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Posted: 9/4/2026 12:18:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lazyengineer][Edited]
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So I have a 550 and it's a pretty good machine. Helping my friend set up his 650 and I am very impressed. What a smooth machine. Priming is so much better than anything I've ever run. But wow, what a learning curve. Not my recommended choice for a new reloader just learning. Even with my help, we had powder all over the place! Didn't quite account for the extra cycles it takes to get the primers into rotation at first! In any event, I definately would take a 650 over a 550, all day long! |
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My only experience with a 650 was troubleshooting his primer system. I used a 550 and a SDB back then. His 650 was obviously a totally different primer system, and I don’t recall what the fix was but it took a couple hours and it was working 100%. Pretty unique system. Now I’m on a 750 and it’s nice. |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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A 550 is really a turret press, a 650/750 is a progressive press, and those two are different. If you focus on each station with a single piece for just a few cycles until everything is adjusted, you will get the feel and rhythm of the operations before introducing a full load of continuous flow. Going slow and talking out loud about a single piece of brass going to each operation before you go full flow, it won't take long before you have the sound and feel of the machine and the speed will build. Keep the first sessions short to prevent fatigue. Take special care during any stoppages to insure you don't double charge or squib any loads. Be patient and you will have this going in short order. |
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It’s interesting Dillon moved away from the rotary primer system. My only experience was helping that friend get his up. Must’ve been 1995, they were pretty new. He only reloaded on a single stage, found a lightly used 650 from a guy who said it never worked right and bought it. So by the time I start working on it two other guys had their mitts in it. Fortunately it had the manual, we couldn’t log onto ARFCOM and get help. I read through the whole part on priming, twice. Best idea was to take it apart, clean and reassemble per the manual.. We had to do some adjustments and cursing, but once it was dialed it was flawless. I do wonder why they adopted it, then abandoned it. I shot uspsa with that guy, and he said keep it clean and it just works. |
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Unfortunately....not every one is a conscientious reloader. Too many ham fisted types. Too many who fail to read and follow instructions. Some people on internet bulletin boards would like to have the world believe that their equipment is flawed. When for the most part the issue is the guy they see in the mirror every morning. SAD BUT TRUE. Take the person that bought a used Dillon powder measure recently and picked out the WRONG large powder charge bar. HE MADE THE MISTAKE not the seller nor Dillon. Yet some of you chirped in Dillon will give him $55 charge bar for free. Good Luck with that. The operations of any reloading press requires a person be familiar with the processes of each station. Plus to be familiar with reloading in general. |
jme and I am a NRA Endowment Member
Don't be too timid and squeamish about your actions. All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.
R W Emerson
Don't be too timid and squeamish about your actions. All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.
R W Emerson
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Is it easier to learn "reloading" on a single stage or turret without having to learn the quirks of a progressive machine at the same time, probably, but I also don't think it is that hard either. Just focus on tweaking one station at a time and its no big deal. I've got plenty of friends who needed volume for USPSA, started on a 650 or a 1050, have never owned a single stage to this day and were up and running fine in no time. For the 650 when starting, cycle the primer system six times (can be by hand or just run it up and down and inch or so at the top of the stroke where the plastic thingy cycles it). Then go to full stroke dropping a case into #1 and your first primer will show up where it is supposed to. I have a 750 too; and I consider the primer systems different obviously, but one not significantly better than the other; they both suck in different ways |
