Armory Sponsor
81mm Mortar barrel/tube/build info (Page 11 of 15)
|
The only part of mine that break are the fuze sections, but I also have some more "solid" nose sections that have been fired multiple times without any breakage. My wall thickness varies. About .180 at the thinnest though. I try to do stress analysis in my head of where the most likely break point are and beef them up. |
|
Range report: First, I made sure to level the cross bar on my bipod and that definitely made the rounds fly true. I shot 2 3D printed rounds @ 65° with 25gr. They went about 30 and 40yds. I lost 1 nose piece. I loaded my Mk1 fin with a 35gr charge and fired the round that was missing the nose. It went about 100yds and broke. I'm pretty sure that it hit a tree on the way down so that may have been what broke it. Attached File After some struggle getting the spent hull out, I loaded the other 3d printed round with 35gr and fired @ 70°. It went about 60yds and lawn darted. The nose attachment piece broke, but otherwise it stayed intact. Attached File I did notice that my primers were popping out on the rounds, not that it matters. Finally, I loaded a 50 gr charge in one of my M880 rounds with the TRUMP style fuse tip (I haven't finished the whole fuse.). At 65° it went about 25ft... I wasn't paying attention and grabbed one without an obturating ring, I guess it does make a difference. Lol |
|
Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: Could you modify the body design to have a separate piece that the tail attaches to and that threads into the body? If it broke there again you could field repair it with a spare piece instead of trashing the whole body. Perhaps, but in this instance I'm not sure what it would matter. Lateral stress is going to make it snap across the layers. Hitting a tree while it's still going forward is probably going to destroy anything 3D printed. This body was trashed anyway. |
Turns out that they make a product specific for this application.  Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Turns out that they make a product specific for this application. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/60540/1000003451_png-3314648.JPG Funny enough, I've actually been using mortar mix for mine. Not sure it's the best as it is slightly soft, maybe I added too much water? But it takes a long time to fully harden. I will say I hit some trees and mine didn't break  , but my trees are probably smaller haha. Are you printing solid infill? It looks as if your broken one isn't solid or has layer adhesion issues. I sure am going through a lot of spools when printing these things. I really need to get a line on some 3kg spools. |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Finally, I loaded a 50 gr charge in one of my M880 rounds with the TRUMP style fuse tip (I haven't finished the whole fuse.). At 65° it went about 25ft... I wasn't paying attention and grabbed one without an obturating ring, I guess it does make a difference. Lol Have you tried 3d printing obturating rings? I have a single original ring that I got off of a round that sat outside for decades. So it's probably a little brittle. But I was thinking of printing some out of PLA+ and maybe Nylon. But I also don't have any rounds that use them yet. So it's very low on my priority list. And I see that ordnance/Vega is making them again (though 25c each and not relying on a single source is really nice). |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Funny enough, I've actually been using mortar mix for mine. Not sure it's the best as it is slightly soft, maybe I added too much water? But it takes a long time to fully harden. I will say I hit some trees and mine didn't break , but my trees are probably smaller haha. Are you printing solid infill? It looks as if your broken one isn't solid or has layer adhesion issues. I sure am going through a lot of spools when printing these things. I really need to get a line on some 3kg spools. Yeah, this one went into the woods, I almost gave up looking for it. My buddy that printed it said he did 100% infill,but it doesn't look like it. Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Have you tried 3d printing obturating rings? I have a single original ring that I got off of a round that sat outside for decades. So it's probably a little brittle. But I was thinking of printing some out of PLA+ and maybe Nylon. But I also don't have any rounds that use them yet. So it's very low on my priority list. And I see that ordnance/Vega is making them again (though 25c each and not relying on a single source is really nice). I have not, another thing about the M880 is that it has holes in the base (like the black and white ones, but smaller) my buddy said they only go a couple hundred meters anyway. I'm going to plug those and see what happens. The 3D printed ones are great and cheap, but there is something satisfying about the sound of a steel round going down the tube. |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Have you tried 3d printing obturating rings? I have a single original ring that I got off of a round that sat outside for decades. So it's probably a little brittle. But I was thinking of printing some out of PLA+ and maybe Nylon. But I also don't have any rounds that use them yet. So it's very low on my priority list. And I see that ordnance/Vega is making them again (though 25c each and not relying on a single source is really nice). Vega has obturating rings on their website. I wouldn't be surprised if you could find the same part on McMaster-Carr for less as well. The inert rounds I have don't have obturating rings. The older rounds use multiple indented rings to obturate with gases and the venturi principle. That might be a better design for 3d printed rounds. |
