Having watched several utubers on the griffin gate lok I noticed on the mounting the can, at least all the videos I found, there were excessive rotation of the suppressor. I have a simple solution that requires nothing more than a few minutes. I will ask @MrGreen to add any detrimental comments if he thinks it is necessary.

Let’s start with muzzle devices. There is no way for Griffin to control the wrench flats on A1/A2 compatible devices made by other manufacturers. I have 2 Griffin gate lok hammer comps. Let’s see what kind of tolerances they hold.

@11B3XCIB

Mounted Griffin Hammer comp-

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2nd on hand Griffin hammer comp-

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Random A1-

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Random A2-

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Post limitation requires a second post below.

The fix is simple. Loosen the 2 allen head screws here.

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Mount muzzle device and press on the latch and tighten the screws. Makes a world of difference. I have removed 99.9% of any play.

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If you have a really sloppy A1 or A2 mount you can remove any flash left over from manufacturing here.

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Mounted and rock solid..

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That’s awesome

I think an M4SDK or L is in my future

I really wish there was something for the generic YHM phantom.

EDIT: After further examination, they don't work.

My Griffin A2 adapter for Hub fits YHM Phantoms (the flat face ones, not the ones with the points at the end).

I’ll have to try that. I assumed the Phantom FH were too long.

EDIT: After further examination, they don't work.

I have a couple that are pinned and welded. I was very pleased to see that it fit properly and tightened down.

These are real YHM Phantoms stamped with the YHM logo. There are some clones out there, so it might not fit those.

I just tried what I have. My YHM plain front phantom FH are 2 3/16” long. I have to use the forward groove and only get about half thread engagement and the rear of the flash hider slots are exposed. I wonder if there are different versions that are shorter.

I don't know who "MrGreen" is, I think the guy you're looking for is @Green0 - the problem I run into isn't an undersized mounting point but an oversized one. Maybe half the A2 devices I have are oversize; the lock won't close on them on my early M4SDII.

I've largely relegated that can to one-off things I don't shoot much and/or don't want to invest more money into by spending $$$ for a Xeno or Keymo muzzle device; I've got a couple Griffin devices, and a couple of A2s that fit, so it's easy enough to move them around as needed. It's not a bad can by any means but it is a bit dated and doesn't really have any upgrade paths, so it's one of those "I may as well abuse it until it fails, or something" cans...

You're right. I just tried mine. Same thing. I thought I tested those.  Now I need to pull a few Phantoms and P&W some taper mounts on there (or just form 1 them).  

Sorry for the mis-information.

Bummer. I was hoping you found something that works. I could probably turn about 60 thou off the front of the Phantom FH and the slots wouldn’t be visible (but might still leak gas). But if the FH is already pinned & welded that’s more involved.

Yeah. I saw the error for Green0 but knew he is here often and would see the thread regardless. And don’t hurt my feelings, I have 2 M4SDK. Is the mount the only thing that turns you off about the suppressor or is there something more? How’s the sound? My first one I received just last week. The second will ship next week or 2. Plan to use one of them on a BCM 12.5”. Shouldn’t be too bad I hope.

@Evil_Ed

The sound suppression on the M4SDk is excellent. I mostly use 12.5” guns, but I’ve used it on 11.3”-16”. The baffle update a few years ago improved backpressure and maybe even wear characteristics.

The can I have is an early one from circa 2015 or something. The M4SDII line has undergone several revisions since then.

It sounds fine, and honestly it's not like I could tell it apart from anything else if you lined 10 different cans up and shot them in a row.

The main reason I got the can was because it could attached to A2 muzzle devices...and it turned out to really only attached to a fraction of the ones I had. They also didn't/don't sell anything that really looks like an A2 (they recently introduced their "closed tine" flash hider which comes close to the profile...but that didn't exist until like half a year or so ago? I think?). And I get it, every other can requires you to buy new muzzle devices...just this one was sold with having A2 compatibility - implying one wouldn't need to wholesale replace all their muzzle devices to use it on everything. I didn't want to replace all the muzzle devices to use it, and it turned out I wound up pretty much having to do that anyway. And like I said, to add a little insult to that, they didn't make any kind of an analogous replacement to an A2...so if you wanted to keep "the look" that your rifle had and use the can, you either needed to hunt down an A1 or A2 that fit it, or replace the muzzle device with something that looked wildly out of place.

If none of that matters to you, then don't sweat it - the system's a good system. It's never once come off, and even using A2 devices it's never gotten a baffle strike or anything. It's always aligned perfectly. Just make sure you use shims and not crush washers. Peel washers like on 90s Colts are fine.

I never found any of the rotational movement an issue; it can rotate all it wants for all I care - I care more about if it moves up/down/left/right than if it rotates, and it doesn't move in any of those directions when mounted.

Understood. I have a half dozen or more A1/A2 and it fit everyone so like you I didn’t want to change that many muzzle devices. Will use the included hammer comp on the shortest barrels. That’s the reason I bought the blast shield in advance to test fit on the mounts.