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Originally Posted By rn22723: Unfortunately....not every one is a conscientious reloader. Too many ham fisted types. Too many who fail to read and follow instructions. Some people on internet bulletin boards would like to have the world believe that their equipment is flawed. When for the most part the issue is the guy they see in the mirror every morning. SAD BUT TRUE. Take the person that bought a used Dillon powder measure recently and picked out the WRONG large powder charge bar. HE MADE THE MISTAKE not the seller nor Dillon. Yet some of you chirped in Dillon will give him $55 charge bar for free. Good Luck with that. The operations of any reloading press requires a person be familiar with the processes of each station. Plus to be familiar with reloading in general. That bar thing got sorted two days later. Seller had the right large bar in the pile of extras; we swapped it. What threw us is it was an old first-gen manual bar with no drive notch most people have never seen one, so “you picked the wrong part” is easy to say after the fact. I didn’t ask Dillon for a free bar. If a maker will goodwill a part, asking isn’t a crime. Some will, some won’t. Separate issue after I left: his 650 primer system started hanging, then the plastic indexer went. He’s ordering wear parts from Dillon. Forcing a progressive when it binds will do that. I still wouldn’t start someone on a 650, but will say I really really like it! Of everything related to progressive reloading, the priming is the biggest headache. Hornady is mediocre at it, and Dillon 550 system is better, but only somewhat. The 650 was just a dream in comparison. |
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I had two 650's and sold them and got an 1100 and a 550's and ended up with a SBD and a second 550 as well. I'm still happy with that choice, the 550 is my favorite Dillon and the versatility and ease of use just works for me. My 650's always ran pretty good, and the primer feed worked good for me. A tricks to feed primers only when ready is to put a thin flat piece of steel under the primer ratchet arm and it will just skip primers until your ready for more. |
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I learned reloading on a 550, transitioned to a 650 when I wanted a casefeeder for my rifle calibers and then got a deal on a 750 at Shot Show in early 2020. I've taught a few people how to reload and I have a simple temporary mod that turns either a 650 or 750 into a non auto indexing press like the 550. The 'mod' is a simple removal of the Indexing Pawl p/n 13667 that rotates the shellplate to auto index it. (it looks like a flat hammer in profile and it's located under the shellplate). The indexing pawl is sitting on a spring and all you need to do is simply lift it out and that temporarily disables auto indexing. To rotate the shellplate, one need only to push on one of the shell casings until the shellplate snaps into the next position. As you need to remove the shellplate to change calibers anyway, getting at the indexing pawl is a snap. I've found that my students get the hang of the press after about 200 - 300 rds so then all you need to do is reinsert the indexing pawl and you're back to auto indexing. Simple as that. |
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I recommend a 750 over a 650 specifically because of the priming system. The 750’s system is pretty much the same as the 550’s, with no extra cycles to get primers ready for the first case. I also agree that a progressive press is not ideal for learning reloading, plus it’s kinda hard to do some things on a progressive, like use a bullet puller to disassemble rounds, or to assemble ladder test rounds. I think every handloader should have a single-stage press, even if it’s just for those oddball tasks. |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter: I recommend a 750 over a 650 specifically because of the priming system. The 750’s system is pretty much the same as the 550’s, with no extra cycles to get primers ready for the first case. I also agree that a progressive press is not ideal for learning reloading, plus it’s kinda hard to do some things on a progressive, like use a bullet puller to disassemble rounds, or to assemble ladder test rounds. I think every handloader should have a single-stage press, even if it’s just for those oddball tasks. I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. Only one I hate worse is Hornady's. The 650 is a sweetheart. |
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I started on a 650. I've screwed up and dropped powder in an unprimed case. I'm pretty sure it's an infrequent but common mistake. It costs a few minutes and you feel like a dummy. It's painful enough you aren't likely to repeat it much. I would do that then lose tons of hours on a single stage. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. Only one I hate worse is Hornady's. The 650 is a sweetheart. My 750 did that when I first set it up. The fail safe return was binding, fixed that and less primer tosses, still a few. I think Dryflash recommended this, a light polish to the primer bar and track, then wax it all. No more primer toss. Your best 550 is likely wear polished. Maybe just a clean and wax? |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Originally Posted By GHPorter: I recommend a 750 over a 650 specifically because of the priming system. I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. I also greatly prefer the 650 priming system. The 750 was a huge step backward, IMO. I had an SDB and currently own both a 550 and a 650. The primer mechanism on the 550 likes to hang up on the frame, all of the time. The SDB would randomly flip primers or hang up. The 650 priming system just works. Having to advance it 6 extra clicks at the beginning of a loading session is really no big deal. |
