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3/7/2015 12:22:59 PM EDT
[#1]



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Thank you GThirteen and delirious1!
So, that means the the IR Defense website implies that the MK2 is multi-pallette due to the pictures, which is certainly deceptive.
I'm sorta curious as to why they feel the need to show color options on their MK2 product page...
Granted, it looks like a decent unit, and I'm curious to see how the updated firmware will work out and what it will fix.
Looks like they are 3-5 weeks out right now (I ordered one on Friday).
What I'm still trying to figure out is: on one of the PDF brochure for the IR Hunter Mark 2 it says "Basic Features: EZ-Zoom, Polarity (optional color)"
So, I'm wondering what the "optional color" is...
Now the issue at play is that this is not an IR Defense brochure, but a TNVC one (page 2) [didnt catch that originally]
http://mbd.scout.com/mb.aspx?s=541&f=5512&t=13312959&p=1&random=1991924475878477
Frankly, I wouldn't mind color reticules...  Since it appears the MK2 is not like some of the other devices I've used that auto-inverse the reticle color when you move it from a light object to a dark object, etc.
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It's super confusing, as the VGA output screen is "monochrome."
Q: does the IR Hunter Mark 2 have color reticles or color palettes... Or is it comely gray scale?
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Greyscale.    MK1 had a different core

Thank you GThirteen and delirious1!
So, that means the the IR Defense website implies that the MK2 is multi-pallette due to the pictures, which is certainly deceptive.
I'm sorta curious as to why they feel the need to show color options on their MK2 product page...
Granted, it looks like a decent unit, and I'm curious to see how the updated firmware will work out and what it will fix.
Looks like they are 3-5 weeks out right now (I ordered one on Friday).
What I'm still trying to figure out is: on one of the PDF brochure for the IR Hunter Mark 2 it says "Basic Features: EZ-Zoom, Polarity (optional color)"
So, I'm wondering what the "optional color" is...
Now the issue at play is that this is not an IR Defense brochure, but a TNVC one (page 2) [didnt catch that originally]
http://mbd.scout.com/mb.aspx?s=541&f=5512&t=13312959&p=1&random=1991924475878477
Frankly, I wouldn't mind color reticules...  Since it appears the MK2 is not like some of the other devices I've used that auto-inverse the reticle color when you move it from a light object to a dark object, etc.
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Thanks for pointing this inconsistency out, and I apologize for not catching it sooner. I just sent a message in to IRD and I am sure they will update their website.

 
For the record, the MK II has white hot, black hot, and edge detect with black and white reticle options.




 
3/7/2015 12:53:34 PM EDT
[#2]
That's a ton! That'd be awesome.  I'd love colored reticles... But I more so rather people have a clear idea about what they are looking at and what they are getting.


I had settled in a T-70, a D750, or an IR Hunter MK2.  (Possibly even purchasing two of the three...). When I called I was informed that the MK2 only came in monochrome, which, to be honest confused the crap out me, because the manufacturers website shows all of these cool colored features...

I had a W1000 at one point, and it was effectively monochromatic (green lens), and it worked well enough for sure.

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3/7/2015 1:49:25 PM EDT
[#3]
I've spent many hours behind Flir devices that had color reticles/palettes, and an IRD MK2 that doesn't.  My preference on either device is black hot, I feel that offers the best contrast and definition.  The rainbow, sepia, iron and all the other jazz doesn't do much for me and adds way too much clutter.  The only time I use a color palette is Insta alert, and that is to detect only.  I certainly would not target and shoot on that setting because it will not offer the definition needed for a precise shot.

For a TWS white/black hot is plenty effective and really all I care about.  A scanner on the other hand I might be convinced to add some color, but it isn't a necessity for me.




3/8/2015 1:39:49 AM EDT
[#4]

3/8/2015 11:50:19 AM EDT
[#5]
Color is cool, but I never use them in the field just black and white. MK I does have color reticles, but once again I never use them as my favorite is the black/white mode that changes depending on background.
3/8/2015 12:43:03 PM EDT
[#6]
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Color is cool, but I never use them in the field just black and white. MK I does have color reticles, but once again I never use them as my favorite is the black/white mode that changes depending on background.
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So it DOES change automatically based on the background?!

