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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Wet tumbling with SS media, lots of pics New info second post 10-02-2015. (Page 5 of 23)
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I'm getting sick of dealing with traditional tumbling media because it invariably spills out of the tumbler or the cases and gets all over everything.
Besides this method avoiding those problems, I really like how it cleans the insides of the cases. Oh well, one more things to add to "The List".  Thanks for taking the time to post pics.Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Got mine all together and ran a batch of 223 and batch of 45 ACP. Both came out as clean as new with a 4 hour tumble. I have seen some ideas for dryers but cannot recall where? Can anyone direct me to a thread related to dryers? I mainly would like a good way to dry the media so I can store it all out of the way quicker. The oven dries the brass pretty quick. Here is my Thread on drying cases using an electric dehydrator. 
Now that winter is back, I'm using the top of my woodstove in my workshop. Takes 15 - 20 minutes. |
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Quoted: Pretty sure you know already but if you dry the brass with an oven, you have to keep the temps low or you will anneal the whole case which would be a bad thing.Got mine all together and ran a batch of 223 and batch of 45 ACP. Both came out as clean as new with a 4 hour tumble. I have seen some ideas for dryers but cannot recall where? Can anyone direct me to a thread related to dryers? I mainly would like a good way to dry the media so I can store it all out of the way quicker. The oven dries the brass pretty quick. |
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Re-read the first page (twice) and I still don't see the specs for the motor. Maybe I'm dumb. Can someone help a dumb brother out please? No your not dumb, I thought it was there. My bad. I know it was discussed somewhere in the thread.........but where? What you need to know is buy the High Speed model. Motor RPM is 3000, tumble time is 4 hours. Slow Speed model has a 1500 RPM motor, tumbling time is 8 hours. I have one of each. Both are 120 VAC, 60 HZ. Only difference between the two is the motor speed, and tumble time. |
| Great info, I had a bin of dirty .223 range pick up brass, I got a 2.5 gallon bucket, dumped lemi shine / dawn regular and water, brass went in, closed the bucked, mixed it up many times, let it sit for 3 hours, brass came out looking very very good! Not like the tumbled with media stuff, but good enough for bulk .223 ball loading in my mini-14, thank you! |
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Pretty sure you know already but if you dry the brass with an oven, you have to keep the temps low or you will anneal the whole case which would be a bad thing.
Got mine all together and ran a batch of 223 and batch of 45 ACP. Both came out as clean as new with a 4 hour tumble. I have seen some ideas for dryers but cannot recall where? Can anyone direct me to a thread related to dryers? I mainly would like a good way to dry the media so I can store it all out of the way quicker. The oven dries the brass pretty quick. Yup, kept it about 150 on the thermometer in the oven. |
| I placed my brass in a Kitty litter tray seperator with holes on the bottom, dripped dry for a few hours, then when i pulled my car into the garage, I popped the hood and placed the brass on top of my air cleaner, got it hot, got it dry, no plastic melting, I was happy! talk about re-cycle your heat... :) |
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Yea, it’s always good to find a way to save on your energy bill. Using a woodstove like dryflas3 is a great idea as is using your engine heat. I use the fan from my basement dehumidifier to dry mine as it is on most of the time anyway. I would say avoid using anything that involves using a heating element like a oven or hair dryer as they are really inefficient in terms of energy use vs heat output and just tends to ding your energy bill which is over inflated already nowadays. |
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i just rinse with tap then put in a gallon container with some distilled water. shake it up some. then pull some out and put on a towel. shake that up to knock most of the water out. then rub towel over them for a min and then stand up on end to dry over night.
no cost to dry and i dont have to spend money on a shake weight lol |
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can anyone provide some insight as to if there are larger containers you can run with?