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I presently have 2 550's and 8 SDB's. All of the primer systems work perfectly. Something is out of adjustment if it doesn't. Get out the Dillon manual and read the priming trouble shooting section. There are a couple of adjustments that have to be right to work trouble free. Also I use my wax trick on the primer parts. If you want to lube something and can't use oil, paste wax is what I use. There are a couple places you can use grease, I use a small amount of Cherry bomb. And of course if you spill powder on the shellplate, the powder will work down and jam the priming assembly. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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The last time I had primer issues on the 650, it seemed like the “primer carousel” wasn’t rotating far enough. I tried a few different things, but ultimately I swapped out the “primer indexing arm”, part #6: Attached File That little “ nubbin’ “ on the bottom acts like a pawl and engages the primer holes in the “carousel” to advance it counter clockwise. With the new “primer” indexing arm” installed it ran 100%. But for the life of me, looking at the new one and old one side by side, I could NOT tell what was wrong with the old one. If you ever have to swap one out, just watch the detent ball , #14, it wall fall out or drop out and go rolling across the floor. I think it ends up in the same place as the missing sock from the clothes dryer. Oh…yeah… and then there is the primer ski jump for the “extra” primers. I just wrap the bottom of it with blue painters tape to act like a guard rail. EDIT: I still used or borrowed the trick from when I had a 550. The skinny plastic rod, follower rod, that stands on top of a stack of primers inside the tube, yeah, I put a once fired .45ACP case on top of that follower rod just for some extra weight. Also, I think if you are patient and somewhat mechanically inclined, you can make your first press a 650. Or a 750. |
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Originally Posted By WeimaranerDad: The last time I had primer issues on the 650, it seemed like the “primer carousel” wasn’t rotating far enough. I tried a few different things, but ultimately I swapped out the “primer indexing arm”, part #6: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/IMG_8645_jpeg-3823308.JPG In my significant experience with the 650, it is the spring #11 in the diagram that is good for about 10-15k or so and then it stops indexing reliably... replace it and good to go. I buy them 5 at a time off the dillon website now. |
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Originally Posted By DVCNick: In my significant experience with the 650, it is the spring #11 in the diagram that is good for about 10-15k or so and then it stops indexing reliably... replace it and good to go. I buy them 5 at a time off the dillon website now. Usually if I am having trouble, I just taking the priming system off the press, clean it up, and replace any springs that don't seem to be functioning. I feel like I have rarely replaced that #11 spring, but I've lost that #10 spring 2 or 3 times, and I have a bunch of spares so it's no big deal. |
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Originally Posted By DVCNick: In my significant experience with the 650, it is the spring #11 in the diagram that is good for about 10-15k or so and then it stops indexing reliably... replace it and good to go. I buy them 5 at a time off the dillon website now. I have two 650’s. I might still have the original invoice or receipt when I bought my second 650. It was right when Dillon announced the 750. That’s when I put in an order through my gun club for the second 650. So with having two 650’s now, if I am really desperate for a spare part, I can cannibalize it off the other priming system sitting unused. Or since I also have an SL900, there is some parts commonality going on too, if I get really really desperate. But I also have those clear Plano tackle boxes filled with spare parts too. |
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Originally Posted By Colt653: I Love my XL650 My 550 collected dust til i sold it i like the 650 primer system better than the 550 In a way, the 550 priming system “poops where it eats”. When I had a 550, I had to keep it clean. Otherwise all the old primer residue, and fired primer bits and whatever debris still left in the cases could “gum up the works” with the primer feed mechanism. So that’s one of the reasons I hurriedly ordered that second 650once I heard the 750 announcement. Which reminds me…I have seen two or three used 650’s for sale at the LGS lately: Attached File |
