. Borebuddy recoil spring tuning kit. Borebuddy extractor. Borebuddy superstrike firing pin. Borebuddy tungsten weights if you need more mass, I did not using the deluxe kit and 4.5" barrel. Borebuddy charging handle, helps avoid cases getting stuck in a regular CH, real PIA when it happens not if KVP Reduced power hammer, trigger and disco springs. These may seem counter productive but I've had the best success using them and haven't had any light strike issues so far. Not only do the springs reduce the amount of bolt force needed they enhance the SS reset making the trigger less sensitive to finger pressure. With some or all of that, don't expect 100% function. I'm bumping 99% on a good day. I'd say 95% is closer to average... still fun IMHO. Then again, you may very well end up like Jeeps-and-guns, frustrated and poorer @shultz thanks so much for laying out your setup in detail! It took 2 range trips and I was able to get my 4.5” build burning through full mags of Blazer no problem.  Cornfire FRT 4.5” Balzer 40gr 4.5” RTB + SS Sparrow Cornfire FRT NiB GI style FCG, no cut needed All of the bore buddy goodies except the firing pin (ordered it today). Mimicked Shultz’ setup except I had to swap to a standard hammer spring. Weights: aluminum carrier + 1 lg steel & alum + 1 sm steel & alum Attached File On weaker ammo such as Fed bulk in getting a lot of light strikes and occasionally dead trigger but on Blazer, which is my go-to, it’s ripping! With the superstrike firing pin, I’m going to try Fed bulk and CCI SV again. I may also play with a little more weight to see if that helps with the occasional dead trigger, but as is I have it working >95% w Blazer and I’m pumped about it! |
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Originally Posted By jerz_subbie: @shultz thanks so much for laying out your setup in detail! It took 2 range trips and I was able to get my 4.5" build burning through full mags of Blazer no problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQAsk4jTEJ04.5" RTB + SS Sparrow Cornfire FRT NiB GI style FCG, no cut needed All of the bore buddy goodies except the firing pin (ordered it today). Mimicked Shultz' setup except I had to swap to a standard hammer spring. Weights: aluminum carrier + 1 lg steel & alum + 1 sm steel & alum https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/113818/IMG_1980_jpeg-3722318.JPG On weaker ammo such as Fed bulk in getting a lot of light strikes and occasionally dead trigger but on Blazer, which is my go-to, it's ripping! With the superstrike firing pin, I'm going to try Fed bulk and CCI SV again. I may also play with a little more weight to see if that helps with the occasional dead trigger, but as is I have it working >95% w Blazer and I'm pumped about it! You're not the first to have issues with newer, blue box federal bulk. I'm shooting older red box Federal bulk with excellent results. The newer stuff is not so good from what I've read, I haven't shot any myself. |
| I think I’m going to abandon my attempt to get a Partisan running in my AR22 and wait for a proven drop-in kit of some kind. I don’t mind science projects, but it would be less frustrating if I could go out back to test instead of having to do a whole range trip. |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: I think I’m going to abandon my attempt to get a Partisan running in my AR22 and wait for a proven drop-in kit of some kind. I don’t mind science projects, but it would be less frustrating if I could go out back to test instead of having to do a whole range trip. I dropped my CMMG dedicated upper (that runs very well with a Rare Breed FRT in the factory lower) onto a lower with the Partisan Disruptor in it. It would not run in semi so I never bothered to try super safe mode. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
Still having issue with mine.  So i decided to pull the FRT bits out and make sure its still good, and its not. Nearly every mag the first round the hammer falls but fails to fire. Then it happens randomly once or twice a mag. So next it pull the bolt out and clean the crap out of everything and get it working normally before trying a FRT again. Its great when it does work though lol. |
| .22 LR is very dirty so if you want your gun to run well, you will have to keep it clean. Especially the firing pin and firing channel. Make SURE you pull the pin and clean this area. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: .22 LR is very dirty so if you want your gun to run well, you will have to keep it clean. Especially the firing pin and firing channel. Make SURE you pull the pin and clean this area. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Absolutely! Especially if brrrting suppressed. The amount of gummy powder/carbon residue on the FP and in the channel in just 2-300 hundred rds is a little surprising. If your FP spring dosen't slip out, they usually don't. Make a little hook tool out of thin music wire or even a paper clip to pull it so you can clean the entire channel and clean/inspect the spring. That spring may come out in pieces, keep a few spares on hand. About every 300-600 rds, I use a bamboo toothpick inserted at a slight angle into the front of the firing pin channel to scrape some of the material out. My (light) firing pin spring usually comes out with chunks of solid matter. Some brake cleaner or Hoppes Gun Cleaner on a straw cleaner brush inserted from the rear, and moved back and forth while being twisted takes care of the rest. |