i want to go to this setup, i love the fact that it cleans the brass so nicely but if i can only do 250 .223 cases at a time, it kind of turns me off on the idea. how much can that thumlers model b hold as far as .45acp, 223, 9mm and 308 go? i would hope it can hold 500 or so 308 and 1000 223 at a time. |
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Wow I just posted a thread about polishing media and was given a link to this, I am SOLD! I just got into reloading with a 550B setup and was looking for info on polishing brass. I have a couple of questions; How long will the stainless media last? I plan on just leaving the brass out to air dry, will it hurt to leave the primers in until I reload them or will that impair the drying process? I have been using a regular tumbler and cleaning the brass with the primer still in until I get ready to load them and I would like to be able to do the same with this is possible. Lastly, are the links on the first page to the tumbler and media still the best sites to purchase from or has someone found a cheaper place?
thanks! |
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Wow I just posted a thread about polishing media and was given a link to this, I am SOLD! I just got into reloading with a 550B setup and was looking for info on polishing brass. I have a couple of questions; How long will the stainless media last? Until you lose it. It doesn't wear out or rust. I plan on just leaving the brass out to air dry, will it hurt to leave the primers in until I reload them or will that impair the drying process? It will slow down the drying process greatly. If you don't deprime first, you are giving up clean primer pockets. If you try both ways, you will soon deprime before tumbling. I have been using a regular tumbler and cleaning the brass with the primer still in until I get ready to load them and I would like to be able to do the same with this is possible. Lastly, are the links on the first page to the tumbler and media still the best sites to purchase from or has someone found a cheaper place? Try Sinclair, someone posted they sell the tumbler and media as a kit. You will at least save on shipping buying both items from the same vender. thanks! |
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Thanks for the quick reply, about to place my order now, Sinclair is out of stock so I will just order both from Buffalo.
I'd really like to be able to leave the primers in when doing bulk pistol brass, I wonder if anyone is doing this? Also, how loud is it when running compared to standard tumblers? |
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I'd really like to be able to leave the primers in when doing bulk pistol brass, I wonder if anyone is doing this? I tried it with the primers in...once. As dryflash says you'll soon deprime first. Unless you want to wait forever for the brass to dry Also, how loud is it when running compared to standard tumblers? I find it to be much quiter, probably about 1/2 the noise of my vibratory. |
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Quoted: Thanks for the quick reply, about to place my order now, Sinclair is out of stock so I will just order both from Buffalo. I'd really like to be able to leave the primers in when doing bulk pistol brass, I wonder if anyone is doing this? Also, how loud is it when running compared to standard tumblers? I deprime for my rifle brass since I shoot precision and a clean primer pocket is important, but never deprime for my pistol brass. The reason is I use a turret press and depriming before SS-media will add a step to the process and slow the whole thing big time. The other reason is there is no need to deprime for pristol since the straight wall stuff dries easily even without being deprimed and a clean primer pocket is not important for pistol reloading. It is louder but if you put a soft pad under it and on a hard surface, it is never a problem. |
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Thanks for the quick reply, about to place my order now, Sinclair is out of stock so I will just order both from Buffalo. I'd really like to be able to leave the primers in when doing bulk pistol brass, I wonder if anyone is doing this? Also, how loud is it when running compared to standard tumblers? I deprime for my rifle brass since I shoot precision and a clean primer pocket is important, but never deprime for my pistol brass. The reason is I use a turret press and depriming before SS-media will add a step to the process and slow the whole thing big time. The other reason is there is no need to deprime for pristol since the straight wall stuff dries easily even without being deprimed and a clean primer pocket is not important for pistol reloading. It is louder but if you put a soft pad under it and on a hard surface, it is never a problem. Thanks that is what I was needing to know. I was hoping not have to deprime pistol ammo before tumbling, thanks! |
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There are sealed, "wet safe" vibratory tumblers on the market, such as this Harbor Freight model. Would it be possible to use the wet process/stainless media with one of those?
