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Posted: 7/30/2025 8:59:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PursuitSS][Edited]
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Do you put a finish coat on the surfaces that are milled/drilled on a 80% receiver? If so, what would be a good coating? If coating, what should the allowable tolerance be for the hole/pocket? Thank you! |
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i've been slowly learning to appreciate Alumahyde from Brownells.. it takes some practice, but my latest lower came out pretty well IMO Attached File Yes i test fit then spray everything. I do make sure nothing is tight tho as it will take a couple of thousandths. Esp. The pocket width. Pin holes go from loose to tight which is a good thing. Same with selector but i have had to chase the takedown pins in some cases. Above was a shiny unfinished cerro forged lower. |
| This is gonna be controversial. Leave the inside uncoated. Do what you like with the outside. Take receiver and run through your dishwasher just like dishes with the usual detergent. The bare aluminum takes on a light tan patina and this is a durable protective oxide layer. It does a better job (resisting carbon deposits) than any coatings I've sprayed on the inside. |
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Originally Posted By porktyme: This is gonna be controversial. Leave the inside uncoated. Do what you like with the outside. Take receiver and run through your dishwasher just like dishes with the usual detergent. The bare aluminum takes on a light tan patina and this is a durable protective oxide layer. It does a better job (resisting carbon deposits) than any coatings I've sprayed on the inside. I guess it would be down to what's in your normal dishwasher detergent, and what reaction it will have with bare or lightly oxidized aluminum. I would have assumed most would just eat the oxidation layer then start on the aluminum, but I don't know what different chemicals will do with heat and water added. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Great..... the Mrs is going to be all over that.. first its guns in the oven either baking on alumahyde or annealing printed polymers etc.. now its guns in the dishwasher.. its going to make my whole "guns in the fridge" initiative look like its crossed the line. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: Great..... the Mrs is going to be all over that.. first its guns in the oven either baking on alumahyde or annealing printed polymers etc.. now its guns in the dishwasher.. its going to make my whole "guns in the fridge" initiative look like its crossed the line. You can strip years of gunk off a stock and steam out small dents in a dishwasher. |
I sell firearms produced by the finest child labor in the world, be it Filipino, Muslim, Mormon, Arizonan, or Texan.
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: i've been slowly learning to appreciate Alumahyde from Brownells.. it takes some practice, but my latest lower came out pretty well IMO https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000005631_jpg-3589261.JPG Yes i test fit then spray everything. I do make sure nothing is tight tho as it will take a couple of thousandths. Esp. The pocket width. Pin holes go from loose to tight which is a good thing. Same with selector but i have had to chase the takedown pins in some cases. Above was a shiny unfinished cerro forged lower. That came out nice. Very nice. I put a can of Alumahide in a paint shaker for a long time and still got some chunks on my lower. |
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Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: The alloy makes a big difference . . . 7075 is general not used in boats. Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Originally Posted By MaxSpeed74: Bare aluminum welded boats rely on aluminum oxide, and sit in the water all day... The alloy makes a big difference . . . 7075 is general not used in boats. |
"Major, with the weapon shops out of the way we can introduce steadying laws that could not be flouted." -A.E. Van Vogt 1951
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Originally Posted By MaxSpeed74: 6061 is used in boats. Was not the change from 6061 to 7075 made early on to INCREASE corrosion resistance. 6061 is also used for some 80% receivers because it is easier to machine, Just a quick internet search revealed 6061 T6 has better corrosion resistance than 7075 T6 in a wet marine type environment. And here is an old thread that addresses the idea that there was a change in material. Long read. https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/M16s-with-6061-receivers-An-Argument-Against-/118-757570/ |
Another vote for Moly Resin. I've been using it since the AK kit building started back in the 90's. Painted more than a dozen AK's and even a couple AR's with it. Holds up great. I prefected my own system of how to spray it. If you go that route send me a message and I'll tell you my method. One note, if you like that worn battle field look Moly Resin isn't a good option. It's almost scratch proof. Moly Resin on this lower 20+ years ago. Back in about 1990s Bushmaster lowers were bad about having the purple hue so I sprayed it. Back then purple wasn't in vogue like it is today. Good luck. IMG_1689 by Jack Hixson, on Flickr
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