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[#1]
You might try posting this question in one of these sub forums.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Refinishing/19/ https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Optics-Mounts-and-Sights/18/ |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. ________________________________ TOGC,IADC |
[#2]
Is it aluminum or steel?
Birchwood Casey aluminum black for aluminum, super blue for steel. |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#3]
Originally Posted By bfoosh06: You might try posting this question in one of these sub forums. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Refinishing/19/ https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Optics-Mounts-and-Sights/18/ View Quote Will give it a try. Thank you |
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[#4]
I'll warn you that using cold blue, say on a Q-tip, will probably end up with a different colored streak of blue over the scratch.
If it were me, I would take my time and apply just enough cold blue to fill the scratch with a toothpick. That will help ensure you won't have a big streak of darker blue that is uglier than the original scratch. |
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http://www.guntechtips.com
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[#5]
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[#6]
Originally Posted By : I'll warn you that using cold blue, say on a Q-tip, will probably end up with a different colored streak of blue over the scratch. If it were me, I would take my time and apply just enough cold blue to fill the scratch with a toothpick. That will help ensure you won't have a big streak of darker blue that is uglier than the original scratch. View Quote Yes, that's what I had in mind as well. Thank you |
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[#7]
Originally Posted By irafikov: It looks like steel View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By irafikov: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Is it aluminum or steel? Birchwood Casey aluminum black for aluminum, super blue for steel. It looks like steel Use a magnet and make sure. |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
[#8]
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[#9]
Originally Posted By Millennial: Aluminum Black works on both aluminum and steel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Millennial: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Is it aluminum or steel? Birchwood Casey aluminum black for aluminum, super blue for steel. Aluminum Black works on both aluminum and steel. I've had zero luck with it. |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#10]
I wouldn’t worry about it personally. Don’t take this the wrong way but with all the rough machine marks on the mount and the rifle it really isn’t that noticeable. It kind of gives it character.
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[#11]
Check if steel with a magnet. Brownells Oxpho Blue works well.
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[#12]
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#13]
I use black oxide for steel parts on my milsurp guns if I need to get closer to a black finish. For me, most of the cold blue treatments get me to dark blue.
https://caswellplating.com/black-oxide-gel-kit.html Also available on Amazon. |
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[#14]
Rattle can goes psshhhhht
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[Last Edit: SecondAmend]
[#15]
The late George Carlin used to discuss the downside of owning a suede leather jacket. On a chilly day, ones nose will inevitably develop a run and the instinctive reflex is to wipe ones nose with the jacket sleeve. Even after drying and attempts at cleaning, there will be a dark stain spot on the sleeve, telling any observer what has happened. The only recourse is to wipe snot on the whole jacket.
ETA: So as posted above, a complete (rattle can?) refinish of the unit is probably the best tactic. MHO, YMMV, etc. |
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[#16]
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I am not smart enough to know the answer. I am smart enough to know the question.
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[#17]
Originally Posted By Johhnyrotten: Are you degreasing before application? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Johhnyrotten: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Another that I had zero luck with. Are you degreasing before application? Negative. Followed instructions. Results looked great for about 72 hrs then the patina set in eventually turning to rust. |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#18]
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[#19]
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it. That is a battle weapon set-up, not a fine sporting rifle. The scratch was probably factory applied and kinda adds some character.
As others said, no matter what you use to try and “touch-up” that scratch, it is still going to be noticeable. |
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I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy Glock and thy AR15, they comfort me.
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[Last Edit: Manticore_Arms]
[#20]
...
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Advanced Fighting Gear for the AR, AK, AUG, Tavor, and Scorpion EVO! www.manticorearms.com
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[#21]
Originally Posted By TGWLDR: I've had zero luck with it. View Quote That aluma black seems to do nothing unless the aluminum has no oxide layer. When I freshly machine something, and touch up, it works like a charm. If it's older, I've scrubbed with acetone, then had better results. Obviously that may be a bit harsh on certain applications. |
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[#22]
Originally Posted By CKxx: That aluma black seems to do nothing unless the aluminum has no oxide layer. When I freshly machine something, and touch up, it works like a charm. If it's older, I've scrubbed with acetone, then had better results. Obviously that may be a bit harsh on certain applications. View Quote Good to know, Thank You |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. ________________________________ TOGC,IADC |
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