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I had consistent failures with the 550 priming system. The bar would stick in the pickup position, then snap forward. Did lots of clean & polishes. Dillon sent several primer arms of various constructions; this was over decades, back when Dillon even paid shipping for their free parts (Now, it's $10 minimum shipping for a single free pin). Once I added one of the ball bearing primer plates sold online, I have used tens of thousands of primers with no problem. At an NRA Annual, I asked a Dillon rep why they didn't have those bearings, and was told, "It's perfect the way it is; why would we change it." Kind of surprising, since Dillon Customer Service people have always been and still are first rate. Usually have to go to the Glock booth to get that attitude. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. Only one I hate worse is Hornady's. The 650 is a sweetheart. That’s weird. The system on my 750, without me doing any tweaking, straight from the factory, “just works”. It drops one primer into the slide - unless there’s already one there - with each cycle of the press, and the primer can only go into a case. I don’t see any way for a primer to get launched, or even do much more than get un-centered on the punch. My Hornady LnL AP’s priming system is very similar, though it depends on that goofy punch that is screwed into the sub-plate, and which hopefully hasn’t dug a hole in the press casting. I glued a stainless washer on the casting where the punch hits it to prevent it from making a crater. It’s not as smooth as my 750, but it feeds and doesn’t give me any real issues other than making sure primers get fully seated. |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter: That’s weird. The system on my 750, without me doing any tweaking, straight from the factory, “just works”. It drops one primer into the slide - unless there’s already one there - with each cycle of the press, and the primer can only go into a case. I don’t see any way for a primer to get launched, or even do much more than get un-centered on the punch. My Hornady LnL AP’s priming system is very similar, though it depends on that goofy punch that is screwed into the sub-plate, and which hopefully hasn’t dug a hole in the press casting. I glued a stainless washer on the casting where the punch hits it to prevent it from making a crater. It’s not as smooth as my 750, but it feeds and doesn’t give me any real issues other than making sure primers get fully seated. Originally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm less Dillon experienced - but I sure don't. My 550 randomly throws a primer across the table every 87.2 primers. I hate the goofy exposed hope-it-makes-it system. Only one I hate worse is Hornady's. The 650 is a sweetheart. That’s weird. The system on my 750, without me doing any tweaking, straight from the factory, “just works”. It drops one primer into the slide - unless there’s already one there - with each cycle of the press, and the primer can only go into a case. I don’t see any way for a primer to get launched, or even do much more than get un-centered on the punch. My Hornady LnL AP’s priming system is very similar, though it depends on that goofy punch that is screwed into the sub-plate, and which hopefully hasn’t dug a hole in the press casting. I glued a stainless washer on the casting where the punch hits it to prevent it from making a crater. It’s not as smooth as my 750, but it feeds and doesn’t give me any real issues other than making sure primers get fully seated. Imperfect smoothness of the systems cycling causes hangups with rapid acceleration and decelarions that will launch the primer out of the weakly secured and long travel path the 550/750 uses. Those hangups come from powder and metal shavings that high rate usage in non-new systems inevitably have. As we see in this thread, it's a common problem many people have. I tend to run high volume batches of thousands at a time, and so stuff builds up, and don't do a tear down and clean up of every surface. So I get metal shavings and powder in stuff. It's inevitable for many people, and in that usage, primers get flung. Some have practices and aspects that apparently dont have this. But for me, and my usage, 650 is looking very attractive. As to Hornady, its priming system is even more sensitive and less resilient to such. Hornady requires a can of canned air and a blow out of the primer channel every hundred rounds or so, or problems problems. At least, that's my experience - and apparently I'm not alone. |
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Originally Posted By WeimaranerDad: I have two 650's. I might still have the original invoice or receipt when I bought my second 650. It was right when Dillon announced the 750. That's when I put in an order through my gun club for the second 650. So with having two 650's now, if I am really desperate for a spare part, I can cannibalize it off the other priming system sitting unused. I'll also say that I like my 650 over my friends with 1050's since I'm a scavenger. Meaning that I think the 1050 is better if you consistent brass. I pick up range brass all the time. Some brass has loose primer pockets, with the 650, since the priming is done when pushing the handle forward, I can feel is something is off. With the 1050, it is doing everything at the same time like sizing which takes considerable force and you can't feel if have some hogged out primer pocket. |