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Question for you guys. I’m cleaning out my bolt for the first time, and noticed that this collar was loose, and this set screw was just floating, several turns away from being tight. Is it meant to be tightened down? Attached File |
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So I have a dedicated tactical solutions upper with a dedicated barrel. Gonna use my partisan trigger lower and black dog and CMMG mags. Do I just need the bore buddy bolt ballast weight kit? If so should I get the gen four adjustable one? Anything else I need to start my project? Thanks Bolt looks like this  |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: So I have a dedicated tactical solutions upper with a dedicated barrel. Gonna use my partisan trigger lower and black dog and CMMG mags. Do I just need the bore buddy bolt ballast weight kit? If so should I get the gen four adjustable one? Anything else I need to start my project? Thanks Bolt looks like this https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20856/IMG_1285-3723974.png Most importantly, you'll need a trip. Bore Buddy makes one that will fit, but you should be aware that the Partisan has a lighter than standard hammer spring, which many folks here have found to fail to ignite 22 ammo. https://borebuddy.com/product/adjustable-trip-kit/ You will almost certainly need a weight kit, and yes Bore Buddy's gen 4 adjustable is a good one. You can choose an aluminum or steel weight body, and aluminum, steel, or lead weights. The lead ones may deform, and get stuck in there. Some on this site have made tungsten weight pins too. Generally, the heavier weights are better. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: So I have a dedicated tactical solutions upper with a dedicated barrel. Gonna use my partisan trigger lower and black dog and CMMG mags. Do I just need the bore buddy bolt ballast weight kit? If so should I get the gen four adjustable one? Anything else I need to start my project? Thanks Bolt looks like this https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20856/IMG_1285-3723974.png Also, as ELittlefield stated. Myself and a few other's are not getting ingition using the disruptor for 22lr. hopefully the soon to be released stronger hammer springs solve this. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I would talk with tacsol and bore buddy before you order anything. I have zero experience with the tacsol bolt, it may work but it's not listed as compatible with the BB auto sear trip or bolt weight. Also, as ELittlefield stated. Myself and a few other's are not getting ingition using the disruptor for 22lr. hopefully the soon to be released stronger hammer springs solve this. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Ok thanks for the advice. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Looking at this view, I don't see your tacsol bolt being compatible with the CMMG/bore buddy trip or bolt weight. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000006440_jpg-3724069.JPG Thinking about this as a start. https://www.righttobear.com/ar-22-kit-rtb-dedicated-22lr-ss-bolt-group-rtb-16-22-ar-barrel-pencil-lightweight-rtb-22-polymer-charging-handle-50rd-drum/ |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Yea looks like I just need to find a CMMG style barrel and bolt to start my 22 upper build. Thinking about this as a start. https://www.righttobear.com/ar-22-kit-rtb-dedicated-22lr-ss-bolt-group-rtb-16-22-ar-barrel-pencil-lightweight-rtb-22-polymer-charging-handle-50rd-drum/ You'll need a pile of stuff from Bore Buddy but I'd hold off on this if you're set on using your disruptor. I'm ordering the stronger hammer springs ASAP, I think a few others are as well. Hopefully the new hammer springs make the disruptor a viable option for 22lr. If not, I'm very pleased with my cornfire MARC/PSA EPT trigger combo. The Atrius/RA140 from what I read is another good combo. These require a different BB trip than the disruptor. Super safety is another option. Mine ran pretty good but the MARC/EPT combo has been more consistent and has a regular selector. The push button didn't bother me, I just prefer a traditional selector. 22lr FRT has been the most challenging to get functioning right. Once you get there, it's a ton of fun! |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: There was no ball in mine. I’ll check my other bolts. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Is there not a spring loaded ball under that screw? Mine has one there and it kinda acts like a ball detent into the groove in the barrel. There was no ball in mine. I’ll check my other bolts. I asked BB about this. Here's their response: That "set screw" is the ball detent. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I got the RTB 9" barrel/bolt combo for my wife's 22lr setup. Zero complaints. I dont think you can go wrong choosing RTB. The BDM drums work fine in my experience. Like any drum, they are a bit of a PIA to load. You'll need a pile of stuff from Bore Buddy but I'd hold off on this if you're set on using your disruptor. I'm ordering the stronger hammer springs ASAP, I think a few others are as well. Hopefully the new hammer springs make the disruptor a viable option for 22lr. If not, I'm very pleased with my cornfire MARC/PSA EPT trigger combo. The Atrius/RA140 from what I read is another good combo. These require a different BB trip than the disruptor. Super safety is another option. Mine ran pretty good but the MARC/EPT combo has been more consistent and has a regular selector. The push button didn't bother me, I just prefer a traditional selector. 22lr FRT has been the most challenging to get functioning right. Once you get there, it's a ton of fun! Thanks |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Might just use a different FRT for my 22 project. Thanks Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Originally Posted By shultz: I got the RTB 9" barrel/bolt combo for my wife's 22lr setup. Zero complaints. I dont think you can go wrong choosing RTB. The BDM drums work fine in my experience. Like any drum, they are a bit of a PIA to load. You'll need a pile of stuff from Bore Buddy but I'd hold off on this if you're set on using your disruptor. I'm ordering the stronger hammer springs ASAP, I think a few others are as well. Hopefully the new hammer springs make the disruptor a viable option for 22lr. If not, I'm very pleased with my cornfire MARC/PSA EPT trigger combo. The Atrius/RA140 from what I read is another good combo. These require a different BB trip than the disruptor. Super safety is another option. Mine ran pretty good but the MARC/EPT combo has been more consistent and has a regular selector. The push button didn't bother me, I just prefer a traditional selector. 22lr FRT has been the most challenging to get functioning right. Once you get there, it's a ton of fun! Thanks I've had the best luck with the Atrius, paired with a Rave 140 trigger. Note that it should be a recent production Rave 140, and I don't know the date cutoff, as detailed in post 2 of this thread: https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Atrius-and-Rise-Armament-Rave-140-combination-reference-thread/130-793052/ |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I've had the best luck with the Atrius, paired with a Rave 140 trigger. Note that it should be a recent production Rave 140, and I don't know the date cutoff, as detailed in post 2 of this thread: https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Atrius-and-Rise-Armament-Rave-140-combination-reference-thread/130-793052/ I might go this route. Thanks for documenting your experience! |
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K ... so ... it's been a bit. I'm posting to announce ... 'nuff success to share my recipe. Rifle: 16" dedicated with KVP Linear Comp; cmmg dedicated conversion; KNS AR15 Buffer Tube to Pic Rail Adapter; M&P 15-22 Mags; Modified* Better Mag Adapter; Bore Buddy Aluminum Adjustable Bolt Weight with 4x Steel weights; Bore Buddy Atrius Trip Sled; Atrius Super Selektor; Rave 140. *Better Mag Adapter clearanced where the Atrius Trip Sled interfered. Been at this maybe 8 months. Turns out I made a wrong turn early on which I finally undid yesterday. Early reports describe successes with the increasingly elusive tungsten sled weights. Had it in my head to "go heavy," so I fretted with steel sled/steel weight failures. I do own the lead weights, but thankfully someone reported their issues before I stuck'm in my weight sled. Well, last week, some saintly soul reported running with the aluminum weight sled. That was the course correction my thick skull required. Don't read much about folks running the 15-22 mags with the BMA. But additional thanks to the saintly souls that pointed out the points of interference with the trip sled. I have other mags but, frankly dislike the idea of stopping a moving bolt with a plastic follower. Yes, I got working LRBHO. I celebrated this small success by ordering a 9" barrel from RTB. With the folding stock attached to the KNS, 16" looks off. And, my Free Form 1 will maybe get approved eventually. |
Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 9 of 11)
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