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Had a question, could you do the same with a Berry's tumbler or is that intended for dry media only? New to all of this and I do not want to destroy my tumbler if I throw in a bunch of water in it. Vibrating tumbler = don't use it with water. Rotary tumbler + wet media. |
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Quoted: Quoted: There are sealed, "wet safe" vibratory tumblers on the market, such as this Harbor Freight model. Would it be possible to use the wet process/stainless media with one of those?Quoted: Had a question, could you do the same with a Berry's tumbler or is that intended for dry media only? New to all of this and I do not want to destroy my tumbler if I throw in a bunch of water in it. Vibrating tumbler = don't use it with water. Rotary tumbler + wet media. Hard to say without trying it with the media. Theoretically it might work since it handles at least the same weight i.e. 18lbs compared to 15lb (for Thumler’s Tumbler) but the agitation action is different. BTW, I just noticed that STM is now advertising a new 40lb large rotary tumbler, but it is priced at $674.95! |
| I just bought the thumlers last week. Im so glad I went that route. I bought a vibrating tumbler as well to have when I start rifle. Amazing how clean the stainless gets that brass. I run 400 .40 rounds at a time. I have around 8k more cases to go. Finally have my press together and tuned. Did my very first batch of ammo tonight. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Im so excited!! |
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I just bought the thumlers last week. Im so glad I went that route. I bought a vibrating tumbler as well to have when I start rifle. Amazing how clean the stainless gets that brass. I run 400 .40 rounds at a time. I have around 8k more cases to go. Finally have my press together and tuned. Did my very first batch of ammo tonight. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Im so excited!! Glad to help you find your way to bling brass. Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. 
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Since I'm in the market for a tumbler - I've only been using the pickling method and borrowing a friends media tumbler - I'm in. This looks like the most efficient method yet.
My question (and hopefully this hasn't been covered, I did a quick scan of the thread) but does the stainless media diminish the life of the brass? I think I'm going the STM route that sells the package deal. ETA: Nevermind, Buffalo seems to have a better deal. |
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Since I'm in the market for a tumbler - I've only been using the pickling method and borrowing a friends media tumbler - I'm in. This looks like the most efficient method yet. My question (and hopefully this hasn't been covered, I did a quick scan of the thread) but does the stainless media diminish the life of the brass? I think I'm going the STM route that sells the package deal. ETA: Nevermind, Buffalo seems to have a better deal. Not that I can tell, but I'm only 7 months in. The guys that have done wet tumbling for a couple of years report no such problems. |
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Since I'm in the market for a tumbler - I've only been using the pickling method and borrowing a friends media tumbler - I'm in. This looks like the most efficient method yet. My question (and hopefully this hasn't been covered, I did a quick scan of the thread) but does the stainless media diminish the life of the brass? I think I'm going the STM route that sells the package deal. ETA: Nevermind, Buffalo seems to have a better deal. Not that I can tell, but I'm only 7 months in. The guys that have done wet tumbling for a couple of years report no such problems. To be quite honest, I doubt it will matter much for me but I'm glad to know that there aren't any known issues as of yet. Just completed my order from STM. Went ahead with the kit for $260 - should be here Friday. I called prior to making the order and the gentleman on the phone gave me a discount code (hide10) for $10 off. It may have been cheaper to order from multiple places but it would have been a pain - one stop shopping is what I like. Now the wait begins. |
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Ok, I'll chime in. I have had a Thumler's Model B, with the slow motor for the last 20 years. Now that I see this thread, I am going to have to buy a new liner and rubber top for mine, since it is dry and cracked. I duct taped the lid cover, which worked fine for the dry method.