That's the one think I was concerned about!

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3/8/2015 1:23:19 PM EDT
[#7]
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So it DOES change automatically based on the background?!

That's the one think I was concerned about!

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Yes, it does change.
3/8/2015 2:23:25 PM EDT
[#8]


 








3/8/2015 4:17:08 PM EDT
[#9]
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Noticed your suppressor.  Think that it gives you more shots because of the sound suppression?   I've yet to take my MK II into the field but wonder if the suppressor changes things up.   I use a Mathews z7 extreme to hunt hogs and sometimes can get off 3 shots before the scatter too much.   I don't think they reliaze where I am at first
3/8/2015 10:52:54 PM EDT
[#10]
Hogmageddon

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3/9/2015 1:56:02 PM EDT
[#11]
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Noticed your suppressor.  Think that it gives you more shots because of the sound suppression?   I've yet to take my MK II into the field but wonder if the suppressor changes things up.   I use a Mathews z7 extreme to hunt hogs and sometimes can get off 3 shots before the scatter too much.   I don't think they reliaze where I am at first
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Noticed your suppressor.  Think that it gives you more shots because of the sound suppression?   I've yet to take my MK II into the field but wonder if the suppressor changes things up.   I use a Mathews z7 extreme to hunt hogs and sometimes can get off 3 shots before the scatter too much.   I don't think they reliaze where I am at first


In my experience, with a suppressor, they run after they hear the shot(s), but are often very confused as to what direction the shots came from.  I've got a suppressed 44 Mag bolt gun that is very, very quiet, and they all haul balls when that one shoots, but as often as not, they haul right at you without knowing you're there.
3/10/2015 11:45:07 AM EDT
[#12]
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I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  
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Any ETA on this?
3/10/2015 10:12:59 PM EDT
[#13]
What range are you guys zero-ing your IR Hunter Mk IIs at ? I have an AAC MPW 9" that I am using for hog hunting, shooting mostly 194 grain Lehigh Maximum Expansion subsonics, and every once in a while 110grain Barnes VOR-TX supersonics. Would like to minimize the amount of elevation correction off of bullseye for shots up to 150 yards.
3/10/2015 11:15:04 PM EDT
[#14]
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What range are you guys zero-ing your IR Hunter Mk IIs at ? I have an AAC MPW 9" that I am using for hog hunting, shooting mostly 194 grain Lehigh Maximum Expansion subsonics, and every once in a while 110grain Barnes VOR-TX supersonics. Would like to minimize the amount of elevation correction off of bullseye for shots up to 150 yards.
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100 yards for me.  Knowing I'll have to raise a couple of inches at 50.  Don't plan on making longer shots.   I'd rather walk up closer
3/11/2015 8:44:43 AM EDT
[#15]

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Any ETA on this?
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I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.



http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  






Any ETA on this?
I'll try to get to it today or tomorrow. Thanks for your patience.

 
3/11/2015 9:31:26 AM EDT
[#16]
I'm using the online ballistics calculator from Hornady, and it's saying assuming 100 yard zero, 1.5" scope height, 0.638 BC and 1000ft/s, the bullet would actually impact 3.8 inches high vs POA at 50 yards (ie i would need to aim lower at 50 yards). Does that sound right?

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100 yards for me.  Knowing I'll have to raise a couple of inches at 50.  Don't plan on making longer shots.   I'd rather walk up closer
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What range are you guys zero-ing your IR Hunter Mk IIs at ? I have an AAC MPW 9" that I am using for hog hunting, shooting mostly 194 grain Lehigh Maximum Expansion subsonics, and every once in a while 110grain Barnes VOR-TX supersonics. Would like to minimize the amount of elevation correction off of bullseye for shots up to 150 yards.