|
Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: The inert rounds I have don't have obturating rings. The older rounds use multiple indented rings to obturate with gases and the venturi principle. That might be a better design for 3d printed rounds. Yeah that's another reason why I based my design on the m49, though I stretched the tail slightly, not as much as the m49e4 or the newer rounds. But I wouldn't be opposed to finding some newer style surplus rounds to use. Though they aren't "supposed" to be used in older style mortars. |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: But I wouldn't be opposed to finding some newer style surplus rounds to use. Though they aren't "supposed" to be used in older style mortars. I think that restriction is more based on the propellant than the projectile itself. I have an M374 inert round inbound. A friend sourced it at a local surplus shop. I got it for a reference to model rounds off of, but I may shoot it at some point. |
|
Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: I think that restriction is more based on the propellant than the projectile itself. Yeah that was the consensus I came to as well. Some of the transitional rounds even said they could be used with the M2/M19 up to a certain charge-#. So it is definitely pressure related and I would plan on shooting that far. My shorter rounds take up less room in the ammo crate though 😄 |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Yeah that's another reason why I based my design on the m49, though I stretched the tail slightly, not as much as the m49e4 or the newer rounds. But I wouldn't be opposed to finding some newer style surplus rounds to use. Though they aren't "supposed" to be used in older style mortars. Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: The inert rounds I have don't have obturating rings. The older rounds use multiple indented rings to obturate with gases and the venturi principle. That might be a better design for 3d printed rounds. Yeah that's another reason why I based my design on the m49, though I stretched the tail slightly, not as much as the m49e4 or the newer rounds. But I wouldn't be opposed to finding some newer style surplus rounds to use. Though they aren't "supposed" to be used in older style mortars. They can, but it's mostly a powder load issue. The older M1s weren't designed to handle the modern powder loads that are used with modern shells. Edit: beat, but image is from a tech manual for the 81mm M374 rounds (long body shell). 
|
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Yeah, this one went into the woods, I almost gave up looking for it. My buddy that printed it said he did 100% infill,but it doesn't look like it. I have not, another thing about the M880 is that it has holes in the base (like the black and white ones, but smaller) my buddy said they only go a couple hundred meters anyway. I'm going to plug those and see what happens. The 3D printed ones are great and cheap, but there is something satisfying about the sound of a steel round going down the tube. Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Funny enough, I've actually been using mortar mix for mine. Not sure it's the best as it is slightly soft, maybe I added too much water? But it takes a long time to fully harden. I will say I hit some trees and mine didn't break , but my trees are probably smaller haha. Are you printing solid infill? It looks as if your broken one isn't solid or has layer adhesion issues. I sure am going through a lot of spools when printing these things. I really need to get a line on some 3kg spools. Yeah, this one went into the woods, I almost gave up looking for it. My buddy that printed it said he did 100% infill,but it doesn't look like it. Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: Have you tried 3d printing obturating rings? I have a single original ring that I got off of a round that sat outside for decades. So it's probably a little brittle. But I was thinking of printing some out of PLA+ and maybe Nylon. But I also don't have any rounds that use them yet. So it's very low on my priority list. And I see that ordnance/Vega is making them again (though 25c each and not relying on a single source is really nice). I have not, another thing about the M880 is that it has holes in the base (like the black and white ones, but smaller) my buddy said they only go a couple hundred meters anyway. I'm going to plug those and see what happens. The 3D printed ones are great and cheap, but there is something satisfying about the sound of a steel round going down the tube. The M880 round was designed so they can play with "increment loads" for various distances on charge 0. Max range is about 538 yds with the "increment plugs" in. I suspect they also serve a second purpose, they allow the gases and the audible explosion to escape from the PD fuze when the round sticks into the ground. This is just me, but I wouldn't weld them up, I'd just 3d print some plastic plugs like the factory ones. Might have to play around with how tight the plugs can be so they don't just fall off when firing. Could probably epoxy (something that won't leave a residue on the shell like silicone) them in place.  You can download the manual for these here. https://pdf4pro.com/download/tm-9-1315-252-12-amp-p-operator-s-and-unit-8c830.html |
|
Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: The M880 round was designed so they can play with "increment loads" for various distances on charge 0. Max range is about 538 yds with the "increment plugs" in. I suspect they also serve a second purpose, they allow the gases and the audible explosion to escape from the PD fuze when the round sticks into the ground. This is just me, but I wouldn't weld them up, I'd just 3d print some plastic plugs like the factory ones. Might have to play around with how tight the plugs can be so they don't just fall off when firing. Could probably epoxy (something that won't leave a residue on the shell like silicone) them in place. https://i.imgur.com/dVVJ2Yk.png You can download the manual for these here. https://pdf4pro.com/download/tm-9-1315-252-12-amp-p-operator-s-and-unit-8c830.html Thanks for the link. Since the holes are small, I was planning on tapping them and plugging them with set screws or button heads. |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Thanks for the link. Since the holes are small, I was planning on tapping them and plugging them with set screws or button heads. Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: The M880 round was designed so they can play with "increment loads" for various distances on charge 0. Max range is about 538 yds with the "increment plugs" in. I suspect they also serve a second purpose, they allow the gases and the audible explosion to escape from the PD fuze when the round sticks into the ground. This is just me, but I wouldn't weld them up, I'd just 3d print some plastic plugs like the factory ones. Might have to play around with how tight the plugs can be so they don't just fall off when firing. Could probably epoxy (something that won't leave a residue on the shell like silicone) them in place. https://i.imgur.com/dVVJ2Yk.png You can download the manual for these here. https://pdf4pro.com/download/tm-9-1315-252-12-amp-p-operator-s-and-unit-8c830.html Thanks for the link. Since the holes are small, I was planning on tapping them and plugging them with set screws or button heads. No problem. |
|
Attached File Not too bad. I can get it mostly back with some vice grips. It went about 75-80yds 65° 35gr. |
|
Shot a little at an event this weekend. My Italian round was going down the tube really slow. Had 2 misfires at 60° One thing that I found interesting was that my 3d printed round (~3lb) went almost the same distance as the Italian round (~6lb). My theory is that the extra windage in the 3D round leads to lower pressure and is balanced out between the two. |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Shot a little at an event this weekend. My Italian round was going down the tube really slow. Had 2 misfires at 60° One thing that I found interesting was that my 3d printed round (~3lb) went almost the same distance as the Italian round (~6lb). My theory is that the extra windage in the 3D round leads to lower pressure and is balanced out between the two. We're you cleaning/swabbing the tube it between a firing group? Also, any plastic residue in the barrel that could have slowed down the Italian round? |
|
The very first round was slow. After the first misfire I swabbed the tube with a wadded up tshirt (I wasn't really expecting to shoot, so I didn't bring my brush.) the round was a little dirty but I wiped it down. It fired (barely) at 65° ETA, it seemed to be a crowd pleaser. |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: The very first round was slow. After the first misfire I swabbed the tube with a wadded up tshirt (I wasn't really expecting to shoot, so I didn't bring my brush.) the round was a little dirty but I wiped it down. It fired (barely) at 65° ETA, it seemed to be a crowd pleaser. Yes it was We will talk this winter...cause I want a mortar now since I can't have a cannon ,  what part would be the serialized part if you form 1'd the whole thing? Can you make one complete? and just serial number the part with the firing pin in it?
|
Originally Posted By TacticalGarand44:
Bring it. Our side has a hundred billion bullets. Your side doesn't know which bathroom to piss in.