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Issues I've had with the 750 primer system: -Getting it to reliably drop a primer into the cup on the runner thing at full stroke is the biggest issue: I had to adjust the travel repeatedly to get it "right", and it has never been perfect; I have probably one out of 100 that miss the cup, fall into the running mechanism and cause problems until I can fish it out of there. -As mentioned above, as the running bar gets dirty, it binds and causes inconsistent or incomplete travel; have to take it all the way apart to clean throughly. I've tried putting some silicone spray on the bar to keep it slick, but this just made it gunk up faster. -A lot of times it just simply won't release the last primer in the stack; I've got to feed more primers or a spent primer on top of it it get it out. -Carbon gunk getting into the spring loaded sleeve part of the cup that holds the primer, causing it to bind as well; have to take it apart to clean periodically. I've only broken the spring on it one time so far which is surprising. On the 650, as I mentioned before, pretty much all my ills with it, I've learned over time, are fixed by cleaning it and changing the indexing spring often. If the indexing spring is fresh, it works; if not, problems. I don't like every aspect of it, but in terms of functional reliability, I think it is better than the system on the 750. |
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Originally Posted By WeimaranerDad: I have two 650’s. I might still have the original invoice or receipt when I bought my second 650. It was right when Dillon announced the 750. That’s when I put in an order through my gun club for the second 650. So with having two 650’s now, if I am really desperate for a spare part, I can cannibalize it off the other priming system sitting unused. Or since I also have an SL900, there is some parts commonality going on too, if I get really really desperate. But I also have those clear Plano tackle boxes filled with spare parts too. I always thought about a 650 but I have enough 550 tool heads and conversion kits that I’d stick with 550’s now. A second 550 to leave set up with small primers to not have to switch over would make me happy. That said I am practiced enough enough at the primer size changeover that it’s a five minute job at most. |
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Originally Posted By ScottyPotty: I had two 650's and sold them and got an 1100 and a 550's and ended up with a SBD and a second 550 as well. I'm still happy with that choice, the 550 is my favorite Dillon and the versatility and ease of use just works for me. My 650's always ran pretty good, and the primer feed worked good for me. A tricks to feed primers only when ready is to put a thin flat piece of steel under the primer ratchet arm and it will just skip primers until your ready for more.
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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As I said in my post above, I started with a 550, switched to a 650 when I wanted a casefeeder and then got a 750 on a deal a Shot Show in 2020. The reason I wanted the 750 was that I felt that the 550 style primer feed was better. My reasons are this: 1) The 650's wheel full of primers is susceptible to jamming if even a small amount of powder drops into it. This happened a few times with my 650. 2) The close proximity of primers in the wheel allows a primer that is set off due to a jammed primer in the shellplate to set off the whole wheel as well as the magazine of primers launching the follower up into the ceiling. Item 2) isn't a theoretical happening. The first guy I was training on my 650 tried to force a tilted primer into the case hard and it went off; setting off the entire wheel and magazine of primers and launching the follower into the ceiling. In addition, the shellplate on the 650 can tilt up a bit when the primer is inserted into the case. This slight tilting was eliminated in the 750 as the Index Block Assy. (page 64 in the 750 manual) has a spring loaded support that limits or eliminates the shellplate tilt. Further, the Zerk fittings in the link arms allowing you to grease the upper and lower pivot points is a good maintenance improvement over the 650. |
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It was funny when the 750 came out, people were sucking up 650's just to retain the priming system so to speak. One thing about Dillon presses is you have to keep them clean!!!! I started on 450 in the 80's. Always got frustrated with the priming problems switching from small to large or vice versa. It was not till the mid 90's i got the bright idea to buy a complete priming system. Remove twos screws and conversion from small to large or vice versa was done. No more problems. Then in early 2000's the crank on 550 cracked. Dillon replaced. Then i got into a 650. Then swapped to a 750. Now to a 1100. Dillon bullet feeder added....now a sweet set up. RL1100 conversions are spendy. Only have two 9 and 45. No matter what others come up with. Understanding the loading process is key to reloading. You will always have need for a single stage press. Conversions cost way too much money to load 50 or 100 rds of XYZ. |
jme and I am a NRA Endowment Member
Don't be too timid and squeamish about your actions. All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.