100 yards for me.  Knowing I'll have to raise a couple of inches at 50.  Don't plan on making longer shots.   I'd rather walk up closer

3/11/2015 9:54:20 AM EDT
[#17]
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I'll try to get to it today or tomorrow. Thanks for your patience.  
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I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  



Any ETA on this?
I'll try to get to it today or tomorrow. Thanks for your patience.  


It's really much appreciated that you are making the effort.  Really.
3/11/2015 10:41:00 AM EDT
[#18]
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I'm using the online ballistics calculator from Hornady, and it's saying assuming 100 yard zero, 1.5" scope height, 0.638 BC and 1000ft/s, the bullet would actually impact 3.8 inches high vs POA at 50 yards (ie i would need to aim lower at 50 yards). Does that sound right?
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I think your 1.5" sight height is a little low, buddy?  

It should be the height above the boreline?  What platform are you shooting from that the center of the scope is only 1.5" higher than the bore?  Most ARs would be about 3" or so for most optics.
3/11/2015 11:31:12 AM EDT
[#19]
Ahhh you're right. I'm on an AAC MPW 9" SBR. Using a 1.25" rail height above bore, and 1.5" optic height from rail to reticle center (2.75" total), I come up with 3.1" high POI at 50 yards (ie, aim low to adjust).


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I think your 1.5" sight height is a little low, buddy?  

It should be the height above the boreline?  What platform are you shooting from that the center of the scope is only 1.5" higher than the bore?  Most ARs would be about 3" or so for most optics.
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I'm using the online ballistics calculator from Hornady, and it's saying assuming 100 yard zero, 1.5" scope height, 0.638 BC and 1000ft/s, the bullet would actually impact 3.8 inches high vs POA at 50 yards (ie i would need to aim lower at 50 yards). Does that sound right?



I think your 1.5" sight height is a little low, buddy?  

It should be the height above the boreline?  What platform are you shooting from that the center of the scope is only 1.5" higher than the bore?  Most ARs would be about 3" or so for most optics.


3/13/2015 11:39:23 PM EDT
[#20]
Got my bosses MK2 back recently from IR defense.  It was having some glitches deemed a software issue.  It came back with the updated firmware.  

I've been comparing it to mine with the older software to see if there were any noticeable differences.  I did notice the image has more of a amber hue in it now compared to the black and white image I see in my unit.  To be honest I like it better.  It seems easier on the eyes so to speak.  The unit is now running good, and  I'm mounting it up on a rig tomorrow along side mine for a hunt.
3/16/2015 7:01:51 PM EDT
[#21]




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It's really much appreciated that you are making the effort.  Really.
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I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  

Any ETA on this?
I'll try to get to it today or tomorrow. Thanks for your patience.  

It's really much appreciated that you are making the effort.  Really.
I have not forgotten about you. I don't have that little video done for you yet, but I did get this image put together.











 

 
 
3/16/2015 7:49:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Thank you.  So basically, you line up the cross hairs with the picture cross hair?
3/17/2015 4:18:38 AM EDT
[#23]
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I have not fogetten about you. I don't have that little video done for you yet, but I did get this image put together.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/Grid%20Images/MK-II-35mm-Grid-Image_zpsja77sffl.jpg
   
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Are these pictures of the 35 mm or the 19mm??

And why are there 2 "2x zooms" that appear to be at different magnifications with each other?  I don't have an IR Hunter, is one set suppose to be a picture taken with the reticle on and another set a live shot of the scope?

Thanks for taking the time to take these pictures and explain to us how to use them, UNV.

Also, how is that exterior/extended power option coming along?  I'm hoping it will be some kind of lithiu ion chargeable power pack.
3/17/2015 9:14:59 AM EDT
[#24]
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Thank you.  So basically, you line up the cross hairs with the picture cross hair?
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No, the stored picture does not capture the reticle.

What you need to do is have something small, but visible in the picture you capture. Put the cross hair on that object and snap the picture. Then when you "view" that picture later you can move the sights cross hair to sit over that object, effectively "zeroing" the sight.

3/17/2015 9:52:52 AM EDT
[#25]

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Are these pictures of the 35 mm or the 19mm??