Bring it. Our side has a hundred billion bullets. Your side doesn't know which bathroom to piss in.
|
Originally Posted By bansil: Yes it was We will talk this winter...cause I want a mortar now since I can't have a cannon , what part would be the serialized part if you form 1'd the whole thing? Can you make one complete? and just serial number the part with the firing pin in it?The cup is the receiver. There is nothing legally preventing you from building one from scratch. If you aren't concerned with "real" calibers i.e. 60/81/120mm there are a lot of stock tubing sizes you could use. |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: I'll have to try one out with just dry cement to see how it goes. I'm pretty sure I am using thicker walls in my shells as well. Same problem we had with White Phosphorus rounds, they were required to be stored vertically in the ready rack on the M125A2 81mm an M106A3 4.2in 107mm Mortar Carriers. And isn't cement powder flammable? Capable of causing a dust explosion if the shell ruptures, making a cement dust cloud, potentially ignited by an impact report charge. (there's a whole chapter on using Dust to increase the power of whatever energetics you have on hand, to destroy a building etc.) |
1995 M1025A2 5SFG GMV 2A11C
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
|
Originally Posted By stoner63a: The problem with dry cement is, it isn't solid, it can become unevenly distributed in the cavity, cause the round to be out of balance, reducing your range, and effecting your accuracy. Same problem we had with White Phosphorus rounds, they were required to be stored vertically in the ready rack on the M125A2 81mm an M106A3 4.2in 107mm Mortar Carriers. And isn't cement powder flammable? Capable of causing a dust explosion if the shell ruptures, making a cement dust cloud, potentially ignited by an impact report charge. (there's a whole chapter on using Dust to increase the power of whatever energetics you have on hand, to destroy a building etc.) Originally Posted By stoner63a: Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: I'll have to try one out with just dry cement to see how it goes. I'm pretty sure I am using thicker walls in my shells as well. Same problem we had with White Phosphorus rounds, they were required to be stored vertically in the ready rack on the M125A2 81mm an M106A3 4.2in 107mm Mortar Carriers. And isn't cement powder flammable? Capable of causing a dust explosion if the shell ruptures, making a cement dust cloud, potentially ignited by an impact report charge. (there's a whole chapter on using Dust to increase the power of whatever energetics you have on hand, to destroy a building etc.) Cement powder is not flammable. WP is a solid below 110°, but melts to liquid above 110°. The risk with WP is if it melts while the round is on its side, then re-solidifies. The round would then be imbalanced. Concrete powder wouldn't have this issue. Especially if it was packed in and filled the entire cavity. |
Just thought I'd share. The guys at Ordnance.com posted a video of them firing a 120mm mortar with their T.R.U.M.P. fuze on the modified surplus combloc rounds. Can't imagine how much of a pain it'd be to move around.   ?? FIRST FIRING ?? of LARGEST CIVILIAN OWNED MORTAR in USA - 120mm Artillery #military #army #edc #USA |
|
Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Just thought I'd share. The guys at Ordnance.com posted a video of them firing a 120mm mortar with their T.R.U.M.P. fuze on the modified surplus combloc rounds. Can't imagine how much of a pain it'd be to move around.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsFGNeu0ydYIt's... Beautiful... BTW looks like Bowman has more mortars on the way. Attached File |
|
Cool accessory even if incomplete. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
"They want you dead but will settle for your submission" - Malice
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Shot my Mk3 3D printed round today. Worked well, so I'll print another 5 and do a real range day. I could not get the Italian round to fire, even at 70° it's just too slow going down the tube. Any idea why? Also, have you tried the blue training rounds? |
|
Originally Posted By juan223: Cool accessory even if incomplete. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight1_jpg-3367592.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight2_jpg-3367593.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight3_jpg-3367594.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight4_jpg-3367595.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight5_jpg-3367596.JPG Nice, just need the lens/scope. |
|
Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Any idea why? Also, have you tried the blue training rounds? No idea, the last time I tried it was slow and I had multiple misfires. I thought maybe it was from dirt/debris. But I swabbed the tube and cleaned the round. I have fired one blue round. I'm wondering if I need some extras ballast in the Italian one. |
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: No idea, the last time I tried it was slow and I had multiple misfires. I thought maybe it was from dirt/debris. But I swabbed the tube and cleaned the round. I have fired one blue round. I'm wondering if I need some extras ballast in the Italian one. Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Any idea why? Also, have you tried the blue training rounds? No idea, the last time I tried it was slow and I had multiple misfires. I thought maybe it was from dirt/debris. But I swabbed the tube and cleaned the round. I have fired one blue round. I'm wondering if I need some extras ballast in the Italian one. Might be the best option. |
Had some more fun with the 81. Got to see the rounds coming from the targets pov. Tried to capture them mid flight on the phone but i lost track of them through the screen. But was still able to see them with the naked eye. They make a nice whistile sound incoming, you can barely hear it in the vid. 81MM mortar  81MM target pov Grouping is about 14ft at the longest from round to round. This was with a 50gr charge.   These two were at 60gr lift charges and about 9ish ft apart. They stabilized better coming out of the tube than with 50gr. Definitely gonna try more grains next time. 60grs required 66.5 degrees of elevation for them to land at 200yds. 50grs is 50 degrees of elevations on the tube for 200yds. |
|
Originally Posted By juan223: Cool accessory even if incomplete. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight1_jpg-3367592.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight2_jpg-3367593.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight3_jpg-3367594.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight4_jpg-3367595.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/137019/Sight5_jpg-3367596.JPG 9/11 changed that. You used to be able to mail your Elcan OS4 Scope back to Elcan-Canada to have the Tritium replaced for the vertical recticle. But not anymore. Even the old UK MOD Beta Lights can't be imported anymore. |
1995 M1025A2 5SFG GMV 2A11C
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
|
Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Had some more fun with the 81. Got to see the rounds coming from the targets pov. Tried to capture them mid flight on the phone but i lost track of them through the screen. But was still able to see them with the naked eye. They make a nice whistile sound incoming, you can barely hear it in the vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOxu0q-6bhc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl7blRNy5poGrouping is about 14ft at the longest from round to round. This was with a 50gr charge. https://i.imgur.com/ccBHhtz.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/q63Siyd.jpeg These two were at 60gr lift charges and about 9ish ft apart. They stabilized better coming out of the tube than with 50gr. Definitely gonna try more grains next time. 60grs required 66.5 degrees of elevation for them to land at 200yds. 50grs is 50 degrees of elevations on the tube for 200yds. I think I already wrote about my experience on a live fire 4.2in mortar shoot at Ft Drum( HHC 3/102nd AR NJARNG 1988 annual training), trying to get a steel on steel hit on one of the M59 APCs or M48 Tanks in the impact area, the Gunner using the M30 4.2in Mortar in Direct Fire mode. The 4.2in HE rounds have the nitroglycerine/parafin wax "cheese charges" with the Firing Tables breaking down the increments into 1/8th of a sheet( Total of 38 or 41 Charges depending on which HE Rd, 2 sheets sewn together = 1 Charge, you tear off a corner 1/4 of one sheet to reduce it by 1/8th) we tried going down to 1/16 of a sheet but the rounds kept bracketing the target. But striving for some sort of Civilian Mortar Olympics, one can probably do a deep dive into the minutiae involved, the consistent quality control printing or lost-string casting your projo parts, etc. Even Skydivers can't always land right onto the X. |
1995 M1025A2 5SFG GMV 2A11C
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
1995 M1025A2 1SFG GMV 5
1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 0014 "Horney Toad"
|
Originally Posted By MHIDPA: @SGT-Fish I think I just came across your YouTube channel. I'm Chevtec Group on YouTube. Make sure you check the "shorts" on my channel Here is a video my buddy did of us shooting mortars over the weekend. I'll post some more info on how my printed rounds held up. We abused them pretty good and even got direct hits on a truck. I had my 60mm and my buddy had his 81, 50, and 45mm mortars. He has used a couple of the 50mm of my design with good results as well. Consensus is that the fins need a little beefing up, but the printed fins should pretty much be expected to need replacing after 3-6 shots depending on what you are hitting. The printed bodies showed no damage and neither did the metal stem of the fins.  ECNS 2024 Mortars More info coming. I may start a separate thread |