FWIW - all my factory Colt uppers it fit on just fine, with factory peel washers (most of them are pretty old )

It was all my homebrew uppers with DPMS or other random grab bag A2s that presented issues.

So I wouldn't necessarily categorize it as a "This is a Griffin" issue - more like there's a wider variance on parts than the mount can reasonably accept. Which is fine, I can't really fault them on that - I just wish I knew about that particular limitation up front rather than having to find out the hard way. Again, probably not something Griffin could have cautioned against, either - it's not like they have access to every A2 muzzle device from every manufacturer in the world from all time...how could they test? All they have are TDP prints of what it "should" be, but who knows if State Factory 48 in ZenShou, China actually adheres to that..

There’s a standard for A2 diameters and groove dimensions. Some manufacturers don’t care about that because 99.987% of their customers will never find out that their “milspec” part, isn’t. I’ve mic’d every one that I’ve found to not fit, and they didn’t fall within the standards on the drawing in ways that might be explained by worn tooling.

I’ve found Wilson Combat branded ones to work consistently.

I'm not sure I care that a can like this can rotate a bit. With no threading, there's no issues with sealing or maintaining alignment on a taper.

That said, Thanks for the info on tightening up the latch. Have you identified which parts shift when you undo those screws?
GA's parts being dead-on does not surprise me in the least.

As you've said, it's a corner that is easy to cut.

Specifically, you've had luck with Wilson Combat A2 hiders?
I've had luck with the hiders on my 6920, a Remington R4, and a VG6 Epsilon.
I've heard others have success with the VG6 Gamma and the BCM Mod 0 brake, but I can't personally confirm that.

Yes, for about a year after I got my first SDk, everytime I ordered something, I added on a couple A2s. Wilsons always fit, some brands were hit or miss, some brands never fit. A few brands that I only tried one sampling of would either fit or not. For example, my one S&W A1 fits. Actual military ones always fitted. I can check a Gamma later if I remember. Edit: My Gamma is a bit too tight.

On a can like this, a few degrees of rotation is important, because...

What you have removed in play, I hope you have not gained in carbon lock potential.

The latch is simply a retainer for the gate. By pressing down on the latch it closes the gate to match the tolerances of the muzzle device.

HAH..

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I don’t have carbon lock problems with my SD-series cans, and have never applied anti-seize.

I do, with mine, using both their hammer comp (came with the can) and using a comp they no longer seem to sell; it looked like a broad copy of a KAC MAMS device; not quite, but close enough to it to make you wonder. I actually talked with Green0 about it, and the advice he gave me was to just scrub the muzzle device with a wire brush every X rounds since it seems to build up on the underside areas of the device(s). I think my particular can is early enough where any of those carbon/crud mitigation features aren't really present?

It's not that big of a deal; the main reason for yanking the can off is just ease of transport to/from the range in most cases so if it needs to stay on until it cools off more and I can get a strap wrench on it to rotate it to freedom then so be it.

It's btw NOT an issue I've had on regular A2 devices...then again if I'm being honest it's really not on an A2 device for the 150 or so rounds it takes for it to start to become a problem

When I encounter an flash hider the gate-lock doesn’t fit on, I just replace the bad part with an in-spec part…. They are $10/each to fix the problem: A2 FH

That said, OP; your technique is cool if you find yourself at the range with an out of spec FH and you don’t have a spare in your range bag/box.

That's surprisingly reasonable for a Wilson part.
Thanks for the link.

Interesting. My most heavily used Gate Lok can is a M4SDk that doesn’t have the holes in the support ring. Only “carbon lock” problem I have had is that it won’t come off while hot. Not a real problem, because removing a can that’s too hot to touch is silly. If I shoot it a lot in a day, it requires elbow grease to remove after cooling, but no tools.

I took a look at the can last night and it does in fact actually have all the little holes in the first area where the muzzle device would sit...

But I guess I should be more specific in that this buildup seems to only happen on comps, at least for me - not on flash hiders. The flash hider I have doesn't seem to get buildup on it beyond the usual soot. The hammer comp and M4SD comp on the other hand collect bullet jacket/brass/copper/whatever primarily on the bottom of the device; stuff that I suspect was in vapor form and then congealed on the bottom as it cooled. Getting the can off when it's built up can be a real pain in the ass and if you're not careful/if you didn't torque and use some kind of thread locker on your comp, I can easily see the muzzle device coming loose as you try to twist the can off over the buildup. Twisting the can through the gunk seems to be the easiest/best way of cutting through it. I guess you could break out a block of wood and a hammer and punch it off...

So you did, or did not know you could adjust the latch?

TOMCAT ERROR?

I use my Griffin 30-SD on my Smith Vortex flash hiders and brakes…. I just milled a flat on the bottom of the muzzle device and my gate-lok suppressors now work on all my Vortex FH’s. My M14’s are now suppressed ;-)