And why are there 2 "2x zooms" that appear to be at different magnifications with each other?  I don't have an IR Hunter, is one set suppose to be a picture taken with the reticle on and another set a live shot of the scope?



Thanks for taking the time to take these pictures and explain to us how to use them, UNV.



Also, how is that exterior/extended power option coming along?  I'm hoping it will be some kind of lithiu ion chargeable power pack.
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I have not fogetten about you. I don't have that little video done for you yet, but I did get this image put together.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/Grid%20Images/MK-II-35mm-Grid-Image_zpsja77sffl.jpg

   




Are these pictures of the 35 mm or the 19mm??



And why are there 2 "2x zooms" that appear to be at different magnifications with each other?  I don't have an IR Hunter, is one set suppose to be a picture taken with the reticle on and another set a live shot of the scope?



Thanks for taking the time to take these pictures and explain to us how to use them, UNV.



Also, how is that exterior/extended power option coming along?  I'm hoping it will be some kind of lithiu ion chargeable power pack.
Fixed the image. All these images are from a MK II 2.5X 35mm. The grid shows you what a man sized target looks like at different distances on each digital zoom level. We are also putting together a 19mm grid for comparison.



 
3/17/2015 9:59:26 AM EDT
[#26]
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No, the stored picture does not capture the reticle.

What you need to do is have something small, but visible in the picture you capture. Put the cross hair on that object and snap the picture. Then when you "view" that picture later you can move the sights cross hair to sit over that object, effectively "zeroing" the sight.

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Thank you.  So basically, you line up the cross hairs with the picture cross hair?



No, the stored picture does not capture the reticle.

What you need to do is have something small, but visible in the picture you capture. Put the cross hair on that object and snap the picture. Then when you "view" that picture later you can move the sights cross hair to sit over that object, effectively "zeroing" the sight.



are you guys doing this at close range?  I'm assuming if you do this procedure at 50 yards, then it will be the same at 100 yards.  Meaning if I zero my rifle at 100 yards,   set the crosshairs low at 50 to achieve a 100 yard zero.   Reason I select 50 yards, it's because it seems to be the sharpest picture quality for getting the zero precise.    I used a hand warmer at 100 yards which got me pretty close, but not as clear as it would of been at 50 yards.

So, if I want to use 50 yards to capture my image.   Aim for bullseye and note how low the shots are at 50 and record that distance.     You guys with a video cable, is it possible to download the photo, add a point of reference and upload the image back (maybe label that photo as a certain rifle) and it appear on the MK II?   I don't have have a cable yet.   still waiting on TNVC to deliver.
3/17/2015 10:25:19 AM EDT
[#27]
Here is the MK II 1.5X grid











 
3/18/2015 1:54:58 AM EDT
[#28]
Hooked up my PVS-14 Iphone adapter to my IR Hunter tonight to take a couple clips.  I know a couple folks had asked about minimum focal distances, this might help.

3/18/2015 9:32:00 AM EDT
[#29]
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are you guys doing this at close range?  I'm assuming if you do this procedure at 50 yards, then it will be the same at 100 yards.  Meaning if I zero my rifle at 100 yards,   set the crosshairs low at 50 to achieve a 100 yard zero.   Reason I select 50 yards, it's because it seems to be the sharpest picture quality for getting the zero precise.    I used a hand warmer at 100 yards which got me pretty close, but not as clear as it would of been at 50 yards.

So, if I want to use 50 yards to capture my image.   Aim for bullseye and note how low the shots are at 50 and record that distance.     You guys with a video cable, is it possible to download the photo, add a point of reference and upload the image back (maybe label that photo as a certain rifle) and it appear on the MK II?   I don't have have a cable yet.   still waiting on TNVC to deliver.
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Thank you.  So basically, you line up the cross hairs with the picture cross hair?



No, the stored picture does not capture the reticle.