As for the drive belt/O-Ring part, I have been buying vacuum cleaner belts at Walmart whenever mine wears out. Take the old one with you and you can find one for about half the cost of the usual ones made for the tumbler. Mine hasn't required any adjustment, as the belts fit like the original. The package on mine says its for a Eureka and has RD on the front. On the back is a number, 65100. They come 2 to a pack. When I get my liner and top in, I'll have to post some pics with the results. |
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Ok, I'll chime in. I have had a Thumler's Model B, with the slow motor for the last 20 years. Now that I see this thread, I am going to have to buy a new liner and rubber top for mine, since it is dry and cracked. I duct taped the lid cover, which worked fine for the dry method. As for the drive belt/O-Ring part, I have been buying vacuum cleaner belts at Walmart whenever mine wears out. Take the old one with you and you can find one for about half the cost of the usual ones made for the tumbler. Mine hasn't required any adjustment, as the belts fit like the original. The package on mine says its for a Eureka and has RD on the front. On the back is a number, 65100. They come 2 to a pack. When I get my liner and top in, I'll have to post some pics with the results. Thanks so much for that information on the belt. |
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Since I'm in the market for a tumbler - I've only been using the pickling method and borrowing a friends media tumbler - I'm in. This looks like the most efficient method yet. My question (and hopefully this hasn't been covered, I did a quick scan of the thread) but does the stainless media diminish the life of the brass? I think I'm going the STM route that sells the package deal. ETA: Nevermind, Buffalo seems to have a better deal. Not that I can tell, but I'm only 7 months in. The guys that have done wet tumbling for a couple of years report no such problems. To be quite honest, I doubt it will matter much for me but I'm glad to know that there aren't any known issues as of yet. Just completed my order from STM. Went ahead with the kit for $260 - should be here Friday. I called prior to making the order and the gentleman on the phone gave me a discount code (hide10) for $10 off. It may have been cheaper to order from multiple places but it would have been a pain - one stop shopping is what I like. Now the wait begins. Stock up on Lemishine and dawn while you wait.
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My process is as follows: 1- Walnut shell cleaning for 1 hour 2- spray Dillon lube in gallon ziplock- 5 shots 3- add brass and shake the bag around for a minute 4- dump brass in casefeeder 5- deprime, size/trim (RT1200) 6- neck size with expander cut down slightly. This step helps eliminate any burr on the inside of the neck, and opens the mouth SLIGHTLY. 7- remove case lube with mineral spirits and walnut shell. I prep a LOT of brass to this point then switch to the wet cleaning. This may sound like a lot of work, but nothing requires handling individual pieces of brass except swaging at this point if needed. Also, brass can be used as-is or wet cleaned. I modded my Dillon vibratory tumbler so it does not leak, and clean using Cabela's ceramic beads. I get similar results to those using stainless in about 2 hours. After tumbling I seperate media and brass, then rinse brass in a collander. I then drain it and pour it out on a towel. After that I use a blow dryer on it for about five minutes and then let it air dry further in my garage. |
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My process is as follows: 1- Walnut shell cleaning for 1 hour 2- spray Dillon lube in gallon ziplock- 5 shots 3- add brass and shake the bag around for a minute 4- dump brass in casefeeder 5- deprime, size/trim (RT1200) 6- neck size with expander cut down slightly. This step helps eliminate any burr on the inside of the neck, and opens the mouth SLIGHTLY. 7- remove case lube with mineral spirits and walnut shell. I prep a LOT of brass to this point then switch to the wet cleaning. This may sound like a lot of work, but nothing requires handling individual pieces of brass except swaging at this point if needed. Also, brass can be used as-is or wet cleaned. I modded my Dillon vibratory tumbler so it does not leak, and clean using Cabela's ceramic beads. I get similar results to those using stainless in about 2 hours. After tumbling I seperate media and brass, then rinse brass in a collander. I then drain it and pour it out on a towel. After that I use a blow dryer on it for about five minutes and then let it air dry further in my garage. Not sure why you posted this in a wet tumbling thread. If you don't want to wet tumble fine. Start your own thread on your fast method. |
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My process is as follows: 1- Walnut shell cleaning for 1 hour 2- spray Dillon lube in gallon ziplock- 5 shots 3- add brass and shake the bag around for a minute 4- dump brass in casefeeder 5- deprime, size/trim (RT1200) 6- neck size with expander cut down slightly. This step helps eliminate any burr on the inside of the neck, and opens the mouth SLIGHTLY. 7- remove case lube with mineral spirits and walnut shell. I prep a LOT of brass to this point then switch to the wet cleaning. This may sound like a lot of work, but nothing requires handling individual pieces of brass except swaging at this point if needed. Also, brass can be used as-is or wet cleaned. I modded my Dillon vibratory tumbler so it does not leak, and clean using Cabela's ceramic beads. I get similar results to those using stainless in about 2 hours. After tumbling I seperate media and brass, then rinse brass in a collander. I then drain it and pour it out on a towel. After that I use a blow dryer on it for about five minutes and then let it air dry further in my garage. Not sure why you posted this in a wet tumbling thread. If you don't want to wet tumble fine. Start your own thread on your fast method. Sorry for not being explicit, but I was discussing wet cleaning in my last 2 paragraphs. I was only trying to help, as always. |
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Well, I got my stainless media in today. Got my first batch tumbling now. One thing I can't understand, is how to get a gallon of water in the drum.