R W Emerson
Don't be too timid and squeamish about your actions. All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.
R W Emerson
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Originally Posted By rn22723: Conversions cost way too much money to load 50 or 100 rds of XYZ. This non-trivial cost, as part of the total cost of ownership, is what kept me from going up the ladder with Dillon machines. I started with a 550. It is still my primary press. Tool heads for a 550 are inexpensive enough that each cartridge gets its own tool head. No case feeders or bullet feeders for me, either. If I need 1,000 rounds, it takes 2 hours for pistol and 3 hours for rifle. Long gone are the days when I want or need multiple-thousands of rounds. <-- did I ever need them? |
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Originally Posted By COSteve: Further, the Zerk fittings in the link arms allowing you to grease the upper and lower pivot points is a good maintenance improvement over the 650. Dillon has zerk fitting upgrades for both the 550 & 650 presses. My understanding is that the 550-C comes with them. I have since upgraded both my 20-year-old 650 and my 25+ year-old 550 with these. |
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: Dillon has zerk fitting upgrades for both the 550 & 650 presses. My understanding is that the 550-C comes with them. I have since upgraded both my 20-year-old 650 and my 25+ year-old 550 with these. I was thinking about machining grooves on my SDB arms and adding zerks to it and the ram pivot rod. but i think that is overkill. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By CSeaBass: I am going to buy a 550 to replace my single stage presses. I was thinking about a 419 turret but I think that is overkill for me. I am waiting until I get my new apex 10 dialed in though. Makes sense, and a solid press. I am looking at a conscious life&space shrink and consolidate and so to me, converting a 550b (rifle) and a Hornady LnL (pistol) into one 650 with conversion kits, is starting to have appeal. I'll watch the market and see. |
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Originally Posted By CSeaBass: I was thinking about machining grooves on my SDB arms and adding zerks to it and the ram pivot rod. but i think that is overkill. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By CSeaBass: I am going to buy a 550 to replace my single stage presses. I was thinking about a 419 turret but I think that is overkill for me. I am waiting until I get my new apex 10 dialed in though. I am a recent 550 convert, having loaded on an rcbs single stage for the last 8+ years. My testing at my last rifle match shows very accurate ammo can be loaded on a properly setup 550. 600yards. Loaded on 550. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Grumple: The 650 is not longer in production. It's now the 750 with an upgraded priming system and other modifications. The 750 is a phenomenal machine. However a lot of people have issues with the 750 primer system and have to dick around with it and modify it to make it work. Maybe Dillon has that sorted out by now, but it doesn't sound like it. The 650 is still available on the used market and warranty parts are still available. It is a viable choice. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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I was gifted a grody 650 for doing a big favor for a buddy. cleaned it really well, swapped the LP for SP and now load 9mm on it I also have a 550 that I upgraded from that is now used mainly for 10mm but sparsely. I like the visual appeal of the 550 primer system BUT have had a few issues with them not coming out correctly or not at all The 650 has had zero issues not induced by me for priming despite being "blind" process. Mine does not have the zerk fittings and I might upgrade one day. The 550 is a great machine to learn on but it is slower The 650 is a great machine that takes some getting used to. If I encounter an error on the 550 it's simple to reset, the 650 ca take a few minutes. To get primers in correct position for the 650 press the pawl on the priming system 6 times Love them both but if I had a choice I would take the 650 over 550 for handgun/quantity loading (I don't progressively load rifle) |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Later 650s came with grease fittings. You can buy the side links and lower handle mount/block to convert an older 650 for not much money. It really tightens up an older press. Here is that older block I mentioned: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_3535_JPG-3209002.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_3536_JPG-3209001.jpg Does Dillon still make this kit? my google-fu is weak |
PROUD AMMOSEXUAL
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
Founding father Tench Coxe
“Their swords, and every other terrible implement of the soldier, are the birthright of an American."
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