What you need to do is have something small, but visible in the picture you capture. Put the cross hair on that object and snap the picture. Then when you "view" that picture later you can move the sights cross hair to sit over that object, effectively "zeroing" the sight.



are you guys doing this at close range?  I'm assuming if you do this procedure at 50 yards, then it will be the same at 100 yards.  Meaning if I zero my rifle at 100 yards,   set the crosshairs low at 50 to achieve a 100 yard zero.   Reason I select 50 yards, it's because it seems to be the sharpest picture quality for getting the zero precise.    I used a hand warmer at 100 yards which got me pretty close, but not as clear as it would of been at 50 yards.

So, if I want to use 50 yards to capture my image.   Aim for bullseye and note how low the shots are at 50 and record that distance.     You guys with a video cable, is it possible to download the photo, add a point of reference and upload the image back (maybe label that photo as a certain rifle) and it appear on the MK II?   I don't have have a cable yet.   still waiting on TNVC to deliver.


You'll have to excuse me delirious, I'm not sure whether you're asking about zeroing your weapon by shooting or using the stored picture.

If you are talking about using the stored picture, I don't believe it matters what the range was you used to capture the picture. All you are trying to do is have a known location in the picture that you can move the reticle to, the error in the actual Point Of Impact (POI) of rounds at the range the picture was taken is immaterial. For example, I believe you could zero at 200 yards and then put a heat source at 100 ft and snap a picture with the cross hairs directly centered on the heat source. Then, when you want to re-zero simply view that image and move the reticle to the center of the saved pictures heat source and you will have your 200 yard zero back.

Of course, the ranges I picked are completely arbitrary.

If I'm wrong, UNV will probably come back and correct my statements...
3/18/2015 9:47:32 AM EDT
[#30]
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You'll have to excuse me delirious, I'm not sure whether you're asking about zeroing your weapon by shooting or using the stored picture.

If you are talking about using the stored picture, I don't believe it matters what the range was you used to capture the picture. All you are trying to do is have a known location in the picture that you can move the reticle to, the error in the actual Point Of Impact (POI) of rounds at the range the picture was taken is immaterial. For example, I believe you could zero at 200 yards and then put a heat source at 100 ft and snap a picture with the cross hairs directly centered on the heat source. Then, when you want to re-zero simply view that image and move the reticle to the center of the saved pictures heat source and you will have your 200 yard zero back.

Of course, the ranges I picked are completely arbitrary.

If I'm wrong, UNV will probably come back and correct my statements...
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Thank you.  So basically, you line up the cross hairs with the picture cross hair?



No, the stored picture does not capture the reticle.

What you need to do is have something small, but visible in the picture you capture. Put the cross hair on that object and snap the picture. Then when you "view" that picture later you can move the sights cross hair to sit over that object, effectively "zeroing" the sight.



are you guys doing this at close range?  I'm assuming if you do this procedure at 50 yards, then it will be the same at 100 yards.  Meaning if I zero my rifle at 100 yards,   set the crosshairs low at 50 to achieve a 100 yard zero.   Reason I select 50 yards, it's because it seems to be the sharpest picture quality for getting the zero precise.    I used a hand warmer at 100 yards which got me pretty close, but not as clear as it would of been at 50 yards.

So, if I want to use 50 yards to capture my image.   Aim for bullseye and note how low the shots are at 50 and record that distance.     You guys with a video cable, is it possible to download the photo, add a point of reference and upload the image back (maybe label that photo as a certain rifle) and it appear on the MK II?   I don't have have a cable yet.   still waiting on TNVC to deliver.


You'll have to excuse me delirious, I'm not sure whether you're asking about zeroing your weapon by shooting or using the stored picture.

If you are talking about using the stored picture, I don't believe it matters what the range was you used to capture the picture. All you are trying to do is have a known location in the picture that you can move the reticle to, the error in the actual Point Of Impact (POI) of rounds at the range the picture was taken is immaterial. For example, I believe you could zero at 200 yards and then put a heat source at 100 ft and snap a picture with the cross hairs directly centered on the heat source. Then, when you want to re-zero simply view that image and move the reticle to the center of the saved pictures heat source and you will have your 200 yard zero back.

Of course, the ranges I picked are completely arbitrary.