I have the Model B tumbler. I put the 5lbs of media in the drum, then tried to put in 1 gal of hot water, but it came up to within an inch of the top of the barrel, without any brass. So, I dumped the water, added 2lbs of brass, a shot of dawn, about a 2 sec+ squirt, and a 45Colt case of lemishine. Then, added water to almost 3/4s full. Put the top on and fired it up. I'll let it run a couple of hours and check it. In the meantime, I am  why I couldn't get the full gallon of water in there. Are you guys using a larger drum than the standard Model B uses?
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With cases and media in drum, just fill to within 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the top. I never got 1 gallon of water in the drum either. Doesn't matter, it works without measuring. 
If you think the motor mount vibrates too much on your tumbler, add a bracket to support the rear of the motor. In for a pic of you first wet tumbled cases. 
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| I have a question about SS/wet tumbling. Does anyone do steel cases, and if so, how rusted of a case can it clean? And in the process does it strip all the plasticish coating off the steel? I have a collection of less then perfect range pickups that my dry tumbler can't clean, just wondering if I should keep saving them for when I upgrade to wet, or chuck 'em because they can't be saved even with SS. |
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Quoted: I have a question about SS/wet tumbling. Does anyone do steel cases, and if so, how rusted of a case can it clean? And in the process does it strip all the plasticish coating off the steel? I have a collection of less then perfect range pickups that my dry tumbler can't clean, just wondering if I should keep saving them for when I upgrade to wet, or chuck 'em because they can't be saved even with SS. Never done steel case, but my guess is that you will face two problems. The biggest one is rust. Although the media can indeed abrade oxiation off surfaces, If you tumble non-stainless steel in hot water with acid (Lemishine), it will also cause rusting which shows up very rapidly i.e. hours. The second potential problem is as you say the coating which normally allow the case to be release from the chamber after firing might come off. I would say dump them. |
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Well, I got my stainless media in today. Got my first batch tumbling now. One thing I can't understand, is how to get a gallon of water in the drum. I have the Model B tumbler. I put the 5lbs of media in the drum, then tried to put in 1 gal of hot water, but it came up to within an inch of the top of the barrel, without any brass. So, I dumped the water, added 2lbs of brass, a shot of dawn, about a 2 sec+ squirt, and a 45Colt case of lemishine. Then, added water to almost 3/4s full. Put the top on and fired it up. I'll let it run a couple of hours and check it. In the meantime, I am why I couldn't get the full gallon of water in there. Are you guys using a larger drum than the standard Model B uses?
