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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:01:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Which can? Some are worse than others.
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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:02:44 PM EDT
[#2]
how many rounds you talking?
i dont have any experience with anything but aac 18t and 51t mounts. they’ll do 300 easy and still be loose as a college goose. |
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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:10:19 PM EDT
[#3]
i have the pusher tool for my .22 cans but if they are bad i soak them in kroil overnight first. one om my omega 30s has a stuck asr mount i doubt ill ever get out
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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:57:02 PM EDT
[#4]
Need more info.
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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:58:59 PM EDT
[#5]
It depends?
My Optimus is the only serviceable centerfire can I have and that always comes apart easily. |
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Posted: 3/26/2019 10:59:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Rugged Obsidian 45.
Maybe 300 rounds through it today, but I've probably put 1000 rounds through it without a thorough cleaning. |
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Posted: 3/26/2019 11:02:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
How the hell do you guys take your cans apart after a range session? |
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Posted: 3/26/2019 11:06:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It depends? My Optimus is the only serviceable centerfire can I have and that always comes apart easily. |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 12:06:32 AM EDT
[#9]
Which interface won't come apart? Front cap? Booster retainer? Front module from main body? Were you shooting rimfire or cast lead through it?
ETA: bored oak blocks with rosin in a vice and a strap wrench if the pieces are cylindrical with no wrench flats or spanner notches. Good penetrant (liquid wrench, Kroil, PB blaster, 50/50 ATF/acetone) and coolant on inner parts, heat on exterior parts (heat gun or rose bud nozzle on torch). |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 1:26:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Yeah, Kroil melts carbon like buttah. Great on bolts, too.
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Posted: 3/27/2019 3:57:36 AM EDT
[#11]
I've gotten the forward module on my Obsidian stuck pretty good a few times, I've found that two strap wrenches is the best way to break it apart, I brace one between my knees so I can really crank on the other one. Haven't had the problem since I started putting a little anti seize on the front module threads after I take it apart.
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Posted: 3/27/2019 7:21:12 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've gotten the forward module on my Obsidian stuck pretty good a few times, I've found that two strap wrenches is the best way to break it apart, I brace one between my knees so I can really crank on the other one. Haven't had the problem since I started putting a little anti seize on the front module threads after I take it apart. |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 7:28:40 AM EDT
[#13]
FYI I was shooting Speer Lawman TMJ, I'm buying one of these tools to assist with the end caps and the mounts.
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Posted: 3/27/2019 8:18:17 AM EDT
[#14]
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench
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Posted: 3/27/2019 8:21:43 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:10:51 AM EDT
[#16]
I doubt it's carbon locked, just tight AF. I learned my lesson there too. Put some grease on those threads and don't tighten it so hard. The piston retainer is the only one I will sometimes need a vise to remove.
I also learned that if I shoot the can wet, flush with running water, and repeat, the can gets pretty clean. As for the 3D printed tools, who would pay $50, when you could get the Rugged tool for $20? I 3D printed my Obsidian tool, back before they came out with one. Did it as a thin puck with the front cap geometry on one side and the piston retainer geometry on the opposite side. Not sure why Rugged didn't do it like that, who wants to use a piston? |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:22:33 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:34:28 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench Quote HistoryQuoted:
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench Quoted: You design and print one. 
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:55:01 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure why Rugged didn't do it like that, who wants to use a piston? |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 10:04:43 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You typically always have a piston. You don't typically always have a tool. Using the tool to remove the piston, so you can then use the piston to remove the end cap is bit of a pain. lol |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:56:26 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
How the hell do you guys take your cans apart after a range session? I use an automotive product called Seafoam. I think its suppose to be used to clean engine injectors but it works pretty good on carbon. Sometimes I mix it about 50/50 with Hoppe's No.9. I let it soak for a day or two and shake it up every now and then. Cork the ends of the suppressor and fill it up about 3/4 ths. That way I can hear it as it flows from one end to other while you rotate it back and forth. I think after awhile you can tell the difference the cleaner it gets YMMV. Also, I use anti-seize to keep the ends from locking up and I also coat the baffles with food grade silicone oil which will smoke some but when you go to clean the baffles all you have to do is wipe them clean with a paper towel. This is especially helpful on .22 cans. |
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Posted: 3/28/2019 3:12:15 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wish mine did. Fortunately the baffle pusher from my alpha works with it in the mid config. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It depends? My Optimus is the only serviceable centerfire can I have and that always comes apart easily. I also use a copper antiseize where the top baffle sits on that little ledge and on all the threads. It's not like the baffles always just slide out but a few taps with a delrin dowel is usually all it takes |
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Posted: 3/28/2019 7:10:56 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
50$ seems a bit outrageous for some shitty 3d printed plastic wrench |
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Posted: 3/28/2019 8:53:09 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree. The resolution looks awful. I'll make my own. |
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Posted: 3/28/2019 11:27:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Problem there is somebody will make a bunch and sell them, capitalizing on someone else's modeling time.
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Posted: 3/29/2019 11:44:27 PM EDT
[#26]
The strap wrenches worked just fine for separating the tubes, I didn't soak it in anything but will put anti seize on the threads next time.
As for the tool, I ordered one on Wednesday and it came today. I don't have a 3D printer, and I'm not going to pay someone to steal someone else's work. It works great, seems strong enough and if it ever breaks they'll send me another one for free no questions asked. |
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Posted: 3/30/2019 11:26:24 AM EDT
[#27]
Pretty sure these will work for printing the piston pattern:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/3D-Printed-SilencerCo-Octane-Endcap-tools--DEMO-VID/20-474740/ I've got the lanyard one printing @ 20% infill just to see if it fits (scaled 2540% percent in Cura to print in metric) Edit: Piston side fits the end cap just fine! |
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