If I'm wrong, UNV will probably come back and correct my statements...


ok, that explains it much better.   I didn't know if variables like distance and zoom made a difference.  If it's just the picture, then taking a picture of a heat source right in my garage will suffice.   as long as there's a consistent point of reference.    I really appreciate the explanation.   Yes, I was referring to using the stored picture.

how are your guys getting the pictures off the MK II?   is that what the video cable does?   is there some sort of USB connection?  Or how does this work.  To be honest, I got my unit and with the weather being so rainy lately, I haven't gotten to the deer lease to try it.   (wet fields, I can't fill feeders)
3/18/2015 11:55:55 AM EDT
[#31]
       

 
 
3/18/2015 1:04:03 PM EDT
[#32]
Is anyone using the Mark 2 Hunter as a clip on? If so can you please comment on what type of day optic you are using as well as how much magnification of the day optic is usable with Mark 2?

Also, do we know if any low-power variable scope will work in clip on mode provided it's mount places it exactly 1.5" above the rail? I thought I remembered hearing discussion of a list of compatible day optics? Maybe I missed seeing that list?

My ideal scenario would be more to use the Hunter as a dedicated scope on one AR rifle and to use it as a clip on on a second AR rifle. Assuming the return to zero is acceptable on the non clip-on rifle.

Thanks.
3/18/2015 1:10:10 PM EDT
[#33]
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Is anyone using the Mark 2 Hunter as a clip on? If so can you please comment on what type of day optic you are using as well as how much magnification of the day optic is usable with Mark 2?

Also, do we know if any low-power variable scope will work in clip on mode provided it's mount places it exactly 1.5" above the rail? I thought I remembered hearing discussion of a list of compatible day optics? Maybe I missed seeing that list?

My ideal scenario would be more to use the Hunter as a dedicated scope on one AR rifle and to use it as a clip on on a second AR rifle. Assuming the return to zero is acceptable on the non clip-on rifle.

Thanks.
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I paired mine up with a vortex razor Gen II 1-6 with a larue LT104 mount, which puts it in the right position.    It works.   1-2 power and you can still see most of the surrounding information.   More than than that and you loose the menus.   I'll never use it this way.   It's heavy.    But you can.   Any variable power 1-4 or 1-6 will work provided the right height of 1.5 inches is achieved.    You can scoot the scope the right distance from the IR hunter in it's mount to achieve the adequate distance between the two.
3/18/2015 1:31:07 PM EDT
[#34]
Perfect answer, thanks. That's the exact scope mount I was planning on using.
3/18/2015 1:41:34 PM EDT
[#35]
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Perfect answer, thanks. That's the exact scope mount I was planning on using.
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on a 308.  weight can be taxing

3/19/2015 1:23:49 AM EDT
[#36]
Can anyone snap a picture of the view obstruction by an A2 FH?
3/19/2015 10:48:30 AM EDT
[#37]
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Can anyone snap a picture of the view obstruction by an A2 FH?
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I can tonight.  It almost co-witnesses, but really it just puts a big fuzzy pillar covering part of the screen.
3/19/2015 12:50:18 PM EDT
[#38]
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I can tonight.  It almost co-witnesses, but really it just puts a big fuzzy pillar covering part of the screen.
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Can anyone snap a picture of the view obstruction by an A2 FH?


I can tonight.  It almost co-witnesses, but really it just puts a big fuzzy pillar covering part of the screen.


Thanks. You rock dude. Maybe one at low power and one at zoom?
3/20/2015 2:31:42 PM EDT
[#39]



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Quoted:
Any ETA on this?
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Quoted:



I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  

Any ETA on this?
Finally got around to it.



https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ
 

 
3/20/2015 2:54:27 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote History
Quoted:
Finally got around to it.
https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ

   
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  



Any ETA on this?
Finally got around to it.
https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ

   


Fantastic video.   I am very happy to know how to do this.  Opens up several more rifles and now I'm having dreams of mounting the MKII on my FVSR with spectre II for some quiet rat shooting in the back yard.   Love it!   Thanks
3/20/2015 2:55:49 PM EDT
[#41]