You're making this way too hard. Put the ingredients in the tumbler, fill to about half with hot water, stir if needed, add brass, add pins, and then add enough water to cover everything. If you start with too much water, dump a little out before adding the stainless pins. I finished a couple of batches of LC NM brass yesterday morning before I left for work. My wife thinks "cooking bullets" is funny. I have to break down and buy a fine mesh strainer. The only one I've been able to find that I want is $9! Right now I have a piece of mesh fabric inside an old metal collander, and although it works pretty well, pins get trapped in the folds. I added an ounce or so of white vinegar to the mix for these batches I did over the weekend. It was sitting there handy, so in it goes. I'm still soaking the brass about an hour or so before I start tumbling, and four hours is plenty. I could use a couple more tumblers in order to get through all the brass I have on hand, but it will have to wait. I like the results, but I'm still not crazy about wet tumbling and the extra (wet) steps. I'm sacrificing for my art! |
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That is right, it is not rocket science and approximate volumes within reason is good enough – suppress the Type A urge to measure accurately, you will live longer –  I leave the pins in the tumbler after I use it with most of the water drained out. Next time I use it, I just dump the approximate amount of brass it is rated for, a medium pinch of Lemishine, fill with hot water up to about 1” to the top, a generous squirt of Dawn and it is ready to go and always works. This from a guy who made his living sitting behind an analytical balance weighting compounds accurately to the milligram - LOL! AeroE, I am curious as to why you are thinking of using a mesh strainer? |
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That is right, it is not rocket science and approximate volumes within reason is good enough – suppress the Type A urge to measure accurately, you will live longer –
I leave the pins in the tumbler after I use it with most of the water drained out. Next time I use it, I just dump the approximate amount of brass it is rated for, a medium pinch of Lemishine, fill with hot water up to about 1” to the top, a generous squirt of Dawn and it is ready to go and always works. This from a guy who made his living sitting behind an analytical balance weighting compounds accurately to the milligram - LOL!
AeroE, I am curious as to why you are thinking of using a mesh strainer?
I pour the contents of the tumbler out into my separator. If I pour water and all, then the pins still have to be strained out of the water in the tub. I prefer to strain all the contents of the tumbler, then dump the pins and cases into the separator. Some pins are left behind in the tumbler, most go into the separator tub. |
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Quoted: Quoted: That is right, it is not rocket science and approximate volumes within reason is good enough – suppress the Type A urge to measure accurately, you will live longer – I leave the pins in the tumbler after I use it with most of the water drained out. Next time I use it, I just dump the approximate amount of brass it is rated for, a medium pinch of Lemishine, fill with hot water up to about 1” to the top, a generous squirt of Dawn and it is ready to go and always works. This from a guy who made his living sitting behind an analytical balance weighting compounds accurately to the milligram - LOL! AeroE, I am curious as to why you are thinking of using a mesh strainer? I pour the contents of the tumbler out into my separator. If I pour water and all, then the pins still have to be strained out of the water in the tub. I prefer to strain all the contents of the tumbler, then dump the pins and cases into the separator. Some pins are left behind in the tumbler, most go into the separator tub. I guess you must not rinse the brass/pin mix in the tumbler like I do. Because if you rinse the brass/pin mix while they are still in the tumbler (6x), then they are basically clean before I pour the whole mix into my separator. With some water on the bottom of the separator’s tub, a few rotations will get all the pins out (assuming we are talking about straight wall stuff), then I just pour the brass into the drying tray and the pins back into the tumbler. For rifle bottle neck brass, I have not found any easy way to separate the brass from the pins without dipping my hand in and shaking the brass with their necks pointing down in water to get out the pins. |
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Ok, pics are up. This stuff rocks!!! First, I was in a hurry to try it, so I didn't have but a couple of hours to let it run. I also have an old Model B, so that means its the 1550RPM motor.
This is what I started with. Not too bad, but a good first test run. 
A couple of hours later... And this is what came out! 
This first run was dead on at 2lbs of brass, and it turned out to be exactly 201 cases. I now have the second batch running, and added a few more cases this time around. It still looks like the barrel is about half full, with pins and brass. I got so excited, I forgot to try some bottle necked cases, just to see how they do. I was going to toss in one or two, just to see how they do. Wish I had done this sooner. Dryflash, I have the older model with the slow motor, and it doesn't vibrate much at all. If I do run it on a countertop or hard surface, I throw a piece of carpet under it, and it quiets right down. |
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I recommend you decap all that brass and get the primer pockets dried to avoid corrosion.
If the primer cups corrode badly, they will fail and tear out instead of coming out in one piece. You missed the most important advantage of this method - clean primer pockets. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Wet tumbling with SS media, lots of pics New info second post 10-02-2015. (Page 5 of 23)
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