|
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: I'm Chevtec Group on YouTube. Make sure you check the "shorts" on my channel ... More info coming. I may start a separate thread Yep, for some reason the algorithm thinks I want to watch mortar videos... Imagine that. If you start a separate thread, be sure to let us know here. |
|
Originally Posted By stoner63a: 9-14ft is probably reasonable, considering just how difficult it was to actually get a "steel on steel" hit on the 81mm or 4.2in Mortars. Its an "area-effect" weapon, the "casualty radius" of the round more important the pin point accuracy. I think I already wrote about my experience on a live fire 4.2in mortar shoot at Ft Drum( HHC 3/102nd AR NJARNG 1988 annual training), trying to get a steel on steel hit on one of the M59 APCs or M48 Tanks in the impact area, the Gunner using the M30 4.2in Mortar in Direct Fire mode. The 4.2in HE rounds have the nitroglycerine/parafin wax "cheese charges" with the Firing Tables breaking down the increments into 1/8th of a sheet( Total of 38 or 41 Charges depending on which HE Rd, 2 sheets sewn together = 1 Charge, you tear off a corner 1/4 of one sheet to reduce it by 1/8th) we tried going down to 1/16 of a sheet but the rounds kept bracketing the target. But striving for some sort of Civilian Mortar Olympics, one can probably do a deep dive into the minutiae involved, the consistent quality control printing or lost-string casting your projo parts, etc. Even Skydivers can't always land right onto the X. Originally Posted By stoner63a: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Had some more fun with the 81. Got to see the rounds coming from the targets pov. Tried to capture them mid flight on the phone but i lost track of them through the screen. But was still able to see them with the naked eye. They make a nice whistile sound incoming, you can barely hear it in the vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOxu0q-6bhc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl7blRNy5poGrouping is about 14ft at the longest from round to round. This was with a 50gr charge. https://i.imgur.com/ccBHhtz.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/q63Siyd.jpeg These two were at 60gr lift charges and about 9ish ft apart. They stabilized better coming out of the tube than with 50gr. Definitely gonna try more grains next time. 60grs required 66.5 degrees of elevation for them to land at 200yds. 50grs is 50 degrees of elevations on the tube for 200yds. I think I already wrote about my experience on a live fire 4.2in mortar shoot at Ft Drum( HHC 3/102nd AR NJARNG 1988 annual training), trying to get a steel on steel hit on one of the M59 APCs or M48 Tanks in the impact area, the Gunner using the M30 4.2in Mortar in Direct Fire mode. The 4.2in HE rounds have the nitroglycerine/parafin wax "cheese charges" with the Firing Tables breaking down the increments into 1/8th of a sheet( Total of 38 or 41 Charges depending on which HE Rd, 2 sheets sewn together = 1 Charge, you tear off a corner 1/4 of one sheet to reduce it by 1/8th) we tried going down to 1/16 of a sheet but the rounds kept bracketing the target. But striving for some sort of Civilian Mortar Olympics, one can probably do a deep dive into the minutiae involved, the consistent quality control printing or lost-string casting your projo parts, etc. Even Skydivers can't always land right onto the X. Yeah, I was just messing around with trying to gauge a group size that I could get. Lined up the mortar to the aiming post after each shot. |
Black powder 60mm? Failed To Load Title |
I sell firearms produced by the finest child labor in the world, be it Filipino, Muslim, Mormon, Arizonan, or Texan.
|
Fun stuff. I can remember the days on the range at Drum and getting bored with dropping rounds. We drew plenty of ammunition. HE for us and Illum for the DATs. 
|
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
|
Originally Posted By stoner63a: Dang! You have the difficult part, the Elbow, Telescope should be obtanium, even if you have to ask to buy overseas, without the Tritium illumination... 9/11 changed that. You used to be able to mail your Elcan OS4 Scope back to Elcan-Canada to have the Tritium replaced for the vertical recticle. But not anymore. Even the old UK MOD Beta Lights can't be imported anymore. Hehe, yea. It's just a dust collector at this point. |
"They want you dead but will settle for your submission" - Malice
81mm Mortar barrel/tube/build info (Page 11 of 15)
Armory Sponsor