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Quoted:
Fantastic video.   I am very happy to know how to do this.  Opens up several more rifles and now I'm having dreams of mounting the MKII on my FVSR with spectre II for some quiet rat shooting in the back yard.   Love it!   Thanks
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Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:


Quoted:

I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.



http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  






Any ETA on this?
Finally got around to it.

https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ



   




Fantastic video.   I am very happy to know how to do this.  Opens up several more rifles and now I'm having dreams of mounting the MKII on my FVSR with spectre II for some quiet rat shooting in the back yard.   Love it!   Thanks




 
+1
3/20/2015 3:07:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote History
Quoted:
Finally got around to it.
https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ

   
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  



Any ETA on this?
Finally got around to it.
https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ

   


Oh fuck that's cool. So how many "zeros" can the optic maintain?

Does it lose them when you swap batteries?
3/20/2015 3:16:02 PM EDT
[#43]
edit
3/20/2015 3:19:57 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote History
Quoted:



Oh that's cool. So how many "zeros" can the optic maintain?

Does it lose them when you swap batteries?
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/tnadair/ARFCOM/EE6420EA-BA56-4EE0-9C04-C9DDE4E984F1_zpshrz2u769.jpg  



Any ETA on this?
Finally got around to it.
https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ

   



Oh that's cool. So how many "zeros" can the optic maintain?

Does it lose them when you swap batteries?


Swapping batteries will retain the images.   So, I bet you can get as many captures as the scope will hold.   Lots...

The lower picture in green is a capture off my 308.  Taken with my iPhone since I don't have a video cable yet.  Plan on labeling that 308 and keeping it on my iPhone as a reminder.   I'll set up something different for another rifle so I can do the same thing.   Otherwise I'll forget which is which
3/20/2015 3:28:07 PM EDT
[#45]
It looked like there were little numerals min the video. Or is that for something else?
3/20/2015 3:43:39 PM EDT
[#46]
Here's another way to get a hot point with basics.  Spent case stuck into a card board box.  Heat for 5 seconds.   I did ten and it was too much.   Aim for the black dot and then go mark the bullet hole as the point of impact with another spent case and heat it up.  Then you have two hot points of reference for adjusting the reticle



3/20/2015 3:46:06 PM EDT
[#47]

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Quoted:


Here's another way to get a hot point with basics.  Spent case stuck into a card board box.  Heat for 5 seconds.   I did ten and it was too much.   Aim for the black dot and then go mark the bullet hole as the point of impact with another spent case and heat it up.  Then you have two hot points of reference for adjusting the reticle



http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/freedell/ar/43F786E3-BAAA-4586-A181-B3795789DE3D_zps8wosyi41.jpg



http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/freedell/ar/76C608E9-8FCF-47E9-81DF-6D9982CD4FE7_zps3klggbro.jpg
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3/20/2015 3:51:56 PM EDT
[#48]
Here's that same case 5 minutes later after the case had completely cooled down.   Notice my hand print in the upper left ( 10 o'clock ) after I touched the box only for a few seconds

3/20/2015 3:54:38 PM EDT
[#49]



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Here's my results.   I heated a soldering iron and put it on top of a chair about 40 feet from my Caldwell shooting tripod in the garage to a chair in the kitchen
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/freedell/ar/2cc8a2e2b0a0900e6f40613075a8d5f8_zpse7ac24ea.jpg
Soldering iron pointed at the rifle
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/freedell/ar/49042eac17471a5f932e1366407c9148_zpsde95c9f5.jpg
Capture
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/freedell/ar/d8bddf8e2541a6fcbf29cbd33e16fc9a_zps87708781.jpg
View Quote
That looks like it will work very nicely!






Another way to verify you POA would be to count clicks. Make sure to count your clicks on the same digital zoom level each time because the digital zoom level changes click values. 4X digital zoom on the 35mm MK II is .3 moa per click, which is close enough for my use.  



 

 
3/20/2015 4:33:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Good to know

I've got visions of my 300 blackout, subsonics, suppressor, and coons dancing in my head.   Opens up more options

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